601:... after reaching the end and camping for the night came the task of ridding themselves from the bloodsuckers . ... The lake was full of these abominable black plagues, and they stuck so tight to the skin that they broke in pieces if force was used to remove them; experience had taught the use of a decoction of tobacco to remove them, and this was resorted to with good success. Having rid ourselves of the bloodsuckers, we were assailed by myriads of mosquitoes, that rendered sleep hopeless, though we sought the softest spots on the ground for our beds. Those who had waded the lake suffered great agony, their limbs becoming swollen and inflamed, and their sufferings were not ended for two or three days. It took us three consecutive days of such toil to pass all our boats through this miserable lake...
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562:, at the mouth of the Chicago River, describe a passage from west to east. Starting at the west end of the portage at the Des Plaines River they paddled east through Portage Creek and through the marsh that would later be known as Mud Lake. At the east end of the marsh they portaged their boats, equipment, and supplies over a low rise of land that was the St Lawrence River continental divide. They then entered the South Branch of the Chicago River, and paddled north to the Fort.
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542:. An indication of the importance of portages that potentially could make this connection is shown in early maps of the region. For example, this French map of the western regions of New France, published 1755, shows the “R.(iviere) et Port de Checageu” (River and Port of Checageu), the “Checageu River”, and the “Portage des Chenes” (the portage of oak trees), the name the French originally attached to the Portage.
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the bend in the river they would either head East into Mud Lake, if there was sufficient water there to permit that option, or stop at the landing, offload their canoes or boats, and carry everything along the
Portage trails to reach the South Branch of the Chicago River. The Chicago Portage National Historic Site is outlined in red and the map shows the entrance to Mud Lake and the West End Landing.
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west end of the portage. This aerial photo shows the Des
Plaines River and the area around the Portage Historic Site as they exist today (2024). The remnants of the old course of the river can be seen as faint collections of water in the middle of the image. The current course of the Des Plaines River flows North to South and is shown just to the left of these remnants.
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359:, the continental divide that separated what had become the Great Lakes waterway system from the Mississippi River waterway system and, as the illustration shows, opened up almost all of what was to become the United States from the Allegheny Mountains to the Rocky Mountains as far south as the Gulf of Mexico.
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378:, and by the time of the formation of the Portage, these people had begun to create semi-permanent settlements. Archaeological evidence shows that long-distance trade routes had been established. Late Archaic sites that have been uncovered around the Chicago area have revealed shells from the
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Further proof that the original course of the Des
Plaines River is as shown comes from the third map, one of many from the Knight and Zeuch study of the Chicago Portage. This one shows the old course of the Des Plaines River and the bend in the river that marked the western end of the portage.
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The Des
Plaines River today is not the river as it was in, for example, 1673 when Jolliet and Marquette first passed through the Chicago Portage. During the period 1892-1900 the original channel of the river was straightened, cutting off the part that the Jolliet and Marquette party used to reach the
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While a part of our crew were thus employed, others busied themselves in transporting our goods on their backs to the river; it was a laborious day for all. Those who waded through the mud frequently sank to their waist, and at times were forced to cling to the side of the boat to prevent going over
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As commerce over the portage grew, local entrepreneurs developed services to help travelers using the
Portage. One such were the wagon roads that made commerce over the Portage much easier during dry periods. An example is the Ottawa trail that started as a pathway, became a wagon road,
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The second image shows the ancient course of the Des
Plaines River overlayed (in blue) on the photo above it to show the river as it was during the centuries of the Portage’s use. Travelers coming from the West would approach from the Southwest, using the old river outlined in blue. Reaching
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from the mouth of St
Lawrence River through Chicago to the Mississippi River and the vast ranch and farm lands drained by it. The population of the City tripled in the next six years. The Chicago Portage, established thousands of years before as the link between the two great waterway systems of
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Four men only remained in a boat and pushed with these poles, while six or eight others waded in the mud alongside, and by united efforts constantly jerking it along, so that from early dawn to dark we succeeded only in passing a part of our boats through to the Aux
Plaines outlet, where we found
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Mud Lake could be wet, dry, marshy, or frozen, depending on the season and the weather, making it a difficult, albeit very valuable, transportation route. In very wet weather the water level in both the Des
Plaines River and the Chicago River would rise to the point that Mud Lake was flooded, and
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The
Chicago Portage linked what became known as the Chicago River's South Branch and what became known as the Des Plaines River. The point at which the portage crossed the low continental divide that separated waters flowing east toward Lake Michigan from waters flowing west toward the Mississippi
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Other members of the crew carried the boats’ cargo, across the seven-mile-long land trail to the Des Plaines River. Because of his status as clerk of the expedition, by virtue of his ability to read and write, Hubbard was spared this hard work. He went on to describe the hardships of
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The map also shows the Old Portage Long trail that was used when there was insufficient water in Mud Lake to allow traverse by canoe. This trail extended to the southwest to the early settlement of Ottawa on the Illinois River. Since there was usually sufficient water in the larger
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The earliest Europeans to cross the Portage saw the potential for a canal dug along the route of the Portage. Louis Jolliet, after his first passage, opined that a canal across “… only a few leagues of prairie…” could link the Great Lakes with the Mississippi Valley.
