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Highest unclimbed mountain

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180:, in Tibet, sitting at 3,650 m (11,980 ft) has been permanently occupied since the 7th century and many smaller settlements across the Greater Himalaya thrive at elevations exceeding 4,000 m (13,000 ft). With humans living at high elevations for many millennia, nearby peaks to such settlements may or may not have been summited at some point in the past. However, many regions away from settlements may never have been explored, especially since some high peaks in the 213: 132: 316:, have no record of successful ascents. The unclimbed status of each of these peaks is difficult to confirm, although Mount Siple in particular is remote, uninhabited (and without any nearby habitation), and seldom visited. The most recent summiting of a formerly unclimbed most prominent mountain (with a prominence of 12,169 ft, 3,709 m) was on June 25, 2014 when Petter Bjørstad and four others climbed Mount Boising in the 31: 256: 243:. In Bhutan, the climbing of mountains higher than 6,000 m (20,000 ft) has been prohibited since 1994. The rationale for this prohibition is based on local customs that consider this and similar peaks to be the sacred homes of protective deities and spirits, and the lack of high-altitude rescue resources from any locale closer than 117:
Additionally, since climbing tall mountains is usually a major undertaking and climbers are attracted to climbing the tallest ones, lower peaks (even if they are very formidable) simply get less attention, and instead the taller peaks are summited again, by parties following a new route, or perhaps
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to the top. Determining which unclimbed peak is highest is often a matter of controversy. In some parts of the world, surveying and mapping are still unreliable. There are no comprehensive records of the routes of explorers, mountaineers, and local inhabitants. In some cases, even modern ascents by
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It is unclear which is the highest unclimbed non-prohibited mountain. While some recognize only peaks with 100 m (330 ft) of topographical prominence as individual summits, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation uses a 30 m (98 ft) cutoff for determining
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It can be difficult sometimes to determine whether or not a mountain peak has been fully summited. Long before modern mountaineering commenced in the middle of the 19th century, evidence indicates that people did indeed travel up to the summits or near to the summits of major mountain peaks.
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Many mountains, in addition to their highest point or peak, also have subpeaks. There is no universally accepted way of deciding when a subpeak is distinct enough to be classified as a mountain in its own right; therefore, any list of the world's mountains is subject to dispute. The
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have shown that humans traveled up to 6,739 m (22,110 ft) in prehistoric times. Permanent settlements as high as 4,500 m (14,800 ft) were established as far back as 12,000 years ago in the Andes. In the Greater Himalaya region,
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Unclimbed candidates with high topographic prominence are by definition independent mountains, but some have relatively modest elevations. With such peaks, there is a greater possibility of undocumented ascents, perhaps occurring long ago.
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in the world that has not been fully summited. Gangkhar Puensum has been off limits to climbers since 1994 when Bhutan prohibited all mountaineering above 6,000 m (20,000 ft) due to spiritual/religious beliefs.
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larger parties have been poorly documented and, with no universally recognized listing, the best that can be achieved in determining the world's highest unclimbed peaks is somewhat speculative. Most sources indicate that
247:. The prohibition was further expanded in 2003 when mountaineering of any kind was disallowed entirely within Bhutan. Gangkhar Puensum will likely remain unclimbed so long as the government of Bhutan prohibits it. 195:
the first climbers of the peak agreed to honor the wishes of locals and not set foot on the topmost part of the mountain. Succeeding mountaineering parties may (or may not) have followed this tradition. Similarly,
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Figure 1. Vertical arrows show the topographic prominence of three peaks on an island. The dashed horizontal lines show the lowest contours that do not encircle higher peaks. Curved arrows point from a peak to its
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of each apex and the general topography of the area both come into consideration when determining their status. Although objective criteria have been proposed, there is no widely agreed standard. In 1994, the
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whose summits were at least 4,000 m (13,000 ft) above sea level and with at least 30 m (98 ft) of topographic prominence over any adjacent
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While Jurgalski listed this peak, also known as Masherbrum Far West, as unclimbed in August 2018, there is a report of a first ascent in September 1988.
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had only one summit attempt back in 1957 when climbers came within 150 m (490 ft) of the summit; Nepal then banned future attempts.
