Leather subculture

1483: 685: 160: 250:. Even in those early years, different styles of gay male leather practices could be observed: Strict, formal S&M that was based on military traditions, informal "rough sex" or "buddy sexuality" associated with motorcycle clubs, and leather fetishism, as well as a mixture of all of those three. These varied widely between regions, causing much debate today over which traditions are the original or true traditions, or whether the "romanticized versions of leather history" ever existed at all. Over time, the practitioners of kink and BDSM were joined by those who were primarily interested in the aesthetics and atmosphere of the leather scene. 857: 1265: 33: 3724: 396: 168: 1515: 1406: 293:

coherence as well as providing sites for assembly. Especially in the period before Stonewall, the patrons were regularly threatened by police raids. In contrast, the motorcycle clubs' regular bike runs provided opportunities for undisturbed partying and sex outdoors. In the 1970s, leather bars also became sponsors of leather contests, as well as sexual spaces (sex in bars was illegal, but mostly tolerated), evident in the back rooms, dark corners or basements which had become a regular feature of many establishments.

3619: 3902:(1970) by Gerald Walker and explores the world of men's leather subculture within the context of a murder mystery. It aimed to bring aspects of the men's leather subculture to a wider audience, showcasing different elements and practices associated with the community. At the same time, it provided outrageous insights into gay leather sexuality to satisfy curiosity of the heterosexual mainstream society. Homosexual desire and violence were presented as two sides of the same coin. Some scenes are set at the 2621: 3791: 3101: 2162: 2091: 3857: 3759: 3549: 3515: 3480: 3443: 3351: 3316: 3281: 3244: 3209: 3155: 3044: 3009: 2955: 2920: 2886: 2849: 2814: 2774: 2739: 2422: 2389: 2351: 2315: 2281: 2246: 2202: 2125: 2040: 1936: 1901: 1869: 1837: 1805: 1773: 1725: 1679: 1118: 9950: 1096:

International Mr. Deaf Leather, and International Deaf Leather Boy. International Deaf Leather also bestowed the Michael Felts Lifetime Achievement Award, which in 1997 was given to Baltimore Leather Association of the Deaf (BLADeaf) cofounder Harry “Abbé” Woosley Jr., and the International Deaf Leather Recognition Award, which in 1998 was given to Baltimore Leather Association of the Deaf (BLADeaf). International Deaf Leather ended in 2021.

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cluster of venues in New York City at 50th Street and 3rd Avenue, called the "bird circuit", namely the Golden Pheasant Restaurant, the Blue Parrot Cafe and the Swan Club. Later, Shaw's (1953), the Lodge (1954) and the Big Dollar (1959) emerged as early "leather-friendly" bars. The lodge also imposed a dress code of leather, meaning mostly leather motorcycle jackets.

950:(2010). The author refers to his initiation by Old Guard instructors and presents a uniform protocol that allegedly all traditional leathermen followed. However, the book has been criticized as not being true to the historical facts, and incorporates practices which can be traced back to different sources, such as submissive positions of heterosexual 1499:

first distinct subgenre of gay bars, and with their characteristic visuals are often depicted as gay bars' most iconic form. Designated leather bars started appearing between the 1950s and 1960s in major cities, exploding in popularity in the 1970s. Usually, leather bars were found in industrial and working-class city neighborhoods, like

571:" below). In recent decades the leather community has been considered a subset of BDSM culture rather than the BDSM community being considered a subset of leather culture. Even so, the most visibly organized SM community related to leather has been a subculture of leather, as evidenced by the American competition known as 282:"If you knew Frank Olson, it was your ticket to meeting other people who were into S&M. Frank was the go-to-guy New York — in London it was Felix, Berlin it was George. It guaranteed you could always find a heavy sex night in the city. You could be pretty sure that if you got tied up, you wouldn’t get killed." 927:(SSC), the inclusion and further education of outsiders, which all slowly gained momentum in the 1960s and reached a peak in the 1980s. According to critics, as a result of these developments, the original anarchistic, rebellious character of leather and its mystery were lost, and the original teachings diluted. 962:

Today, while some may still use the term strictly in the old-fashioned sense (i.e., the romanticized Old Guard), more than ever the leather subculture in the 21st century represents the activities of several major sub-communities. These include BDSM practitioners, and people who have a preference for

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being especially frowned upon. On the other hand, a nationwide political campaign to close sex clubs, bathhouses and similar establishments was successful, and within a few years many institutions that had played a central role within the community were shut down. The forced closing of bathhouses and

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magazine was published in Los Angeles, which was the most successful of the American leather magazines, and sold overseas. The publication had a major impact of spreading gay leather as a lifestyle and masculinity as a gay ideal. The magazine was focused on quality writings about leather, accompanied

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has been quoted numerous times as formative imagery by leathermen, who described its leather look as masculine, sexual and radical. Although the film didn't create the symbolics of leather, it helped to standardize the masculine leather aesthetic and provided it with nationwide exposure. Artists such

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The formative period of gay leather subculture took place in the 1940s and 1950s. It mainly originates from two groups: Post-WWII California bikers in Los Angeles and "pre-leather" butch BDSM practitioners in New York City. The leather look first emerged in Los Angeles and subsequently was adopted by

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leather club in America, was founded. Its original name was Maryland Lambda Alliance of the Deaf and it had three name changes before its name was changed to BLADeaf. It was founded by Elwood C. Bennett, Scott Wilson, and Harry "Abbe" Woosley Jr. According to BLADeaf, the fact of the Baltimore Eagle

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Leather and Lace, a woman's leather/BDSM support and social group, was founded in Los Angeles in 1980. The women of Leather and Lace learned the "old guard" traditions from the men of Avatar. Leather and Lace had a code of conduct and a uniform that could only be worn once a member earned the right.

