Knowledge

Last

Source đź“ť

414: 426: 402: 38: 357: 46: 438: 189: 626: 849: 200: 386:
often use lasts that are specifically designed to the proportions of individual customers' feet. Made from wood or from various modern materials, they don't need to withstand the pressures of mass production machinery, but they must be able to handle constant tacking and pinning and the wet
104:, and high-density plastics—to withstand contact with wetted leather and the strong forces involved in reshaping it. Since the early 19th century, lasts typically come in pairs to match the separate shapes of the right and left feet. The development of an automated lasting machine by the 313:. Though a last is typically made to approximate the shape of a human foot, the precise shape is tailored to the kind of footwear being made. For example, boot lasts typically hug the instep for a close fit. Modern last shapes are now usually designed with dedicated 328:, and high-density plastics to maintain their shape even after prolonged use in contact with materials like wetted leather and under the mechanical stresses necessary to stretch and shape the material for shoes. Factory lasts must be able to hold the 237:, a single last was used to make shoes for either foot, with the expectation that use would gradually reshape the shoe as needed. The use of such "straights" was particularly important after the rise of both 336:(HMW-HDPE), which can be easily, cheaply, and precisely shaped; which withstand more damage from the tacks before requiring repair or replacement; and which can be 80:. Lasts come in many styles and sizes, depending on the exact job they are designed for. Common variations include simple one-size lasts used for repairing 332:
that position the parts of the shoe and then handle the force of the pullover machines used to bottom the shoe and add the sole. The usual material now is
248:
in the early 19th century that lasts were again generally made and used in matching pairs. Generic one-size lasts are now only used for basic shoe repair.
425: 306: 413: 301:. Lasts come in many styles and sizes, depending on the exact job they are designed for. Common variations include simple uniform lasts for 260: 641: 241: 225:—have been found to have shaped some footwear separately for the right and left foot, this distinction was mostly lost following the 17: 686: 289:
in 1883. This instantly centralized production, increased production by as much as 14 times, improved quality, and halved prices.
636: 340:
once they finally do wear out entirely. Wooden lasts are now used only for repair work and bespoke shoemaking, particularly in
830: 770: 491: 259:
arranged around central workshops but each step of production still required skilled labor. Attempts at mechanization in
597: 475: 731: 333: 501: 279: 485: 401: 668: 651: 244:
made shoemaking more complicated than previously. It was not until the beginning of industrial production and
437: 704: 142: 853: 212: 607: 751: 314: 252: 31: 866: 444: 282: 264: 192: 108: 8: 882: 860: 694: 226: 204: 105: 806: 794: 256: 203:
Matzeliger's lasting machine, complex enough the patent office had to send an agent to
116: 783:"Mechanization and Work in the American Shoe Industry: Lynn, Massachusetts, 1852–1883" 826: 766: 727: 798: 582: 369: 310: 234: 154: 130: 93: 37: 275:
to suit it for work in leather took until 1850 and the major breakthrough was the
820: 760: 717: 329: 268: 172: 163: 112: 89: 669:"History of Shoemaking in Britain—Napoleonic Wars and the Industrial Revolution" 361: 272: 271:
were partial and proved uneconomical after demobilization. Improvements to the
245: 230: 138: 802: 387:
environment associated with stretching and shaping materials such as leather.
