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First ascent

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There have been notable disputes over claims of a first ascent (or first free ascent), for various reasons (disputes over the style employed, issues with verifiability, accusations of bad faith and fraud), and the most notable are where a new grade milestone and/or major advancement in difficulty is
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of first free ascent in traditional climbing (and an FFA that had been headpointed would be asterisked as such), leading traditional climbers eventually followed the redpointing practices of sport climbers (i.e. practicing the route over-and-over in a safe way), and dispensed with the stigma
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called it "the greatest climbing feat of all time". Inconsistencies in Maestri's account, and the lack of equipment on the route, led most to doubt his claim. Maestri further inflamed the controversy by returning in 1970 and drilling 400 bolts onto his new
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First alpine-style (or unsupported) ascent. In 2008, the charter of the prestigious Piolet d'Or prize was amended to focus on small teams with no support making fast, but riskier, ascents on routes that had previously been done by expeditions (called
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As mountaineering developed in the 20th century, the attainment of a summit by almost any means was replaced by ascents that reflected the style used and the conditions faced. In 2008, the most prestigious annual prize in mountaineering, the
1322:, his claim provoked a significant backlash from parts of the climbing community and even accusations that he never completed an FFA (the person who belayed him could not be identified to help verification). The route was repeated in 2011 by 1454: 840:
In rock climbing, the manner in which the first free ascent was achieved became important to chronicle by climbing journals and magazines. The key differentiators were the style on which the route was free climbed (e.g.
2311: 903:(as a counterpoint to a "redpoint"), to describe climbing a pre-bolted sport climbing route, but only using "traditional protection" (i.e. protection that is not permanently fixed via pre-placed bolts or pitons). 1271: (5.14d). Rouhling faced an unprecedented level of personal vilification from parts of the climbing community on whether he had actually climbed the route, as all other attempts had failed. In 2020, 1933: 1046:
is practiced by a smaller community of climbers and is a controversial area given the risks undertaken and whether such risks should be recorded and thus implicitly endorsed. Free solo climbing
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ascent, performed by a single climber. The first solo ascents of the alpine north faces, including the first solo winter ascents, were coveted (the winter solo "Trilogy" was completed by
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As all the key tops were summited, the manner in which each top was reached became important, particularly the ability to complete the ascent without artificial aid, which is called
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First redpoint ascent (sport climbing only). In the 1980s, climbers wanted to ascend routes that had no opportunities for traditional climbing protection, and they had to be
802:. Himalayan solo ascents are also coveted, although problems around verification are more frequent due to the more remote nature of the routes, with notable disputes such as 868:
First free ascent (traditional climbing only). Pre-1980s, the FFAs were by traditional climbing techniques. A distinction was recorded if a climber practiced the moves on a
3860: 2303: 1008:, means it was done at the very first attempt, and without prior information (or beta). Climbing journals chronicle the progression of grade milestones of onsights both 1695: 1027:, means it was done at the first attempt, but with prior information (or beta). Climbing journals chronicle the progression of grade milestones for flashed routes by 1843: 1032: 1028: 1013: 1009: 1290: 638:
is a more controversial aspect, given the concerns about advocating such a dangerous form of climbing. With the rise in female participation in climbing, the
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First repeat ascent (traditional or sport climbing). The grading of a route can be complicated as the person making the FFA had no prior information or
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climbers. With the availability of route beta online (e.g. videos of prior ascents), the distinction between onsight and flash ascents has diminished.
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As the sport of climbing developed, additional types of ascent became notable and chronicled in guidebooks and journals. In mountaineering, and
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for confirmation of a grade, particularly when a new grade milestone is proposed. For the highest grades, the first repeat can take years (e.g.
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in the event of a fall could be used as long as they did not aid progression). Completing the FFA of a climbing route is often called
535: 70: 1895: 2901: 2896: 1362: 1352: 121: 1794:"How the World's Boldest Climbing Area Got that Way: How headpointing became a legitimate, go-to tactic on Peak District gritstone" 1614: 1542: 2473: 1175: 755:, was only summited in winter in 2021 (66 years after its first ascent) and considered a "holy grail" of mountaineering prizes. 1685: 1171: 2248: 1659: 662:
and Martin Ploug (pictured) nearing the summit of the unclimbed peak, Ren Zhong Feng (5800m), in China via their new route
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A month later, Roxanna Brock teamed up with Bobbi Bensman to do the first female free ascent (FFFA) of the route in a day.
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First winter ascent. The winter climbing season is between December 21 and March 20. The first winter ascents of the
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teams using no form of aid or support, rather than on large expedition-style teams using "siege" techniques.
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First female free ascent (abbreviated FFFA). Important female climbers emerged in the 1980s including
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with protection (but not aid), which was called sport climbing. Sport climbing has since set all new
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closed the gap to the highest sport climbing grades achieved by men to within one/two notches, while
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summited, but that Egger who had the camera, was swept to his death by an avalanche on the descent.
