171:
164:
367:
359:
51:
308:, Kamet is very remote and not as accessible as some Himalayan peaks. It also receives a great deal of wind from the Plateau. However, by modern standards, it is a relatively straightforward ascent for such a high mountain. Early explorers of the region faced long approach marches of around 200 miles (321.9 km) from
584:. At dawn and dusk, "the copper colored rock of Mount Kamet reflecting the oblique rays of the sun on its hanging glaciers appears to set these glaciers aglow with crackling flames and bathes the mountain in a red burning glow". Hence the term "glacier fire" is also used as an allusion to the name Kamet.
795:
The West (Pachmi or
Paschimi) Kamet Glacier, the East (Purbi or Purva) Kamet Glacier and the Raikana Glacier systems surround Kamet. The branches of the West Kamet Glacier head on the western slopes of Kamet, Abi Gamin, and Mukut Parbat. The East Kamet Glacier flows from the eastern side of Kamet and
620:
to make surveys, travel into Tibet in disguise. After being discovered and arrested, they return, and attempt Abi Gamin from Tibet (via the Abi Gamin
Glacier), believing it to be Kamet. (This mistake hampers expeditions until 1912.) They claim to reach a height of 6,785 m (22,260 ft), which
639:
and A. L. Mumm, with alpine guides Alexis and Henri
Brocherel, make a preliminary reconnaissance of the eastern and western sides of Kamet. The highest point reached is 6,100 m (20,000 ft) above the East Kamet Glacier. Longstaff deems the East Kamet route as too dangerous due to avalanche
777:
2010: A 6-member team led by
Herbert Wolf followed the traditional route to the summit via the Purbi Kamet glacier and the Meade's col. Four high camps were established and the attempt took place from the summit camp at an altitude of 7080 m. On 28 September 2010, the leader with Oliver Amann,
786:. 2012: the team of Bengol, Bharat (Abdul Kalam Educational Society) Celebrated the 150th birthday of Swami Vivekananda. Summit by three sherpa (Lakpa Sherpa, Migma Sherpa and Dukkpa Sherpa) and three members (Md.Gazali Khan, Santu Biswash and Nandan Prasad Jaiswal " Nandu").
350:. From Meade's Col the route ascends the northeast edge of the north face. The ascent to Meade's col involves steep gullies, a rock wall, and several glacier climbs. Five camps are usually placed en route. The final ascent to the summit involves steep snow, possibly icy.
823:
conducted scientific studies during their 1920 Kamet expedition focusing on the physiology of high altitude travel and acclimatization, and on the possibility of using supplemental oxygen. These studies eventually proved useful on expeditions to Mount
Everest.
662:
in the canton Valais, Pierre Blanc, Justin Blanc and Jean Perrin, attempts Kamet by
Slingsby's route, and also later explores the Raikhana glacier system to the east of Kamet. Meade concludes that the East Kamet Glacier is the only practicable route to Kamet's
1012:, Kolkata Section, Himalayan Club, 2006; 160 pages. (Commemorating 75 years after the first ascent; an exhaustive anthology of articles by famous mountaineers, plus maps, routes and rare historical photographs, including those taken by Frank Smythe.)
781:
2012: Southwest face (2,000m) was climbed for the first time by French climbers, Sébastien Bohin, Didier
Jourdan, Sébastien Moatti, and Sébastien Ratel, following a route that they called Spicy Game, and for which they won a 2013
697:
returns to the
Bhyundar Valley and makes the solo first ascent of Mana on 12 August, through its south ridge from the plateau at the head of the Uttari Naktoni glacier. His companion P.R. Oliver stopped exhausted at
773:
2010: An avalanche kills Lt Col C. Poornachandra and Maj Manish Gusain. They were a part of a 41-member Indian army team led by Col Ajay
Kothiyal. None of the 41-members summitted the peak due to lack of technical
654:
1911: Capt. A. M. Slingsby attempts Kamet on the western side from
Ghastoli Glacier (or West Kamet Glacier) via the col on the ridge between Abi Gamin and Mukut Parbat (subsequently named as Slingsby's Col, 6,400
738:
1966: Mana is climbed on 19 September by a new route, the NW ridge from Purbi Kamet glacier which had rebuffed Smythe in 1937, by Pranesh Chakraborty, Pasang Phutar, Tshering Lhakpa, Pasang Tshering from Camp
628:, under E. C. Ryall, accurately surveys Kamet's position. However, he supports the inaccurate belief that Abi Gamin is a minor subpeak of Kamet and that a northern route to the summit is practical.