115:, immediately improving quality, halving prices, and eliminating the previous 876: 632: 345: 286: 675:, Shugborough: Staffordshire County Museum, 9 December 2010, archived from 658:, Shugborough: Staffordshire County Museum, 9 December 2010, archived from 219: 356: 45: 365: 302: 85: 81: 810: 782: 743: 383: 298: 238: 222: 215: 188: 73: 69: 65: 458: 337: 325: 101: 676: 659: 373: 321: 276: 199: 150: 97: 255:, shoe production was optimized by elaborate division of labor in 54: 50: 848: 341: 719:
Dictionnaire Etymologique des Anglicismes et des Américanismes
377: 546: 77: 673:
Heart & Sole: Boot and Shoe Making in Staffordshire
656:
Heart & Sole: Boot and Shoe Making in Staffordshire
724:
Etymological Dictionary of Anglicisms and Americanisms
558: 524: 522: 233:. Upon the return of commercial shoemaking during the 652:"History of Shoemaking in Britain—Tudors and Stuarts" 631: 588: 570: 519: 758: 603: 88:, custom-purpose mechanized lasts used in modern 874: 702: 552: 149:and intending a track, a trace, or a footprint. 534: 507: 92:, and custom-made lasts used in the making of 703:Cutter, William Richard; et al. (2021), 157: 645:(11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. 175: 166: 762:Handbook of Footwear Design and Manufacture 684: 564: 822:From Proto-Indo-European to Proto-Germanic 297:A last is a mechanical form shaped like a 49:Wooden lasts in a shoemaker's workshop in 780: 759:Luximon, Ameersing; et al. (2013). 741: 576: 528: 355: 198: 187: 111:in the 1880s was a major development in 44: 36: 27:Mechanical form shaped like a human foot 781:Mulligan, William H. Jr. (March 1981). 693:, Adscape International, archived from 14: 875: 305:, custom-purpose mechanized lasts for 818: 797:: Cambridge University Press: 59–63. 715: 497: 481: 685:Chamberlain, Gaius (23 March 2012), 667: 650: 540: 513: 825:. Oxford: Oxford University Press. 96:. Lasts are made of firm materials— 64:is a mechanical form shaped like a 24: 25: 894: 842: 334:high-density polyethylene plastic 76:in the manufacture and repair of 847: 624: 436: 424: 412: 400: 119:surrounding shoemaking centers. 787:The Journal of Economic History 616: 431:Replaceable metal last on stand 351: 320:Lasts are typically made from 285:'s automated lasting machine, 13: 1: 869:(shoemakingcoursesonline.com) 464: 691:Black Inventor Online Museum 469: 309:, and custom-made lasts for 137:is thought to derive from a 7: 452: 10: 899: 390: 183: 29: 819:Ringe, Donald A. (2017). 803:10.1017/S0022050700042753 744:"No. 522: Jan Matzeliger" 742:Lienhard, Jan H. (2000), 716:Kurtz, Jean-Paul (2014). 292: 18:Automatic lasting machine 748:Engines of Our Ingenuity 726:]. Books on Demand. 604:Luximon & al. (2013) 642:Encyclopædia Britannica 553:Cutter & al. (2021) 124: 41:A pair of wooden lasts. 863:(lastmakingschool.com) 407:A pair of wooden lasts 380: 360:The personal lasts of 208: 207:to see it in operation 196: 176: 167: 158: 57: 42: 861:History of lastmaking 856:at Wikimedia Commons 752:University of Houston 705:"John Brooks Nichols" 419:Tripartite metal last 359: 253:Industrial Revolution 239:male and female heels 202: 191: 48: 40: 32:Last (disambiguation) 867:What is a shoe last? 765:. Elsevier Science. 445:Marikina Shoe Museum 283:Jan Ernst Matzeliger 265:Marc Isambard Brunel 193:Jan Ernst Matzeliger 109:Jan Ernst Matzeliger 30:For other uses, see 257:putting-out systems 242:in the 17th century 227:barbarian invasions 117:putting-out systems 106:Surinamese-American 565:Chamberlain (2012) 381: 209: 197: 58: 43: 852:Media related to 832:978-0-19-879258-1 772:978-0-85709-879-5 592:, 11th ed. (1911) 16:(Redirected from 890: 851: 836: 814: 776: 754: 737: 711: 698: 687:"Jan Matzeliger" 680: 663: 646: 630: 628: 627: 611: 601: 595: 586: 580: 574: 568: 562: 556: 550: 544: 538: 532: 526: 517: 511: 505: 495: 489: 479: 440: 428: 416: 404: 370:Ferragamo Museum 311:bespoke footwear 235:High Middle Ages 179: 170: 161: 94:bespoke footwear 68:. It is used by 21: 898: 897: 893: 892: 891: 889: 888: 887: 873: 872: 845: 840: 833: 773: 734: 635:, ed. (1911). " 625: 623: 619: 614: 602: 598: 587: 583: 577:Lienhard (2000) 575: 571: 563: 559: 551: 