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which was very inaccurate, however, because Keil himself was not able to penetrate very far into the region. That they had been fortunate enough on 18 September to succeed in making three
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218:
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at 3,100 metres with 9 emergency beds. From the hut the ascent takes about 3 hours according to the literature. The west arête requires gentle climbing at
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222:
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running away from the top in all four direction of the compass. Seen from the northeast, the Großer Bärenkopf, has the shape of a wide, prominent,
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col, then heads east along the west arête to the summit of the Großer Bärenkopf. In the
Gruberscharte col, in the north arête of the peak, lies a
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492:. Since 1925 the south arête has also been used as an alternative route and is classified as UIAA grade II. Climbing routes used in 1925 by
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299:- covered mountain. From the other directions it looks like a rocky peak. The mountain was first climbed on 18 September 1869 by Munich
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425:. In fact, they were standing on an unknown peak which was still not shown on contemporary maps and was first named in 1891 as the
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metres high; the west summit reaches a height of 3,353 m. The two peaks are about 300 metres away from one another. There are
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429:. They route then continued along the east arête to the peak known today as the "Großer Bärenkopf". They also climbed the
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472:. From the Oberwalder Hut the route runs in a northerly direction as a serious glacier trail across the
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was first used in 1871 and has proved to be the easiest climb. Possible bases for the tour include the
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was published in 1891 and, for the first time, clearly enabled the mountains to be allocated names.
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315:
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57:
30:
Großer Bärenkopf (left), Mittlerer and
Vorderer Bärenkopf (center) and Schattseitköpfl (right)
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at 3,234 metres. To the south, on the far side of the
Bockkarkees, lies the 3,115-metre-high
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511:
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on their exploratory tour, that took them on the same day to the neighbouring peaks of the
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to the north. Today the Großer Bärenkopf is often climbed during a crossing from the
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530:, Vol III, Verlag des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenvereins, Berlin, 1894
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258:
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25:
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over a glacier to the
Keilscharte notch and along the west arête to the summit
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453:
438:
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Even today, the Großer Bärenkopf can only be reached as part of a serious
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up the southwest face are rarely used today due to the dangers involved.
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with a height of 3,124 metres. The nearest significant settlements are
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at 3,348 metres on the line of the east arête, separated by the col of
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with appropriate equipment and experience of glaciers. The present
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from the Kaprun side up to a mountain which they thought was the
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385:("Middle Bear's Head", 3,358 m) and roughly north of it the
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273:. The mountain lies exactly on the border between the states of
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Zeitschrift des
Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenvereins
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on the line of the north arête and separated by the col of
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349:. To the east, north and west lie the western and eastern
433:. For orientation they only had the 1859 Tauern map by
257:("White Bear's Head") is a twin-topped mountain in the
353:, which climb up to the summit; to the south is the
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584:, Bergverlag Rother, Munich, 2003, pp. 374 ff.,
357:. Neighbouring peaks are the 3,425-metre-high
342:The Großer Bärenkopf is surrounded by heavily
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377:. Along the west arête, separated by the
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596:
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619:Mountains of Salzburg (federal state)
419:"in the best possible, clear weather"
365:at a height of 3,080 metres; and the
314:Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell from
571:, Vol III, Berlin, 1894, pp. 202 ff.
468:(2,973 m), northwest and above
337:
516:, Bergverlag Rother, Munich, 2003,
13:
408:
405:, 11 kilometres to the northeast.
14:
635:
582:Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe
464:above it and to the east, or the
229:, Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell
381:saddle (3,187 m), lies the
155:
148:
24:
558:, Vol. III, Munich, 1872, p. 68
403:Fusch an der Großglocknerstraße
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561:
549:
1:
569:Die Erschließung der Ostalpen
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528:Die Erschließung der Ostalpen
93:Alpine mountains above 3000 m
239:High mountain tour from the
7:
536:1:25,000 series, Sheet 40,
441:only became clear when the
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253:("Great Bear's Head") or
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604:Alpine three-thousanders
458:Heinrich Schwaiger Haus
413:The route taken by the
332:Heinrich Schwaiger Haus
624:Mountains of Carinthia
431:Hinterer Bratschenkopf
320:Hinterer Bratschenkopf
609:Mountains of the Alps
460:at 2,802 metres, the
393:, about 9 kilometres
271:Austrian Central Alps
263:Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
217:18 September 1869 by
122:47.13083°N 12.73139°E
397:to the north in the
316:Kals am Großglockner
504:Literature and maps
306:, Prague merchant,
284:The main summit is
118: /
512:Alpenvereinsführer
450:high mountain tour
383:Mittlere Bärenkopf
127:47.13083; 12.73139
62:3,396-3,094 m
36:Highest point
470:Franz Josefs Höhe
395:as the crow flies
338:Location and area
269:, a range in the
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589:
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567:Eduard Richter:
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526:Eduard Richter:
474:Wasserfallwinkel
423:Großer Bärenkopf
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255:Weißer Bärenkopf
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163:Großer Bärenkopf
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52:(11,142 ft)
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19:Großer Bärenkopf
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534:Alpine Club map
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443:Alpine Club map
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409:Bases and tours
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312:mountain guides
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251:Große Bärenkopf
227:mountain guides
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614:Glockner Group
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538:Glocknergruppe
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514:Glocknergruppe
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494:Hubert Peterka
466:Oberwalder Hut
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328:Oberwalder Hut
259:Glockner Group
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241:Oberwalder Hut
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197:Glockner Group
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439:first ascents
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363:Gruberscharte
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351:Bärenkopfkees
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490:UIAA grade I
481:
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462:Mooserbodens
454:normal route
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417:in 1869 ran
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387:Schwarzköpfl
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308:Johann Stüdl
304:Karl Hofmann
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235:Normal route
223:Johann Stüdl
219:Karl Hofmann
213:First ascent
191:Parent range
580:Willi End:
509:Willi End:
482:Keilscharte
478:Bockkarkees
379:Keilscharte
371:Dockscharte
355:Bockkarkees
288:m (AA)
286:3,396
267:High Tauern
201:High Tauern
125: /
100:Coordinates
76:1.7 km
49:m (AA)
47:3,396
598:Categories
544:References
498:Hans Majer
435:Franz Keil
113:12°43′53″E
110:47°07′51″N
58:Prominence
427:Glockerin
415:Alpinists
375:Breitkopf
367:Hohe Dock
359:Klockerin
344:crevassed
324:Klockerin
301:Alpinists
279:Carinthia
170:Carinthia
138:Geography
81:Klockerin
72:Isolation
42:Elevation
588:1380 ff.
476:and the
347:glaciers
330:and the
275:Salzburg
265:of the
207:Climbing
174:Salzburg
66:Riffltor
480:to the
399:Pinzgau
261:in the
178:Austria
88:Listing
78:→
64:↓
520:
401:, and
391:Kaprun
310:, and
293:arêtes
486:bothy
518:ISBN
496:and
322:and
297:firn
277:and
249:The
225:and
172:and
600::
586:Rz
334:.
281:.
221:,
199:,
176:,
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