Knowledge

Free climbing

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Free climbing means using no form of artificial or mechanical aid to help progression in ascending a route. Even the act of pulling on the climbing protection equipment as employed in 'French free climbing' (either placed by the climber while climbing or already in situ with pre-placed
1032: 1042: 669:(V+/A1), in the Frankenjura, signifying he had "free climbed" it as a redpoint (i.e. after many failed attempts); the redpoint became the accepted definition of what constituted a " 632:" and proposed 6 rules of free climbing including the important rule 4: "The piton is an emergency aid and not the basis of a system of mountaineering". In 1913, German climber 2818: 919:, i.e. that you must always climb the route first try. Free climbing in traditional climbing and sport climbing also uses the 'redpoint' as a definition of a first free ascent. 748:
Despite the name, 'French free climbing' is not considered 'free climbing' per se, and a climber that uses the technique could not claim a 'first free ascent' of a new route.
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the sport of climbing on rocks, up mountains, or up walls or buildings using no equipment to help you to climb, only ropes or other safety devices that prevent falling
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to protect the soft sandstone rock. The rules said that only natural holds were allowed, and these "rules for free climbing" are in still use today.
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equipment is used (placed by the climber as they ascend the route), but not for any form of aid in progression on the climbing route.
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to help overcome the obstacles encountered while ascending a route. The development of free climbing was an important moment in the
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climbing without using pitons, Ă©triers, etc, as direct aids to ascent, but using ropes, belays, etc, at discretion for security
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equipment. Free climbing in traditional climbing and sport climbing uses climbing protection (but not to aid progression).
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routes where it is important that the climber(s) progress efficiently and not get overly delayed on a specific section.
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Free climbing can be performed in several formats depending on the type of climbing protection used, including
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on traditional climbing routes), as a source of aid in ascending the climbing route. It is equivalent to an
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are used for climbing protection, but again, not for any form of aid in progression on the climbing route.
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dispute"), by advocating for a transition to "free climbing" via a series of essays and articles in the
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Free climbing has been called "rock climbing's most commonly mistaken term", with problems including:
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Free climbing can be performed in a variety of types of climbing, and most importantly:
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Free climbing is related to, but separate from, the broader climbing topic area of
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The free climbing movement was an important development in the
1250:"Who Did It First? Style, Grades and Dispute in First Ascents" 2871: 2718: 2190: 2068: 1900: 1223:"What Is A Redpoint In Climbing? – Climbing Jargon Explained" 1107:
Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research
