83:
3908:
2983:. As the flow is turbulent, its mean profile is logarithmic, and its second derivative is thus negative. This is precisely the condition for the mean flow to impart its energy to the interface through the critical layer. This supply of energy to the interface is destabilizing and causes the amplitude of the wave on the interface to grow in time. As in other examples of linear instability, the growth rate of the disturbance in this phase is exponential in time.
4796:
4817:
3897:
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71:
50:
38:
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The air-water interface is now endowed with a surface roughness due to the capillary-gravity waves, and a second phase of wave growth takes place. A wave established on the surface either spontaneously as described above, or in laboratory conditions, interacts with the turbulent mean flow in a manner
3006:
By propagating surface gravity water waves, researchers were able to recreate the energy wave functions of an inverted harmonic oscillator, a system that serves as an analog for black hole physics. The experiment demonstrated how the free evolution of these classical waves in a controlled laboratory
3002:
Surface gravity waves have been recognized as a powerful tool for studying analog gravity models, providing experimental platforms for phenomena typically found in black hole physics. In an experiment, surface gravity waves were utilized to simulate phase space horizons, akin to event horizons of
2920:
wind blows over the surface. When a flow is turbulent, one observes a randomly fluctuating velocity field superimposed on a mean flow (contrast with a laminar flow, in which the fluid motion is ordered and smooth). The fluctuating velocity field gives rise to fluctuating
284:
cause the waves to break, transferring their momentum to the mean flow. This transfer of momentum is responsible for the forcing of the many large-scale dynamical features of the atmosphere. For example, this momentum transfer is partly responsible for the driving of the
1515:
2254:
740:
981:
1584:
2925:(both tangential and normal) that act on the air-water interface. The normal stress, or fluctuating pressure acts as a forcing term (much like pushing a swing introduces a forcing term). If the frequency and wavenumber
2478:
3003:
black holes. This experiment observed logarithmic phase singularities, which are central to phenomena like
Hawking radiation, and the emergence of Fermi-Dirac distributions, which parallel quantum mechanical systems .
2812:
509:
The gravity wave represents a perturbation around a stationary state, in which there is no velocity. Thus, the perturbation introduced to the system is described by a velocity field of infinitesimally small amplitude,
1083:
2160:
2578:
489:
3226:"Inferring neutral winds in the ionospheric transition region from atmospheric-gravity-wave traveling-ionospheric-disturbance (AGW-TID) observations with the EISCAT VHF radar and the Nordic Meteor Radar Cluster"
2371:
1356:
1932:
2085:
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1418:
833:
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2302:
2990:
process can continue until an equilibrium is reached, or until the wind stops transferring energy to the waves (i.e., blowing them along) or when they run out of ocean distance, also known as
595:
188:
of the Earth's ponds, lakes, seas and oceans are predominantly between 0.3 and 30 seconds (corresponding to frequencies between 3 Hz and .03 Hz). Shorter waves are also affected by
2737:
2406:
1687:
1426:
1309:
2889:
2518:
2026:
423:
2618:
1120:
2676:
1179:
870:
3415:
Alexander, P., A. de la Torre, and P. Llamedo (2008), Interpretation of gravity wave signatures in GPS radio occultations, J. Geophys. Res., 113, D16117, doi:10.1029/2007JD009390.
1725:
1655:
1201:
1148:
783:
2175:
2638:
383:
360:
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environment can reveal the formation of horizons and singularities, shedding light on fundamental aspects of gravitational theories and quantum mechanics.
885:
4536:
607:
2411:
4526:
3585:
3431:
2746:
996:
2095:
3344:
Rozenman, Georgi Gary; Ullinger, Freyja; Zimmermann, Matthias; Efremov, Maxim A.; Shemer, Lev; Schleich, Wolfgang P.; Arie, Ady (2024-07-16).
1526:
2525:
436:
2909:
play an essential role in this effect. There are two distinct mechanisms involved, called after their proponents, Phillips and Miles.
2312:
1314:
4442:
1872:
4809:
3857:
3625:
2816:
The group velocity is one half the phase velocity. A wave in which the group and phase velocities differ is called dispersive.
2905:
Wind waves, as their name suggests, are generated by wind transferring energy from the atmosphere to the ocean's surface, and
2042:
1737:
3454:
3407:
3107:
1209:
2165:
The perturbed pressures are evaluated in terms of streamfunctions, using the horizontal momentum equation of the linearised
1810:
1375:
4089:
3545:
3578:
3496:
2967:, and the wave grows in amplitude. As with other resonance effects, the amplitude of this wave grows linearly with time.
2928:
1592:
293:, it is thought to be the major driving force of the Semi-Annual Oscillation. Thus, this process plays a key role in the
3979:
4684:
4111:
3999:
796:
4531:
3802:
308:, and are sometimes confused with them, but the formation mechanism is different. Atmospheric gravity waves reaching
2828:: the phase and group velocities are identical and independent of wavelength and frequency. When the water depth is
3989:
3949:
2689:
2262:
1510:{\displaystyle {\frac {\partial \eta }{\partial t}}+u'{\frac {\partial \eta }{\partial x}}=w'\left(\eta \right).\,}
4719:
3705:
3065:
2963:
of this forcing term match a mode of vibration of the capillary-gravity wave (as derived above), then there is a
2379:
1660:
1273:
4799:
4392:
3571:
2838:
2485:
1943:
390:
2587:
1091:
789:-direction. Next, in an initially stationary incompressible fluid, there is no vorticity, and the fluid stays
17:
513:
141:. The restoration of the fluid to equilibrium will produce a movement of the fluid back and forth, called a
3847:
2645:
1153:
838:
1702:
3428:"Notes on Gravity Waves â Operational Forecasting and Detection of Gravity Waves Weather and Forecasting"
3060:
3035:
1631:
305:
3907:
3224:
GĂŒnzkofer, F.; Pokhotelov, D.; Stober, G.; Mann, I.; Vadas, S.L.; Becker, E.; et al. (2023-10-18).
2249:{\displaystyle {\frac {\partial u'}{\partial t}}=-{\frac {1}{\rho }}{\frac {\partial p'}{\partial x}}\,}
1184:
4044:
286:
194:
1125:
752:
217:
wave interaction with the wind waves, have periods longer than the accompanying wind-generated waves.
4579:
3984:
3944:
3193:
3171:
Fritts, D.C.; Alexander, M.J. (2003), "Gravity wave dynamics and effects in the middle atmosphere",
4709:
4084:
4074:
4014:
3650:
3620:
2987:
2825:
312:
are responsible for the generation of traveling ionospheric disturbances and could be observed by
4746:
4729:
4566:
4059:
3924:
3862:
3852:
3745:
3530:
3481:
2824:
Gravity waves traveling in shallow water (where the depth is much less than the wavelength), are
4842:
4741:
4679:
4106:
3792:
3188:
138:
74:
4574:
4556:
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238:
1203:
is small in magnitude. If no fluid is to leak out of the bottom, we must have the condition
82:
4761:
4594:
4297:
4154:
4019:
3730:
3311:
3266:
3180:
3135:
431:
is the acceleration due to gravity. When surface tension is important, this is modified to
294:
8:
4756:
4641:
4636:
4362:
4034:
3994:
3710:
3449:. Waltham, Massachusetts: Elsevier Academic Press (International Geophysics Volume 102).