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First ascent of Everest: Arguably the most famous case of an unverified first ascent is whether
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First greenpoint ascent (traditional climbing only). In the 2010s, traditional climbers used
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The Piolets d'Or (Golden Ice Axes) were long considered to be the 'Oscars of Mountaineering'
1215:, to claim the second ascent. In 2012, yet more controversy followed when American climbers 3855: 3840: 3830: 3081: 3047: 2827: 2601: 2579: 2572: 2560: 2304:"Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez" 1098: 842: 205: 183: 176: 164: 8: 3730: 3548: 3527: 3430: 3372: 3367: 3326: 3301: 3224: 3130: 3052: 2964: 2705: 2482: 2342: 2276: 2243: 2207: 2028: 1961: 1798: 1690: 1609: 1570: 1524: 1459: 1310: 1248: 927: 877: 608: 441: 419: 3870: 3452: 3420: 3091: 3074: 2930: 2908: 2874: 2623: 2618: 2613: 2099: 1604: 1416: 850: 565: 501: 446: 227: 222: 217: 104: 1272: 1127:, announced by Hill to the world's climbing media by: "It goes, boys". By the 2000s, 739:
were a coveted prize, particularly the "Trilogy" of the three hardest, the Eiger, the
4006: 3960: 3943: 3885: 3680: 3608: 3583: 3569: 3562: 3377: 3279: 3179: 2959: 2630: 2555: 2497: 2443: 1649: 1533: 1528: 1421: 1128: 1124: 1081: 659: 474: 464: 234: 159: 59: 55: 34: 2463: 3820: 3755: 3735: 3710: 3695: 3462: 3440: 3316: 3059: 2695: 2435: 1136: 1120: 1024: 881: 795: 748: 744: 707: 589: 577: 506: 486: 282: 272: 126: 1455:"Climbers Make History Making First Winter Ascent of Pakistan's 'Killer Mountain'" 782: 3948: 3815: 3760: 3715: 3690: 3660: 3445: 3415: 3338: 3333: 3192: 3140: 3064: 3025: 2998: 2683: 2656: 2477: 2238: 1643: 967: 919: 880:" as the definition of an FFA, such a distinction was dropped. FFAs that set new 858: 828: 623: 496: 255: 686:
The most notable types of mountaineering first ascents that are chronicled are:
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The most notable types of rock climbing first ascents that are chronicled are:
846: 799: 676: 573: 549: 491: 436: 381: 341: 336: 260: 245: 200: 188: 92: 2162:"Can't Keep Her Down: A Consolidated History of Women's Climbing Achievements" 765:). Multiple Piolet d'Or winners, whose ascents embodied this style, included 4000: 3770: 3670: 3615: 3576: 3475: 3425: 3400: 3311: 3164: 3020: 2986: 2807: 2782: 2661: 2651: 2608: 2591: 2535: 2374: 1425: 1243: 1238: 1201: 791: 766: 715: 596: 414: 386: 376: 356: 212: 195: 144: 3284: 2272:"Fred Rouhling's Akira Sees First Repeats Since 1995 FA, Receives Downgrade" 803: 3890: 3785: 3665: 3601: 3480: 3042: 3030: 2991: 2976: 2787: 2712: 2700: 2550: 1492: 1207: 1132: 1057: 943: 762: 695: 680: 585: 361: 289: 277: 154: 1088:(8b+ 5.14a, 300-metres, 9 pitches), on the Grand Pfad in Bern, Switzerland 790:
First solo ascent. The most dangerous form of alpine-style ascent is the
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First free solo ascent (independent of traditional or sport climbing).
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in particular. The 1950s saw the first ascents of most of the fourteen
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First onsight ascent (traditional or sport climbing). An FFA that was
982: 869: 823: 778: 774: 740: 326: 301: 171: 2056:"North America, United States, Nevada, Rainbow Wall, Various Activity" 1926:"Sonnie Trotter finds The Path 5.14 R at Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada" 3629: 3622: 3490: 3485: 3395: 3360: 3274: 3219: 3125: 3069: 3008: 2757: 2024:"Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport" 1094: 1052: 1043: 949: 873: 727: 719: 404: 331: 2370:"Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain" 1023:
First flash ascent (traditional or sport climbing). An FFA that was
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who downgraded it, and further repeats reduced its grade to circa
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in 1977–78); one of the most famous practitioners was the Italian
584:) by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of 3321: 3207: 3157: 3013: 2777: 1005: 854: 711: 351: 1223:
and Peter Ortner to make the FFA, for which all four won a 2013
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First ascent. The most notable first ascents started with the
654: 50: 1686:"Who Did It First? Style, Grades and Dispute in First Ascents" 853:), whether the free climb was done on the first attempt (e.g. 698:). In the 1930s, the focus moved to the first ascents of the 630:
is recorded, given the significantly greater difficulty. The