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in San Francisco was held for the first time, made possible by housing activists and community organizers, to provide means for fundraising, and create opportunities for members of the leather community to connect to services and vital information (e.g., regarding safer sex) that bathhouses and bars

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Dedicated leather bars slowly emerged between the 1950s and the 1960s in major Cities of the US (notably New York, Chicago, Los Angeles and San Francisco) and in Europe, gaining immense popularity in the 1970s. According to Lucas Hilderbrand, leather bars played an important role by giving the scene

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In Europe, the first Leather Club was the Sixty Nine Club (1965) in London, other early European leather clubs include Senses (1969) in UK, MS Amsterdam (1970) and MSC Rhein-Main Frankfurt (1970), Loge 70 (1973) in Switzerland, MSC London (1973) and MS Belgica (c. 1974) in Brussels. The

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In the United States, men's leather culture has been associated with men above the age of 40, but recent years have seen growing numbers of younger leather men. Also, in much of the rest of the world, including Europe and Australia, there is a merging of the established older leather community with

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Lately, the leather subculture is one of many facets to semi-organized alternative sexuality. Many individuals describe long periods of introspection leading to their choice to identify as "leather". Others do not necessarily associate their leather lifestyle with BDSM, and simply enjoy the sensory

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While the scene had functioned via oral tradition and personal referral in the previous decades, the rapid growth in numerous cities was accompanied by the emergence of printed publications. This also led to greater formalization and standardization — the communities on the East and West coasts had

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The New Yorker community appropriated California-style biker leather got appropriated in the mid-1950s, probably around the release of The Wild One (1953). Dedicated motorcycle clubs didn't emerge in New York City until the 1960s, though. The earliest documented bars frequented by leathermen were a

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in newspapers. Another fixture were private parties by local players. One facilitator of recurring parties between 1950 and 1953 was Bob Milne, who had moved from Boston to New York City after multiple altercations with law enforcement, including a conviction for homosexual acts in his home. He was

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Bars and clubs played a key role in the development of the gay leather scene, providing a gathering space for the community and a point of entry into the scene for newcomers, as well as turning leather into a consumable aesthetic and identity, often enforced by dress codes. They are considered the

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In Los Angeles, the gay leather scene developed from a broader biker-leather culture. Protective motorcycle clothing at this time was made of tough leather, usually cowhide or horsehide. Biker culture reflected a disaffection with the mainstream culture of post-World War II America, a disaffection

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Many leather bars and organizations hold annual pageant competitions, some of which serve as feeder competitions for larger regional, national, or international competitions such as International Mr. Leather and Mister Leather Europe. The following table includes a non-exhaustive list of past and

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are repeatedly described as influential for one's own sexual biography. Many men identified with his characters, who were pictured as mansculine and virile, thus defeating homophobic stereotypes of effeminacy. Tom's drawings were central to the development and dissemination of a more unified gay

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by Mark Thompson, which was published in 1992 and brought together different, sometimes contradictory perspectives on leather culture. The term "New Guard" or "New Leather" emerged in distinction from "Old Guard", with both often being portrayed as polar opposites—casual versus strict, informal

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Today, the term "Old Guard", "Old Leather" or "Old Guard Leather" has several meanings. Originally, "Old Guard" refers to the beginnings of the leather scene, from around the end of WWII in 1945 to the mid or late 1960s. Over the decades, this early period has been so strongly romanticized and

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in the mid-1980s. In the 1980s and early 1990s, lesbian leatherwomen were often involved in helping to care for gay leathermen who had been stricken with AIDS. In addition, leather title holders used their platform for fundraising purposes and advocacy work, and kinksters became more active in

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The emergence of gay leather as a coherent subculture can be traced back to the second half of the 1940s and the 1950s in major cities of the US. Later, it also developed in other urban centers in most industrialized capitalist countries. While gay leather developed 20 years after heterosexual

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The 1970s are considered the heyday of leather culture, also referred to as the Golden Age. During this time, the subculture grew by leaps and bounds worldwide, accompanied by increasing organization, diversification, improving networks and visibility. Leather bars became sponsors of leather

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practices based on military models and lived according to a strict ethics, that included initiation, brotherhood, discipline and the pursuit of excellence. This "pure form" of leather culture allegedly was increasingly pushed underground in the 1960s, when the first leather bars established

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In 2024, the San Francisco Recreation and Park Commission voted to name a park at Natoma and 11th streets Rachele Sullivan Park. Rachele Sullivan was a leather leader, and this vote means San Francisco is believed to be the first American city to name any public park after a leather leader.

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on May 28, 1989. DeBlase considered the flag to be a first draft and expected the community would suggest changes to the design. While some community members wanted a say in the final design, the majority embraced DeBlase's original design as-is. To this day, the flag has not undergone any

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existing rights groups, joining the fight against AIDS. On the one hand, the leather community faced increased hostility—both mainstream society and the vanilla queer community blamed the allegedly "extreme" and "unsafe" sex practices of gay kinksters for the outbreak of the epidemic, with

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called “NLA: Deaf Chapter”, which eventually became International Deaf Leather, was founded by Michael Felts, Philip Rubin, Bob Donaldson, Rolf Hagton, Jim Dunne, Bobby Andrascik and Charles Wilkinson. International Deaf Leather held contests for the titles International Ms. Deaf Leather,

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From the 1960s onward, leather bars became a central fixture of gay leather life, that provided a gathering space for the community and a point of entry into the scene for newcomers. Bars also played a key role in turning leather into a consumable aesthetic and identity, often enforced by

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With this context in mind, today "Old Guard" is often used pejoratively to describe older members of the leather community who hold conservative views which are seen as outdated or toxic, e.g. in terms of "correct" behavior or the inclusion of different groups of people within the scene.