756:
2000: To mark the turn of century, Ruptaps Mountaineering Club from Asansol, West Bengal climbed Kamet on 3 October 2000. The summiters were Leader Gautam Mukherjee and Jasjeet Singh.
796:
Mana. The Raikhana glacier originates on the east side of Meade's Col saddle, flows east of Abi Gamin, and unites with the East Kamet Glacier. The West Kamet Glacier drains into the
346:
The standard route begins from the East Kamet (or Purbi Kamet) Glacier, ascending via Meade's Col (c. 7,100m/23,300 ft), the saddle between Kamet and its northern outlier
331:, the expedition's doctor, Bill Birnie and Lewa Sherpa, members of a British expedition. Kamet was the first peak over 25,000 ft (7,620 m) to be climbed, and was the
576:, "little"), as distinct from the "higher snows" of the Kailash range, 110 miles east of Kamet. This range is slightly lower than Kamet, its highest peak being
937:
742:
1986 Kamet was scaled by Mountaineering Club from Mumbai – Girivihar on 11 June 1986. Leader – Shrikant Oka, Summiters – Anil Kumar and Sanjay Borole,
120:
676:
1914: Kellas makes another reconnaissance of which no records are available, and which is probably abandoned midway due to the commencement of
419:, northwest of Kamet. First ascent 1951 (see below). The lower of Mukut Parbat's twin summit has an elevation of 7,130 m (23,392 ft).
1066:
511:
Several adjoining peaks, such as Mana NW, 7,092 m, Point 6,977 m, Deoban, 6,855 m, and Bidhan Parbat, 6,519 m, also lie close to Kamet.
673:
1913: Meade, with Alpine guide Pierre Blanc, attempts Kamet from the eastern side and reaches Meade's Col, 7,138 m. (23,420 ft).
163:
735:, Da Namgyal, Ang Temba, and Hlakpa Dorje comprised the summit team. Their route followed the ridge linking Abi Gamin and Kamet.
1061:
332:
106:
778:
Nicolas Touboul, Bernd Mayer and Roland Brand reached the summit. Erich Eisele could not go above 5620 m for health reasons.
479:
432:
391:
666:
1913: Slingsby attempts the same route as in 1911 and reaches 7,000 m (23,000 ft). He later dies in battle in
1056:
1025:
941:
797:
113:
651:, make a preliminary reconnaissance of the western side of the peak; they explore Khaiam Pass and Glacier.
90:
763:
puts ten climbers on the summit of Kamet. (First ascensionist Frank Smythe was a Himalayan Club member.)
746:
617:
713:
648:
468:
380:
74:
923:
766:
2008: The southeast face(6,000 ft) was climbed for the first time by two Japanese climbers,
636:
339:
five years later. However, far higher non-summit altitudes had been reached on the north side of
978:
704:
1951: Mukut Parbat is climbed via the steep northwest ridge by a New Zealand team that included
473:
426:
385:
82:
28:
644:
520:
362:
Kamet (left), Mandir Parbat (second from left), Mana, Deoban, Nilgiri from Khullara Campsite
632:
613:
103:
8:
983:
609:
315:
While attempts to climb Kamet began in 1855, the first ascent was not made until 1931 by
647:, with Alpine guides Alexis Brocherel and Pierre Blanc, and a separate expedition under
296:. Its appearance resembles a giant pyramid topped by a flat summit area with two peaks.
98:
1021:
801:
846:
370:
Kamet (left), Mandir Parbat (second from left), Mana, Deoban, Nilgiri from Kuari Top
816:
594:
526:
289:
273:
214:
847:"High Asia I: The Karakoram, Indian Himalaya and India Himalaya (north of india)"
805:
705:
625:
581:
460:, north-northeast of Kamet; connected to Kamet by Meade's Col. First ascent 1950.
324:
305:
759:
2006: A commemorative 75th anniversary expedition by the Kolkata Section of the
872:
820:
783:
767:
760:
709:
684:
597:
determines the height and location of Kamet, as well as the neighboring peaks
577:
328:
261:
207:
1050:
720:
and Pasang Dawa Lama. Summitters were Riddiford, Cotter and Pasang Dawa Lama.