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Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes
568:), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a 2489: 1488:"Nepalese team makes first successful winter ascent of K2" 694:
when the main alpine peaks were summited (and often using
2203:"Patagonia's Cerro Torre Gets the Chop: Maestri Unbolted" 2128:"American Woman Reaches a New Milestone in Rock Climbing" 1728:"Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean?" 1308: (5.15c) route, when the highest grade at the time, 1261: (5.15b) route, when the highest grade at the time, 1866:"Heiko Queitsch greenpoint climbing in the Frankenjura" 1101:
and climbing journals began to chronicle milestones in
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Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
1529:"Piolets d'Or: A Short History of the Golden Ice Axe" 3913:
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
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In 2003, Spanish climber Bernabé Fernández proposed
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Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
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List of first ascents of eight-thousander mountains
1219:and Jason Kruk, removed Maestri's bolts, enabling 1143:had fully closed the gap for traditional climbing. 1109:being Lynn Hill's 1993 FFA/FFFA of the 3,000-foot 1105:. In some cases, an FFFA is also an FFA, the most 2402:"Dani Andrada does fourth ascent of Chilam Balam" 714:in particular. By the 1980s, the rock spires of 649: 3998: 2468:on Didier Berthod's failed first free ascent of 2434: 1896:"Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura" 1642:(2001). "My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Cesen". 592:support teams that laid "siege" to the climb. 1412:"A Climbing Award That May Be a Winner's Last" 876:", although with the post-1980s dominance of " 2505: 1957:"Trotter Chops Bolts, Sends Marathon Project" 1645:Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber 1241:created a major controversy when he proposed 529: 3907:International Federation of Sport Climbing 2512: 2498: 2086: 806:'s first solo ascent of the south face of 679:, amended its focus to small light-weight 536: 522: 2092: 1381:While headpointing was once considered a 1363:List of grade milestones in rock climbing 1353:List of first ascents of mountain summits 1318: (5.15a). As with Fred Rouhling on 2269: 1990:"Onsight and Flash – What Do They Mean?" 1683: 1648:. Mountaineering Books. pp. 63–74. 1563: 1523: 1485: 1452: 1076: 933: 818: 653: 2197: 2125: 1954: 1833: 1602: 1566:"Highlights from the 23rd Piolets d'Or" 1050:are chronicled, the most notable being 14: 3999: 2331: 2329: 2193: 2191: 2189: 2187: 2155: 2153: 2017: 2015: 1834:Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). 1791: 1761: 1759: 1757: 1755: 1753: 1638: 1176:Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition 911:(5.14a R, 2007), is a notable example. 2493: 2412:from the original on 10 February 2023 2382:from the original on 10 February 2023 2350:from the original on 10 February 2023 2232: 2230: 2159: 2021: 1987: 1906:from the original on 22 December 2022 1876:from the original on 22 December 2022 1829: 1827: 1825: 1823: 1821: 1738:from the original on 22 December 2022 1725: 1721: 1719: 1717: 1715: 1713: 1698:from the original on 10 February 2023 1679: 1677: 1662:from the original on 10 February 2023 1545:from the original on 19 February 2022 1500:from the original on 10 February 2023 1453:Bisharat, Andrew (27 February 2016). 1405: 1403: 1170:reached the summit of Everest on the 634:is also commonly noted, although the 3967: 2338:"Ondra Grabs Ascent of Chilam Balam" 2270:Corrigan, Keven (23 November 2020). 2236: 2172:from the original on 29 January 2022 2107:from the original on 4 December 2022 2036:from the original on 30 October 2022 2000:from the original on 28 January 2023 1969:from the original on 8 February 2023 1936:from the original on 8 February 2023 1634: 1632: 1617:from the original on 13 January 2020 1598: 1596: 1519: 1517: 1515: 1448: 1446: 1409: 826:making the first redpoint ascent of 3979: 2335: 2326: 2184: 2150: 2012: 1846:from the original on 4 January 2022 1806:from the original on 28 August 2023 1750: 1684:Sanzarro, Francis (22 March 2022). 1578:from the original on 1 January 2023 1147: 1123:), considered the biggest prize in 814: 24: 2428: 2227: 1818: 1710: 1674: 1486:Beaumont, Peter (6 January 2021). 