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Artists and photographers have played a crucial role in the leather scene. In the early days, they created works that gave the emerging subculture a face and visualized taboo sexual fantasies, whether in the form of murals in bars and clubs, drawings and photo spreads in magazines (e.g.

1034:" below) In recent decades the leather community has been considered a subset of BDSM culture rather than a descendant of that culture. Even so, the most visibly organized SM community related to leather has been a subculture of leather, as evidenced by the American competition known as 190:

wearing jeans, a T-shirt, a leather jacket, and cloth biker cap that later inspired leather bike caps, played on pop-cultural fascination with the Hollister "riot" and promoted an image of masculine independence that resonated with some men who were dissatisfied with mainstream culture.

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There are leather clubs that are particularly committed to improving the rights of different marginalized groups within the leather scene through advocacy work and community building. The best known and most established is Onyx, which was founded 1995 for and by gay and bisexual

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The NCSF is committed to creating a political, legal and social environment in the US that advances equal rights for consenting adults who engage in alternative sexual and relationship expressions. The NCSF aims to advance the rights of, and advocate for consenting adults in the

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of the leather subculture. An example of this are the fictional works of Thom Magister. The Old Guard is usually portrayed as a secret close-knit community of like-minded men (e.g. in the form of motorcycle clubs), who developed a uniform hierarchical, high-protocol set of

3937:, the original leather biker of the group, frequently attended there. He sported an extravagant horseshoe moustache and wore his trademark leather outfit on and off stage. As he was the band's "biker" and a real-life fanatic, he kept his motorcycle parked inside his home. 1401:

In Chicago, the first club was Second City Motorcycle Club (1965), with Chuck Renslow as its first president. It built the foundation for Chicago Hellfire Club (1971), which had the express purpose of facilitating BDSM sex and has been sponsoring Inferno since 1976.

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in the United States) album. In a 1998 interview, Halford described the leather subculture as the inspiration for this look. Shortly after appropriating the leather look, Halford started appearing onstage on a roaring motor bike. Soon, the rest of the band followed.

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started The Carter-Johnson Leather Library, "a non-profit organization that consists of a traveling collection of thousands of books, magazines, posters, art, club and event pins, newspapers, event programs and ephemera showing leather, fetish, S/M erotic history."

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Particularly in the early days, motorcycle clubs were central social hubs, which not only provided a community for like-minded men, but also inconspicuous covers for the first BDSM associations. Pioneering motorcycle clubs formed in Los Angeles, namely the

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New York City, which was a hub for queer life at the time, had a small community of gay BDSM practitioners that was already established in the 1940s. It was organzied in the form of informal social networks, mostly through word of mouth and supplemented by

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Many artists who play a major cultural role in the leather scene are usually hardly known beyond this due to the erotic and pornographic content of their works. Exceptions are the photographer Robert Mapplethorpe and the illustrator Tom of Finland. The

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in many parts of the world, many practitioners were extremely cautious and secretive about their activities. As a result, only few sources have survived. The same is true for the early days of the leather scene after World War II. One exception is

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After Milne's departure in 1953 Frank Olson became a central player in New York City, mostly by facilitating contacts between practitioners via telephone and in leather-friendly bars, and organizing private parties in New York City and at

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district. The event is California's third-largest single-day, outdoor spectator event and the world's largest leather event and showcase for BDSM products and culture. Folsom Street Events now organizes many events each year including

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men in New York City, Chicago and San Francisco in subsequent years. A significant portion of the leather community consisted of queer servicemen and servicewomen returning from WWII, who were congregating in large US-cities after

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or other materials. They are not only preserving the physical items (many of which have been gifted, earned or inherited) but are also collecting the stories of their wearers. Therefore, bootblacks play a central role in the

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Many major cities around the world had or have leather bars and clubs, and in some cases a concentration of these associated a particular district with the leather scene, with the most well known being the "Miracle Mile" on

4024:, Mercury was wearing a full leather outfit, which he explained was inspired by clubs he frequented. Leather jackets, trousers, and accessories would feature prominently in his wardrobe for the rest of his touring career. 831:

started The Carter/Johnson Library & Collection, a “collection of thousands of books, magazines, posters, art, club and event pins, newspapers, event programs and ephemera showing leather, fetish, S/M erotic history."

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Motorcycle Club in Los Angeles, which split from the Satyrs in 1958. As well, the gay leather community that emerged from the motorcycle clubs also became the practical and symbolic location for men's open exploration of

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history and culture.” Renslow and DeBlase founded the museum in response to the AIDS crisis, during which the leather community's history and belongings were frequently lost or intentionally suppressed and discarded.

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increased regulation of leather bars sped up the ongoing gentrification in big cities, that already threatened their existence, so that the leather districts shrank rapidly after the explosive expansion of the 1970s.