717:
494:
481:
447:
434:
406:
393:
340:
135:
122:
20:
701:
1950: An Anglo-Swiss expedition ascends Abi Gamin from its North East ridge.
888:
694:
602:
557:
366:
320:
316:
244:
236:
232:
226:
1008:
Meher Mehta (Vice President, Himalayan Club), "The Lure of Kamet," in the
723:
1955: An Indian expedition from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in
732:
728:
677:
667:
659:
358:
293:
277:
196:
687:
attempt Meade's 1913 route and reach a point slightly above Meade's Col.
374:
Kamet is surrounded by three principal neighboring or subsidiary peaks:
724:
336:
285:
598:
463:
422:
347:
1041:
963:
580:, 7,728 m/25,355 ft; however it stands more fully on the high
309:
269:
556:, signifying "huge grandmother of a sacred snow chain". However,
50:
288:. It is the 29th highest mountain in the world. It lies in the
66:
24:
938:"Much-Eyed Face on Kamet Finally Climbed - Climbing magazine"
750:
281:
200:
541:
1034:
H. Adams Carter, "Classification of the Himalaya," in the
535:
1018:
High Asia: An illustrated guide to the 7,000 metre peaks
312:
through dense mountain forest; access is easier today.
564:
that the genesis of the name is from the Tibetan word
745:
1995: Mana Northwest is scaled by members of a joint
532:
658:
1912: Meade, with Alpine guides Franz Lochmatter of
544:
519:
There are varying explanations of the name "Kamet."
538:
529:
353:
1048:
690:1931: The first ascent of Kamet, detailed above.
753:expedition after a tough technical wall climb.
507:, south-southeast of Kamet. First ascent 1937.
979:"Piolets d'Or 2013: Six Nominees, Six Awards"
552:, and claims that it is known to Tibetans as
727:makes the second ascent of Kamet on 6 July.
378:Mukut Parbat, 7,242 m (23,760 ft)
1015:
808:, the major river of the Chamoli district.
841:
839:
837:
811:
170:
868:
866:
864:
365:
357:
976:
916:
834:
800:while the East Kamet Glacier feeds the
1049:
790:
608:1855: German explorers and scientists
970:
861:
804:; both rivers are tributaries of the
587:
13:
1067:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas
1002:
964:"Indian Mountaineering Foundation"
14:
1078:
425:, 7,355 m (24,130 ft),
239:, R.L. Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa
27:character vowel form markup, see
525:
466:, 7,272 m (23,858 ft)
354:Neighboring and subsidiary peaks
169:
162:
49:
977:Cameron, Gwen (12 April 2013).
621:is extraordinary for this date.
514:
956:
930:
907:
904:Himalayan Journal Vol.17, p.42
898:
882:
16:Mountain in Uttarakhand, India
1:
1062:Geography of Chamoli district
913:Mountain World 1956/57, p.143
895:, Hodder & Stoughton 1938
827:
304:Due to its position near the
71:7,756 m (25,446 ft)
1010:Kamet Commemorative Souvenir
87:2,825 m (9,268 ft)
7:
523:gives the pronunciation as
299:
10:
1083:
747:Indo-Tibetan Border Police
624:1877: I. S. Pocock of the
335:until the first ascent of
18:
568:("the lower snows", from
265:
243:
225:
220:
206:
192:
156:
151:
112:
97:
81:
65:
60:
48:
43:
38:
1057:Mountains of Uttarakhand
268:) is the second-highest
107:Mountains of Uttarakhand
1036:American Alpine Journal
924:American Alpine Journal
183:Location in Uttarakhand
812:High altitude research
731:led the party; Jayal,
371:
363:
333:highest summit reached
251:glacier/snow/ice climb
29:Romanization of Hebrew
495:30.88111°N 79.61583°E
448:30.93250°N 79.60250°E
407:30.95222°N 79.57028°E
369:
361:
136:30.92000°N 79.59167°E
1020:. The Mountaineers.
1016:Neate, Jill (1989).