1400: 25: 4023: 3876:South African Climbing Federation 2457: 2314:from the original on 22 June 2022 2284:from the original on 22 June 2022 2251:from the original on 22 June 2022 2239:"The Other Side of Fred Rouhling" 2160:Walsh, Megan (14 November 2017). 1629: 1593: 1564:Boermans, Menno (14 April 2015). 1512: 1443: 1341:List of first ascents in the Alps 1156: 970:. The first repeat is therefore 3978: 3966: 3955: 3954: 3942: 2848:IFSC World Championships winners 2126:Bishart, Andrew (1 March 2017). 1988:Pardy, Aaron (2 November 2022). 1955:Lambert, Erik (31 August 2007). 1836:"The evolution of free climbing" 1792:Huttom, Mike (3 November 2022). 1726:Pardy, Aaron (5 November 2022). 1231: 1180:2007 Altitude Everest expedition 580:) and climbing routes (e.g. the 49: 27:Mountaineering and climbing term 2394: 2362: 2296: 2263: 2119: 2072:from the original on 2023-02-11 2048: 1981: 1948: 1918: 1888: 1858: 1785: 1432:from the original on 2021-11-30 1386:associated with headpointing. 1375: 3846:British Mountaineering Council 1557: 1479: 1346:First ascent of the Matterhorn 650:In mountaineering and alpinism 13: 1: 2336:Fox, Amanda (13 April 2011). 2022:Osius, Alison (4 June 2022). 1393: 1060:'s first free solo ascent of 737:great north faces of the Alps 700:great north faces of the Alps 599:. In free climbing, the term 582:great north faces of the Alps 2519: 1603:Parnell, Ian (1 July 2006). 1410:Levy, Michael (2021-11-29). 1056:, the Oscar-winning film of 7: 1605:"Victors of the Unwinnable" 1334: 1279:and estimated its grade at 646:) has also become notable. 572:or the top of a particular 10: 4028: 836: (5.15d) sport climb. 3938: 3899: 3836:Appalachian Mountain Club 3806: 3799: 3643: 3593: 3512: 3505: 3388: 3267: 3178: 2938: 2929: 2922: 2820: 2745: 2674: 2639: 2543: 2534: 2527: 2093:Editorial (1 June 2016). 1275:made the first repeat of 1103:female first free ascents 1072: 986:), or even decades (e.g. 861:) on that first attempt. 3751:Mountain Safety Research 3746:Mountain Equipment Co-op 1368: 1237:In 1995, French climber 640:first female free ascent 3881:South Tyrol Alpine Club 3676:Eastern Mountain Sports 3542:Canadian Alpine Journal 3535:American Alpine Journal 2798:Roof and tunnel hacking 2442:. Cassell Illustrated. 2061:American Alpine Journal 1172:1924 Everest expedition 1084:on the FFA and FFFA of 948:makes the first repeat 926:in rock climbing. The " 730:also had first ascents. 3701:Holubar Mountaineering 3513:Magazines and journals 2843:IFSC World Cup winners 2464:Peter Mortimer's film 1089: 962: 884:are notable, for both 837: 692:golden age of alpinism 671: 636:first free solo ascent 3826:Alpine Club of Canada 3736:Marmot Mountain Works 3691:GERRY Mountain Sports 1080: 937: 822: 751:, where the hardest, 657: 3856:Club Alpino Italiano 3841:Austrian Alpine Club 3831:American Alpine Club 2408:. 16 November 2015. 2310:. 23 November 2020. 1525:McDonald, Bernadette 1099:Catherine Destivelle 843:traditional climbing 832:, the world's first 588:, and/or with large 3851:Club Alpin Français 3225:Mountaineering boot 2838:Piolet d'Or winners 2237:Ward, Pete (2004). 2215:on 10 February 2023 2208:National Geographic 2201:(29 January 2012). 2132:National Geographic 1902:. 7 November 2011. 1467:on 10 February 2023 1460:National Geographic 628:first winter ascent 626:in particular, the 93:Piolet d'Or winners 3871:German Alpine Club 2476:2008-09-04 at the 2138:on January 4, 2022 1932:. 23 August 2007. 1840:PlanetMountain.com 1417:The New York Times 1090: 963: 851:free solo climbing 838: 672: 615:(or more latterly 3994: 3993: 3934: 3933: 3886:Swiss Alpine Club 3639: 3638: 3594:Non-fiction films 3570:Planinski Vestnik 3563:Himalayan Journal 3501: 3500: 3263: 3262: 2892:Historical events 2863:Eight-thousanders 2816: 2815: 2670: 2669: 2068:(73): 228. 1999. 1872:. 3 August 2012. 1534:Himalayan Journal 1129:Josune Bereziartu 1125:big wall climbing 1082:Josune Bereziartu 907:'s greenpoint of 749:eight-thousanders 708:eight-thousanders 660:Kristoffer Szilas 632:first solo ascent 601:first free ascent 578:eight-thousanders 546: 545: 127:Eight-thousanders 117:Historical events 71:Red Rocks, Nevada 60:first free ascent 56:Jonathan Siegrist 18:First free ascent 16:(Redirected from 4019: 3982: 3981: 3970: 3969: 3958: 3957: 3946: 3804: 3803: 3756:Outdoor Research 3510: 3509: 2936: 2935: 2927: 2926: 2897:Grade milestones 2706:Expedition style 2541: 2540: 2532: 2531: 2514: 2507: 2500: 2491: 2490: 2486:(Issue 17, 2006) 2453: 2436:Stephen Venables 2422: 2421: 2419: 2417: 2398: 2392: 2391: 2389: 2387: 2366: 2360: 2359: 2357: 2355: 2333: 2324: 2323: 2321: 2319: 2300: 2294: 2293: 2291: 2289: 2267: 2261: 2260: 2258: 2256: 2234: 2225: 2224: 2222: 2220: 2211:. Archived from 2195: 2182: 2181: 2179: 2177: 2157: 2148: 2147: 2145: 2143: 2134:. Archived from 2123: 2117: 2116: 2114: 2112: 2090: 2084: 2083: 2078: 2077: 2052: 2046: 2045: 2043: 2041: 2019: 2010: 2009: 2007: 2005: 1994:Gripped Magazine 1985: 1979: 1978: 1976: 1974: 1952: 1946: 1945: 1943: 1941: 1922: 1916: 1915: 1913: 1911: 1892: 1886: 1885: 1883: 1881: 1862: 1856: 1855: 1853: 1851: 1831: 1816: 1815: 1813: 1811: 1789: 1783: 1782: 1780: 1778: 1773:. 