301:. Several influencal authors, who would later write about the leather subculture, are known to have joined the scene during the mid-1960s, among them Joseph Bean, Guy Baldwin, and John Preston. As Guy Baldwin stated: 668:, Maidhof recruited several friends and leading members of Seattle's leather community including: Cookie Andrews-Hunt, Wayne Gloege, Billy Jefferson, Jan Lyon, George Nelson, and Vik Stump. Together, they formed the 5352:

This is the website of Avatar Club Los Angeles, Inc., a non-profit organization providing information and education about safe, sane, and consensual bondage, discipline, kinky and sadomasochistic (BDSM) sex between

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began to gain visibility as a subculture in their own right. Nowadays, bootblack stands as well as classes on bootblacking are common fixtures at events, contests, conferences and parties. Bootblacking is rooted in

75:, or other items. Wearing leather garments is one way that participants in this culture self-consciously distinguish themselves from mainstream sexual cultures. Many participants associate leather culture with 1381:

The leather scene has thrived on its organizations and clubs, from informal networks in the 1940s and motorcycle clubs in the 1950s and 1960s to today's organizations focused on information and education.

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European Confederation of Motorcycle Club (ECMC) was founded as first confederation of kink and leather clubs in Europe in 1974, with leatherman Felix Jones being an important figure in that development.

1010:, a trans man who identified as a lesbian at the time, was an activist in the San Francisco leather subculture, and is credited for defining the emergence of lesbian leather subculture. On June 13, 1978, 663:

contest inspired Steve Maidhof to organize a conference for members of the growing leather, SM, and fetish community, which would focus on education and political activism. To host this conference, named

3906:(although filming took place in the Hellfire Club), with extras recruited from the Mineshaft's patrons. Among other things, the movie features a fisting scene. The filming in 1979 massively hindered by 680:

staged "Living in Leather" gatherings until 2002. After a period of decline around the turn of the millennium, NLA-I has become more active again and runs a series of awards for fiction and non-fiction

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from 1995 to 2017, replacing original member Glenn. However, Glenn continued with management of the band. During his later years, he was known for storming the streets of New York City with his custom

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club in the world, to open up to lesbians; it was originally a gay men's club. It operated from 1975 to 1981, and reopened at another location from 1982 to 1984. Slater was also an early proponent of

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opened its doors as the first leather bar in the neighborhood. operated from 1962 to 1971 on the east corner of 4th Street and Harrison Street and was often frequented by motorcycle clubs like the

506:'s activism for women to be accepted within the gay leather scene in San Francisco during the late 1970s brought her to mainstream attention. Slater persuaded the management of San Francisco's 547:, who identified as a lesbian at the time, was an activist in the San Francisco leather subculture, and is credited for defining the emergence of lesbian leather subculture. On June 13, 1978, 210:

and elsewhere, contributed to the spread of the outlaw biker aesthetic among gay men. Motorcycle culture also reflected some men's disaffection with the cultures more organized around

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pavement markings through which the stones emerge, and bronze bootprints along the curb which honor 28 people who were an important part of the leather communities of San Francisco.

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Rubin, Gayle (2005). "Sites, settlements, and urban sex: archaeology and the study of gay leathermen in San Francisco, 1955-1995". In Schmidt, Robert A.; Voss, Barbara L. (eds.).

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The leather community doubled down on its efforts to depathologize consensual BDSM and end the stigmatization of BDSM practitioners. From 1987 onwards, leathermen Race Bannon and

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community. McGeorge had made no attempt to conceal his involvement in the BDSM and leather lifestyles; his full name appeared prominently on websites, and he said as much to the

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in San Francisco in 1966, other gay leather bars and establishments catering to the leather subculture followed creating a foundation for the growing gay leather community.

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previously developed differing traditions, such as whether S or M stood for sadist and masochist or for slave and master, or on which side keys were worn to indicate one's

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Communities. We pursue our vision through direct services, education, advocacy, and outreach, in conjunction with our partners, to directly benefit these communities.

79:(Bondage/Discipline, Dominance/Submission, Sado/Masochism, also called "SM" or "S&M") practices and its many subcultures. For some, black leather clothing is an 1952:

Most influencal leather bar in San Francisco in the second half of the 60s, part of the "Miracle Mile" on Folsom Street, also housed the shop A Taste of Leather.

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young leathermen and leatherwomen and kink/fetish/gear communities. In Europe, younger men have combined the aesthetic and exploration of sexual power with the

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covers the area which traditionally has had a concentration of leather bars and clubs, among others Fe-Be's, SF Eagle, The Stud, The Ramrod and the In Between.

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In New York City gay motorcycle clubs developed later than in California: Empire City MC (1964) was the first gay motorcycle club in New York, followed by the

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Originally part of the "Miracle Mile" on Folsom Street, owned by George Matson and Alexis Muir (Muir was a transgender woman then known as Richard Conroy).

139:(1909–1993) who lived in the US and extensively documented his kinky sexual encounters with other men. He also was part of a study of gay BDSM practices by 9516: 930:

The discourse about the Old Guard and its historical existence has mainly been conducted since the end of the 1980s. One example of this is the anthology

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The first leather bars had their origins in ordinary venues that were regularly patronized by groups of leathermen. The best-known example of this is the

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Parade since its establishment. By the mid-1980s, lesbian motorcycle enthusiasts in other cities besides San Francisco began to form motorcycle clubs.

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Although gay men are the most visible demographic of the leather community, there are numerous women who identify as leatherwomen – and women have the

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Achilles, Nancy. (1967). "The Development of the Homosexual Bar as an Institution". In Gagnon, John H. and William Simon. New York: Harper & Row.

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Many LGBT museums, archives and libraries collect material relating to leather communities, with many holding substantial collections, including the

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might otherwise have been situated to distribute. It was and still is the world's largest leather event and showcase for BDSM products and culture.

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he held the loose group together. In 1970 Milne opened his own leather bar with his lover Don Morrison, the Eagle's Nest, later renamed the Eagle.

