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Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

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Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, showing the East Buttress (centre), The Pinnacle (triangle on top left of East Buttress), West Buttress (diagonal-striped face right of East Buttress), and Far West Buttress (opposite diagonal-striped right of West
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areas in Britain, and has been called "The shrine of British climbing", and a "crucible for the development of most of the finest climbers in Britain and the scene of many of their finest achievements".
353:. The cliff's circa 300 metres (980 ft) in height and mountain elevation, combined with the steepness and quality of rock, gives it the feel of a face on an alpine mountain. 373:, both botanists looking for alpine plants. However, it was not until the 1920s, that British rock climbers began to scale the main buttresses, starting with the 779: 114: 512:
While the cliff contains routes of all difficulties, few other crags in Britain contain such a concentration of routes above the extreme
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in 1984), who were striving to free up the main face of the Great Wall (or Master's Wall), in the middle of the
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Since these early ascents, the cliff came to attract leading British rock climbers of every era including:
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During the mid-1980s, it became the focus of the leading British rock climbers of the day, particularly
904: 618: 691: 601: 509:, was considered one of the most dangerous and difficult traditional rock climbs in the world. 169: 164: 894: 366: 513: 506: 457: 402: 386: 317: 149: 8: 813: 487: 425: 899: 206: 844: 759: 584: 570: 556: 477: 176: 612: 370: 606: 304: 186: 100: 95: 888: 472: 394: 129: 116: 784: 496: 482: 449: 409: 308:, translates as the "black cliff of the black height"), is a north-facing 501: 378: 329:
Cloggy is a north-facing mountain crag that requires a long walk-in from
235: 30: 330: 218: 88: 74: 809:"Johnny Dawes and the Story of Indian Face: the UK's First E9 Climb" 581:
The Black Cliff: The history of rock climbing on Clogwyn du'r Arddu
333:. The cliff is broken into several large buttresses, most notably: 309: 191: 316:
mountain. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu is considered to be one of the best
313: 211: 78: 583:(Peter Crew, Jack Soper, Ken Wilson), 1971, Kaye & Ward 569:(Mark Reeves, Jack Geldard, Mark Glaister), 2013, Rockfax. 780:"25 October 1986: Johnny Dawes climbs the Indian Face" 181:
rock grades of Diff to E9; winter grade of II to VIII
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The first recorded climb was the 1798 ascent of the
886: 838: 312:set of cliffs located on the northern flank of 54: 530:Johnny Dawes & The story of Indian Face 806: 499:eventually freed the route and called it 753: 887: 615:, a slate climbing area near Llanberis 687:"CLOGWYN DU'R ARDDU: THE BLACK CLIFF" 680: 678: 676: 674: 648: 646: 644: 642: 640: 638: 636: 634: 303: 841:The Black Cliff (Clogwyn Du'r Arddu) 749: 747: 720: 718: 716: 714: 772: 609:, a mountain crag at Llanberis pass 356: 13: 832: 800: 724: 671: 631: 14: 936: 858: 744: 711: 684: 223:707 metres (2,320 ft) a.s.l. 527:Hughes, Alun (director) (2006). 53: 46: 29: 555:(Jack Geldard), 2010, Rockfax. 