2 October 2020 1763: 1748: 1747: 1745: 1743: 1732:Gripped Magazine 1723: 1708: 1707: 1705: 1703: 1681: 1672: 1671: 1669: 1667: 1636: 1627: 1626: 1624: 1622: 1600: 1591: 1590: 1585: 1583: 1561: 1555: 1554: 1552: 1550: 1521: 1510: 1509: 1507: 1505: 1483: 1477: 1476: 1474: 1472: 1463:. Archived from 1450: 1441: 1440: 1438: 1437: 1407: 1387: 1379: 1299: 1252: 1213:Compressor Route 1205: 1187:First ascent of 1153:being proposed: 1148:Notable disputes 1137:Ashima Shiraishi 1048:grade milestones 997: 955:Separate Reality 947: 924:grade milestones 882:grade milestones 815:In rock climbing 796:Ivano Ghirardini 745:Grandes Jorasses 724:Torres del Paine 658:Danish climbers 590:expedition style 560:(abbreviated to 538: 531: 524: 283:Expedition style 122:Grade milestones 53: 30: 29: 21: 4027: 4026: 4022: 4021: 4020: 4018: 4017: 4016: 3997: 3996: 3995: 3990: 3930: 3895: 3795: 3661:Cascade Designs 3635: 3589: 3497: 3384: 3259: 3193:Abalakov thread 3174: 2918: 2812: 2741: 2666: 2635: 2619:Deep-water solo 2523: 2518: 2478:Wayback Machine 2460: 2450: 2431: 2429:Further reading 2426: 2425: 2415: 2413: 2400: 2399: 2395: 2385: 2383: 2368: 2367: 2363: 2353: 2351: 2334: 2327: 2317: 2315: 2302: 2301: 2297: 2287: 2285: 2268: 2264: 2254: 2252: 2235: 2228: 2218: 2216: 2196: 2185: 2175: 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3901: 3897: 3896: 3894: 3893: 3888: 3883: 3878: 3873: 3868: 3863: 3858: 3853: 3848: 3843: 3838: 3833: 3828: 3823: 3818: 3812: 3810: 3801: 3797: 3796: 3794: 3793: 3788: 3783: 3781:The North Face 3778: 3773: 3768: 3763: 3758: 3753: 3748: 3743: 3738: 3733: 3728: 3723: 3718: 3713: 3711:Sierra Designs 3708: 3703: 3698: 3693: 3688: 3686:Frostline Kits 3683: 3678: 3673: 3668: 3663: 3658: 3653: 3647: 3645: 3641: 3640: 3637: 3636: 3634: 3633: 3626: 3619: 3612: 3605: 3597: 3595: 3591: 3590: 3588: 3587: 3580: 3577:Rock & Ice 3573: 3566: 3559: 3552: 3545: 3538: 3531: 3524: 3521:Alpine Journal 3516: 3514: 3507: 3503: 3502: 3499: 3498: 3496: 3495: 3494: 3493: 3488: 3483: 3478: 3470: 3465: 3460: 3455: 3450: 3449: 3448: 3443: 3438: 3433: 3428: 3423: 3418: 3411:Climbing route 3408: 3403: 3398: 3392: 3390: 3386: 3385: 3383: 3382: 3381: 3380: 3370: 3365: 3364: 3363: 3356:Simul-climbing 3353: 3348: 3347: 3346: 3341: 3331: 3330: 3329: 3324: 3319: 3309: 3304: 3299: 3297:Front pointing 3294: 3289: 3288: 3287: 3282: 3271: 3269: 3265: 3264: 3261: 3260: 3258: 3257: 3252: 3247: 3246: 3245: 3240: 3235: 3233:Avalanche cord 3227: 3222: 3217: 3216: 3215: 3205: 3200: 3198:Bottled oxygen 3195: 3190: 3184: 3182: 3176: 3175: 3173: 3172: 3167: 3162: 3161: 3160: 3150: 3145: 3144: 3143: 3138: 3128: 3123: 3118: 3113: 3112: 3111: 3101: 3100: 3099: 3089: 3084: 3079: 3078: 3077: 3072: 3062: 3057: 3056: 3055: 3045: 3040: 3039: 3038: 3033: 3028: 3018: 3017: 3016: 3006: 3001: 2996: 2995: 2994: 2989: 2984: 2974: 2973: 2972: 2962: 2957: 2956: 2955: 2944: 2942: 2933: 2924: 2920: 2919: 2917: 2916: 2911: 2906: 2905: 2904: 2899: 2889: 2888: 2887: 2882: 2872: 2871: 2870: 2865: 2857: 2856: 2855: 2853:IFSC victories 2850: 2845: 2840: 2830: 2824: 2822: 2818: 2817: 2814: 2813: 2811: 2810: 2805: 2800: 2795: 2790: 2785: 2780: 2775: 2770: 2765: 2760: 2755: 2749: 2747: 2743: 2742: 2740: 2739: 2738: 2737: 2727: 2726: 2725: 2720: 2710: 2709: 2708: 2703: 2693: 2692: 2691: 2680: 2678: 2676:Mountaineering 2672: 2671: 2668: 2667: 2665: 2664: 2659: 2654: 2649: 2643: 2641: 2637: 2636: 2634: 2633: 2628: 2627: 2626: 2621: 2616: 2606: 2605: 2604: 2599: 2589: 2588: 2587: 2577: 2576: 2575: 2565: 2564: 2563: 2553: 2547: 2545: 2538: 2529: 2525: 2524: 2517: 2516: 2509: 2502: 2494: 2488: 2487: 2459: 2458:External links 2456: 2455: 2454: 2449:978-1844037582 2448: 2430: 2427: 2424: 2423: 2393: 2375:Rock & Ice 2361: 2325: 2308:PlanetMountain 2295: 2262: 2226: 2199:Roberts, David 2183: 2149: 2118: 2085: 2047: 2011: 1980: 1947: 1930:PlanetMountain 1917: 1900:PlanetMountain 1887: 1870:PlanetMountain 1857: 1817: 1784: 1749: 1709: 1673: 1655:978-0898867633 1654: 1628: 1592: 1556: 1511: 1478: 1442: 1398: 1397: 1395: 1392: 1389: 1388: 1373: 1372: 1370: 1367: 1366: 1365: 1360: 1355: 1350: 1349: 1348: 1336: 1333: 1332: 1331: 1330: (5.15a). 