547: 539: 535: 529:Mulligan (1981) 527: 520: 512: 508: 496: 492: 480: 476: 472: 467: 455: 448: 441: 432: 429: 420: 417: 408: 405: 393: 354: 295: 269:Napoleonic Wars 186: 127: 113:shoe production 90:mass production 35: 28: 23: 22: 15: 12: 11: 5: 896: 886: 885: 871: 870: 864: 844: 843:External links 841: 839: 838: 831: 816: 778: 771: 756: 739: 732: 713: 700: 682: 665: 648: 633:Chisholm, Hugh 620: 618: 615: 613: 612: 596: 581: 569: 557: 545: 533: 518: 506: 490: 473: 471: 468: 466: 463: 462: 461: 454: 451: 450: 449: 443:Wooden lasts ( 442: 435: 433: 430: 423: 421: 418: 411: 409: 406: 399: 397: 392: 389: 362:Audrey Hepburn 353: 350: 307:shoe factories 294: 291: 273:sewing machine 251:Well into the 246:mass marketing 231:late Antiquity 185: 182: 139:Proto-Germanic 126: 123: 26: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 895: 884: 881: 880: 878: 868: 865: 862: 859: 858: 857: 855: 850: 834: 828: 824: 823: 817: 812: 808: 804: 800: 796: 792: 788: 784: 779: 774: 768: 764: 763: 757: 753: 749: 745: 740: 735: 733:9782322027385 729: 725: 721: 720: 714: 710: 706: 701: 697:on 2012-02-19 696: 692: 688: 683: 679:on 2014-02-02 678: 674: 670: 666: 662:on 2014-02-19 661: 657: 653: 649: 644: 643: 638: 634: 622: 621: 609: 605: 600: 593: 591: 585: 578: 573: 566: 561: 554: 549: 542: 537: 530: 525: 523: 515: 510: 503: 499: 494: 487: 483: 478: 474: 460: 457: 456: 446: 439: 434: 427: 422: 415: 410: 403: 398: 395: 394: 388: 385: 379: 375: 371: 367: 363: 358: 349: 347: 346:North America 343: 339: 335: 331: 330:lasting tacks 327: 323: 318: 316: 312: 308: 304: 300: 290: 288: 284: 281: 278: 274: 270: 266: 262: 258: 254: 249: 247: 243: 240: 236: 232: 228: 224: 221: 217: 214: 206: 201: 194: 190: 181: 178: 174: 169: 165: 160: 156: 152: 148: 144: 143:reconstructed 140: 136: 132: 122: 120: 118: 114: 110: 107: 103: 99: 95: 91: 87: 83: 79: 75: 71: 67: 63: 56: 52: 47: 39: 33: 19: 846: 821: 790: 786: 761: 747: 723: 718: 708: 695:the original 690: 677:the original 672: 660:the original 655: 640: 617:Bibliography 599: 589: 584: 572: 560: 548: 536: 509: 498:Kurtz (2014) 493: 482:Ringe (2017) 477: 382: 352:Custom lasts 319: 315:CAD software 296: 250: 210: 146: 134: 128: 121: 61: 59: 750:, Houston: 541:SCM (2010b) 514:SCM (2010a) 384:Cordwainers 366:Ava Gardner 303:shoe repair 267:during the 216:cordwainers 74:cordwainers 883:Shoemaking 709:Fiddlebase 606:, p.  590:Enc. Brit. 500:, p.  484:, p.  465:References 299:human foot 277:Surinamese 223:shoemakers 70:shoemakers 66:human foot 795:Cambridge 470:Citations 459:Shoe size 326:cast iron 322:hardwoods 280:immigrant 211:Although 102:cast iron 98:hardwoods 877:Category 453:See also 374:Florence 338:recycled 287:patented 153:include 151:Cognates 811:2120894 391:Gallery 368:at the 261:Britain 220:bespoke 195:in 1885 184:History 177:Leisten 155:Swedish 147:laistaz 131:English 55:Germany 51:Hamburg 829:  809:  769:  730:  629:  342:Europe 293:Design 173:German 171:, and 164:Danish 854:Lasts 807:JSTOR 793:(1). 722:[ 396:Lasts 378:Italy 213:Roman 168:læste 141:term 133:word 86:heels 82:soles 78:shoes 827:ISBN 767:ISBN 728:ISBN 637:Last 502:1168 364:and 344:and 205:Lynn 159:läst 145:as * 135:last 129:The 125:Name 84:and 72:and 62:last 799:doi 639:". 608:177 486:284 372:in 263:by 229:in 879:: 805:. 791:41 789:. 785:. 746:, 707:, 689:, 671:, 654:, 521:^ 376:, 348:. 324:, 317:. 180:. 162:, 100:, 60:A 53:, 837:. 835:. 815:. 813:. 801:: 777:. 775:. 755:. 738:. 736:. 712:. 699:. 681:. 664:. 647:. 610:. 594:. 579:. 567:. 555:. 543:. 531:. 516:. 504:. 488:. 447:) 218:— 34:. 20:)

Index

Automatic lasting machine
Last (disambiguation)


Hamburg
Germany
human foot
shoemakers
cordwainers
shoes
soles
heels
mass production
bespoke footwear
hardwoods
cast iron
Surinamese-American
Jan Ernst Matzeliger
shoe production
putting-out systems
English
Proto-Germanic
reconstructed
Cognates
Swedish
Danish
German

Jan Ernst Matzeliger

Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.

↑