3055:
2036:
746:
298:
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3184:
3139:
3050:
4699:
4412:
4402:
4367:
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4149:
3327:
3282:
3206:
3153:
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2922:
368:
345:
107:
54:
28:
34:
Wave in or at the interface between fluids where gravity is the main equilibrium force
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4771:
4714:
4694:
4377:
4342:
4277:
4257:
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4129:
3817:
3675:
3450:
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3367:
3345:
3331:
3286:
3210:
3103:
2991:
1728:
976:{\displaystyle \psi \left(x,z,t\right)=e^{ik\left(x-ct\right)}\Psi \left(z\right),\,}
206:
3157:
4736:
4704:
4674:
4483:
4468:
4337:
4272:
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3934:
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3357:
3319:
3274:
3237:
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3143:
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325:
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122:
tries to restore equilibrium. An example of such an interface is that between the
4541:
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4352:
4312:
4204:
4174:
4024:
3974:
3884:
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3775:
3700:
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3095:
2166:
1696:
266:
265:. At first, waves propagate through the atmosphere without appreciable change in
189:
3515:
NASA Astronomy
Picture of the Day: Airglow Ripples over Tibet (20 November 2022)
159:
the body of the water (such as between parts of different densities) are called
4651:
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4551:
4546:
4382:
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4317:
4049:
3939:
3760:
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3670:
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598:
340:
200:
178:
95:
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3471:
3323:
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3242:
3225:
735:{\displaystyle {\textbf {u}}'=(u'(x,z,t),w'(x,z,t))=(\psi _{z},-\psi _{x}),\,}
4836:
4821:
4669:
4589:
4478:
4397:
4372:
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4237:
4144:
4039:
3916:
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3299:
3020:
2912:
In the work of
Phillips, the ocean surface is imagined to be initially flat (
258:
161:
3123:
2473:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle c^{2}\rho D\Psi =g\Psi \rho +\sigma k^{2}\Psi .}
1937:
However, this condition refers to the total pressure (base+perturbed), thus
1657:
Using the normal-mode and streamfunction representations, this condition is
4776:
4724:
4664:
4615:
4493:
4488:
4463:
4447:
4422:
4139:
4029:
3969:
3755:
3640:
3514:
3427:
3388:
2807:{\displaystyle c_{g}={\frac {1}{2}}{\sqrt {\frac {g}{k}}}={\frac {1}{2}}c.}
2640:
and the wavenumber, the gravity wave angular frequency can be expressed as
990:
is a spatial wavenumber. Thus, the problem reduces to solving the equation
790:
281:
250:
232:
185:
152:
2684:
of a wave (that is, the speed at which a wave packet travels) is given by
1078:{\displaystyle \left(D^{2}-k^{2}\right)\Psi =0,\,\,\,\ D={\frac {d}{dz}}.}
4766:
4498:
4427:
4292:
4232:
4199:
4189:
4184:
4069:
4004:
3964:
3954:
3929:
3812:
3785:
3765:
3725:
3690:
3202:
3148:
2155:{\displaystyle p=g\eta \rho -\sigma \eta _{xx},\qquad {\text{on }}z=0.\,}
597:
Because the fluid is assumed incompressible, this velocity field has the
329:
246:
3563:
3410:
3257:
Phillips, O. M. (1957), "On the generation of waves by turbulent wind",
1579:{\displaystyle {\frac {\partial \eta }{\partial t}}=w'\left(0\right),\,}
4584:
4432:
4407:
4302:
4282:
4209:
4194:
4179:
4169:
4134:
4054:
3874:
3869:
3832:
3827:
3822:
3720:
3346:"Observation of a phase space horizon with surface gravity water waves"
3070:
2031:(As usual, The perturbed quantities can be linearized onto the surface
363:
309:
290:
254:
123:
4816:
3122:
Bromirski, Peter D.; Sergienko, Olga V.; MacAyeal, Douglas R. (2010),
2971:
described by Miles. This is the so-called critical-layer mechanism. A
4656:
4518:
4503:
4417:
4262:
4101:
4096:
3879:
3807:
3735:
3655:
3645:
3602:
2964:
2917:
2900:
2573:{\displaystyle c={\sqrt {{\frac {g}{k}}+{\frac {\sigma k}{\rho }}}}.}
1801:
484:{\displaystyle c={\sqrt {{\frac {g}{k}}+{\frac {\sigma k}{\rho }}}},}
277:
166:
131:
87:
1088:
We work in a sea of infinite depth, so the boundary condition is at
42:
4751:
4473:
4332:
4224:
4214:
4159:
3635:
3075:
3040:
872:
Next, because of the translational invariance of the system in the
273:
269:
262:
242:
119:
2997:
137:
A gravity wave results when fluid is displaced from a position of
4620:
4610:
3780:
3750:
3525:
3476:
3343:
3124:"Transoceanic infragravity waves impacting Antarctic ice shelves"
1366:
are constants to be determined from conditions at the interface.
170:
115:
2408:
and using the normal-mode representation, this relation becomes
147:. Gravity waves on an airâsea interface of the ocean are called
4327:
3740:
877:
313:
49:
4689:
4508:
4287:
4242:
3302:(1957), "On the generation of surface waves by shear flows",
3223:
2366:{\displaystyle c\rho D\Psi =g\eta \rho -\sigma \eta _{xx}.\,}
1351:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle z\in \left(-\infty ,\eta \right)}
241:, gravity waves are a mechanism that produce the transfer of
127:
111:
103:
2306:
Putting this last equation and the jump condition together,
272:. But as the waves reach more rarefied (thin) air at higher
4121:
1927:{\displaystyle p\left(z=\eta \right)=-\sigma \eta _{xx}.\,}
749:. In this derivation it suffices to work in two dimensions
174:
169:
on the water surface are examples of gravity waves, as are
3121:
3402:(Berkeley Physics Course, Vol. 3), (McGraw-Hill, 1968)
75:
Detailed animation of water wave motion (CC-BY-NC-ND 4.0)
2080:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle P=-\rho gz+{\text{Const.}},}
1782:{\displaystyle p\left(z=\eta \right)=-\sigma \kappa ,\,}
37:
3447:
1260:{\displaystyle u=D\Psi =0,\,\,{\text{on}}\,z=-\infty .}
3472:"Time Lapse of Gravity Wave Courtesy The Weather Nutz"
2932:
2591:
2489:
2415:
2383:
2266:
2046:
1856:{\displaystyle \kappa =\nabla ^{2}\eta =\eta _{xx}.\,}
1706:
1664:
1635:
1596:
1413:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle z=\eta \left(x,t\right)\,}
1379:
1318:
1277:
1188:
1157:
1129:
1095:
3395:. American Meteorological Society (15 December 2014).