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Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes
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The first "free climb" of a climbing route is known as the
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but not as an artificial aid to help them in ascending the
1198:"Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean?" 689:. They also chronicle whether the "free climb" was done 1069:"The Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical" 1033:"Rock climbing: from ancient practice to Olympic sport" 911:
Incorrectly assuming that "free climbing" always means
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Incorrectly assuming that "free climbing" always means
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Incorrectly assuming that "free climbing" always means
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aid climbing technique and is typically used on longer
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Zhu, Beifeng; Chen, Ruizhi; Li, Yuan (9 August 2021).
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Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
1309:"Climb Long Routes Faster With This Simple Aid Trick" 685:, or FFA, and is chronicled by climbing journals and 2866:
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
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Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
1146:"Kurt Albert is dead. Goodbye to a climbing legend" 19:For climbing without protection or a partner, see 1103:"The Origin and Early Evolution of Rock Climbing" 588:(uses permanently fixed in-situ protection), and 2951: 1401: 693:(i.e. first try without any prior information), 1458: 527: 697:(i.e. first try with prior information), or 1433:Free Climbing vs Free Solo vs Solo Climbing 2860:International Federation of Sport Climbing 1465: 1451: 1375: 1063: 647:), which included the first binding rules 638:Der Bergsteiger in der Sächsischen Schweiz 534: 520: 1118: 1100: 1030: 1408:Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills 1247: 1096: 1094: 1026: 1024: 1306: 1057: 712: 584:(uses temporary removable protection), 2952: 1276: 1274: 1272: 1170:Hobley, Nicholas (28 September 2020). 1169: 1143: 1446: 1341: 1339: 1337: 1335: 1333: 1331: 1329: 1195: 1091: 1021: 836:and carries an aid climbing grade of 2920: 1411:(9th ed.). Quiller Publishing. 1144:Hobley, Nicholas (29 October 2010). 1031:Wilkinson, Freddie (14 March 2019). 880: 676: 2932: 1269: 1248:Sanzarro, Francis (22 March 2022). 904:, i.e. that you must never use any 16:Climbing without using aid climbing 13: 1369: 1326: 1215: 1189: 596:(uses no protection whatsoever). 577:(or FFA) of a route by a climber. 553:in which the climber can only use 14: 2971: 2829:South African Climbing Federation 1426: 658:painted his first "Rotpunkt" (or 612:started what became known as the 2931: 2919: 2908: 2907: 2895: 1801:IFSC World Championships winners 1196:Pardy, Aaron (5 November 2022). 811: 797: 780: 765: 636:published the second edition of 45: 1307:Synnott, Mark (2 August 2021). 1300: 1241: 2799:British Mountaineering Council 1282:"What is French free climbing" 1163: 1137: 990: 959: 759:Various forms of free climbing 1: 1379:; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). 952: 1472: 608:. In 1911, Austrian climber 7: 1120:10.2991/assehr.k.210806.124 1113:. Atlantis Press: 662–667. 