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Distinct aspects of heavy metal fashion can be credited to various bands, but the band that takes the most credit for revolutionizing the look is

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were founded in 1981 in New York City. Both were committed to open enrollment, as well as a focus on education for newcomers. The principle of "

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safety demonstrations during the late 1970s, cultivating a space for women within the 'plurality of gay men' already present within the leather/

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motorcycle. Glenn, who was also referred to by the masses as "Leatherman", was named on People Magazine's 1979 list of most beautiful people.

2573:'s 1962 mural that was in the Tool Box (a gay leather bar), engraved standing stones that honor community leather institutions (one being the 1075:

In the 1980s and early 1990s, lesbian leatherwomen were often involved in helping to care for gay leathermen who had been stricken with AIDS.

5386: 4720: 1442:(1978–83) in San Francisco as the first lesbian BDSM organization in the US, Chicago Hellfire Club (1971), 15 Association in San Francisco, 7759: 8860: 5911: 824:

was the first out leatherman to be a state legislator in the United States; he served in the California State Assembly from 2002 to 2008.

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in 1962. The article described San Francisco as "The Gay Capital of America" and inspired many gay leathermen to move there. When the

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Don Morrison, Fire Island Pines Historical Society, Interview with New York’s original leather daddies: Frank Olson and Don Morrison

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Brook, J., Carlsson, C., and Peters, N. J. (1998). Reclaiming San Francisco: history, politics, culture. San Francisco: City Lights

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in 2009, named a historic landmark by the City of Atlanta as the first recognized and protected LGBTQ landmark in the Deep South.

818:, said that being into BDSM was no more likely to be a cross-cultural problem in the Middle East than any number of other issues. 4358: 4095: 3141: 688:

Participants representing S/M Leather Fetish in the March on Washington for Lesbian, Gay, and Bi Equal Rights and Liberation 1993

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in Chicago, which became a popular meeting place for the local scene in the late 1950s. After the unexpected death of the owner,

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Parade). By the mid-1980s, lesbian motorcycle enthusiasts in other cities besides San Francisco began to form motorcycle clubs.

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Stein, David (2016). "From S&M to M/s: How consensual slavery became visible in the gay leather community, 1950 to 1999".

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There have been several revival attempts of a leather culture modeled after the ideal of the Old Guard, such as John Weal's

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Stein, David (2004). "S/M's Copernican Revolution: From a closed world to the infinite universe". In Thompson, Mark (ed.).

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WAY." Renslow founded numerous leather and LGBT institutions, many of which were once located on Clark St, including the

2546: 1618: 1202: 939:, Jack Rinella and Joseph Bean have pointed out, both of those expressions existed from the start within the subculture. 869: 323:

bought it and reopened as a queer-owned leather bar in 1960. An iconic feature were the murals done by Renslow's partner

8787: 5745: 6791: 6357: 6271: 6114: 2684: 1482: 1348:(ToFF), which was founded in 1984, aims to promote erotic art and support erotic artists through scholarship programs. 1072:

By the mid-1980s, lesbian motorcycle enthusiasts in other cities besides San Francisco began to form motorcycle clubs.

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is about the murder of a leather titleholder during an international leather convention (fictional event based on

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men. More recently, Proteus Leather Club was founded in Europe for and by trans and non-binary people in leather.

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themselves and the leather scene received an enormous influx of newcomers, not all of whom were interested in the

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European and American fetish styles, it did so relatively isolated from those existing circles and organizations.

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being BLADeaf's home bar means the Baltimore Eagle is the world's first bar to home a deaf leather organization.

634:(Gay Sunshine Press, 1984) was the first collection of leather fiction, and the first collection of fiction from 7547: 6172: 9300: 7214: 7065: 6986: 6674: 4479: 4463: 2550: 1530:

Dozens of leather bars are named "Eagle" or some variant thereof; although they are independently owned, these

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also reflected and promoted the leather subcultural aesthetic. In 1975, Europe's biggest fetish event started,

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Magister, Thom (2004). "One among many: The seduction and training of a leatherman". In Thompson, Mark (ed.).

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With the establishment of local, regional and international bootblack contests in the 1990s and early 2000s,

607: 275: 7001:"Randy Henson's Brief History of The Seattle Eagle: Daring To Be Different For 35 Years – Seattle Gay Scene" 6143: 6030:

Chalkley, A. J.; Powell, G. E. (1983). "The clinical description of forty-eight cases of sexual fetishism".

4977:"Photograph of a bootblack at the Ramrod NYC in the Digital Collection of the Leather Archives & Museum" 1885:

First leather bar in San Francisco, managed by leatherman Tony Tavarossi, closed after a vice squad arrest.

9103: 7164: 6968: 3986:

began imitating the clothing of leathermen due to the association of such fashions with toughness. Typical

2605: 2368: 1590: 677: 669: 400: 348:

article entitled "Homosexuality In America," the first time a national publication reported on gay issues.