614:Robert Schlagintweit
1042:The Himalayan Index
944:on 29 December 2008
791:Glaciers and rivers
560:writes in his book
491: /
444: /
403: /
132: /
877:Himalayan handbook
819:and his companion
770:and Kei Taniguchi.
655:m/21,000 ft).
618:East India Company
500:30.88111; 79.61583
453:30.93250; 79.60250
412:30.95222; 79.57028
372:
364:
141:30.92000; 79.59167
61:Highest point
23:. For the written
893:Valley of Flowers
802:Dhauliganga River
683:1920: Kellas and
616:, invited by the
471:
383:
255:
254:
177:कामेत पर्वत Kamet
93:
77:
39:कामेत पर्वत Kamet
1074:
1031:
996:
995:
993:
991:
974:
968:
967:
960:
954:
953:
951:
949:
940:. Archived from
934:
928:
920:
914:
911:
905:
902:
896:
886:
880:
870:
859:
858:
856:
854:
843:
817:Alexander Kellas
649:Alexander Kellas
595:Richard Strachey
588:Partial timeline
551:
550:
547:
546:
543:
540:
537:
534:
531:
506:
505:
503:
502:
501:
496:
492:
489:
488:
487:
484:
467:
459:
458:
456:
455:
454:
449:
445:
442:
441:
440:
437:
418:
417:
415:
414:
413:
408:
404:
401:
400:
399:
396:
379:
290:Chamoli District
267:
247:
231:21 June 1931 by
215:Garhwal Himalaya
210:
173:
172:
166:
147:
146:
144:
143:
142:
137:
133:
130:
129:
128:
125:
89:
73:
53:
36:
35:
1082:
1081:
1077:
1076:
1075:
1073:
1072:
1071:
1047:
1046:
1028:
1005:
1003:Further reading
1000:
999:
989:
987:
975:
971:
962:
961:
957:
947:
945:
936:
935:
931:
927:, 1956, p. 142.
921:
917:
912:
908:
903:
899:
887:
883:
879:, Calcutta 1979
871:
862:
852:
850:
845:
844:
835:
830:
814:
806:Alaknanda River
798:Saraswati River
793:
706:Earle Riddiford
626:Survey of India
590:
582:Tibetan Plateau
562:Kamet Conquered
528:
524:
517:
499:
497:
493:
490:
485:
482:
480:
478:
477:
452:
450:
446:
443:
438:
435:
433:
431:
430:
411:
409:
405:
402:
397:
394:
392:
390:
389:
356:
325:R.L. Holdsworth
306:Tibetan Plateau
302:
245:
208:
188:
187:
186:
185:
184:
181:
180:
179:
178:
174:
140:
138:
134:
131:
126:
123:
121:
119:
118:
88:
72:
56:
32:
19:For Kemet, see
17:
12:
11:
5:
1080:
1070:
1069:
1064:
1059:
1045:
1044:
1039:
1032:
1026:
1013:
1004:
1001:
998:
997:
969:
955:
929:
915:
906:
897:
881:
873:Joydeep Sircar
860:
849:. Peaklist.org
832:
831:
829:
826:
821:Henry Morshead
813:
810:
792:
789:
788:
787:
779:
775:
771:
768:Kazuya Hiraide
764:
761:Himalayan Club
757:
754:
743:
740:
736:
721:
710:Edmund Hillary
702:
699:
691:
688:
685:Henry Morshead
681:
674:
671:
664:
656:
652:
641:
629:
622:
606:
589:
586:
578:Gurla Mandhata
572:, "snow", and
516:
513:
509:
508:
461:
420:
355:
352:
343:in the 1920s.