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Accordingly, on The 17th day of may, 1673, we started from the Mission of st. Ignace at Michilimakinac where I Then was. The Joy that we felt at being selected for This Expedition animated our Courage, and rendered the labor of paddling from morning to night agreeable to
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Preserved within the park is the western end of the historic Chicago Portage. The site is the only part of the Portage that remains in a natural and protected state more or less as it existed when in use by Native Americans and the Europeans who came after them.
483:, having heard of reports of a great river to the West and hoping it would be the long-sought "Northwest Passage" to the Pacific Ocean, ordered a reconnaissance mission to find and explore this river. In May of that year the group, consisting of
580:, heavy flat-bottomed boats. They traveled down the South Branch of the Chicago River and pulled their boats over the St Lawrence Continental Divide into Mud Lake where the water was deep enough to float them. Then …
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and was therefore a key to the trade network that had developed. Given that copper from the northern shores of Lake Superior have been found at archeological digs at Cahokia, and that Mississippian pottery has been found at sites at northern
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As the glacier continued to retreat, it opened another outlet far to the East that became the St Lawrence River. This allowed the emerging lakes to drain even faster, and the Chicago Outlet River dried up leaving the gap in the
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During the 18th century, the Chicago Portage was one of the most strategic locations in the interior of the North American continent for the French. In particular, it provided an easy connection between the French cities of
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405:(200 BCE to 500 CE) that arose during this time saw further development of these trade networks as well as the appearance of pottery. Hopewell tribes engaged in extensive trade. This trade network is now called the
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travelers could traverse the entire six miles by canoe. Usually, however, particularly in late summer, it was necessary to pull out canoes at some point and carry them and all supplies around Mud Lake.
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413:, played a major part. Since at this time most long-distance travel for trade purposes was via water, it is likely that during this Woodland period the Chicago Portage was first regularly used.
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by a different route on the advice of Native Americans they had encountered along the way, who told them that there was a better way to return to Lake Michigan. Travelling by stages up the
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After a hard day of work crossing the portage, the men camped near the river at the west end of the portage. But their discomfort was not yet over, as Hubbard’s account continues.
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is a stylized map of the Chicago Portage, with four red stars symbolizing the city and its history, separating two blue stripes symbolizing the two great waters that meet at the city.
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was virtually the only way to move goods and people around North America. Hence, connections between strategic waterways, usually involving portages, held special importance.
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If water level in the portage was high enough to allow passage by canoe for most of the way, passage across the portage was relatively easy. Accounts from soldiers stationed at
530:, in September 1673 members of the Caskaskia, a tribe of the Illinois Confederation, led Jolliet and Marquette to the western end of what became known as the Chicago Portage.
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Recognizing the strategic importance of the Chicago Portage, in 1803 the new country of the United States built Fort Dearborn at the mouth of the Chicago River to guard it.
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The Chicago Portage allowed easy access, by boat, to almost all of North America, from the mouth of the St Lawrence River to the Rocky Mountains and the Gulf of Mexico.
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206:, the first known Europeans to explore this part of North America, to the portage. A strategic location, it became a key to European activity in the
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This map of the Portage, superimposed on the map of early Chicago, shows that the most important trails in the region led to the Portage and the several
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420:(1000 – 1600) followed the Woodland. During this time native people built more permanent settlements, and continued to expand trading networks.
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Great Lakes Basin and St. Lawrence watershed. The Chicago Portage to the Mississippi Valley is to the south west (lower-left) of Lake Michigan.
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Illinois River for canoeing, this “Ottawa Trail” was used in very dry conditions when there was insufficient water in the Des Plaines River.