5881: 5797: 5473: 450:

by erotic foto series and illustrations, and written erotica. For example, the erotic novel Mr. Benson by

9976: 9593: 9236: 9131: 9111: 4792: 4586: 4194:

The Development of Sadomasochism as a Cultural Style in the Twentieth-Century United States. Dissertation

4075: 2513: 2494: 721: 8821: 9991: 9907: 9810: 9790: 9445: 5422: 5002: 3896:, represents a paradigm shift in the treatment of gay sexuality in Hollywood. It is based on the novel 2692: 2668: 2151: 1030:

that existed from 1978 to 1983 and was the first lesbian BDSM group in the United States. (More under "

765: 567:

that existed from 1978 to 1983 and was the first lesbian BDSM group in the United States. (More under "

5550: 9846: 9775: 9639: 9485: 9450: 9415: 9257: 7814: 7354:"Chuck Renslow, Chicago gay community icon and International Mr. Leather contest founder, dies at 87" 7047: 6406: 5318: 5194:"2014 Leather Hall of Fame Inductee Cynthia Slater (1945–1989)", Leather Hall of Fame Inductees List 4877: 4038: 3065: 2760: 2660: 2609: 2486: 2141: 2114: 1754: 1458: 1345: 1289: 1100: 1039: 1035: 992: 988: 660: 576: 572: 443:(1972) is considered the first non-fiction book about the leather scene. In 1974, the first issue of 412: 9475: 6243:"Press Release International Deaf Leather (IDL) to dissolve the organization. - The Leather Journal" 4216:

Our lives, our history: consensual master/slave relationships from ancient times to the 21st century

496:

in 1972. Also in Europe younger men combined the aesthetic and exploration of sexual power with the

9996: 9745: 9730: 9495: 6478: 5400: 3308: 3201: 1443: 1191: 856: 5684: 5208:

Call, Lewis. 2013. BDSM in American science fiction and fantasy. New York: Palgrave Macmillan. p.5

654:

Gay Roots: Twenty Years of Gay Sunshine - An Anthology of Gay History, Sex, Politics & Culture

9841: 9556: 9226: 7654: 5620: 5217:"THE JANUS SOCIETY: KISS AND DON'T TELL Cynthia Slater and the Catholic Priest", Jack Fritscher. 5195: 5121: 4080: 1438:

Over time more clubs were founded that were explicitly linked to leather and BDSM. These include

1195: 1043: 693: 176:

whose notoriety — and therefore appeal — expanded after the sensationalized news coverage of the

7384: 810:) before the weapons inspections in Iraq. Blix refused to accept McGeorge's resignation. Later, 10001: 9986: 9735: 9380: 9231: 7864: 6753: 6574: 4017: 3507: 2589: 2337: 1594: 1387: 843: 717:, excludes consensual BDSM from diagnosis when the sexual interests cause no harm or distress. 339: 258: 230: 153: 7676: 6528: 4976: 672:(NLA), which officially incorporated in the summer of 1986. In October, they hosted the first 9629: 9561: 9221: 8880: 4911:

Fritscher, Jack (2004). "Artist Chuck Arnett: His life/ our times". In Thompson, Mark (ed.).

4100: 2976: 2664: 1065:

In New York, there was LSM. Only members of the club were allowed to know that LSM stood for

649: 6388: 6324: 4531: 4264: 9915: 9531: 9440: 9385: 9200: 3930: 3903: 2585: 2411: 2185: 2029: 1753:(Etienne). Sponsor of the "Mr. Gold Coast" pageant (1972–78), which in 1979 developed into 1608: 1604: 897:

idealized, both in fictional works and by practitioners themselves, that it has become the

511: 416: 5960: 5368:

Rubin, Gayle (1998). "The Miracle Mile: South of Market and Gay Male Leather, 1962-1997".

8: 9634: 9571: 9455: 9420: 8683: 8664: 5775: 4749: 3987: 3236: 2628: 2269: 1432: 1365: 1264: 1126: 1112: 1058: 1057:

for the first time and has done so ever since (since 1994, the event has been called the

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for the first time and has done so ever since (since 1994, the event has been called the

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and may never be able to satisfy particular standards for completeness. You can help by

915:

aspects of the scene. This narrative often includes serious criticism of the increasing

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Mapplethorpe: assault with a deadly camera; a pop culture memoir; an outlaw reminscence

8617: 8015: 7059: 6980: 6055: 5986: 5938:"In a 1st, San Francisco park to bear name of leather leader :: Bay Area Reporter" 5219: 4318: 3031: 2799: 2636: 2624: 2578: 2574: 2178:

Internationally known leather club in the 1970s and 1980s, nicknamed 'The Cloneherne'.

2079: 1668: 1338:

Robert J. Pierce, Tom of Finland: The Case for Gay Art, The Soho News (6 February 1980)

1318: 1281: 1269: 1259: 1131: 972: 963:

aggressive or masculine sexual styles; people who love motorcycles; people involved in

636: 620: 445: 335: 206: 167: 37: 4366: 204:, whose suggestive drawings of well-endowed leather-clad muscle men were published in 51:

denotes practices and styles of dress organized around sexual activities that involve

9785: 9740: 9674: 9576: 9551: 9339: 9126: 9011: 8793: 8759: 8725: 8702: 8640: 8609: 8223: 7524: 7389: 7330: 7079: 6947: 6866: 6837: 6787: 6508: 6428: 6362: 6303: 6047: 5271: 5243: 5128: 5022: 4958: 4948: 4916: 4697: 4672: 4647: 4619: 4566: 4510: 4475: 4459: 4310: 4244: 4219: 2342: 1454: 1293: 1066: 8458: 8068: 7165:"Ringold Alley's Leather Memoir – Public Art and Architecture from Around the World" 6059: 6016:

Auf: easterberlin.de. Veröffentlicht von: Berlin Leder und Fetisch (BLF) e. V. URL:

5882:"Ringold Alley's Leather Memoir – Public Art and Architecture from Around the World" 4851: 4721:"Legendary Chicago businessman, activist Chuck Renslow dies - Windy City Times News" 458:

magazine between 1979 and 1980 with a claimed press run of 42,000 copies per issue.

342:

and Oedipus. The Tool Box became famous nationwide due to the June 1964 Paul Welch

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leather aesthetic, resulting in the so-called "clone look" of the 1970s and 1980s.