930: 10: 2976: 1003:Collins English Dictionary 599: 18: 2891: 2852: 2789:Appalachian Mountain Club 2759: 2752: 2596: 2546: 2465: 2458: 2341: 2220: 2131: 1891: 1882: 1875: 1773: 1698: 1627: 1592: 1496: 1487: 1480: 860:, where pre-placed fixed 2704:Mountain Safety Research 2699:Mountain Equipment Co-op 751: 705:are important events in 654:In 1975, German climber 649:for climbing in the area 606:history of rock climbing 571:history of rock climbing 2834:South Tyrol Alpine Club 2629:Eastern Mountain Sports 2495:Canadian Alpine Journal 2488:American Alpine Journal 1751:Roof and tunnel hacking 2654:Holubar Mountaineering 2466:Magazines and journals 1796:IFSC World Cup winners 51:Climber free climbing 2779:Alpine Club of Canada 2689:Marmot Mountain Works 2644:GERRY Mountain Sports 662:) on the base of the 625:German Alpine Journal 2809:Club Alpino Italiano 2794:Austrian Alpine Club 2784:American Alpine Club 972:Cambridge Dictionary 848:Traditional climbing 719:French free climbing 713:French free climbing 582:traditional climbing 65:traditional climbing 2804:Club Alpin Français 2178:Mountaineering boot 1791:Piolet d'Or winners 1038:National Geographic 906:climbing protection 852:climbing protection 667:Adolf Rott Ged.-Weg 559:climbing protection 91:Piolet d'Or winners 69:climbing protection 2824:German Alpine Club 942:Rope solo climbing 937:Free solo climbing 874:Free solo climbing 850:, where temporary 805:Free solo climbing 628:where he defined " 594:free solo climbing 555:climbing equipment 53:Sugar Cane Country 21:Free solo climbing 2960:Types of climbing 2947: 2946: 2887: 2886: 2839:Swiss Alpine Club 2592: 2591: 2547:Non-fiction films 2523:Planinski Vestnik 2516:Himalayan Journal 2454: 2453: 2216: 2215: 1845:Historical events 1816:Eight-thousanders 1769: 1768: 1623: 1622: 1381:How to Rock Climb 1130:978-94-6239-414-8 1045:on March 27, 2021 881:Misunderstandings 789:traditional climb 739:big wall climbing 717:The derived term 683:first free ascent 677:First free ascent 671:first free ascent 644:Saxon Switzerland 575:first free ascent 544: 543: 125:Eight-thousanders 115:Historical events 67:style (i.e. with 2967: 2935: 2934: 2923: 2922: 2911: 2910: 2899: 2757: 2756: 2709:Outdoor Research 2463: 2462: 1889: 1888: 1880: 1879: 1850:Grade milestones 1659:Expedition style 1494: 1493: 1485: 1484: 1467: 1460: 1453: 1444: 1443: 1422: 1403:The Mountaineers 1398: 1383:(6th ed.). 1363: 1362: 1360: 1358: 1343: 1324: 1323: 1321: 1319: 1304: 1298: 1297: 1295: 1293: 1278: 1267: 1266: 1264: 1262: 1245: 1239: 1238: 1236: 1234: 1229:. 2 October 2020 1219: 1213: 1212: 1210: 1208: 1202:Gripped Magazine 1193: 1187: 1186: 1184: 1182: 1167: 1161: 1160: 1158: 1156: 1141: 1135: 1134: 1122: 1098: 1089: 1088: 1086: 1084: 1065:Middendorf, John 1061: 1055: 1054: 1052: 1050: 1041:. Archived from 1028: 1019: 1018: 1013: 1011: 994: 988: 987: 982: 980: 963: 832:) is considered 815: 801: 784: 769: 707:climbing history 703:grade milestones 615:Mauerhakenstreit 536: 529: 522: 281:Expedition style 120:Grade milestones 49: 26: 25: 2975: 2974: 2970: 2969: 2968: 2966: 2965: 2964: 2950: 2949: 2948: 2943: 2883: 2848: 2748: 2614:Cascade Designs 2588: 2542: 2450: 2337: 2212: 2146:Abalakov thread 2127: 1871: 1765: 1694: 1619: 1588: 1572:Deep-water solo 1476: 1471: 1429: 1419: 1395: 1372: 1370:Further reading 1367: 1366: 1356: 1354: 1353:. 11 April 2021 1345: 1344: 1327: 1317: 1315: 1305: 1301: 1291: 1289: 1288:. 12 April 2021 1280: 1279: 1270: 1260: 1258: 1246: 1242: 1232: 1230: 1221: 1220: 1216: 1206: 1204: 1194: 1190: 1180: 1178: 1168: 1164: 1154: 1152: 1142: 1138: 1131: 1099: 1092: 1082: 1080: 1062: 1058: 1048: 1046: 1029: 1022: 1009: 1007: 998:"Free climbing" 996: 995: 991: 978: 976: 967:"Free climbing" 965: 964: 960: 955: 933: 883: 825: 824: 823: 822: 821: 816: 808: 807: 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1655: 1652: 1651: 1650: 1647: 1643: 1640: 1639: 1638: 1635: 1634: 1632: 1630: 1626: 1616: 1613: 1611: 1608: 1606: 1603: 1601: 1598: 1597: 1595: 1591: 1585: 1582: 1578: 1575: 1573: 1570: 1568: 1565: 1564: 1563: 1560: 1556: 1553: 1551: 1548: 1547: 1546: 1543: 1539: 1536: 1535: 1534: 1531: 1527: 1524: 1523: 1522: 1519: 1515: 1512: 1511: 1510: 1507: 1505: 1502: 1501: 1499: 1495: 1492: 1490: 1489:Rock climbing 1486: 1483: 1479: 1475: 1468: 1463: 1461: 1456: 1454: 1449: 1448: 1445: 1438: 1434: 1431: 1430: 1420: 1414: 1410: 1409: 1404: 1400: 1396: 