2931:
2841:
2749:
2692:
2648:
2626:
2620:
is the phase speed in terms of the angular frequency
2590:
2528:
2488:
2414:
2382:
2315:
2265:
2178:
2098:
2045:
1946:
1875:
1813:
1804:
of the interface, which in a linear approximation is
1740:
1705:
1663:
1634:
1595:
1529:
1429:
1378:
1317:
1276:
1212:
1187:
1156:
1128:
1094:
999:
888:
841:
799:
755:
610:
516:
439:
393:
371:
348:
2894:
304:
The effect of gravity waves in clouds can look like
257:. Gravity waves are generated in the troposphere by
41:
Surface gravity wave, breaking on an ocean beach in
2956:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle \left(\omega ,k\right)}
1621:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle w'\left(\eta \right)\,}
2955:
2883:
2806:
2731:
2670:
2632:
2612:
2572:
2512:
2472:
2400:
2365:
2296:
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2154:
2079:
2020:
1926:
1855:
1781:
1719:
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1649:
1620:
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1509:
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1350:
1303:
1259:
1195:
1173:
1142:
1114:
1077:
975:
864:
827:
777:
734:
589:
483:
417:
377:
354:
184:The period of wind-generated gravity waves on the
4537:North West Shelf Operational Oceanographic System
3426:Koch, Steven; Cobb, Hugh D. III; Stuart, Neil A.
828:{\displaystyle \nabla \times {\textbf {u}}'=0.\,}
64:Nonfree image: detailed animation of a water wave
4834:
1699:, the pressure difference over the interface at
4527:Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis
3170:
2998:Analog Gravity Models and Surface Gravity Waves
220:
2376:Substituting the second interfacial condition
27:For the phenomenon of general relativity, see
3579:
3521:"Time-lapse video of gravity waves over Iowa"
2732:{\displaystyle c_{g}={\frac {d\omega }{dk}},}
2297:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle p'=\rho cD\Psi .}
3102:, Cambridge University Press, p. 205,
2401:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle c\eta =\Psi \,}
1682:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle c\eta =\Psi \,}
319:
3586:
3572:
3497:"Gallery of cloud gravity waves over Iowa"
3425:
1304:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle \Psi =Ae^{kz}}
1150:, and the disturbed or wavy surface is at
3593:
3361:
3241:
3192:
3147:
3094:
2884:{\displaystyle c_{p}=c_{g}={\sqrt {gh}}.}
2513:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle \Psi =e^{kz}}
2396:
2362:
2245:
2151:
2021:{\displaystyle \left=-\sigma \eta _{xx}.}
1923:
1852:
1778:
1677:
1645:
1616:
1575:
1506:
1408:
1241:
1235:
1234:
1047:
1046:
1045:
972:
861:
824:
731:
418:{\displaystyle c={\sqrt {\frac {g}{k}}},}
3256:
2613:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle c=\omega /k}
1115:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle z=-\infty .}
81:
48:
36:
2975:forms at a height where the wave speed
876:-direction, it is possible to make the
785:, where gravity points in the negative
497:is the surface tension coefficient and
90:, Western Australia, as seen from space
14:
4835:
3858:one-dimensional Saint-Venant equations
1693:Pressure relation across the interface
835:In the streamfunction representation,
590:{\displaystyle (u'(x,z,t),w'(x,z,t)).}
198:and (if hardly influenced by gravity)
3567:
3444:
3298:
2671:{\displaystyle \omega ={\sqrt {gk}}.}
1174:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle z=\eta ,}
865:{\displaystyle \nabla ^{2}\psi =0.\,}
505:Details of the phase-speed derivation
4805:
1720:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle z=\eta }
1689:, the second interfacial condition.
1650:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle z=0.\,}
809:
614:
24:
4685:National Oceanographic Data Center
4112:World Ocean Circulation Experiment
4000:Global Ocean Data Analysis Project
3419:
3398:Crawford, Frank S., Jr. (1968).
2490:
2463:
2441:
2432:
2393:
2325:
2287:
2236:
2223:
2195:
2182:
1821:
1674:
1541:
1533:
1472:
1464:
1441:
1433:
1333:
1278:
1251:
1222:
1196:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle \eta }
1105:
1033:
955:
843:
800:
25:
4854:
4532:Global Sea Level Observing System
3464:
2895:Generation of ocean waves by wind
1420:, the kinematic condition holds:
86:Wind-driven gravity waves in the
4815:
4804:
4795:
4794:
3990:Geochemical Ocean Sections Study
3906:
3895:
2819:
1628:is linearized on to the surface
1143:{\displaystyle \scriptstyle z=0}
778:{\displaystyle \left(x,z\right)}
155:), while gravity waves that are
69:
4720:Ocean thermal energy conversion
4443:VineâMatthewsâMorley hypothesis
3533:from the original on 2021-12-11
3484:from the original on 2021-12-11
2979:equals the mean turbulent flow
2136:
3337:
3292:
3250:
3217:
3164:
3115:
3088:
1122:The undisturbed surface is at
745:where the subscripts indicate
725:
696:
690:
687:
669:
655:
637:
626:
581:
578:
560:
546:
528:
517:
362:of a linear gravity wave with
13:
1:
3381:
2741:and thus for a gravity wave,
334:
3980:El NiñoâSouthern Oscillation
3950:CraikâLeibovich vortex force
3706:Luke's variational principle
3128:Geophysical Research Letters
1520:Linearizing, this is simply
306:altostratus undulatus clouds
221:Atmosphere dynamics on Earth
7:
3066:RayleighâTaylor instability
3051:Mesosphere#Dynamic features
3036:Horizontal convective rolls
3013:
1796:is the surface tension and
1370:The free-surface condition:
204:. Alternatively, so-called
110:between two media when the
10:
4859:
4045:Ocean dynamical thermostat
3893:
3363:10.1038/s42005-024-01616-7
2898:
323:
287:Quasi-Biennial Oscillation
230:
224:
26:
4790:
4629:
4603:
4580:Ocean acoustic tomography
4565:
4517:
4456:
4393:MohoroviÄiÄ discontinuity
4351:
4223:
4120:
3985:General circulation model
3915:
3621:BenjaminâFeir instability
3601:
3445:Nappo, Carmen J. (2012).
3324:10.1017/S0022112057000567
3279:10.1017/S0022112057000233
3243:10.5194/angeo-41-409-2023
102:are waves generated in a
68:
63:
4710:Ocean surface topography
4085:Thermohaline circulation
4075:Subsurface ocean current
4015:Hydrothermal circulation
3848:Waveâcurrent interaction
3626:Boussinesq approximation
3082:
2988:MilesâPhillips Mechanism
385:is given by the formula
320:Quantitative description
4747:Sea surface temperature
4730:Outline of oceanography
3925:Atmospheric circulation
3863:shallow water equations
3853:Waves and shallow water
3746:Significant wave height
3393:Glossary of Meteorology
3061:OrrâSommerfeld equation
2907:capillary-gravity waves
2633:{\displaystyle \omega }
2169:for the perturbations,
195:gravityâcapillary waves
4742:Sea surface microlayer
4107:Wind generated current
3350:Communications Physics
2957:
2885:
2808:
2733:
2672:
2634:
2614:
2574:
2514:
2474:
2402:
2367:
2298:
2250:
2156:
2081:
2022:
1928:
1857:
1783:
1721:
1683:
1651:
1622:
1580:
1511:
1414:
1352:
1305:
1261:
1197:
1175:
1144:
1116:
1079:
977:
866:
829:
779:
736:
591:
485:
419:
379:
356:
130:, which gives rise to
91:
58:
46:
4575:Deep scattering layer
4557:World Geodetic System
4065:Princeton Ocean Model
3945:CoriolisâStokes force
3595:Physical oceanography
3173:Reviews of Geophysics
2958:
2886:
2809:
2734:
2673:
2635:
2615:
2575:
2515:
2475:
2403:
2368:
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2157:
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2023:
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1722:
1684:
1652:
1623:
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1512:
1415:
1353:
1306:
1262:
1198:
1176:
1145:
1117:
1080:
978:
867:
830:
780:
737:
592:
486:
420:
380:
357:
324:Further information:
225:Further information:
149:surface gravity waves
85:
52:
40:
4595:Underwater acoustics
4155:Perigean spring tide
4020:Langmuir circulation
3731:Rossby-gravity waves
3203:10.1029/2001RG000106
3149:10.1029/2009GL041488
2929:
2839:
2747:
2690:
2646:
2624:
2588:
2526:
2486:
2412:
2380:
2313:
2263:
2176:
2096:
2043:
1944:
1873:
1811:
1738:
1703:
1695:: For the case with
1661:
1632:
1593:
1527:
1427:
1376:
1372:At the free surface
1315:
1274:
1210:
1185:
1154:
1126:
1092:
997:
886:
839:
797:
753:
608:
514:
437:
391:
369:
346:
181:of surface vessels.