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Cover of the magazine Physique Pictorial volume 17 number 1 by Tom of Finland, 1968

131: 8697:

Holly George-Warren, Patricia Romanowski, Patricia Romanowski Bashe, Jon Pareles.

8563: 8093: 6220: 971:; and people who participate in large-scale cultural and marketing events such as 9872: 9805: 9720: 9715: 9644: 9566: 9410: 9390: 9355: 9320: 9159: 9154: 9068: 9048: 8955: 8935: 8910: 7358: 4009: 4003: 3962: 3946: 3907: 3884: 3539: 3268: 2593: 2062: 1917: 1701: 1577: 1531: 1514: 1301: 1151: 1011: 1007: 976: 916: 850: 645: 548: 544: 466: 462: 344: 305:"My introduction to leather life was really my introduction to leather bar life." 219: 215: 95: 72: 4616:

The bars are ours: histories and cultures of gay bars in America, 1960 and after

4563:

The bars are ours: histories and cultures of gay bars in America, 1960 and after

4306: 9887: 9826: 9619: 9470: 9405: 9335: 9038: 8990: 8975: 8970: 8925: 8920: 8915: 8678: 8659: 7842: 6702: 5999: 4070: 4055: 4034: 3999: 3942: 3922: 3918: 3914: 3796: 3106: 2608:

bathhouse. The city unveiled the new street sign during the anniversary of the

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became the hub of the leather subculture in the gay community in 1962 when the

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resort. Especially during the mid-60s crackdown on gay bars leading up to the

9981: 9970: 9954: 9892: 9877: 9765: 9664: 9603: 9435: 9395: 9375: 9286: 8613: 8541: 8433: 7964: 7106:"Leatherman's man: an interview with Chuck Renslow's biographer Owen Keehmen" 6870: 5753: 5026: 4962: 4314: 3991: 3938: 3862: 3844: 3764: 3751: 3554: 3520: 3485: 3472: 3448: 3356: 3321: 3286: 3249: 3214: 3160: 3049: 3014: 2960: 2925: 2891: 2854: 2841: 2819: 2779: 2744: 2656: 2649: 2640: 2620: 2597: 2554: 2533: 2505: 2427: 2394: 2356: 2320: 2286: 2251: 2207: 2194: 2130: 2045: 1941: 1906: 1874: 1842: 1810: 1778: 1746: 1730: 1684: 1614: 1600: 1559: 1548:

street — noting the closing of most of the leather bars once here, newspaper

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to the leather community and the care of the gear Leatherpeople use, such as

1027: 968: 964: 861: 846: 828: 783: 729: 564: 519: 507: 483: 424: 420: 368: 320: 243: 187: 140: 127: 103: 99: 7021: 6893:"COVID Won't Stop Atlanta's Most Iconic Leather Bar From Queering the South" 6807: 3925:

drew his inspiration for the four characters of Village People from the gay

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magazine) or comics, and made a decisive contribution to its dissemination.

923:

of the leather scene, as well as the introduction of safety principles like

9867: 9831: 9770: 9581: 9526: 9521: 9465: 9460: 9400: 9370: 9360: 8960: 8020: 7465: 6727: 6529:"Leather Leadership Conference, Inc. -- The Origin of Safe Sane Consensual" 4942: 4090: 4016:

began incorporating leather into his stage costumes during the band's 1978

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stated in 2015 that "the darkroom has been consigned to history because of

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Motorcycle Club in Los Angeles, which split from the Satyrs in 1958. Early

1370: 1360: 1305: 1285: 1273: 1243: 1164: 733: 538: 497: 474: 360: 324: 223: 211: 201: 182: 123: 41: 7809: 7597: 6051: 6043: 5530:

Ridinger, Robert (2005). "Founding of the Leather Archives & Museum".

5167: 5018: 4418: 9897: 9882: 9851: 9780: 9679: 9654: 9541: 9149: 8950: 8042: 6784:

Playing on the edge. 60 years of life in the gay leather and fetish scene

5912:"Honoring gay leather culture with art installation in SoMa alleyway – J" 5823: 5634: 5296:

The valley of the kings: leathermen in San Francisco, 1960-1990, Volume 2

4469: 4451: 4388: 4340: 4122: 3995: 3957: 3435: 2806: 2562: 1624: 1015: 1006:

women were visible during the early emergence of the leather subculture.

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Heavy Metal: The Music and Its Culture – Deena Weinstein – Google Boeken

8325: 7623: 6836:(Rev. & updated, 1. Alyson Books ed.). New York: Alyson Books. 6780:

Spielen am Rand. 60 Jahre Leben in der schwulen Leder- und Fetisch-Szene

6074: 5155: 4322: 4290: 1083:

In 1986, Baltimore Leather Association of the Deaf (BLADeaf), the first

9659: 9536: 9195: 8621: 8146: 6944:

Beyond shame: reclaiming the abandoned history of radical gay sexuality

6917: 6645: 5824:"Leather & Grace | Unitarian Universalists for BDSM Awareness" 5401:"Finding Aid to the National Leather Association Collection of Records" 4941:

Baim, Tracy; Keehnen, Owen; Kelley, William B.; Harper, Jorjet (2011).

4392: 4065: 2910: 2873: 2566: 1550: 999:, who has a leather pride sticker prominently displayed on her guitar. 815: 465:

had a huge leather scene with several leather clubs in the area around

392:, which communicated sexual preferences through colored handkerchiefs. 389: 298: 91: 8069:"Mr. Fire Island Leather Contest Marks Its 20th Anniversary on May 19" 7784: 7302: 5266:

Levine, Martin P.; Nardi, Peter M.; Gagnon, John H. (18 August 1997).

