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that no other guides would accompany him, Terray set out a small team of amateurs. They were turned back on 1 January 1957 either by poor weather or on the understanding that a helicopter would attempt a rescue the following day. Terray was highly critical of the
Chamonix Guide Association's inaction when the alarm had first been raised.
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Terray organised a rescue attempt of two climbers stranded on Mont Blanc in
December 1956. For this he was expelled from the Chamonix Guide's Association, which had refused to participate in the rescue from the start on the grounds that the risk to the rescuers would be too great. Due to the fact
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to an
English edition, he confirms he found the original manuscript written in Terray's hand which is word for word what was published, dispelling any notion that Terray did not write the book entirely himself.
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In the late 1950s and early 1960s, Terray made a number of first ascents in Peru, including the highest unclimbed peak in the central Andes at the time, 6,395-metre (20,981 ft)
324:
down from the mountain. Both Herzog and
Lachenal experienced extreme frostbite and subsequently underwent amputations. Despite these events, the French team returned to
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415:. There were rumors that Terray was functionally illiterate and the book was ghost-written; however in a Foreword written by author and climber
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and considered unclimbable at the time. One of Terray's finest achievements was the first ascent of 7,710-metre (25,295 ft)
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in 1962. He also climbed the
Nilgiris near Annapurna, and led the successful 1964 first ascent of 3,730-metre (12,240 ft)
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climbers and guides, noted for his speedy ascents of some of the most notorious climbs in the French, Italian, and
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during the 1920s). Terray did not reach the summit of
Annapurna, but together with the
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364:. He also made first ascents of lower but more difficult peaks, including
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590:. Translated by Geoffrey Sutton. Baton Wicks Publications; New Ed.
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in Tibet. First ascents of subsidiary summits
Kangchungtse and
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Terray was fatally injured from a fall while climbing in the
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A climbing guide and ski instructor, Terray was active in
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1950 expedition to the
Nepalese Himalayan peak, Annapurna
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Terray made the second ascent of the North Face of the
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to huge public acclaim, and Herzog's expedition book
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1962 - First ascent of 7,710-metre (25,295 ft)
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480:. The second to climb the northern face of the
446:1944 - First to the east-northeast spur of the
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376:/Chacraraju, possibly the hardest peak in the
560:1964 - In the Alaskan range, first ascent of
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828:(in French). April 14, 2009. Archived from
347:in 1957. This mission forms the subject of
262:. Terray, frequently with climbing partner
679:/University of California Press. pp.
822:"Lionel Terray: o conquistador do inĂştil"
476:1947 - Third ascent of the north face of
266:, broke previous climbing speed records.
203:(25 July 1921 – 19 September 1965) was a
109:Learn how and when to remove this message
469:, in eight hours. And the north face of
439:1942 - First ascent of the west side of
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454:and the north of the Peuterey lap with
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708:"End of Rescue Attempts on Mont Blanc"
646:. New York, NY, USA: The Lyons Press.
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605:Terray, Lionel; Franco, Jean (1965).
581:. France: Gallimard. ASIN B000HJRAVQ.
450:. The first on the north face of the
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332:became an international bestseller.
47:adding citations to reliable sources
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13:
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779:"Lionel Terray | Chamonix Guides"
305:had reached higher altitudes on
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34:needs additional citations for
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16:French climber and mountaineer
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675:. Berkeley, California, USA:
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213:1955 French Makalu expedition
808:Conquistadors of the Useless
755:Conquistadors of the Useless
588:Conquistadors of the Useless
578:Les Conquérants de l'inutile
487:1950 - Lionel Terray on the
413:Conquistadors of the Useless
258:, and the north face of the
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729:"60 years of Chamonix PGHM"
10:
891:
860:Sportspeople from Grenoble
396:, by the northwest ridge.
196:Terray's grave in Chamonix
757:. Gollancz. p. 369.
671:Climbing in North America
461:1946 - Spur north of the
423:His grave is situated in
250:: the Walker Spur of the
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865:French mountain climbers
638:Herzog, Maurice (1997).
452:fr:Aiguille des PĂ©lerins
783:www.chamonix-guides.com
753:Terray, Lionel (2001).
586:Terray, Lionel (2000).
575:Terray, Lionel (1961).
494:1952 - First ascent of
489:expedition to Annapurna
435:Principal expeditions:
269:Terray was a member of
238:against Germany during
875:Sport deaths in France
607:Bataille pour Le Jannu
509:1954 - Reconnoiter of
207:climber who made many
197:
870:Mountaineering deaths
810:. Mountaineers Books.
667:Jones, Chris (1976).
609:. France: Gallimard.
542:1959 - Expedition to
431:Principal expeditions
195:
677:American Alpine Club
522:Expedition to Makalu
441:Aiguille Purtcheller
354:The Climb Up To Hell
316:he aided summiteers
223:on 15 May 1955) and
129:Personal information
43:improve this article
211:, including on the
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533:Nevado Chacraraju
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153:19 September 1965
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531:1956 - In Peru,
471:Grandes Jorasses
390:Mount Huntington
303:Howard Somervell
252:Grandes Jorasses
229:Patagonian Andes
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236:mountain combat
167:Type of climber
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58:"Lionel Terray"
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478:Aiguille Verte
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467:Louis Lachenal
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378:Peruvian Andes
351:'s 1962 book,
341:Louis Lachenal
339:in 1947, with
322:Louis Lachenal
318:Maurice Herzog
295:Henry Morshead
291:Geoffrey Bruce
279:George Mallory
271:Maurice Herzog
264:Louis Lachenal
225:Cerro Fitz Roy
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60: –
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54:Find sources:
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32:This article
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830:the original
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786:. Retrieved
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736:. Retrieved
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711:. Retrieved
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569:Bibliography
498:(3,405m) in
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412:
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394:Alaska Range
359:
352:
334:
329:
299:Teddy Norton
287:George Finch
268:
240:World War II
233:
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145:25 July 1921
105:
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41:Please help
36:verification
33:
855:1965 deaths
850:1921 births
515:Chomo Lonzo
502:. Climb to
407:, south of
366:Willka Wiqi
134:Nationality
844:Categories
788:2024-06-30
625:References
537:Taulliraju
526:Jean Couzy
374:Chakrarahu
370:Tawllirahu
349:Jack Olsen
256:Piz Badile
248:Swiss Alps
221:Jean Couzy
99:April 2014
69:newspapers
642:Annapurna
564:(3,731m).
539:(5,830m).
517:(7,804m).
506:(6,960m).
504:Aconcagua
500:Patagonia
392:, in the
368:, Soray,
330:Annapurna
806:(2008).
738:18 April
713:18 April
681:330, 331
496:Fitz Roy
425:Chamonix
409:Grenoble
362:Huantsan
244:Chamonix
217:Himalaya
520:1955 -
465:, with
463:Droites
405:Vercors
227:in the
215:in the
83:scholar
761:
687:
650:
613:
594:
511:Makalu
372:, and
314:Adjiba
311:Sherpa
219:(with
205:French
181:Makalu
137:French
85:
78:
71:
64:
56:
555:Nepal
551:Jannu
544:Jannu
482:Eiger
386:Nepal
382:Jannu
345:Eiger
337:Eiger
326:Paris
260:Eiger
90:JSTOR
76:books
759:ISBN
740:2020
715:2020
685:ISBN
648:ISBN
611:ISBN
592:ISBN
320:and
301:and
150:Died
142:Born
62:news
553:in
384:in
273:'s
45:by
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