1285: 1284: 1267:, was only at 1264:Action Directe 1233: 1230: 1229: 1228: 1217:Hayden Kennedy 1193:Cesare Maestri 1184: 1183: 1164:George Mallory 1158: 1157:Mountaineering 1155: 1149: 1146: 1145: 1144: 1107:famous example 1074: 1071: 1070: 1069: 1039: 1038: 1037: 1036: 1018: 1017: 1001: 1000: 977:Action Directe 932: 931: 915: 914: 913: 912: 905:Sonnie Trotter 894: 893: 847:sport climbing 816: 813: 812: 811: 800:Walter Bonatti 787: 786: 757: 756: 732: 731: 651: 648: 574:climbing route 550:mountaineering 544: 543: 541: 540: 533: 526: 518: 515: 514: 512: 511: 510: 509: 504: 499: 489: 484: 483: 482: 477: 467: 461: 458: 457: 453: 452: 450: 449: 444: 439: 437:Simul climbing 434: 429: 424: 423: 422: 412: 407: 401: 398: 397: 393: 392: 390: 389: 384: 379: 374: 369: 364: 359: 354: 349: 344: 339: 334: 329: 323: 320: 319: 315: 314: 312: 311: 310: 309: 299: 298: 297: 287: 286: 285: 280: 270: 269: 268: 263: 252: 249: 248: 246:mountaineering 241: 240: 238: 237: 232: 231: 230: 225: 220: 210: 209: 208: 203: 193: 192: 191: 181: 180: 179: 169: 168: 167: 157: 151: 148: 147: 140: 139: 137: 136: 131: 130: 129: 124: 114: 113: 112: 102: 101: 100: 98:IFSC victories 95: 84: 81: 80: 76: 75: 54: 46: 45: 39: 38: 26: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 4024: 4013: 4010: 4008: 4005: 4004: 4002: 3987: 3986: 3977: 3975: 3974: 3965: 3963: 3962: 3953: 3951: 3950: 3945: 3941: 3940: 3937: 3926: 3923: 3920: 3917: 3914: 3911: 3908: 3905: 3904: 3902: 3900:International 3898: 3892: 3889: 3887: 3884: 3882: 3879: 3877: 3874: 3872: 3869: 3867: 3864: 3862: 3859: 3857: 3854: 3852: 3849: 3847: 3844: 3842: 3839: 3837: 3834: 3832: 3829: 3827: 3824: 3822: 3819: 3817: 3814: 3813: 3811: 3809: 3805: 3802: 3800:Organizations 3798: 3792: 3789: 3787: 3784: 3782: 3779: 3777: 3774: 3772: 3769: 3767: 3764: 3762: 3759: 3757: 3754: 3752: 3749: 3747: 3744: 3742: 3739: 3737: 3734: 3732: 3729: 3727: 3724: 3722: 3719: 3717: 3714: 3712: 3709: 3707: 3704: 3702: 3699: 3697: 3694: 3692: 3689: 3687: 3684: 3682: 3679: 3677: 3674: 3672: 3671:Early Winters 3669: 3667: 3664: 3662: 3659: 3657: 3654: 3652: 3651:Black Diamond 3649: 3648: 3646: 3642: 3632: 3631: 3627: 3625: 3624: 3620: 3618: 3617: 3616:The Dawn Wall 3613: 3611: 3610: 3606: 3604: 3603: 3599: 3598: 3596: 3592: 3586: 3585: 3581: 3579: 3578: 3574: 3572: 3571: 3567: 3565: 3564: 3560: 3558: 3557: 3553: 3551: 3550: 3546: 3544: 3543: 3539: 3537: 3536: 3532: 3530: 3529: 3525: 3523: 3522: 3518: 3517: 3515: 3511: 3508: 3504: 3492: 3489: 3487: 3484: 3482: 3479: 3477: 3476:Bachar ladder 3474: 3473: 3471: 3469: 3466: 3464: 3461: 3459: 3456: 3454: 3451: 3447: 3444: 3442: 3439: 3437: 3434: 3432: 3429: 3427: 3426:Climbing wall 3424: 3422: 3419: 3417: 3414: 3413: 3412: 3409: 3407: 3404: 3402: 3401:Approach shoe 3399: 3397: 3394: 3393: 3391: 3387: 3379: 3376: 3375: 3374: 3371: 3369: 3366: 3362: 3359: 3358: 3357: 3354: 3352: 3349: 3345: 3342: 3340: 3337: 3336: 3335: 3332: 3328: 3325: 3323: 3320: 3318: 3315: 3314: 3313: 3310: 3308: 3305: 3303: 3300: 3298: 3295: 3293: 3290: 3286: 3283: 3281: 3278: 3277: 3276: 3273: 3272: 3270: 3266: 3256: 3253: 3251: 3248: 3244: 3241: 3239: 3236: 3234: 3231: 3230: 3228: 3226: 3223: 3221: 3218: 3214: 3211: 3210: 3209: 3206: 3204: 3201: 3199: 3196: 3194: 3191: 3189: 3186: 3185: 3183: 3181: 3177: 3171: 3168: 3166: 3163: 3159: 3156: 3155: 3154: 3151: 3149: 3146: 3142: 3139: 3137: 3134: 3133: 3132: 3129: 3127: 3124: 3122: 3119: 3117: 3114: 3110: 3107: 3106: 3105: 3102: 3098: 3095: 3094: 3093: 3090: 3088: 3085: 3083: 3080: 3076: 3073: 3071: 3068: 3067: 3066: 3063: 3061: 3058: 3054: 3051: 3050: 3049: 3046: 3044: 3041: 3037: 3034: 3032: 3029: 3027: 3024: 3023: 3022: 3021:Climbing rope 3019: 3015: 3012: 3011: 3010: 3007: 3005: 3002: 3000: 2997: 2993: 2990: 2988: 2985: 2983: 2980: 2979: 2978: 2975: 2971: 2968: 2967: 2966: 2963: 2961: 2958: 2954: 2951: 2950: 2949: 2946: 2945: 2943: 2941: 2937: 2934: 2932: 2928: 2925: 2921: 2915: 2912: 2910: 2907: 2903: 2902:First ascents 2900: 2898: 2895: 2894: 2893: 2890: 2886: 2883: 2881: 2878: 2877: 2876: 2873: 2869: 2866: 2864: 2861: 2860: 2858: 2854: 2851: 2849: 2846: 2844: 2841: 2839: 2836: 2835: 2834: 2831: 2829: 2826: 2825: 2823: 2819: 2809: 2806: 2804: 2801: 2799: 2796: 2794: 2791: 2789: 2786: 2784: 2781: 2779: 2776: 2774: 2771: 2769: 2766: 2764: 2761: 2759: 2756: 2754: 2751: 2750: 2748: 2744: 2736: 2733: 2732: 2731: 2728: 2724: 2721: 2719: 2716: 2715: 2714: 2711: 2707: 2704: 2702: 2699: 2698: 2697: 2694: 2690: 2687: 2686: 2685: 2682: 2681: 2679: 2677: 2673: 2663: 2660: 2658: 2655: 2653: 2650: 2648: 2645: 2644: 2642: 2638: 2632: 2629: 2625: 2622: 2620: 2617: 2615: 2612: 2611: 2610: 2607: 2603: 2600: 2598: 2595: 2594: 2593: 2590: 2586: 2583: 2582: 2581: 2578: 2574: 2571: 2570: 2569: 2566: 2562: 2559: 2558: 2557: 2554: 2552: 2549: 2548: 