329:Raymond Greene
301:
298:
253:
252:
249:
241:
240:
229:
223:
222:
218:
217:
212:
204:
203:
194:
190:
189:
182:
176:
175:
168:
167:
161:
160:
159:
158:
157:
154:
153:
149:
148:
116:
110:
109:
101:
95:
94:
85:
79:
78:
69:
63:
62:
58:
57:
54:
46:
45:
41:
40:
15:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
1079:
1068:
1065:
1063:
1060:
1058:
1055:
1054:
1052:
1043:
1040:
1037:
1033:
1029:
1027:0-89886-238-8
1023:
1019:
1014:
1011:
1007:
1006:
986:
985:
980:
973:
965:
959:
943:
939:
933:
926:
925:
919:
910:
901:
894:
890:
885:
878:
874:
869:
867:
865:
848:
842:
840:
838:
833:
825:
822:
818:
809:
807:
803:
799:
785:
780:
776:
772:
769:
765:
762:
758:
755:
752:
748:
744:
741:
737:
734:
730:
726:
722:
719:
718:Edmund Cotter
715:
711:
707:
703:
700:
696:
692:
689:
686:
682:
679:
675:
672:
669:
665:
661:
657:
653:
650:
646:
645:Charles Meade
642:
638:
637:Charles Bruce
634:
633:Tom Longstaff
630:
627:
623:
619:
615:
611:
607:
604:
600:
596:
592:
591:
585:
583:
579:
575:
571:
567:
563:
559:
555:
549:
522:
521:Charles Meade
512:
504:
475:
470:
465:
462:
457:
428:
424:
421:
416:
387:
382:
377:
376:
375:
368:
360:
351:
349:
344:
342:
341:Mount Everest
338:
334:
330:
326:
322:
318:
313:
311:
307:
297:
295:
291:
287:
283:
279:
275:
271:
263:
259:
250:
248:
246:Easiest route
242:
238:
234:
230:
228:
224:
219:
216:
213:
211:
205:
202:
198:
195:
191:
165:
155:
150:
145:
117:
115:
111:
108:
105:
102:
100:
96:
92:
86:
84:
80:
76:
70:
68:
64:
59:
52:
47:
42:
37:
34:
30:
26:
22:
21:Ancient Egypt
1035:
1017:
1009:
988:. Retrieved
982:
972:
958:
946:. Retrieved
942:the original
932:
922:
918:
909:
900:
892:
889:Frank Smythe
884:
876:
851:. Retrieved
815:
794:
739:5(c.22500').
695:Frank Smythe
603:Mukut Parbat
573:
569:
565:
561:
558:Frank Smythe
553:
518:
515:Nomenclature
510:
373:
345:
321:Eric Shipton
317:Frank Smythe
314:
303:
257:
256:
237:Eric Shipton
233:Frank Smythe
227:First ascent
209:Parent range
91:Ranked 121st
33:
948:27 December
784:Piolet d'Or
733:Ang Tharkay
729:Nandu Jayal
714:George Lowe
678:World War I
668:Mesopotamia
660:St. Niklaus
643:1910–1911:
605:, and Mana.
498: /
469:Ranked 92nd
451: /
410: /
381:Ranked 97th
294:Uttarakhand
278:Uttarakhand
197:Uttarakhand
139: /
114:Coordinates
75:Ranked 29th
1051:Categories
828:References
725:Darjeeling
708:(leader),
486:79°36′57″E
483:30°52′52″N
474:prominence
439:79°36′09″E
436:30°55′57″N
427:prominence
398:79°34′13″E
395:30°57′08″N
386:prominence
337:Nanda Devi
286:Nanda Devi
276:region of
127:79°35′30″E
124:30°55′12″N
83:Prominence
990:1 January
599:Abi Gamin
476:= 720 m,
464:Mana Peak
423:Abi Gamin
388:= 840 m,
348:Abi Gamin
152:Geography
67:Elevation
984:Alpinist
751:Japanese
670:in 1916.
429:= 217 m
310:Ranikhet
300:Climbing
284:, after
270:mountain
221:Climbing
193:Location
1038:, 1985.
774:skills.
698:23000'.
663:summit.
610:Adolphe
566:Kangmed
554:Kangmen
274:Garhwal
272:in the
99:Listing
1024:
853:28 May
693:1937:
631:1907:
593:1848:
25:Hebrew
640:risk.
282:India
266:कामेत
262:Hindi
258:Kamet
201:India
104:Ultra
55:Kamet
44:Kemet
1022:ISBN
992:2023
950:2008
855:2014
612:and
570:kang
574:med
292:of
1053::
981:.
891:,
875:,
863:^
836:^
716:,
712:,
635:,
601:,
542:eɪ
472:,
384:,
327:,
323:,
319:,
280:,
264::
235:,
199:,
1030:.
994:.
966:.
952:.
857:.
749:–
680:.
548:/
545:t
539:m
536:ʌ
533:k
530:ˈ
527:/
260:(
31:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
