307:
319:
95:
355:
367:
295:
343:
331:
107:
382:
87:
20:
167:, coined by Wendelin Boeheim in 1894, who was the first to suggest that the furs were intended to attract fleas away from the body of the wearer. There is no historical evidence to support this claim. Italians simply called these accessories "zibellini", their word for sables and speakers of other languages called them "martens", "sables" or "ermines" in their native tongues.
282:
in July 1607, which had been a gift to her. The
Countess described the zibellino as lifelike in her thank-you letter: 'with humble thanks for your Ladyship's "fayre and wellwrought Armen", which Godwilling I will keep as a great jewel both in respect of your Ladyship and her from whom your Ladyship
229:
in 1553, she had a "sable skin, with a head of gold, muffled, garnished and set with four emeralds, four turquoises, six rubies, two diamonds and five pearls; four feet of gold, each set with a turquoise, the tongue being a ruby". Another sable skin used by Jane Grey had a clock or watch attached.
210:, and one of rock crystal. Mary had zibellini of marten, sable, and ermine fur. In 1580, Mary, Queen of Scots, wrote to France for a marten fur and a gold marten's head set with precious stones for a christening gift for
272:
owned "a sable head of gold with a collar or muzzle attached, garnished with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, with four feet", possibly inherited from
Elizabeth or Mary, Queen of Scots.
306:
366:
796:
821:
215:
354:
318:
246:
received a "Sable Skynne the hed and fourre featte of gold fully furnished with
Dyamondes and Rubyes" as a New Year's Gift from the
211:
752:
261:
247:
279:
330:
372:
253:
235:
774:
742:
721:
257:
186:
The jewelled gold heads and feet of zibellini were detailed in several royal inventories. The
Edinburgh goldsmith
342:
381:
294:
811:
652:
111:
133:
owned at least four; the weasel was an early modern talisman for fertility and
Leonora was applauded as
694:
94:
121:
The earliest surviving mention of a marten pelt to be worn as neck ornament occurs in an inventory of
156:
The style spread to the north and west. The traditional costume historian's term for this accessory,
791:
445:
as Luxury
Accessories of the Renaissance", in Robin Netherton and Gale R. Owen-Crocker, editors,
187:
150:
243:
138:
170:
The fashion for carrying zibellini died out in the first years of the 17th century, although
195:
8:
766:
387:
59:
worn draped at the neck or hanging at the waist, or carried in the hand. The plural is
527:
130:
99:
44:
545:
Renaissance jewels, gold boxes, and objets de vertu: the
Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection
770:
738:
717:
458:
161:
40:
275:
126:
122:
737:, Volume 2, Woodbridge, Suffolk, UK, and Rochester, NY, the Boydell Press, 2006,
269:
226:
23:
Portrait attributed to
William Segar, c. 1595, showing a lady holding a zibellino
698:
265:
239:
222:
805:
598:
207:
191:
129:, dated 1467, but the fashion was widespread in Northern Italy by the 1490s.
106:
477:: Jacqueline Marie Musacchio, "Weasels and pregnancy in Renaissance Italy",
816:
178:
and other pelts were worn in similar fashion in the 19th and 20th century.
115:
786:
242:, owned a "sabelles heade" set with 21 diamonds and a ruby in its mouth.
756:
231:
90:
Angelica
Agliardi De Nicolinis holding an unadorned zibellino, c. 1560s
792:
Gold and jewelled marten's head from the
Walters Art Museum, Baltimore
749:
History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century
421:
History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century
256:
holds a jewelled gold marten's head and fur in her 1570s portrait at
137:, "most fertile" for the number of her children. Eleonora's daughter
64:
86:
43:
popular in the later 15th and 16th centuries. A zibellino, from the
19:
199:
146:
68:
75:
401:
283:
had it, There can be nothing wrought in metal with more life'.
203:
56:
72:
48:
672:
Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory',
175:
264:
bequeathed a sable with a gold head set with diamonds to
171:
149:'s studio painted at the time of her marriage in 1558 to
52:
797:
The Muff in Sixteenth Century Dress, From Fleas to Fancy
587:
HMC Calendar of Manuscripts of the Marquess of Salisbury
676:, 109 (Torquay, 1991), p. 207 no. 152, modernised here.
691:
Court Patronage and Corruption in Early Stuart England
615:
Princely Magnificence: Court Jewels of the Renaissance
787:
Zibellini (aka "Flea Furs") in 16th Century Portraits
733:
Netherton, Robin, and Gale R. Owen-Crocker, editors,
190:
made a marten's head and feet from Scottish gold for
751:, Harper & Row, 1965. No ISBN for this edition;
63:. Some zibellini were fitted with faces and paws of
98:
Jewelled head for a zibellino, Italy, ca. 1550–59 (
605:(London, 1998), pp. 256 no. 11536, 430 no. 17535.