1390: 1386: 1385:Falcon Guides 1382: 1378: 1374: 1373: 1352: 1348: 1342: 1340: 1338: 1336: 1334: 1332: 1330: 1314: 1310: 1303: 1287: 1283: 1277: 1275: 1273: 1257: 1256: 1251: 1244: 1228: 1224: 1218: 1203: 1199: 1192: 1177: 1173: 1166: 1151: 1147: 1140: 1132: 1126: 1121: 1116: 1112: 1108: 1104: 1097: 1095: 1078: 1074: 1070: 1066: 1060: 1044: 1040: 1039: 1034: 1027: 1025: 1017: 1005: 1004: 999: 993: 986: 974: 973: 968: 962: 958: 948: 947:Solo climbing 945: 943: 940: 938: 935: 934: 928: 926: 918: 914: 910: 907: 903: 899: 896: 892: 891:solo climbing 888: 887: 886: 875: 872: 869: 866: 863: 859: 856: 853: 849: 846: 845: 844: 841: 839: 835: 831: 820: 814: 806: 800: 790: 783: 775: 768: 749: 746: 744: 740: 736: 732: 728: 724: 720: 710: 708: 704: 700: 696: 692: 688: 684: 674: 672: 668: 665: 661: 657: 652: 650: 646: 645: 639: 635: 631: 627: 626: 621: 617: 616: 611: 607: 597: 595: 591: 587: 583: 578: 576: 572: 568: 564: 560: 556: 552: 551:rock climbing 549:is a form of 548: 547:Free climbing 537: 532: 530: 525: 523: 518: 517: 515: 514: 506: 503: 501: 498: 496: 493: 492: 491: 488: 486: 483: 479: 476: 474: 471: 470: 469: 466: 464: 461: 460: 458: 457: 453: 452: 446: 443: 441: 438: 436: 433: 431: 430:Self rescuing 428: 426: 423: 419: 416: 415: 414: 411: 409: 406: 404: 401: 400: 398: 397: 393: 392: 386: 383: 381: 378: 376: 373: 371: 368: 366: 363: 361: 358: 356: 353: 351: 348: 346: 343: 341: 338: 336: 333: 331: 328: 326: 323: 322: 320: 319: 315: 314: 306: 303: 302: 301: 298: 294: 291: 290: 289: 286: 282: 279: 277: 274: 273: 272: 269: 265: 262: 260: 257: 256: 255: 252: 251: 249: 248: 245: 241: 240: 234: 231: 227: 224: 222: 219: 217: 214: 213: 212: 209: 205: 202: 200: 197: 196: 195: 192: 188: 185: 184: 183: 180: 176: 173: 172: 171: 168: 164: 161: 160: 159: 156: 154: 151: 150: 148: 147: 144: 143:rock climbing 140: 139: 133: 130: 126: 123: 121: 118: 117: 116: 113: 109: 106: 105: 104: 101: 97: 94: 92: 89: 88: 87: 84: 83: 81: 80: 76: 75: 70: 66: 62: 58: 54: 48: 44: 43: 40: 37: 36: 32: 28: 27: 22: 2936: 2924: 2912: 2900: 2844:USA Climbing 2744:Wild Country 2739:Therm-a-Rest 2581: 2574: 2567: 2560: 2555:The Alpinist 2553: 2535: 2528: 2521: 2514: 2507: 2500: 2493: 2486: 2479: 2472: 2434:Campus board 2389:First ascent 2133:Ice and snow 1930:Belay device 1781:Alpine clubs 1741:Ropes course 1654:Alpine style 1544: 1436: 1406: 1380: 1355:. Retrieved 1350: 1316:. Retrieved 1312: 1302: 1290:. Retrieved 1285: 1259:. Retrieved 1253: 1243: 1231:. Retrieved 1226: 1217: 1205:. Retrieved 1201: 1191: 1179:. Retrieved 1175: 1165: 1153:. Retrieved 1149: 1139: 1110: 1106: 1081:. Retrieved 1072: 1059: 1047:. Retrieved 1043:the original 1036: 1015: 1008:. Retrieved 1001: 992: 984: 979:25 September 977:. Retrieved 970: 961: 922: 902:free soloing 884: 842: 834:aid climbing 826: 747: 718: 716: 680: 666: 653: 641: 637: 623: 614: 603: 579: 567:aid climbing 546: 545: 468:First ascent 370:Roof hacking 360:Rock hopping 276:Alpine style 193: 52: 2938:WikiProject 2774:Alpine Club 2769:Access Fund 2679:Lowe Alpine 2674:La Sportiva 2411:Fall factor 2304:Self-arrest 2280:Redpointing 2203:Snow anchor 1957:Boulder mat 1906:Daisy chain 1876:Terminology 1867:Terminology 1746:Rooftopping 1688:Hillwalking 1676:Dry-tooling 1642:Via ferrata 1555:Traditional 1533:Competition 1514:Multi-pitch 1497:Disciplines 1207:21 December 1181:21 December 1155:21 December 1083:21 December 1077:Sierra Club 1049:26 November 774:sport climb 687:guide books 656:Kurt Albert 610:Paul Preuss 418:Redpointing 394:Key actions 365:Rooftopping 316:Other types 305:Hillwalking 293:Dry-tooling 264:Via ferrata 204:Traditional 182:Competition 163:Multi-pitch 132:Terminology 71:equipment). 