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was the largest of these settlements and the best example of how native society was evolving. It was located at the confluence of the
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The importance of the Chicago Portage lies in the fact that the channel cut by the Chicago Outlet River created an easy passage over the
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Continental Divides of North America. The pink line (center-right) denotes the Great Lakes-St Lawrence divide that runs through Chicago
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During all of this time early Native Americans found the Chicago Portage to be a convenient transportation route between the
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If water levels in the portage were low, passage was difficult, in part due to the soft or waterlogged ground. In 1818
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As the glacier melted and retreated, the water in Lake Chicago rose until it overflowed the southwestern edge of the
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Mississippi Valley watershed and Chicago. The Great Lakes-St Lawrence basin is to the north-east (upper-right).
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had established a trading post at present day Mackinac Island at the top of Lake Michigan. In that year,
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Native Americans had used the portage for almost two thousand years before the arrival of Europeans.
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system. Connecting these two great water trails meant comparatively easy access from the mouth of the
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985:"Description of the Chicago District from US Geological Survey, Geologic Atlas of the US, Nbr 81;"
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as an indentured clerk, crossed the Portage from East to West and left an account in his memoirs.
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The Portage was probably created around 500 BCE at the end of what is commonly referred to as the
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Ancient path connecting the Great Lakes waterway system with the Mississippi River system
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in what became the portage region, when the Outlet River cut through the glacial
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The explorers found the Mississippi River, explored it, and then returned to
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area “Mud Lake”. The total length of the portage was about six miles.
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The Portage waterway at the Chicago Portage National Historic Site in March
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to drain the lake, creating the later pathway and topography of the portage
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cutting through the portage, this was deepened and widened in 1900 by the
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756:. The site, designated January 3, 1952 as an "affiliated area" of the
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America, would give birth to Chicago which would go on to become the
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The Location of the Chicago Portage Route of the Seventeenth Century
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The Location of the Chicago Portage Route of the Seventeenth Century
1136:"Travels and Explorations of the Jesuit Missionaries in New France"
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breached the water divide in 1848. It was largely replaced by the
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818:: A Paper Read Before the Chicago Historical Society, May 1, 1923
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and continue its role as the link between the East and the West.
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The history of the Chicago Portage begins at the end of the last
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Eventually, Joliet’s vision came to reality in the form of the
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They had traveled down to the Portage from Mackinac Island in
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of the Chicago Outlet River. Early settlers called this
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which was also used to control the water's directional flow.
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Chicago Portage Ledger: Carnegie Mellon University Libraries
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The birthplace of Chicago, connecting the East with the West
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Detail from a French map (1775) showing the Chicago Portage
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retreated northward about 10,000 years ago, leaving behind
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1155:"Partie occidentale de la Nouvelle France ou du Canada"
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The Portage crossed waterways and wetlands between the
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569:, then 16 years old and traveling with a “brigade” of
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The waterway at the Portage Historic Site in August
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300:, and the terrain that became the Chicago Portage.
179:. The approximately six-mile link had been used by
1100:. Illinois Historic Preservation. pp. 53–54.
672:In 1848 the opening of the I&M canal allowed
78:(historic dividing point) 3100 West 31st Street,
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1301:. Friends of the Chicago Portage. Archived from
229:. In 1848, the water divide was breached by the
1215:The Autobiography of Gurdon Saltonstall Hubbard
401:(500 BCE – 1,000 CE) followed the Archaic. The
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1173:"The Creek, The Portage and the Journey's End"
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409:, and the part that encompassed Illinois, the
312:River was a wetland that occupied the ancient
57:, several railroads, numerous roads including
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1326:Knight, Robert; Zeuch, Lucius Henry (1928).
633:and ultimately was paved and became part of
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1234:"The Chicago Portage - Historical Synopsis"
1113:"The Trade History of Fort Michilimackinac"
796:Chicago Portage From Knight and Zeuch Study
591:crossing the Portage in its natural state.
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1392:
1217:. Chicago, IL: R. R. Donnelley & Sons.
348:Until the second half of the 19th century
328:A key to travel and trade in North America
210:, ultimately leading to the foundation of
479:, the first Intendant (administrator) of
1270:"CHICAGO PORTAGE NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE"
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812:, Benjamin Sells, Northwestern U. Press
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1276:. National Park Service. Archived from
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810:A History of the Chicago Portage (2021)
762:Forest Preserve District of Cook County
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240:
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1274:Survey of Historic Sites and Buildings
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734:Chicago Portage National Historic Site
698:Chicago Portage National Historic Site
692:Chicago Portage National Historic Site
495:set out on their voyage of discovery.