167:Wind-generated waves
4757:Science On a Sphere
4363:Convergent boundary
4035:Modular Ocean Model
3995:Geostrophic current
3711:Mild-slope equation
3411:Free online version
3316:1957JFM.....3..185M
3271:1957JFM.....2..417P
3230:Annales Geophysicae
3185:2003RvGeo..41.1003F
3140:2010GeoRL..37.2502B
3056:Morning Glory cloud
2482:Using the solution
2037:hydrostatic balance
1589:where the velocity
1362:and the wave speed
747:partial derivatives
261:or by airflow over
210:, which are due to
4413:Seafloor spreading
4403:Outer trench swell
4368:Divergent boundary
4268:Continental margin
4253:Carbonate platform
4150:Lunitidal interval
3546:"Water Waves Wiki"
3046:Lunitidal interval
2953:
2952:
2881:
2804:
2729:
2668:
2630:
2610:
2609:
2570:
2510:
2509:
2470:
2469:
2398:
2397:
2363:
2294:
2293:
2246:
2152:
2077:
2076:
2018:
1924:
1853:
1779:
1717:
1716:
1679:
1678:
1647:
1646:
1618:
1617:
1576:
1507:
1410:
1409:
1348:
1347:
1301:
1300:
1257:
1193:
1192:
1171:
1170:
1140:
1139:
1112:
1111:
1075:
973:
862:
825:
775:
732:
587:
481:
415:
375:
352:
239:Earth's atmosphere
207:infragravity waves
92:
59:
55:Theresa, Wisconsin
47:
29:Gravitational wave
4830:
4829:
4822:Oceans portal
4782:World Ocean Atlas
4772:Underwater glider
4715:Ocean temperature
4378:Hydrothermal vent
4343:Submarine volcano
4278:Continental shelf
4258:Coastal geography
4248:Bathymetric chart
4130:Amphidromic point
3818:Wave nonlinearity
3676:Infragravity wave
3456:978-0-12-385223-6
3408:978-0-07-004860-7
3109:978-0-521-01045-0
2876:
2796:
2783:
2782:
2771:
2724:
2663:
2565:
2563:
2545:
2243:
2218:
2202:
2140:
2071:
1548:
1479:
1448:
1239:
1070:
1050:
811:
616:
476:
474:
456:
410:
409:
378:{\displaystyle k}
355:{\displaystyle c}
282:nonlinear effects
106:medium or at the
80:
79:
53:Wave clouds over
16:(Redirected from
4850:
4820:
4819:
4808:
4807:
4798:
4797:
4737:Pelagic sediment
4675:Marine pollution
4469:Deep ocean water
4338:Submarine canyon
4273:Continental rise
4165:Rule of twelfths
4080:Sverdrup balance
4010:Humboldt Current
3935:Boundary current
3910:
3899:
3716:Radiation stress
3686:Iribarren number
3661:Equatorial waves
3616:Ballantine scale
3611:Airy wave theory
3588:
3581:
3574:
3565:
3564:
3560:
3558:
3557:
3548:. Archived from
3541:
3539:
3538:
3511:
3509:
3508:
3499:. Archived from
3492:
3490:
3489:
3460:
3441:
3439:
3438:
3376:
3375:
3365:
3341:
3335:
3334:
3296:
3290:
3289:
3254:
3248:
3247:
3245:
3221:
3215:
3214:
3196:
3168:
3162:
3161:
3151:
3119:
3113:
3112:
3096:Lighthill, James
3092:
3026:Asteroseismology
2962:
2960:
2959:
2954:
2951:
2947:
2890:
2888:
2887:
2882:
2877:
2869:
2864:
2863:
2851:
2850:
2813:
2811:
2810:
2805:
2797:
2789:
2784:
2775:
2774:
2772:
2764:
2759:
2758:
2738:
2736:
2735:
2730:
2725:
2723:
2715:
2707:
2702:
2701:
2677:
2675:
2674:
2669:
2664:
2656:
2639:
2637:
2636:
2631:
2619:
2617:
2616:
2611:
2605:
2579:
2577:
2576:
2571:
2566:
2564:
2559:
2551:
2546:
2538:
2536:
2519:
2517:
2516:
2511:
2508:
2507:
2479:
2477:
2476:
2471:
2462:
2461:
2425:
2424:
2407:
2405:
2404:
2399:
2372:
2370:
2369:
2364:
2358:
2357:
2303:
2301:
2300:
2295:
2274:
2255:
2253:
2252:
2247:
2244:
2242:
2234:
2233:
2221:
2219:
2211:
2203:
2201:
2193:
2192:
2180:
2161:
2159:
2158:
2153:
2141:
2138:
2132:
2131:
2086:
2084:
2083:
2078:
2072:
2069:
2027:
2025:
2024:
2019:
2014:
2013:
1992:
1988:
1987:
1976:
1965:
1933:
1931:
1930:
1925:
1919:
1918:
1897:
1893:
1862:
1860:
1859:
1854:
1848:
1847:
1829:
1828:
1788:
1786:
1785:
1780:
1762:
1758:
1727:is given by the
1726:
1724:
1723:
1718:
1688:
1686:
1685:
1680:
1656:
1654:
1653:
1648:
1627:
1625:
1624:
1619:
1615:
1604:
1585:
1583:
1582:
1577:
1571:
1560:
1549:
1547:
1539:
1531:
1516:
1514:
1513:
1508:
1502:
1491:
1480:
1478:
1470:
1462:
1460:
1449:
1447:
1439:
1431:
1419:
1417:
1416:
1411:
1407:
1403:
1357:
1355:
1354:
1349:
1346:
1342:
1310:
1308:
1307:
1302:
1299:
1298:
1266:
1264:
1263:
1258:
1240:
1237:
1202:
1200:
1199:
1194:
1180:
1178:
1177:
1172:
1149:
1147:
1146:
1141:
1121:
1119:
1118:
1113:
1084:
1082:
1081:
1076:
1071:
1069:
1058:
1048:
1032:
1028:
1027:
1026:
1014:
1013:
982:
980:
979:
974:
968:
954:
953:
952:
948:
916:
912:
871:
869:
868:
863:
851:
850:
834:
832:
831:
826:
817:
813:
812:
784:
782:
781:
776:
774:
770:
741:
739:
738:
733:
724:
723:
708:
707:
668:
636:
622:
618:
617:
596:
594:
593:
588:
559:
527:
501:is the density.
