414:
471:
29:
126:
314:
505:
359:
394:
456:
486:
375:
437:
413:
336:
has the appearance in paintings of a round-topped shield tapering to a point, at an oblique angle. In the 13th century this shield shape is no longer seen, and the female form returns to being that of the now modified male one for the last phase of the empire. Empresses also wore a wide jewelled "superhumeral" collar in matching styles to the
335:
At first empresses wore essentially the same form as emperors, but from around the 9th century a new style appears. The hanging end was longer and much broader, and after reaching down to the ankles turned upwards to be folded over the left forearm, or fastened or tucked into the belt. The wide end
70:) was a long, narrow and embroidered cloth, which was wrapped around the torso and dropped over the left hand. It was one of the most important and distinctive parts of the most formal and ceremonial type of imperial
504:
470:
93:
dictated the rest of the imperial outfit. The slightly less formal, and more secular, imperial costume, which was also that normally worn by high officials on official occasions, was the
393:
340:, and perhaps attached to it. This was the distinctive garment of empresses and also worn on other occasions, and copied by other upper-class women; the modified male
169:
was completely abandoned, after a period when both designs are seen. By the 14th century the strip down the front may have been sewn onto the tunic beneath, and the
259:-costume was not worn at the coronation of the Emperor, although he was given it in the course of the ceremony, and when crowned by Christ in art always wears it.
374:
485:
358:
436:
753:
684:
663:
455:
430:(the coat on top), something which was never the practice, the wrapping of the loros beneath is carved accurately, 1143 AD.
732:
724:
Catalogue of the
Byzantine Coins in the Dumbarton Oaks Collection and in the Whittemore Collection, Volume 3, Part I
772:
765:
Reconstructing the
Reality of Images: Byzantine Material Culture and Religious Iconography (11th–15th Centuries
659:
476:
282:
255:, which spread to medieval art in the West, as they were regarded as the high officials of God. It seems the
28:
219:
125:
275:
210:
was an integral part of imperial portraiture. In earlier periods it was worn in triumphal processions.
791:
313:
461:
519:
230:
74:, worn only by the Imperial family and a few of the most senior officials. It developed out of the
182:
60:
8:
492:
271:
677:
Masterpieces of the
Secular Treasury (A Brief Guide to the Kunsthistorisches Museum 2)
768:
749:
728:
680:
655:
442:
422:. Although the relief is anachronistic and the emperor wears simultaneously both the
294:
266:
began to be shown worn in imperial portraits of other
Orthodox rulers, such those of
162:
301:; misinterpretation caused later generations to wear it in the manner of a priest's
129:
A mid-10th century ivory relief showing a
Byzantine emperor wearing the traditional
679:. Milan and Vienna: Skira editore and Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna. p. 70.
496:
419:
302:
290:
85:. There were different male and female versions. Byzantine sources speak of the "
743:
722:
380:
327:
318:
244:
195:
71:
37:
235:
51:
33:
785:
400:
252:
240:
217:
was also worn at Easter by the "twelve dignitaries", holders of the ranks of
199:
190:
161:
had a loop that went round the neck and was pulled on over the head. By the
142:
82:
206:, sometimes other feasts, and to receive important foreign visitors, the
239:
during the ceremonies of their promotion. It was said to symbolize the
225:
149:
was wrapped around the torso in a specific way, following the ancient
248:
203:
279:
181:
was the most important part of the imperial costume up until the
95:
267:
76:
20:
654:, 8, 2004, Metropolitan Museum of Art/Yale University Press,
145:(r. 685–695 and 705–711). Until the 10th century, the male
479:, 1355–56, portrait of the Bulgarian tsar and his family
514:
of the Holy Roman Empire, a
Western adaptation of the
403:
showing emperor
Romanos wearing an accurate modified
331:) in her right and a cross scepter in her left hand
153:. However, increasingly from the 11th century, the
65:
40:(1074–81) with the old male and new female styles
783:
664:Fully online from the Metropolitan Museum of Art
198:, worn only in exceptional occasions such as on
188:Although in practice it was, according to the
641:Parani, 14, 24; the point is somewhat unclear
16:Ceremonial type of imperial Byzantine costume
305:, although it was too long for the purpose.
112:
285:, the tsar and his son both wear it. The
177:instead. Despite the modifications, the
745:Byzantine Court Culture from 829 to 1204
720:
312:
124:
27:
741:
784:
762:
674:
652:Byzantium, Faith and Power (1261–1557)
387:though not accurately wrapped, 945 AD
243:of Christ, with the officials as the
542:Parani, 25-27 on the female version
13:
748:. Washington, DC: Dumbarton Oaks.