2546: 2542: 2539: 2537: 2536:Rock climbing 2533: 2530: 2526: 2522: 2515: 2510: 2508: 2503: 2501: 2496: 2495: 2492: 2485: 2484: 2479: 2475: 2472: 2471: 2467: 2462: 2461: 2451: 2445: 2441: 2437: 2433: 2432: 2411: 2407: 2403: 2397: 2381: 2377: 2376: 2371: 2365: 2349: 2345: 2344: 2339: 2332: 2330: 2313: 2309: 2305: 2299: 2283: 2279: 2278: 2273: 2266: 2250: 2246: 2245: 2240: 2233: 2231: 2214: 2210: 2209: 2204: 2200: 2194: 2192: 2190: 2188: 2171: 2167: 2163: 2156: 2154: 2137: 2133: 2129: 2122: 2106: 2102: 2101: 2096: 2089: 2082: 2071: 2067: 2063: 2062: 2057: 2051: 2035: 2031: 2030: 2025: 2018: 2016: 1999: 1995: 1991: 1984: 1968: 1964: 1963: 1958: 1951: 1935: 1931: 1927: 1921: 1905: 1901: 1897: 1891: 1875: 1871: 1867: 1861: 1845: 1841: 1837: 1830: 1828: 1826: 1824: 1822: 1805: 1801: 1800: 1795: 1788: 1772: 1768: 1762: 1760: 1758: 1756: 1754: 1737: 1733: 1729: 1722: 1720: 1718: 1716: 1714: 1697: 1693: 1692: 1687: 1680: 1678: 1661: 1657: 1651: 1647: 1646: 1641: 1635: 1633: 1616: 1612: 1611: 1606: 1599: 1597: 1589: 1577: 1573: 1572: 1567: 1560: 1544: 1540: 1536: 1535: 1530: 1526: 1520: 1518: 1516: 1499: 1495: 1494: 1489: 1482: 1466: 1462: 1461: 1456: 1449: 1447: 1431: 1427: 1423: 1419: 1418: 1413: 1406: 1404: 1399: 1384: 1378: 1374: 1364: 1361: 1359: 1356: 1354: 1351: 1347: 1344: 1343: 1342: 1339: 1338: 1329: 1325: 1321: 1317: 1313: 1312: 1307: 1304: 1300: 1297: 1292: 1287: 1286: 1282: 1278: 1274: 1270: 1266: 1265: 1260: 1257: 1253: 1250: 1245: 1240: 1239:Fred Rouhling 1236: 1235: 1232:Rock climbing 1226: 1222: 1218: 1214: 1209: 1203: 1198: 1194: 1190: 1186: 1185: 1181: 1177: 1173: 1169: 1168:Andrew Irvine 1165: 1161: 1160: 1154: 1142: 1138: 1134: 1130: 1126: 1122: 1118: 1114: 1113: 1108: 1104: 1100: 1096: 1092: 1091: 1087: 1083: 1079: 1067: 1063: 1059: 1055: 1054: 1049: 1045: 1041: 1040: 1034: 1030: 1026: 1022: 1021: 1020: 1019: 1015: 1011: 1007: 1003: 1002: 998: 995: 990: 985: 984: 979: 978: 973: 969: 965: 964: 961: 957: 956: 951: 945: 940: 936: 929: 925: 921: 917: 916: 910: 906: 902: 901:greenpointing 898: 897: 896: 895: 891: 887: 883: 879: 875: 871: 867: 866: 865: 862: 860: 856: 852: 848: 844: 835: 831: 830: 825: 821: 809: 805: 801: 797: 793: 792:solo climbing 789: 788: 784: 783:Hansjörg Auer 780: 776: 772: 768: 767:Marko Prezelj 764: 759: 758: 754: 750: 746: 742: 738: 734: 733: 729: 725: 721: 717: 716:Trango Towers 713: 709: 705: 701: 697: 693: 689: 688: 687: 684: 682: 678: 669: 665: 661: 656: 647: 645: 641: 637: 633: 629: 625: 620: 618: 614: 610: 606: 603:(abbreviated 602: 598: 597:free climbing 593: 591: 587: 583: 579: 575: 571: 567: 563: 559: 555: 551: 539: 534: 532: 527: 525: 520: 519: 517: 516: 508: 505: 503: 500: 498: 495: 494: 493: 490: 488: 485: 481: 478: 476: 473: 472: 471: 468: 466: 463: 462: 460: 459: 455: 454: 448: 445: 443: 440: 438: 435: 433: 432:Self rescuing 430: 428: 425: 421: 418: 417: 416: 413: 411: 408: 406: 403: 402: 400: 399: 395: 394: 388: 385: 383: 380: 378: 375: 373: 370: 368: 365: 363: 360: 358: 355: 353: 350: 348: 345: 343: 340: 338: 335: 333: 330: 328: 325: 324: 322: 321: 317: 316: 308: 305: 304: 303: 300: 296: 293: 292: 291: 288: 284: 281: 279: 276: 275: 274: 271: 267: 264: 262: 259: 258: 257: 254: 253: 251: 250: 247: 243: 242: 236: 233: 229: 226: 224: 221: 219: 216: 215: 214: 211: 207: 204: 202: 199: 198: 197: 194: 190: 187: 186: 185: 182: 178: 175: 174: 173: 170: 166: 163: 162: 161: 158: 156: 153: 152: 150: 149: 146: 145:rock climbing 142: 141: 135: 132: 128: 125: 123: 120: 119: 118: 115: 111: 108: 107: 106: 103: 99: 96: 94: 91: 90: 89: 86: 85: 83: 82: 78: 77: 72: 69: (8c+), 68: 65: 61: 57: 52: 48: 47: 44: 41: 40: 36: 32: 31: 19: 3983: 3971: 3959: 3947: 3891:USA Climbing 3791:Wild Country 3786:Therm-a-Rest 3628: 3621: 3614: 3607: 3602:The Alpinist 3600: 3582: 3575: 3568: 3561: 3554: 3547: 3540: 3533: 3526: 3519: 3481:Campus board 3436:First ascent 3435: 3180:Ice and snow 2977:Belay device 2828:Alpine clubs 2788:Ropes course 2701:Alpine style 2481: 2469: 2466:First Ascent 2465: 2440:First Ascent 2439: 2438:(May 2014). 