2562:El Capitan 2326:Traversing 2275:Onsighting 2255:Glissading 2238:DĂĽlfersitz 2233:Australian 2196:Transeiver 2141:Alpenstock 2074:Portaledge 2062:Copperhead 2001:Descenders 1935:Auto belay 1726:Commercial 1706:Buildering 1683:Scrambling 1593:Rock types 1584:Top roping 1521:Bouldering 1437:HardClimbs 1377:Long, John 1357:8 February 1318:9 February 1261:8 February 953:References 913:onsighting 868:Bouldering 819:Bouldering 787:Leading a 772:Leading a 729:routes or 723:quickdraws 699:redpointed 590:bouldering 445:Techniques 440:Traversing 345:Commercial 325:Buildering 300:Scrambling 233:Top roping 170:Bouldering 2714:Patagonia 2597:Companies 2583:Hard Grit 2576:Free Solo 2444:MoonBoard 2439:Hangboard 2425:Training 2374:Guidebook 2349:Ape index 2314:Rope team 2228:Abseiling 2173:Ice screw 2079:Quickdraw 1962:Carabiner 1884:Equipment 1862:Technique 1828:Equipment 1711:Canyoning 1649:Himalayan 1577:Rope solo 1567:Free solo 1233:1 January 1079:: 149–173 1010:2 October 735:A0-graded 664:aid climb 454:Key terms 403:Abseiling 330:Canyoning 271:Himalayan 242:Types of 226:Rope solo 216:Free solo 141:Types of 103:Equipment 59:, in the 2954:Category 2914:Category 2761:National 2659:JanSport 2634:Five Ten 2509:Desnivel 2502:Climbing 2481:Alpinist 2406:Exposure 2384:Chipping 2331:Tyrolean 2321:Spotting 2292:Crevasse 2270:Flashing 2260:Jumaring 2245:Belaying 2208:Snowshoe 2166:Ice tool 2156:Crampons 2006:Figure-8 1918:Ascender 1786:Climbers 1526:Highball 1509:Big wall 1474:Climbing 1405:(2018). 1313:Climbing 1255:Climbing 1067:(1999). 931:See also 917:flashing 660:redpoint 425:Jumaring 408:Belaying 175:Highball 158:Big wall 86:Climbers 61:Hebrides 39:Climbing 31:a series 29:Part of 2926:Commons 2880:(UIMLA) 2874:(UIAGM) 2265:Leading 2182:Rescue 2161:Ice axe 2111:Camalot 2045:Lanyard 2028:Skyhook 2013:Harness 1984:Dynamic 1967:Maillon 1940:Glasses 1821:Everest 1812:Deaths 1731:Parkour 1351:Climber 1292:5 March 1286:Climber 1227:Climber 895:belayer 695:flashed 691:onsight 600:History 413:Leading 350:Parkour 2902:Portal 2868:(UIAA) 2862:(IFSC) 2694:Millet 2684:Mammut 2649:Grivel 2619:Deuter 2537:Summit 2421:Guides 2416:Grades 2287:Rescue 2221:Action 2123:Tricam 2089:Grigri 2035:Hammer 1989:Static 1945:Gloves 1913:Anchor 1833:Brands 1637:Alpine 1439:(2023) 1415:  1391:  1127:  1073:Ascent 1006:. 2023 975:. 2023 727:bolted 463:Anchor 254:Alpine 2719:Petzl 2669:Kelty 2459:Media 2394:Pitch 2359:Clean 2342:Other 2191:RECCO 2118:Shoes 2106:SLCDs 2101:Sling 2069:Piton 2018:Hooks 1996:Chalk 1923:Croll 1901:Aider 1838:Knots 1774:Lists 1756:Slide 1721:Grass 1716:Crane 1699:Other 1671:Mixed 1600:Crack 1550:Sport 1538:Speed 1481:Types 862:bolts 830:bolts 752:Types 731:SCLDs 620:piton 618:(or " 563:route 505:Pitch 500:Guide 490:Route 485:Grade 380:Slide 340:Grass 335:Crane 259:Mixed 199:Sport 187:Speed 108:Knots 77:Lists 63:) in 57:E4 6a 2609:CAMP 2399:Topo 2369:Beta 2297:Self 2094:Revo 2084:SLDs 2023:Fifi 1979:Cord 1952:Bolt 1893:Rock 1761:Tree 1736:Pole 1615:Slab 1610:Roof 1605:Face 1562:Solo 1545:Free 1413:ISBN 1389:ISBN 1359:2023 1320:2023 1294:2023 1263:2023 1235:2022 1209:2022 1183:2022 1157:2022 1125:ISBN 1085:2022 1051:2022 1012:2023 981:2023 640:(or 592:and 557:for 495:Beta 478:FFFA 385:Tree 375:Rope 355:Pole 211:Solo 194:Free 2729:REI 2724:Rab 2057:Nut 2050:PAC 2040:Hex 1666:Ice 1504:Aid 1115:doi 1111:571 915:or 741:or 725:on 673:". 473:FFA 288:Ice 153:Aid 2956:: 1435:, 1387:. 1349:. 1328:^ 1311:. 1284:. 1271:^ 1252:. 1225:. 1200:. 1174:. 1148:. 1123:. 1105:. 1093:^ 1075:. 1071:. 1035:. 1023:^ 1014:. 1000:. 983:. 969:. 840:. 838:A0 709:. 33:on 1466:e 1459:t 1452:v 1421:. 1397:. 1361:. 1322:. 1296:. 1265:. 1237:. 1211:. 1185:. 1159:. 1133:. 1117:: 1087:. 1053:. 897:. 535:e 528:t 521:v 55:( 23:.

Index

Free solo climbing
a series
Climbing

E4 6a
Hebrides
traditional climbing
climbing protection
Climbers
Piolet d'Or winners
IFSC victories
Equipment
Knots
Historical events
Grade milestones
Eight-thousanders
Terminology
rock climbing
Aid
Big wall
Multi-pitch
Bouldering
Highball
Competition
Speed
Free
Sport
Traditional
Solo
Free solo

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