490:
488:
487:
482:
477:
475:
470:
462:
457:
449:
447:
424:
422:
421:
416:
411:
402:
401:
384:
382:
381:
376:
361:
359:
358:
353:
326:Airy wave theory
227:Atmospheric wave
73:
72:
61:
60:
21:
4858:
4857:
4853:
4852:
4851:
4849:
4848:
4847:
4833:
4832:
4831:
4826:
4814:
4786:
4625:
4599:
4561:
4542:Sea-level curve
4513:
4452:
4438:Transform fault
4388:Mid-ocean ridge
4354:
4347:
4313:Oceanic plateau
4219:
4205:Tidal resonance
4175:Theory of tides
4116:
4025:Longshore drift
3975:Ekman transport
3911:
3905:
3904:
3903:
3902:
3901:
3900:
3891:
3843:Wave turbulence
3776:Trochoidal wave
3701:Longshore drift
3597:
3592:
3555:
3553:
3544:
3536:
3534:
3519:
3506:
3504:
3495:
3487:
3485:
3470:
3467:
3457:
3436:
3434:
3422:
3420:Further reading
3384:
3379:
3342:
3338:
3297:
3293:
3255:
3251:
3222:
3218:
3194:10.1.1.470.3839
3169:
3165:
3134:(L02502): n/a,
3120:
3116:
3110:
3100:Waves in fluids
3093:
3089:
3085:
3080:
3016:
3010:
3000:
2937:
2933:
2930:
2927:
2926:
2903:
2897:
2868:
2859:
2855:
2846:
2842:
2840:
2837:
2836:
2822:
2788:
2773:
2763:
2754:
2750:
2748:
2745:
2744:
2716:
2708:
2706:
2697:
2693:
2691:
2688:
2687:
2655:
2647:
2644:
2643:
2625:
2622:
2621:
2601:
2589:
2586:
2585:
2582:
2581:
2552:
2550:
2537:
2535:
2527:
2524:
2523:
2500:
2496:
2487:
2484:
2483:
2457:
2453:
2420:
2416:
2413:
2410:
2409:
2381:
2378:
2377:
2350:
2346:
2314:
2311:
2310:
2267:
2264:
2261:
2260:
2235:
2226:
2222:
2220:
2210:
2194:
2185:
2181:
2179:
2177:
2174:
2173:
2167:Euler equations
2137:
2124:
2120:
2097:
2094:
2093:
2068:
2044:
2041:
2040:
2006:
2002:
1977:
1969:
1955:
1951:
1947:
1945:
1942:
1941:
1911:
1907:
1883:
1879:
1874:
1871:
1870:
1840:
1836:
1824:
1820:
1812:
1809:
1808:
1748:
1744:
1739:
1736:
1735:
1704:
1701:
1700:
1697:surface tension
1662:
1659:
1658:
1633:
1630:
1629:
1605:
1597:
1594:
1591:
1590:
1561:
1553:
1540:
1532:
1530:
1528:
1525:
1524:
1492:
1484:
1471:
1463:
1461:
1453:
1440:
1432:
1430:
1428:
1425:
1424:
1393:
1389:
1377:
1374:
1373:
1329:
1325:
1316:
1313:
1312:
1291:
1287:
1275:
1272:
1271:
1236:
1211:
1208:
1207:
1186:
1183:
1182:
1155:
1152:
1151:
1127:
1124:
1123:
1093:
1090:
1089:
1062:
1057:
1022:
1018:
1009:
1005:
1004:
1000:
998:
995:
994:
958:
935:
931:
924:
920:
896:
892:
887:
884:
883:
846:
842:
840:
837:
836:
808:
807:
806:
798:
795:
794:
760:
756:
754:
751:
750:
719:
715:
703:
699:
661:
629:
613:
612:
611:
609:
606:
605:
601:representation
552:
520:
515:
512:
511:
506:
463:
461:
448:
446:
438:
435:
434:
400:
392:
389:
388:
370:
367:
366:
347:
344:
343:
337:
332:
322:
280:increases, and
259:frontal systems
235:
229:
223:
201:capillary waves
192:and are called
190:surface tension
70:
57:, United States
35:
32:
23:
22:
15:
12:
11:
5:
4856:
4846:
4845:
4828:
4827:
4825:
4824:
4812:
4802:
4791:
4788:
4787:
4785:
4784:
4779:
4774:
4769:
4764:
4762:Stratification
4759:
4754:
4749:
4744:
4739:
4734:
4733:
4732:
4722:
4717:
4712:
4707:
4702:
4697:
4692:
4687:
4682:
4677:
4672:
4667:
4662:
4654:
4652:Color of water
4649:
4647:Benthic lander
4644:
4639:
4633:
4631:
4627:
4626:
4624:
4623:
4618:
4613:
4607:
4605:
4601:
4600:
4598:
4597:
4592:
4587:
4582:
4577:
4571:
4569:
4563:
4562:
4560:
4559:
4554:
4552:Sea level rise
4549:
4547:Sea level drop
4544:
4539:
4534:
4529:
4523:
4521:
4515:
4514:
4512:
4511:
4506:
4501:
4496:
4491:
4486:
4481:
4476:
4471:
4466:
4460:
4458:
4454:
4453:
4451:
4450:
4445:
4440:
4435:
4430:
4425:
4420:
4415:
4410:
4405:
4400:
4395:
4390:
4385:
4383:Marine geology
4380:
4375:
4370:
4365:
4359:
4357:
4349:
4348:
4346:
4345:
4340:
4335:
4330:
4325:
4323:Passive margin
4320:
4318:Oceanic trench
4315:
4310:
4305:
4300:
4295:
4290:
4285:
4280:
4275:
4270:
4265:
4260:
4255:
4250:
4245:
4240:
4235:
4229:
4227:
4221:
4220:
4218:
4217:
4212:
4207:
4202:
4197:
4192:
4187:
4182:
4177:
4172:
4167:
4162:
4157:
4152:
4147:
4142:
4137:
4132:
4126:
4124:
4118:
4117:
4115:
4114:
4109:
4104:
4099:
4094:
4093:
4092:
4082:
4077:
4072:
4067:
4062:
4057:
4052:
4050:Ocean dynamics
4047:
4042:
4037:
4032:
4027:
4022:
4017:
4012:
4007:
4002:
3997:
3992:
3987:
3982:
3977:
3972:
3967:
3962:
3957:
3952:
3947:
3942:
3940:Coriolis force
3937:
3932:
3927:
3921:
3919:
3913:
3912:
3894:
3892:
3890:
3889:
3888:
3887:
3877:
3872:
3867:
3866:
3865:
3860:
3850:
3845:
3840:
3835:
3830:
3825:
3820:
3815:
3810:
3805:
3800:
3795:
3790:
3789:
3788:
3778:
3773:
3768:
3763:
3761:Stokes problem
3758:
3753:
3748:
3743:
3738:
3733:
3728:
3723:
3718:
3713:
3708:
3703:
3698:
3696:Kinematic wave
3693:
3688:
3683:
3678:
3673:
3668:
3663:
3658:
3653:
3648:
3643:
3638:
3633:
3628:
3623:
3618:
3613:
3607:
3605:
3599:
3598:
3591:
3590:
3583:
3576:
3568:
3562:
3561:
3542:
3517:
3512:
3493:
3466:
3465:External links
3463:
3462:
3461:
3455:
3442:
3421:
3418:
3417:
3416:
3413:
3396:
3387:Gill, A. E., "
3383:
3380:
3378:
3377:
3336:
3310:(2): 185â204,
3304:J. Fluid Mech.