546: 519: 305:[ˈklɔɡwɨ̞nˈdɨːrˈarðɨ̞] 159:up to 300 metres (980 ft) 62:Location of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 16:Cliff and climbing area, Wales 1: 727:"Clogwyn Du'r Arddu - Cloggy" 624: 533:(Motion picture). Hughes Prod 920:Rock formations of Snowdonia 839:Crew; Soper; Wilson (1971). 324: 7: 875:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) 865:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) 595: 10: 941: 915:Rock formations of Gwynedd 456:1951, with J. Brown), and 401:, 5 pitches 126-metres at 807:Editorial (3 June 2020). 464:1931 with C. Kirkus, and 385:, 4 pitches 83-metres at 227: 217: 205: 197: 185: 175: 163: 155: 145: 106: 94: 84: 70: 41: 28: 23: 619:History of rock climbing 925:Climbing areas of Wales 754:Williams, Paul (1989). 692:American Alpine Journal 602:Clogwyn railway station 505:, which at a grade of 420:1931 with J. Edwards, 367:Peter Bailey Williams 654:"Clogwyn Du'r Arddu" 553:North Wales Classics 458:John Menlove Edwards 318:traditional climbing 301:Welsh pronunciation: 150:Traditional climbing 910:Cliffs of Snowdonia 488:Margins of the Mind 126: /  788:. 22 December 2011 758:. Climbers' Club. 756:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 731:PlanetMountain.com 725:Hobley, Nicholas. 567:North Wales Climbs 297:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 170:mostly multi-pitch 130:53.0792°N 4.0939°W 24:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 905:Cliffs of Gwynedd 881:Crag Guide (2022) 871:Crag Guide (2022) 575:978-1-873341-82-7 561:978-1-873341-17-9 351:Far West Buttress 294: 293: 932: 854: 826: 825: 823: 821: 804: 798: 797: 795: 793: 776: 770: 769: 751: 742: 741: 739: 737: 722: 709: 708: 706: 704: 682: 669: 668: 666: 664: 650: 542: 540: 538: 399:Longland's Climb 357:Climbing history 341:(lies above the 307: 302: 198:Quantity of rock 141: 140: 138: 137: 136: 135:53.0792; -4.0939 131: 127: 124: 123: 122: 119: 57: 56: 50: 33: 21: 20: 940: 939: 935: 934: 933: 931: 930: 929: 885: 884: 861: 851: 835: 833:Further reading 830: 829: 819: 817: 805: 801: 791: 789: 778: 777: 773: 766: 752: 745: 735: 733: 723: 712: 702: 700: 683: 672: 662: 660: 652: 651: 632: 627: 613:Dinorwic quarry 598: 549: 536: 534: 526: 522: 371:William Bingley 363:Eastern Terrace 359: 327: 300: 290: 134: 132: 128: 125: 120: 117: 115: 113: 112: 66: 65: 64: 63: 60: 59: 58: 37: 17: 12: 11: 5: 938: 928: 927: 922: 917: 912: 907: 902: 897: 883: 882: 879:PlanetMountain 872: 860: 859:External links 857: 856: 855: 849: 834: 831: 828: 827: 799: 771: 764: 743: 710: 670: 658:UKClimbing.com 629: 628: 626: 623: 622: 621: 616: 610: 607:Dinas Cromlech 604: 597: 594: 593: 592: 589:978-0718207908 578: 564: 548: 545: 544: 543: 521: 518: 383:Pigott's Climb 358: 355: 326: 323: 292: 291: 289: 288: 282: 276: 270: 264: 258: 252: 246: 240: 231: 229: 228:Classic climbs 225: 224: 221: 215: 214: 209: 203: 202: 199: 195: 194: 189: 183: 182: 179: 173: 172: 167: 161: 160: 157: 153: 152: 147: 143: 142: 110: 104: 103: 101:Snowdon Massif 98: 92: 91: 86: 82: 81: 72: 68: 67: 61: 52: 51: 45: 44: 43: 42: 39: 38: 34: 26: 25: 15: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 937: 926: 923: 921: 918: 916: 913: 911: 908: 906: 903: 901: 898: 896: 893: 892: 890: 880: 876: 873: 870: 866: 863: 862: 852: 850:0-7182-0790-4 846: 843:. Kaye Ward. 842: 837: 836: 816: 815: 810: 803: 787: 786: 781: 775: 767: 765:0-901601-43-8 761: 757: 750: 748: 732: 728: 721: 719: 717: 715: 698: 694: 693: 688: 685:Rubin, Alan. 681: 679: 677: 675: 659: 655: 649: 647: 645: 643: 641: 639: 637: 635: 630: 620: 617: 614: 611: 