803:
659:, vol. 1 (London, 1886), p. 49 (as a "table"):
230:Both sable skins had belonged to the wives of
78:, while unadorned furs were also fashionable.
441:Sherrill, Tawny: "Fleas, Furs, and Fashions:
657:The Life and Letters of Lady Arabella Stuart
206:in 1561; one of her zibellini had a head of
689:(Routledge, 2017), 183–4: Linda Levy Peck,
661:Calendar State Papers Domestic, 1581–1590
105:
93:
85:
18:
181:
804:
543:Anna Somers Cocks and Charles Truman,
437:
435:
433:
431:
429:
198:, brought fur pieces on her return to
822:History of clothing (Western fashion)
716:, W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988.
573:(Sheffield, 1880), p. 444: Labanoff,
423:, Harper & Row, 1965, p. 294, 321
262:Margaret Douglas, Countess of Lennox
714:Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
628:Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
589:, vol. 1 (London, 1883), pp. 128–9.
534:, vol. 7 (Edinburgh, 1907), p. 265.
426:
13:
620:
547:(London: Philip Wilson, 1984), 70.
373:Frances Sidney, Countess of Sussex
360:probably England, mid-16th century
254:Frances Sidney, Countess of Sussex
236:Anne Herbert, Countess of Pembroke
14:
833:
780:
571:Mary Queen of Scots in Captivity
380:
365:
353:
341:
336:Isabella de' Medici, Italy, 1558
329:
317:
305:
293:
258:Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge
194:in December 1539. Her daughter,
679:
666:
646:
633:
608:
592:
580:
563:
735:Medieval Clothing and Textiles
730:, New York, Random House, 1938
699:X.d.428 (118), modernised here
663:, p. 661: TNA SP 12/231 f.176.
550:
537:
521:
518:, New York, Random House, 1938
508:
495:
468:
452:
447:Medieval Clothing and Textiles
413:
1:
706:
145:in a portrait by a member of
763:Tudor and Jacobean Jewellery
630:(Maney, 1988), pp. 192, 327.
463:Tudor and Jacobean Jewellery
7:
693:(London, 1990), 70, citing
503:Murder of a Medici Princess
395:
10:
838:
695:Folger Shakespeare Library
687:Bess of Hardwick's Letters
490:Murder of a Medici Princes
286:
81:
532:Accounts of the Treasurer
16:Women's fashion accessory
560:, 7 (London, 1844), 259.
505:2008:69ff (illustrated).
407:
348:France, mid-16th century
617:(London, 1980), p. 132.
603:Inventory of Henry VIII
575:Lettres de Marie Stuart
558:Lettres de Marie Stuart
484:.2 (June 2001:172-87);
110:Zibellino belonging to
643:(London, 1995), p. 95.
488:: Caroline P. Murphy,
449:, Volume 2, p. 121-150
375:, England, ca. 1570-75
280:Countess of Shrewsbury
278:sent an ermine to the
244:Elizabeth I of England
118:
103:
91:
24:
151:Paolo Giordano Orsini
109:
97:
89:
22:
761:Scarisbrick, Diana,
569:John Daniel Leader,
556:Alexandre Labanoff,
501:Caroline P. Murphy,
196:Mary, Queen of Scots
182:England and Scotland
812:Fashion accessories
479:Renaissance Studies
388:Elisabeth of Valois
139:Isabella de' Medici
728:Fashion is Spinach
726:Hawes, Elizabeth,
528:James Balfour Paul
516:Fashion is Spinach
514:Hawes, Elizabeth,
131:Eleonora de Toledo
119:
104:
100:Walters Art Museum
92:
25:
459:Diana Scarisbrick
248:Earl of Leicester
221:In England, when
41:fashion accessory
829:
747:Payne, Blanche,
701:
685:Alison Wiggins,
683:
677:
670:
664:
653:Elizabeth Cooper
650:
644:
637:
631:
624:
618:
612:
606:
596:
590:
584:
578:
567:
561:
554:
548:
541:
535:
525:
519:
512:
506:
499:
493:
472:
466:
456:
450:
439:
424:
419:Payne, Blanche:
417:
384:
369:
357:
345:
333:
321:
309:
297:
276:Bess of Hardwick
212:Gilbert Talbot's