3291:
3265:(5): 417â445,
3259:J. Fluid Mech.
3249:
3236:(2): 409â428.
3216:
3163:
3114:
3108:
3086:
3084:
3081:
3079:
3078:
3073:
3068:
3063:
3058:
3053:
3048:
3043:
3038:
3033:
3028:
3023:
3017:
3015:
3012:
2999:
2996:
2973:critical layer
2950:
2946:
2943:
2940:
2936:
2899:Main article:
2896:
2893:
2892:
2891:
2880:
2875:
2872:
2867:
2862:
2858:
2854:
2849:
2845:
2821:
2818:
2803:
2800:
2795:
2792:
2787:
2781:
2778:
2770:
2767:
2762:
2757:
2753:
2728:
2722:
2719:
2714:
2711:
2705:
2700:
2696:
2682:group velocity
2667:
2662:
2659:
2654:
2651:
2629:
2608:
2604:
2600:
2597:
2594:
2569:
2562:
2558:
2555:
2549:
2544:
2541:
2534:
2531:
2506:
2503:
2499:
2495:
2492:
2468:
2465:
2460:
2456:
2452:
2449:
2446:
2443:
2440:
2437:
2434:
2431:
2428:
2423:
2419:
2395:
2392:
2389:
2386:
2374:
2373:
2361:
2356:
2353:
2349:
2345:
2342:
2339:
2336:
2333:
2330:
2327:
2324:
2321:
2318:
2292:
2289:
2286:
2283:
2280:
2277:
2273:
2270:
2257:
2256:
2241:
2238:
2232:
2229:
2225:
2217:
2214:
2209:
2206:
2200:
2197:
2191:
2188:
2184:
2163:
2162:
2150:
2147:
2144:
2135:
2130:
2127:
2123:
2119:
2116:
2113:
2110:
2107:
2104:
2101:
2075:
2067:
2064:
2061:
2058:
2055:
2052:
2049:
2039:, in the form
2029:
2028:
2017:
2012:
2009:
2005:
2001:
1998:
1995:
1991:
1986:
1983:
1980:
1975:
1972:
1968:
1964:
1961:
1958:
1954:
1950:
1935:
1934:
1922:
1917:
1914:
1910:
1906:
1903:
1900:
1896:
1892:
1889:
1886:
1882:
1878:
1864:
1863:
1851:
1846:
1843:
1839:
1835:
1832:
1827:
1823:
1819:
1816:
1790:
1789:
1777:
1774:
1771:
1768:
1765:
1761:
1757:
1754:
1751:
1747:
1743:
1715:
1712:
1709:
1676:
1673:
1670:
1667:
1644:
1641:
1638:
1614:
1611:
1608:
1603:
1600:
1587:
1586:
1574:
1570:
1567:
1564:
1559:
1556:
1552:
1546:
1543:
1538:
1535:
1518:
1517:
1505:
1501:
1498:
1495:
1490:
1487:
1483:
1477:
1474:
1469:
1466:
1459:
1456:
1452:
1446:
1443:
1438:
1435:
1406:
1402:
1399:
1396:
1392:
1388:
1385:
1382:
1345:
1341:
1338:
1335:
1332:
1328:
1324:
1321:
1297:
1294:
1290:
1286:
1283:
1280:
1268:
1267:
1256:
1253:
1250:
1247:
1244:
1233:
1230:
1227:
1224:
1221:
1218:
1215:
1191:
1169:
1166:
1163:
1160:
1138:
1135:
1132:
1110:
1107:
1104:
1101:
1098:
1086:
1085:
1074:
1068:
1065:
1061:
1056:
1053:
1044:
1041:
1038:
1035:
1031:
1025:
1021:
1017:
1012:
1008:
1003:
984:
983:
971:
967:
964:
961:
957:
951:
947:
944:
941:
938:
934:
930:
927:
923:
919:
915:
911:
908:
905:
902:
899:
895:
891:
860:
857:
854:
849:
845:
823:
820:
816:
805:
802:
773:
769:
766:
763:
759:
743:
742:
730:
727:
722:
718:
714:
711:
706:
702:
698:
695:
692:
689:
686:
683:
680:
677:
674:
671:
667:
664:
660:
657:
654:
651:
648:
645:
642:
639:
635:
632:
628:
625:
621:
599:streamfunction
586:
583:
580:
577:
574:
571:
568:
565:
562:
558:
555:
551:
548:
545:
542:
539:
536:
533:
530:
526:
523:
519:
507:
504:
503:
480:
473:
469:
466:
460:
455:
452:
445:
442:
414:
408:
405:
399:
396:
374:
351:
341:phase velocity
336:
333:
321:
318:
297:of the middle
222:
219:
162:internal waves
158:
96:fluid dynamics
78:
77:
66:
65:
33:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
4855:
4844:
4843:Gravity waves
4841:
4840:
4838:
4823:
4818:
4813:
4811:
4803:
4801:
4793:
4792:
4789:
4783:
4780:
4778:
4775:
4773:
4770:
4768:
4765:
4763:
4760:
4758:
4755:
4753:
4750:
4748:
4745:
4743:
4740:
4738:
4735:
4731:
4728:
4727:
4726:
4723:
4721:
4718:
4716:
4713:
4711:
4708:
4706:
4703:
4701:
4698:
4696:
4693:
4691:
4688:
4686:
4683:
4681:
4678:
4676:
4673:
4671:
4670:Marine energy
4668:
4666:
4663:
4661:
4660:
4655:
4653:
4650:
4648:
4645:
4643:
4640:
4638:
4637:Acidification
4635:
4634:
4632:
4628:
4622:
4619:
4617:
4614:
4612:
4609:
4608:
4606:
4602:
4596:
4593:
4591:
4590:SOFAR channel
4588:
4586:
4583:
4581:
4578:
4576:
4573:
4572:
4570:
4568:
4564:
4558:
4555:
4553:
4550:
4548:
4545:
4543:
4540:
4538:
4535:
4533:
4530:
4528:
4525:
4524:
4522:
4520:
4516:
4510:
4507:
4505:
4502:
4500:
4497:
4495:
4492:
4490:
4487:
4485:
4482:
4480:
4477:
4475:
4472:
4470:
4467:
4465:
4462:
4461:
4459:
4455:
4449:
4446:
4444:
4441:
4439:
4436:
4434:
4431:
4429:
4426:
4424:
4421:
4419:
4416:
4414:
4411:
4409:
4406:
4404:
4401:
4399:
4398:Oceanic crust
4396:
4394:
4391:
4389:
4386:
4384:
4381:
4379:
4376:
4374:
4373:Fracture zone
4371:
4369:
4366:
4364:
4361:
4360:
4358:
4356:
4350:
4344:
4341:
4339:
4336:
4334:
4331:
4329:
4326:
4324:
4321:
4319:
4316:
4314:
4311:
4309:
4308:Oceanic basin
4306:
4304:
4301:
4299:
4296:
4294:
4291:
4289:
4286:
4284:
4281:
4279:
4276:
4274:
4271:
4269:
4266:
4264:
4261:
4259:
4256:
4254:
4251:
4249:
4246:
4244:
4241:
4239:
4238:Abyssal plain
4236:
4234:
4231:
4230:
4228:
4226:
4222:
4216:
4213:
4211:
4208:
4206:
4203:
4201:
4198:
4196:
4193:
4191:
4188:
4186:
4183:
4181:
4178:
4176:
4173:
4171:
4168:
4166:
4163:
4161:
4158:
4156:
4153:
4151:
4148:
4146:
4145:Internal tide
4143:
4141:
4138:
4136:
4133:
4131:
4128:
4127:
4125:
4123:
4119:
4113:
4110:
4108:
4105:
4103:
4100:
4098:
4095:
4091:
4088:
4087:
4086:
4083:
4081:
4078:
4076:
4073:
4071:
4068:
4066:
4063:
4061:
4058:
4056:
4053:
4051:
4048:
4046:
4043:
4041:
4040:Ocean current
4038:
4036:
4033:
4031:
4028:
4026:
4023:
4021:
4018:
4016:
4013:
4011:
4008:
4006:
4003:
4001:
3998:
3996:
3993:
3991:
3988:
3986:
3983:
3981:
3978:
3976:
3973:
3971:
3968:
3966:
3963:
3961:
3958:
3956:
3953:
3951:
3948:
3946:
3943:
3941:
3938:
3936:
3933:
3931:
3928:
3926:
3923:
3922:
3920:
3918:
3914:
3909:
3898:
3886:
3883:
3882:
3881:
3878:
3876:
3873:
3871:
3868:
3864:
3861:
3859:
3856:
3855:
3854:
3851:
3849:
3846:
3844:
3841:
3839:
3838:Wave shoaling
3836:
3834:
3831:
3829:
3826:
3824:
3821:
3819:
3816:
3814:
3811:
3809:
3806:
3804:
3801:
3799:
3798:Ursell number
3796:
3794:
3791:
3787:
3784:
3783:
3782:
3779:
3777:
3774:
3772:
3769:
3767:
3764:
3762:
3759:
3757:
3754:
3752:
3749:
3747:
3744:
3742:
3739:
3737:
3734:
3732:
3729:
3727:
3724:
3722:
3719:
3717:
3714:
3712:
3709:
3707:
3704:
3702:
3699:
3697:
3694:
3692:
3689:
3687:
3684:
3682:
3681:Internal wave
3679:
3677:
3674:
3672:
3669:
3667:
3664:
3662:
3659:
3657:
3654:
3652:
3649:
3647:
3644:
3642:
3639:
3637:
3634:
3632:
3631:Breaking wave
3629:
3627:
3624:
3622:
3619:
3617:
3614:
3612:
3609:
3608:
3606:
3604:
3600:
3596:
3589:
3584:
3582:
3577:
3575:
3570:
3569:
3566:
3552:on 2010-11-13
3551:
3547:
3543:
3532:
3528:
3527:
3522:
3518:
3516:
3513:
3503:on 2011-05-24
3502:
3498:
3494:
3483:
3479:
3478:
3473:
3469:
3468:
3458:
3452:
3448:
3443:
3433:
3429:
3424:
3423:
3414:
3412:
3409:
3405:
3401:
3397:
3394:
3390:
3386:
3385:
3373:
3369:
3364:
3359:
3355:
3351:
3347:
3340:
3333:
3329:
3325:
3321:
3317:
3313:
3309:
3305:
3301:
3295:
3288:
3284:
3280:
3276:
3272:
3268:
3264:
3260:
3253:
3244:
3239:
3235:
3231:
3227:
3220:
3212:
3208:
3204:
3200:
3195:
3190:
3186:
3182:
3178:
3174:
3167:
3159:
3155:
3150:
3145:
3141:
3137:
3133:
3129:
3125:
3118:
3111:
3105:
3101:
3097:
3091:
3087:
3077:
3074:
3072:
3069:
3067:
3064:
3062:
3059:
3057:
3054:
3052:
3049:
3047:
3044:
3042:
3039:
3037:
3034:
3032:
3029:
3027:
3024:
3022:
3021:Acoustic wave
3019:
3018:
3011:
3008:
3004:
2995:
2993:
2989:
2984:
2982:
2978:
2974:
2968:
2966:
2948:
2944:
2941:
2938:
2934:
2924:
2919:
2915:
2910:
2908:
2902:
2878:
2873:
2870:
2865:
2860:
2856:
2852:
2847:
2843:
2835:
2834:
2833:
2831:
2827:
2826:nondispersive
2820:Shallow water
2817:
2814:
2801:
2798:
2793:
2790:
2785:
2779:
2776:
2768:
2765:
2760:
2755:
2751:
2742:
2739:
2726:
2720:
2717:
2712:
2709:
2703:
2698:
2694:
2685:
2683:
2678:
2665:
2660:
2657:
2652:
2649:
2641:
2627:
2606:
2602:
2598:
2595:
2592:
2580:
2567:
2560:
2556:
2553:
2547:
2542:
2539:
2532:
2529:
2521:
2520:, this gives
2504:
2501:
2497:
2493:
2480:
2466:
2458:
2454:
2450:
2447:
2444:
2438:
2435:
2429:
2426:
2421:
2417:
2390:
2387:
2384:
2359:
2354:
2351:
2347:
2343:
2340:
2337:
2334:
2331:
2328:
2322:
2319:
2316:
2309:
2308:
2307:
2304:
2290:
2284:
2281:
2278:
2275:
2271:
2268:
2239:
2230:
2227:
2215:
2212:
2207:
2204:
2198:
2189:
2186:
2172:
2171:
2170:
2168:
2148:
2145:
2142:
2133:
2128:
2125:
2121:
2117:
2114:
2111:
2108:
2105:
2102:
2099:
2092:
2091:
2090:
2089:this becomes
2087:
2073:
2065:
2062:
2059:
2056:
2053:
2050:
2047:
2038:
2034:
2015:
2010:
2007:
2003:
1999:
1996:
1993:
1989:
1984:
1981:
1978:
1973:
1970:
1966:
1962:
1959:
1956:
1952:
1948:
1940:
1939:
1938:
1920:
1915:
1912:
1908:
1904:
1901:
1898:
1894:
1890:
1887:
1884:
1880:
1876:
1869:
1868:
1867:
1849:
1844:
1841:
1837:
1833:
1830:
1825:
1817:
1814:
1807:
1806:
1805:
1803:
1799:
1795:
1775:
1772:
1769:
1766:
1763:
1759:
1755:
1752:
1749:
1745:
1741:
1734:
1733:
1732:
1730:
1729:YoungâLaplace
1713:
1710:
1707:
1698:
1694:
1690:
1671:
1668:
1665:
1642:
1639:
1636:
1612:
1609:
1606:
1601:
1598:
1572:
1568:
1565:
1562:
1557:
1554:
1550:
1544:
1536:
1523:
1522:
1521:
1503:
1499:
1496:
1493:
1488:
1485:
1481:
1475:
1467:
1457:
1454:
1450:
1444:
1436:
1423:
1422:
1421:
1404:
1400:
1397:
1394:
1390:
1386:
1383:
1380:
1371:
1367:
1365:
1361:
1343:
1339:
1336:
1330:
1326:
1322:
1319:
1295:
1292:
1288:
1284:
1281:
1254:
1248:
1245:
1242:
1231:
1228:
1225:
1219:
1216:
1213:
1206:
1205:
1204:
1189:
1167:
1164:
1161:
1158:
1136:
1133:
1130:
1108:
1102:
1099:
1096:
1072:
1066:
1063:
1059:
1054:
1051:
1042:
1039:
1036:
1029:
1023:
1019:
1015:
1010:
1006:
1001:
993:
992:
991:
989:
969:
965:
962:
959:
949:
945:
942:
939:
936:
932:
928:
925:
921:
917:
913:
909:
906:
903:
900:
897:
893:
889:
882:
881:
880:
879:
875:
858:
855:
852:
847:
821:
818:
814:
803:
792:
788:
771:
767:
764:
761:
757:
748:
728:
720:
716:
712:
709:
704:
700:
693:
684:
681:
678:
675:
672:
665:
662:
658:
652:
649:
646:
643:
640:
633:
630:
623:
619:
604:
603:
602:
600:
584:
575:
572:
569:
566:
563:
556:
553:
549:
543:
540:
537:
534:
531:
524:
521:
502:
500:
496:
491:
478:
471:
467:
464:
458:
453:
450:
443:
440:
432:
430:
425:
412:
406:
403:
397:
394:
386:
372:
365:
349:
342:
331:
327:
317:
315:
311:
307:
302:
300:
296:
292:
289:, and in the
288:
283:
279:
275:
271:
268:
264:
260:
256:
252:
248:
244:
240:
234:
228:
218:
216:
213:
209:
208:
203:
202:
197:
196:
191:
187:
182:
180:
176:
172:
168:
164:
163:
156:
154:
150:
146:
145:
140:
135:
133:
129:
125:
121:
117:
113:
109:
105:
101:
100:gravity waves
97:
89:
84:
76:
67:
62:
56:
51:
44:
39:
30:
19:
18:Gravity waves
4777:Water column
4725:Oceanography
4700:Observations
4695:Explorations
4665:Marginal sea
4658:
4616:OSTM/Jason-2
4448:Volcanic arc
4423:Slab suction
4140:Head of tide
4030:Loop Current
3970:Ekman spiral
3756:Stokes drift
3666:Gravity wave
3665:
3641:Cnoidal wave
3554:. Retrieved
3550:the original
3535:. Retrieved
3524:
3505:. Retrieved
3501:the original
3486:. Retrieved
3475:
3446:
3435:. Retrieved
3399:
3392:
3389:Gravity wave
3353:
3349:
3339:
3307:
3303:
3300:Miles, J. W.
3294:
3262:
3258:
3252:
3233:
3229:
3219:
3176:
3172:
3166:
3131:
3127:
3117:
3099:
3090:
3009:
3005:
3001:
2985:
2980:
2976:
2969:
2913:
2911:
2904:
2829:
2823:
2815:
2743:
2740:
2686:
2679:
2642:
2583:
2522:
2481:
2375:
2305:
2258:
2164:
2088:
2032:
2030:
1936:
1865:
1797:
1793:
1791:
1692:
1691:
1588:
1519:
1369:
1368:
1363:
1359:
1269:
1087:
987:
985:
873:
791:irrotational
786:
744:
508:
498:
494:
492:
433:
428:
426:
387:
338:
303:
251:stratosphere
236:
233:Undular bore
205:
199:
193:
186:free surface
183:
160:
153:surface wave
148:
143:
142:
136:
99:
93:
4767:Thermocline
4484:Mesopelagic
4457:Ocean zones
4428:Slab window
4293:Hydrography
4233:Abyssal fan
4200:Tidal range
4190:Tidal power
4185:Tidal force
4070:Rip current
4005:Gulf Stream
3965:Ekman layer
3955:Downwelling
3930:Baroclinity
3917:Circulation
3813:Wave height
3803:Wave action
3786:megatsunami
3766:Stokes wave
3726:Rossby wave
3691:Kelvin wave
3671:Green's law
3179:(1): 1003,
3031:Green's law
330:Stokes wave
247:troposphere
212:subharmonic
151:(a type of
139:equilibrium
4705:Reanalysis
4604:Satellites
4585:Sofar bomb
4433:Subduction
4408:Ridge push
4303:Ocean bank
4283:Contourite
4210:Tide gauge
4195:Tidal race
4180:Tidal bore
4170:Slack tide
4135:Earth tide
4055:Ocean gyre
3875:Wind setup
3870:Wind fetch
3833:Wave setup
3828:Wave radar
3823:Wave power
3721:Rogue wave
3651:Dispersion
3556:2010-11-11
3537:2010-11-11
3507:2010-11-11
3488:2018-12-13
3437:2010-11-11
3382:References
3356:(1): 165.
3071:Rogue wave
1731:equation:
364:wavenumber
335:Deep water
310:ionosphere
299:atmosphere
291:mesosphere
255:mesosphere
231:See also:
177:, and the
144:wave orbit
132:wind waves
124:atmosphere
4567:Acoustics
4519:Sea level
4418:Slab pull
4355:tectonics
4263:Cold seep
4225:Landforms
4102:Whirlpool
4097:Upwelling
3880:Wind wave
3808:Wave base
3736:Sea state
3656:Edge wave
3646:Cross sea
3372:2399-3650
3332:119795395
3287:116675962
3211:122701606
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88:Timor Sea
45:, Croatia
4837:Category
4800:Category
4752:Seawater
4479:Littoral
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4215:Tideline
4160:Rip tide
4090:shutdown
4060:Overflow
3793:Undertow
3636:Clapotis
3531:Archived
3482:Archived
3158:38071443
3098:(2001),
3076:Skyquake
3041:Lee wave
3014:See also
2994:length.
2923:stresses
2272:′
2231:′
2190:′
2139:on
1974:′
1602:′
1558:′
1489:′
1458:′
1358:, where
815:′
793:, hence
666:′
634:′
620:′
557:′
525:′
295:dynamics
276:, their
270:velocity
243:momentum
173:, ocean
171:tsunamis
126:and the
120:buoyancy
4810:Commons
4680:Mooring
4630:Related
4621:Jason-3
4611:Jason-1
4494:Pelagic
4489:Oceanic
4464:Benthic
3781:Tsunami
3751:Soliton
3526:YouTube
3477:YouTube
3312:Bibcode
3267:Bibcode
3181:Bibcode
3136:Bibcode
1800:is the
1270:Hence,
249:to the
237:In the
116:gravity
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1181:where
1049:
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878:ansatz
493:where
427:where
314:radars
157:within
43:TuÄepi
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4509:Swash
4353:Plate
4298:Knoll
4288:Guyot
4243:Atoll
4122:Tides
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3771:Swell
3603:Waves
3400:Waves
3328:S2CID
3283:S2CID
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2992:fetch
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175:tides
128:ocean
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104:fluid
4657:DSV
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4504:Surf
3960:Eddy
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