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Jurgalski considers the unclimbed peak known as "Apsarasis III" just higher than "Apsarasis I" (7241 m), which was climbed in 1976.
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The following peaks, with a minimum prominence of 150 m (490 ft), were thought to be unclimbed as of August 2018.
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has also been climbed but the topmost summit was not ascended and the primary summit is now off limits to climbers.
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of China, with an altitude of 6,638 m (21,778 ft) is one of the most prominent. It lies in the
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are so remote that they were unknown to local inhabitants until they were sighted by explorers.
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The mountain most widely claimed to be the highest unclimbed mountain in the world in terms of
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Asian Sacred Natural Sites: Philosophy and practice in protected areas and conservation
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Inca Rituals and Sacred Mountains: A Study of the World's Highest Archaeological Sites
1358: 1211: 989: 735: 643: 531: 385: 321: 317: 280:(7,221 m or 23,691 ft with a prominence of 895 m or 2,936 ft). 232: 217: 111: 79: 55: 308:(3,110 m or 10,200 ft, prominence of 3,110 m or 10,200 ft) on 930: 926: 791: 276:(7,250 m, 23,790 ft) with prominence of 570 m (1,870 ft) and 441: 297: 181: 50: 1480: 1031: 877: 673: 617: 411: 293: 188: 155: 114:
there are annual pilgrimages to see it, but setting foot on it is forbidden.
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individual summits. Unclimbed summits include one on the massif known as
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A secondary summit of Kabru is one of the tallest that is unclimbed
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during the winter when conditions are generally more treacherous.
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Verschuuren, Bas (2016). "Nye within protected areas of Bhutan".
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International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
1403:"7 of the Tallest Unclimbed Mountains in the World" 165: 1333: 1331: 327: 191:, has been summited a number of times, but on the 70:Unclimbed mountains are sometimes referred to as " 1478: 283: 1428:(in Norwegian). Bergens Tidende. Archived from 1328: 1281:"The Four Forbidden Mountains in the Himalayas" 1205: 1357:. Macmillan International Higher Education. 1337: 1206:Reinhard, Johan; Ceruti, Constanza (2010). 268:(7,318 m or 24,009 ft prominence 126: 121: 957: 703: 671: 439: 1450: 1353:Mason, Colin (2014). "Nepal and Bhutan". 235:(7,570 m, 24,840 ft). It is in 1377: 335:Mountains with prominence over 300 m in 254: 211: 130: 29: 1400: 1394: 1256:"Where are the world's highest cities?" 1153: 1151: 37:is off limits due to religious beliefs. 14: 1479: 1451:Jurgalski, Eberhald (17 August 2018). 1295: 58:(7,570 metres, 24,840 ft) on the 1352: 1301: 1230: 1163:"The mountains we have never climbed" 1157: 251:Highest unclimbed non-prohibited peak 1253: 1148: 1102:List of mountain peaks by prominence 150:classified 82 mountain peaks in the 27:Summit never reached by mountaineers 1177: 302:border between Kazakhstan and China 207: 24: 1423: 1378:Jennings, Ken (14 December 2015). 1254:Gill, Nicholas (8 February 2016). 1210:. Institute of Archaeology Press. 1107:List of highest mountains on Earth 171:Archaeological excavations in the 25: 1503: 1302:Itami, Tsuguyasu (October 2001). 1401:Newcomb, Tim (19 January 2018). 187:The world's third-tallest peak, 166:Verification of unclimbed status 1459: 1444: 1417: 1371: 1128: 1119: 328:List of highest unclimbed peaks 18:List of highest unclimbed peaks 1346: 1273: 1247: 1231:Ghose, Tia (23 October 2014). 1224: 1199: 958: 704: 672: 440: 13: 1: 1141: 284:Most prominent unclimbed peak 269: 239:, on or near the border with 110:. Because of its status as a 1283:. Climb Report. 6 March 2016 1068: 1063: 1040: 1015: 1010: 998: 979: 976: 970: 941: 936: 913: 888: 883: 871: 846: 841: 829: 809: 806: 800: 781: 778: 772: 753: 750: 744: 725: 722: 716: 693: 690: 684: 661: 658: 652: 627: 622: 610: 585: 580: 567: 541: 536: 524: 499: 494: 482: 463: 460: 452: 429: 426: 420: 395: 390: 378: 272:100 m or 330 ft), 90:(GangdisĂŞ Mountains) of the 7: 1095: 1078: 1073: 1025: 1020: 985: 982: 951: 946: 898: 893: 856: 851: 815: 812: 787: 784: 759: 756: 731: 728: 699: 696: 667: 664: 637: 632: 595: 590: 551: 546: 509: 504: 469: 466: 435: 432: 405: 400: 10: 1508: 1487:History of mountaineering 1185:"Mountain Classification" 359: 356: 353: 350: 347: 344: 1112: 127:Definition of a mountain 122:Challenges in definition 1355:A Short History of Asia 84:Tibet Autonomous Region 260: 224: 162:, as a distinct peak. 143:topographic prominence 137: 38: 974:Annapurna Dakshin NE 274:Labuche Kang III/East 258: 215: 134: 33: 1311:Japanese Alpine News 424:Kunyang Chhish West 220:from Gophu La pass, 78:, a mountain in the 1405:. 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Index

List of highest unclimbed peaks

Mount Kailash
mountain peak
climbed
Gangkhar Puensum
Bhutan–China border
mountain
Mount Kailash
Ngari Prefecture
Tibet Autonomous Region
Kailash Range
Transhimalaya
Hinduism
Buddhism
Jainism
Bon
sacred mountain

topographic prominence
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
Alps
mountain pass
col
Andes
Lhasa
Greater Ranges
Kangchenjunga
1955 expedition
Nanda Devi

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