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651:Illinois and Michigan (I&M) Canal
231:Illinois and Michigan (I&M) Canal
190:In the summer of 1673 members of the
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1059:Carnegie Mellon University Libraries
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1061:(Vol 2, Nbr 1 ed.). p. 1.
1055:"Chicago Portage Ledger - Mud Lake"
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760:, is owned and administered by the
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1374:The Continental Divide in Oak Park
1365:Jolliet and La Salle's Canal Plans
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464:Canoes in a fog, Lake Superior by
183:for thousands of years during the
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1117:Michigan Technological University
1111:Cordes, Luke (October 28, 2016).
1065:
942:
308:that served the Chicago Portage.
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1652:
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1153:Bellin, Jacques Nicolas (1755).
1085:. Northwestern University Press.
1083:A History Of The Chicago Portage
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843:
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628:Wagon roads and today's highways
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58:
27:
1714:Water gaps of the United States
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1262:
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930:Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal
868:Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal
235:Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal
55:Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal
1196:"Crossing the Chicago Portage"
1104:
1089:
1046:
1036:"What The Glacier Left Behind"
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1009:
999:"How Was the Portage Created?"
991:
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249:Development of the Great Lakes
1:
1704:Portages in the United States
1345:Chicago Portage official site
1330:. Chicago Historical Society.
987:. Transcribed by Ellin Beltz.
935:
679:transportation hub of the US
336:The St Lawrence River divide
7:
1699:Mississippi River watershed
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1018:"Glacial Lakes in Michigan"
925:Illinois and Michigan Canal
905:Saint Lawrence River Divide
878:
864:Illinois and Michigan Canal
686:flag of the City of Chicago
641:Illinois and Michigan Canal
407:Hopewell Interaction Sphere
357:Saint Lawrence River Divide
51:Illinois and Michigan Canal
10:
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915:Eastern Continental Divide
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187:era for travel and trade.
1709:Transportation in Chicago
1638:
1441:Colleges and universities
1421:
1096:Markman, Charles (1991).
1053:Vierling, Philip (2001).
1022:Michigan State University
668:Flag of Chicago, Illinois
159:waterway system with the
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45:
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26:
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1299:"The Future of The Past"
1213:Hubbard, Gurdon (1911).
1081:Sells, Benjamin (2021).
489:Father Jacques Marquette
390:, area, and copper from
273:. It was formed as the
204:Father Jacques Marquette
1379:Chicago Portage History
1369:Encyclopedia of Chicago
983:Alden, William (1902).
970:Encyclopedia of Chicago
257:Map of part of ancient
225:, through a gap in the
198:, led French explorers
1256:Chicago Public Library
1098:Chicago before History
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738:National Historic Site
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653:which opened in 1848.
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587:the first hard ground.
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554:Map of Chicago Portage
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130:41.83722°N 87.70222°W
49:Mud Lake (historic),
1679:Geography of Chicago
1140:Creighton University
920:Stevenson Expressway
890:Geography of Chicago
674:water transportation
546:Crossing the portage
466:Francis Anne Hopkins
418:Mississippian period
350:water transportation
275:Wisconsin glaciation
241:Created by a glacier
68:Stevenson Expressway
1719:Valleys of Illinois
1238:The Chicago Portage
1200:The Chicago Portage
1177:The Chicago Portage
1159:Library of Congress
1040:The Chicago Portage
1016:Schaetzl, Randall.
1003:The Chicago Portage
477:Jean-Baptiste Talon
456:The first Europeans
376:Paleo-Indian period
155:that connected the
135:41.83722; -87.70222
126: /
1694:Illinois waterways
1689:History of Chicago
895:Valparaiso Moraine
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446:Great Lakes region
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286:Valparaiso Moraine
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227:Valparaiso Moraine
165:St. Lawrence River
101:Valparaiso Moraine
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1549:Metropolitan area
910:Laurentian Divide
528:Des Plaines River
452:in the interior.
450:Mississippi River
426:Mississippi River
298:Des Plaines River
223:Des Plaines River
194:, a tribe of the
161:Mississippi River
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388:Galena, Illinois
181:Native Americans
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157:Great Lakes
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108:Coordinates
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1673:Categories
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1532:Literature
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1309:2012-08-23
1284:2012-05-15
936:References
481:New France
439:Lake Huron
432:, and the
380:Gulf Coast
314:stream bed
175:, and the
118:41°50′14″N
1586:musicians
1527:Landmarks
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966:"Portage"
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192:Kaskaskia
121:87°42′8″W
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618:fords
96:Range
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