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bathhouse and the Chicago Eagle all were located on a street block of

1117: 9836: 9546: 9190: 9185: 9088: 9083: 8985: 8589: 8151: 7760:"Mr Leather UK – The history, the current situation and our position" 7572: 6628: 6176: 4667:

Baldwin, Guy (2004). "A second coming out". In Thompson, Mark (ed.).

4027: 4021: 3983: 3893: 3716: 3467: 3273: 2947: 2490: 2190: 1541: 1487: 996: 912: 821: 811: 799: 769: 492:

MSC Hamburg began hosting an annual "international leather-party" in

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Early clubs in Sydney included the South Pacific Motor Club (SPMC).

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in particular campaigned for the removal of BDSM practices from the

9795: 9725: 9684: 9116: 9078: 9026: 8980: 8511:"Sito ufficiale di Mr. Leatherman Italy - Mister Leatherman Italia" 8510: 8123: 7889: 7048:"The Stud's return: historic bar's triumphant third time's a charm" 6834:

Out of the past: gay & lesbian history from 1869 to the present

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Leathersex: a guide for the curious outsider and the serious player

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serves special nights for the Mexican leather community since 1995.

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Artifacts from motorcycle clubs and leather bars on display at the

356: 8299: 7939: 7650:"82 Photos to Celebrate the Fuzzy, Adorable Mr. Leather Bear 2018" 6017: 4825: 1699:. Featured in "Homosexuality in America", an article published by 1398:

clubs included the Warlocks (1960) and the California Motor Club.

676:(LIL) conference. Adding "International" to its name in 1991, the 500:

movement and social-fraternal organizations, from the late 1970s.

489: 411:

held in 1972 in the Gold Coast in Chicago, which was rebranded as

9920: 9649: 9511: 9205: 8945: 8896: 8536: 8198: 8119:"How "The Eagle" became one of the most recognized gay bar names" 7733: 6627:

IJsselmuide, Hans van der Beek en Sherida van (11 January 2015).

6601:"How "The Eagle" became one of the most recognized gay bar names" 5423:"Creating Change Conference announces awards | Dallas Voice" 4692:

Preston, John (2004). "What happened?". In Thompson, Mark (ed.).

4192:

Bienvenu, Robert (1998). "Development of the Gay Leather style".

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has a leather pride sticker prominently displayed on her guitar.

3849: 3624: 3611: 3589: 3413: 2731: 2498: 2459: 2227: 2019: 2008: 1975: 1962: 1742: 1717: 1628: 1582: 1391: 1003: 807: 755:

was founded; the NCSF's mission as described on its web page is:

725: 612: 515: 493: 238: 83: 52: 6661: 5720: 4343:. "The Miracle Mile: South of Market and Leather, 1962–1997" in 1049:

In 1979 the newly formed San Francisco lesbian motorcycle club,

582:

In 1979 the newly formed San Francisco lesbian motorcycle club,

9925: 9624: 9021: 8965: 8849: 7548:"Mr. Missouri Leather 2020 to Celebrate 37 Years of Leathermen" 3694: 3659: 3576: 3400: 3343: 3093: 2083: 1995: 1565: 1555: 1439: 1019: 556: 8173: 6100:"Roll out the RED CARPET. Introducing Judy Tallwing McCarthey" 4696:. Los Angeles: Daedalus Publishing Company. pp. 210–220. 4671:. Los Angeles: Daedalus Publishing Company. pp. 169–178. 4033:

The satirical mystery novel The Killer wore Leather (2013) by

1853:

First leather bar in New York City that imposed a dress code.

1300:

In June 1989 the flag was used by the leather contingent in a

802:, hoping to preserve the credibility of his organization (the 698:

Second National March on Washington for Lesbian and Gay Rights

575:(IML, established 1979), and SM in the UK (established 1981). 9180: 9058: 9031: 9016: 8995: 7890:"Mr. Palm Springs Leather Contestant - PS Leather Pride 2023" 6650:

The Amsterdam Bar Culture And Changing Gay/Lesbian Identities

4243:. Los Angeles: Daedalus Publishing Company. pp. 91–105. 3979: 3826: 3729: 3681: 1916:

Owned by leatherman Bob Milne, became the model for numerous

1466: 1147: 714: 606:

The leather community was hit hard by several effects of the

526:

activists and educators during the late 1970s. Slater hosted

68: 8351: 7706:"Leather Life: International Ms Leather Celebrates 20 Years" 5700:"Your Call Election Special: Open line to Senator Mark Leno" 5343: 4822:

ONE National Gay & Lesbian Archives at the USC Libraries

2230:. Predecessor leather bars in the same building since 1968. 1486:

Cockring, now closed, was a popular leather and sex club in

327:(pen name Etienne), who also designed its logo and posters. 9309: 9053: 9043: 5242:. North Melbourne, Vic., Australia: Spinifex. p. 130. 4127:

In Changing Times: Gay Men and Lesbians Encounter HIV/AIDS,

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with the stripes of the leather pride flag for their logo.

806:

Monitoring, Verification and Inspection Commission, called

798:

and other media. He did, however, offer his resignation to

791: 761: 745: 523: 432: 247: 119: 76: 64: 60: 8865: 7914: 5381: 5379: 4772: 4770: 2516:“as a community archives, library, and museum of Leather, 2107:

London's longest running, and last remaining leather bar.

1632: 1562:, the first leather bar in the country opened around 1955. 736:

as a “community archives, library, and museum of leather,

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