727:. Washington, DC: Dumbarton Oaks.
117:), a long silk robe, and a tunic.
14:
803:
137:The first representations of the
503:
484:
469:
454:
435:
412:
392:
373:
357:
325:, holding a globe with a cross (
289:, a 14th-century garment in the
702:
693:
668:
644:
635:
626:
617:
157:acquired a new design. The new
141:are on coins from the reign of
99:costume. Underneath either the
675:Seipel, Wilfried, ed. (2008).
608:
599:
590:
581:
572:
563:
554:
545:
536:
477:Gospels of Tsar Ivan Alexander
344:created much the same effect.
283:Gospels of Tsar Ivan Alexander
1:
714:
297:, was made to be worn like a
7:
364:A Roman consul wearing the
276:Armenian Kingdom of Cilicia
66:
10:
808:
491:A fresco of Georgian King
347:
262:From the 13th century the
133:in a very accurate carving
18:
763:Parani, Maria G. (2003).
721:Grierson, Philip (1973).
462:Andronikos II Palaiologos
308:
113:
55:
742:Maguire, Henry (2004) .
530:
520:Kunsthistorisches Museum
383:wearing the traditional
231:Eparch of Constantinople
19:Not to be confused with
650:Evans, Helen C. (ed.),
173:may have been called a
120:
332:
134:
41:
445:wearing the modified
407:, probably 945–949 AD
316:
247:. It is also worn by
185:in the 15th century.
128:
31:
495:(r. 1089–1125) from
229:, as well as by the
32:Emperor and Empress
518:; preserved in the
366:trabea triumphalis
333:
135:
42:
792:Byzantine regalia
767:. Leiden: Brill.
755:978-0-88402-308-1
686:978-3-85497-123-8
632:Parani, 20, notes
443:Manuel I Komnenos
295:Holy Roman Empire
183:end of the empire
163:Komnenian dynasty
72:Byzantine costume
64:
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497:Gelati Monastery
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473:
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420:John II Komnenos
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291:Imperial Regalia
116:
115:
89:costume" as the
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381:Constantine VII
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245:Twelve Apostles
196:Constantine VII
123:
38:Maria of Alania
24:
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12:
11:
5:
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510:Detail of the
509:
502:
500:
490:
483:
481:
475:
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464:, r. 1272–1328
460:
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451:
449:, 12th century
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236:zoste patrikia
122:
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107:were worn the
34:Nicephorus III
15:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
804:
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734:9780884020455
730:
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719:
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708:Parani, 25-26
705:
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638:
629:
623:Parani, 23-24
620:
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605:Parani, 23-24
602:
596:Parani, 22-23
593:
584:
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566:
560:Grierson, 119
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551:Parani, 11-18
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401:Romanos Ivory
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319:empress Irene
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253:Byzantine art
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241:winding-sheet
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200:Easter Sunday
197:
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191:De Ceremoniis
186:
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83:Roman consuls
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30:
26:
22:
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143:Justinian II
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94:
90:
86:
75:
46:
45:
43:
25:
79:triumphalis
774:9004124624
715:References
699:Parani, 25
660:1588391140
614:Parani, 35
587:Parani, 20
578:Parani, 19
569:Parani, 18
321:wearing a
278:. In the
249:archangels
226:anthypatos
165:, the old
114:διβητήσιον
109:divetesion
522:in Vienna
280:Bulgarian
220:magistros
204:Pentecost
61:romanized
786:Category
493:David IV
426:and the
368:, 517 AD
317:Crowned
274:and the
233:and the
428:chlamys
348:Gallery
328:sphaira
293:of the
272:Georgia
175:diadema
105:chlamys
103:or the
96:chlamys
81:of the
63::
771:
752:
731:
683:
658:
309:Female
268:Serbia
151:trabea
77:trabea
21:Louros
531:Notes
516:loros
512:Stola
447:loros
424:loros
405:loros
385:loros
342:loros
338:loros
323:loros
303:stole
299:loros
287:Stola
264:loros
257:loros
215:loros
208:loros
179:loros
171:loros
167:loros
159:loros
155:loros
147:loros
139:loros
131:loros
101:loros
91:loros
87:loros
67:lôros
56:λῶρος
52:Greek
47:loros
769:ISBN
750:ISBN
729:ISBN
681:ISBN
656:ISBN
399:The
223:and
213:The
121:Male
44:The
36:and
251:in
194:by
788::
662:,
270:,
202:,
58:,
54::
777:.
758:.
737:.
689:.
111:(
50:(
23:.
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