608: 605: 603: 600: 599: 590: 586: 582: 579: 576: 572: 568: 565: 562: 558: 554: 551: 550: 532: 531: 525:Documentary: 524: 523: 517: 515: 510: 508: 504: 503: 498: 494: 493:East Buttress 490: 489: 484: 480: 479: 478:Master's Wall 474: 473:Jerry Moffatt 469: 467: 463: 462:Chimney Route 459: 455: 451: 447: 443: 439: 435: 431: 427: 423: 422:Curving Crack 419: 418:Chimney Route 415: 411: 406: 404: 400: 396: 395:Jack Longland 392: 391:West Buttress 388: 384: 380: 376: 375:East Buttress 372: 368: 364: 354: 352: 348: 347:West Buttress 344: 343:East Buttress 340: 336: 335:East Buttress 332: 322: 319: 315: 311: 306: 298: 286: 283: 280: 277: 274: 271: 268: 265: 262: 259: 256: 253: 250: 247: 244: 241: 238: 237: 233: 232: 230: 226: 222: 220: 216: 213: 210: 208: 204: 200: 196: 193: 190: 188: 184: 180: 178: 174: 171: 168: 166: 162: 158: 154: 151: 148: 146:Climbing type 144: 139: 111: 109: 105: 102: 99: 97: 93: 90: 87: 83: 80: 76: 73: 69: 49: 40: 32: 27: 22: 19: 895:Betws Garmon 878: 868: 840: 818:. Retrieved 812: 802: 790:. Retrieved 785:The Guardian 783: 774: 755: 734:. Retrieved 730: 701:. Retrieved 696: 690: 661:. Retrieved 657: 580: 566: 552: 547:Bibliography 535:. Retrieved 529: 511: 500: 497:Johnny Dawes 492: 486: 483:John Redhead 476: 470: 465: 461: 453: 450:Don Whillans 445: 441: 437: 433: 429: 421: 417: 413: 410:Colin Kirkus 407: 398: 390: 382: 374: 362: 360: 350: 346: 342: 339:The Pinnacle 338: 334: 328: 296: 295: 284: 278: 272: 266: 260: 254: 248: 242: 234: 207:Cliff aspect 85:Nearest city 18: 520:Filmography 502:Indian Face 495:. In 1986, 485:(who freed 475:(who freed 430:The Boulder 389:), and the 379:Fred Pigott 236:Indian Face 201:+215 routes 133: / 108:Coordinates 889:Categories 869:UKClimbing 736:12 January 703:15 January 663:10 January 625:References 481:in 1983), 438:The Corner 416:1930, and 414:Great Slab 285:Great Slab 261:White Slab 249:Great Wall 118:53°04′45″N 900:Llanberis 820:9 January 792:9 January 699:(47): 534 537:9 January 426:Joe Brown 393:in 1928 ( 377:in 1927 ( 331:Llanberis 325:Structure 279:Great-Bow 243:Womb Bits 219:Elevation 187:Rock type 121:4°05′38″W 89:Llanberis 75:Snowdonia 36:Buttress) 814:Climbing 596:See also 516:-grade. 466:Bow Slab 446:November 434:Llithrig 310:rhyolite 281:(HVS 5a) 275:(E1 5c), 269:(E2 5c), 263:(E2 5c), 257:(E4 6a), 251:(E4 6a), 245:(E5 6c), 239:(E9 6c), 192:Rhyolite 71:Location 468:1941). 448:1957), 424:1932), 397:, with 314:Snowdon 287:(VS 4c) 273:Llitrig 255:The Axe 177:Ratings 165:Pitches 847:  762:  587:  573:  559:  454:Vember 444:1952, 442:Shrike 440:1952, 436:1952, 432:1951, 387:HVS 5a 349:, and 267:Shrike 156:Height 507:E9 6c 403:VS 4c 381:with 212:North 96:Range 79:Wales 845:ISBN 822:2022 794:2022 760:ISBN 738:2022 705:2022 665:2022 585:ISBN 571:ISBN 557:ISBN 539:2022 369:and 405:). 365:by 345:), 891:: 877:, 867:, 811:. 782:. 746:^ 729:. 713:^ 697:18 695:. 689:. 673:^ 656:. 633:^ 514:E7 337:, 77:, 853:. 824:. 796:. 768:. 740:. 707:. 667:. 591:. 577:. 563:. 541:. 460:( 452:( 428:( 412:( 299:(

Index


Map showing the location of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
Snowdonia
Wales
Llanberis
Range
Snowdon Massif
Coordinates
53°04′45″N 4°05′38″W / 53.0792°N 4.0939°W / 53.0792; -4.0939
Traditional climbing
Pitches
mostly multi-pitch
Ratings
Rock type
Rhyolite
Cliff aspect
North
Elevation
Indian Face
[ˈklɔɡwɨ̞nˈdɨːrˈarðɨ̞]
rhyolite
Snowdon
traditional climbing
Llanberis
Peter Bailey Williams
William Bingley
Fred Pigott
HVS 5a
Jack Longland
VS 4c

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