2414:. Retrieved 2405: 2396: 2384:. Retrieved 2373: 2364: 2352:. Retrieved 2341: 2316:. Retrieved 2307: 2298: 2286:. Retrieved 2275: 2265: 2253:. Retrieved 2242: 2217:. Retrieved 2213:the original 2206: 2174:. Retrieved 2165: 2140:. Retrieved 2136:the original 2131: 2121: 2109:. Retrieved 2098: 2088: 2080: 2074:. Retrieved 2065: 2059: 2050: 2038:. Retrieved 2027: 2002:. Retrieved 1993: 1983: 1971:. Retrieved 1960: 1950: 1938:. Retrieved 1929: 1920: 1908:. Retrieved 1899: 1890: 1878:. Retrieved 1869: 1860: 1848:. Retrieved 1839: 1808:. Retrieved 1797: 1787: 1775:. Retrieved 1770: 1740:. Retrieved 1731: 1700:. Retrieved 1689: 1664:. Retrieved 1644: 1640:Twight, Mark 1619:. Retrieved 1608: 1587: 1580:. Retrieved 1569: 1559: 1547:. Retrieved 1538: 1532: 1502:. Retrieved 1493:The Guardian 1491: 1481: 1469:. Retrieved 1465:the original 1458: 1434:. Retrieved 1415: 1382: 1377: 1319: 1309: 1291:Chilam Balam 1289: 1276: 1262: 1242: 1212: 1208:Lionel Terry 1151: 1133:Angela Eiter 1110: 1085: 1061: 1058:Alex Honnold 1051: 1044:Free soloing 987: 981: 975: 953: 908: 874:headpointing 863: 839: 827: 763:alpine style 696:aid climbing 685: 681:alpine-style 673: 663: 643: 639: 635: 631: 627: 621: 616: 612: 604: 600: 594: 586:aid climbing 561: 558:first ascent 557: 547: 470:First ascent 469: 372:Roof hacking 362:Rock hopping 278:Alpine style 63: 3985:WikiProject 3821:Alpine Club 3816:Access Fund 3726:Lowe Alpine 3721:La Sportiva 3458:Fall factor 3351:Self-arrest 3327:Redpointing 3250:Snow anchor 3004:Boulder mat 2953:Daisy chain 2923:Terminology 2914:Terminology 2793:Rooftopping 2735:Hillwalking 2723:Dry-tooling 2689:Via ferrata 2602:Traditional 2580:Competition 2561:Multi-pitch 2544:Disciplines 2470:Cobra Crack 2416:10 February 2040:26 November 1910:22 December 1880:22 December 1810:13 February 1742:21 December 1383:lesser form 1311:Realization 1294: [ 1247: [ 1225:Piolet d'Or 1200: [ 1191:: In 1959, 1189:Cerro Torre 1141:Beth Rodden 992: [ 942: [ 878:redpointing 771:Mick Fowler 677:Piolet d'Or 664:Lost to Ice 619:) a route. 566:guide books 420:Redpointing 396:Key actions 367:Rooftopping 318:Other types 307:Hillwalking 295:Dry-tooling 266:Via ferrata 206:Traditional 184:Competition 165:Multi-pitch 134:Terminology 4001:Categories 3609:El Capitan 3373:Traversing 3322:Onsighting 3302:Glissading 3285:Dülfersitz 3280:Australian 3243:Transeiver 3188:Alpenstock 3121:Portaledge 3109:Copperhead 3048:Descenders 2982:Auto belay 2773:Commercial 2753:Buildering 2730:Scrambling 2640:Rock types 2631:Top roping 2568:Bouldering 2386:8 February 2354:9 February 2219:8 February 2176:29 January 2142:20 January 2111:4 December 2076:2023-02-11 2004:8 February 1973:8 February 1940:8 February 1702:8 February 1666:10 January 1504:9 February 1471:8 February 1436:2021-11-30 1394:References 1324:Adam Ondra 1303:first-ever 1256:first-ever 1221:David Lama 1197:Toni Egger 1178:, and the 1117:El Capitan 983:Jumbo Love 972:chronicled 952:ascent of 920:pre-bolted 872:, called " 824:Adam Ondra 804:Tomo Česen 779:David Lama 775:Ueli Steck 743:, and the 741:Matterhorn 702:, and the 668:TD M4, WI4 609:protection 447:Techniques 442:Traversing 347:Commercial 327:Buildering 302:Scrambling 235:Top roping 172:Bouldering 3761:Patagonia 3644:Companies 3630:Hard Grit 3623:Free Solo 3491:MoonBoard 3486:Hangboard 3472:Training 3421:Guidebook 3396:Ape index 3361:Rope team 3275:Abseiling 3220:Ice screw 3126:Quickdraw 3009:Carabiner 2931:Equipment 2909:Technique 2875:Equipment 2758:Canyoning 2696:Himalayan 2624:Rope solo 2614:Free solo 1850:4 January 1777:1 January 1621:2 January 1582:1 January 1549:2 January 1426:0362-4331 1314:, was at 1095:Lynn Hill 1062:Freerider 1053:Free Solo 1016:climbers. 1006:onsighted 950:free solo 939:Heinz Zak 892:climbers. 855:onsighted 728:Patagonia 720:Karakorum 456:Key terms 405:Abseiling 332:Canyoning 273:Himalayan 244:Types of 228:Rope solo 218:Free solo 143:Types of 105:Equipment 62:(FFA) of 4007:Climbing 3961:Category 3808:National 3706:JanSport 3681:Five Ten 3556:Desnivel 3549:Climbing 3528:Alpinist 3453:Exposure 3431:Chipping 3378:Tyrolean 3368:Spotting 3339:Crevasse 3317:Flashing 3307:Jumaring 3292:Belaying 3255:Snowshoe 3213:Ice tool 3203:Crampons 3053:Figure-8 2965:Ascender 2833:Climbers 2573:Highball 2556:Big wall 2521:Climbing 2483:Alpinist 2474:Archived 2410:Archived 2380:Archived 2378:. 2014. 2348:Archived 2343:Climbing 2312:Archived 2282:Archived 2277:Climbing 2249:Archived 2244:Climbing 2170:Archived 2166:Climbing 2105:Archived 2070:Archived 2034:Archived 2029:Climbing 1998:Archived 1967:Archived 1962:Alpinist 1934:Archived 1904:Archived 1874:Archived 1844:Archived 1804:Archived 1799:Climbing 1736:Archived 1696:Archived 1691:Climbing 1660:Archived 1615:Archived 1610:Alpinist 1576:Archived 1571:Alpinist 1543:Archived 1527:(2017). 1498:Archived 1430:Archived 1335:See 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Index

First free ascent
a series
Climbing

Jonathan Siegrist
first free ascent
5.14c
Red Rocks, Nevada
Climbers
Piolet d'Or winners
IFSC victories
Equipment
Knots
Historical events
Grade milestones
Eight-thousanders
Terminology
rock climbing
Aid
Big wall
Multi-pitch
Bouldering
Highball
Competition
Speed
Free
Sport
Traditional
Solo
Free solo

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