127:Duke of Burgundy
123:Charles the Bold
837:
836:
832:
831:
830:
828:
827:
826:
802:
801:
783:
767:Tate Publishing
712:Arnold, Janet,
709:
704:
684:
680:
671:
667:
651:
647:
638:
634:
626:Arnold, Janet:
625:
621:
613:
609:
597:
593:
585:
581:
568:
564:
555:
551:
542:
538:
526:
522:
513:
509:
500:
496:
473:
469:
457:
453:
440:
427:
418:
414:
410:
398:
391:
385:
376:
370:
361:
358:
349:
346:
337:
334:
325:
322:
313:
310:
301:
298:
289:
270:Anne of Denmark
227:Tower of London
184:
141:appears with a
135:La Fecondissima
112:Anna of Austria
84:
17:
12:
11:
5:
835:
825:
824:
819:
814:
800:
799:
794:
789:
782:
781:External links
779:
778:
777:
759:
745:
731:
724:
708:
705:
703:
702:
678:
665:
645:
632:
619:
607:
591:
579:
562:
549:
536:
520:
507:
494:
467:
451:
425:
411:
409:
406:
405:
404:
397:
394:
393:
392:
390:, Spain, 1560s
386:
379:
377:
371:
364:
362:
359:
352:
350:
347:
340:
338:
335:
328:
326:
323:
316:
314:
311:
304:
302:
299:
292:
288:
285:
266:Arbella Stuart
240:Catherine Parr
223:Lady Jane Grey
183:
180:
160:, is from the
83:
80:
55:of a sable or
15:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
834:
823:
820:
818:
815:
813:
810:
809:
807:
798:
795:
793:
790:
788:
785:
784:
776:
775:1-85437-158-4
772:
768:
764:
760:
758:
754:
750:
746:
744:
743:1-84383-203-8
740:
736:
732:
729:
725:
723:
722:0-901286-20-6
719:
715:
711:
710:
700:
696:
692:
688:
682:
675:
669:
662:
658:
654:
649:
642:
639:Karen Hearn,
636:
629:
623:
616:
611:
604:
600:
599:David Starkey
595:
588:
583:
576:
572:
566:
559:
553:
546:
540:
533:
529:
524:
517:
511:
504:
498:
491:
487:
483:
480:
476:
471:
464:
460:
455:
448:
444:
438:
436:
434:
432:
430:
422:
416:
412:
403:
400:
399:
389:
383:
378:
374:
368:
363:
356:
351:
344:
339:
332:
327:
320:
315:
308:
303:
296:
291:
290:
284:
281:
277:
273:
271:
267:
263:
259:
255:
251:
249:
245:
241:
237:
233:
228:
224:
219:
217:
213:
209:
205:
201:
197:
193:
192:Mary of Guise
189:
179:
177:
173:
168:
166:
163:
159:
154:
152:
148:
144:
140:
136:
132:
128:
124:
117:
113:
108:
101:
96:
88:
79:
77:
74:
70:
67:'s work with
66:
62:
58:
54:
50:
46:
42:
39:is a women's
38:
34:
30:
21:
762:
748:
734:
727:
713:
690:
686:
681:
674:Archaeologia
673:
668:
660:
656:
648:
640:
635:
627:
622:
614:
610:
602:
594:
586:
582:
577:, 5, p. 166.
574:
570:
565:
557:
552:
544:
539:
531:
523:
515:
510:
502:
497:
489:
486:Fecondissima
485:
481:
478:
474:
470:
462:
454:
446:
442:
420:
415:
312:Italy, 1552.
274:
252:
238:, sister of
220:
185:
169:
164:
157:
155:
142:
134:
120:
116:Hans Muelich
60:
36:
32:
28:
26:
465:, p. 99-100
300:Italy, 1515
268:. In 1606,
225:was at the
188:John Mosman
806:Categories
765:, London,
757:B0006BMNFS
707:References
324:Italy 1557
260:. In 1578
232:Henry VIII
51:", is the
47:word for "
37:fur tippet
641:Dynasties
492:2008:69ff
443:Zibellini
250:in 1585.
214:daughter
143:zibellino
114:drawn by
71:eyes and
65:goldsmith
61:zibellini
29:zibellino
769:, 1995,
475:Talisman
396:See also
200:Scotland
165:Flohpelz
158:flea-fur
147:Bronzino
76:earrings
33:flea-fur
287:Gallery
82:History
69:jeweled
45:Italian
773:
755:
741:
720:
402:Tippet
204:France
162:German
57:marten
408:Notes
202:from
73:pearl
49:sable
771:ISBN
753:ASIN
739:ISBN
718:ISBN
216:Mary
176:mink
53:pelt
817:Fur
208:jet
172:fox
35:or
31:,
808::
697:,
655:,
601:,
530:,
482:15
461:,
428:^
234:.
218:.
174:,
153:.
125:,
27:A
102:)
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
