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415:. The lecturer that night was Willem de Wendt, a man of various aliases who was also known as Willie Wendt and Wilhem de Kerlor. He was reported to have legally changed his name in England to Wilhelm Frederick Wendt de Kerlor, a combination of his father's last name and mother's maiden name. de Wendt's profession was that of a tireless, inventive self-promoter, in reality a con man who claimed to have psychic powers, and numerous academic credentials. He alternatively and simultaneously passed himself off as detective and criminal psychologist, doctor, and lecturer. In a stint on the
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504:, whom she had first met on board ship during the transatlantic crossing to America in 1916. Following de Kerlor's desertion, Schiaparelli returned to New York, attracted to its spirit of fresh beginnings and cultural vibrancy. Her interest in spiritualism translated into a natural affinity for the art of the Dada and Surrealist movements, and her friendship with Gaby Picabia facilitated entry into this creative circle which comprised noteworthy members such as
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husband, thirty. De Kerlor attempted to earn a living aggrandizing his reputation as a psychic practitioner as the couple subsisted primarily on the wedding dowry and an allowance provided by
Schiaparelli's wealthy parents. Schiaparelli played the role of her husband's helpmate and helped facilitate the promotion of his fraudulent schemes. In 1915, the couple were forced to leave England after de Kerlor was deported following his conviction for practicing
481:, whilst his wife incriminated herself by revealing that she was tutoring Italians in Boston's North End on the tenets of Bolshevism, and that she herself had the knowledge to assemble explosive devices. Both were ultimately spared prosecution or deportation, the authorities concluding that such admissions so freely given were more indicative of foolish grandstanding than evidence of individuals who were a threat to society.
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crawling directly on the wearer's skin. During the 1930s her jewellery designs were produced by
Schlumberger, Clemént and Jean-Pierre, who also made up designs for buttons and fasteners. Schlumberger's jewellery with its inventive combinations of precious and semi-precious stones proved successful, and at the end of the 1930s, he left to launch his jewellery business in New York. Schiaparelli also offered brooches by
753:, taking inspiration from aprons to produce a design that would accommodate and flatter all female body types. Her design, which first appeared in 1930, offered a two-sided model with armholes on each side, brought together in the front of the garment and wrapped and tied at the waistline. Buttons may also have been incorporated into this early version. Initially conceived as beachwear and produced in four colours of
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489:, which proved a stressful and protracted challenge for both mother and child. Years later, Gogo recalled spending her early years in plaster casts and on crutches, with a largely absent mother whom she barely saw. Fearing that de Kerlor would attempt to gain legal custody of Gogo, Schiaparelli had the child's surname legally changed to Schiaparelli prior to their return to France in 1922.
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rayon with metal threads called "Fildifer"âthe first time synthetic materials had been used in couture. Some of these innovations were not pursued further, like her 1934 "glass" cape made from
Rhodophane, a transparent plastic related to cellophane. Making clothes from these new and untested fabrics posed unexpected hazardsâ
626:, the business really took off with a pattern that gave the impression of a scarf wrapped around the wearer's neck. The "pour le Sport" collection expanded the following year to include bathing suits, ski-wear, and linen dresses. Schiaparelli added evening wear to her collections in 1931, using the luxury silks of
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placed Chanel in the second division of fashion, whereas
Schiaparelli was one of "a handful of houses now at or near the peak of their power as arbiters of the ultra-modern haute couture....Madder and more original than most of her contemporaries, Mme Schiaparelli is the one to whom the word 'genius'
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to produce two of her most notable art-themed designs for that year's Autumn collection. An evening jacket was embroidered with a female figure with one hand caressing the waist of the wearer, and long blonde hair cascading down one sleeve. A long evening coat featured two profiles facing each other,
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Following the lead of
Gabrielle Picabia and others, and after the death of her lover Laurenti, Schiaparelli left New York for France in 1922. Upon her arrival in Paris, she took an expensive apartment in a fashionable quarter of the city taking on the requisite servants, cook and maid. The self-made
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myth of the hunt. The content of her writing so alarmed the conservative sensibilities of her parents that they sought to tame her fantasy life by sending her to a convent boarding school in
Switzerland. Once within the school's confines, Schiaparelli rebelled against its strict authority by going on
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with one of her slippers balanced on his head. In 1937 he sketched designs for a shoe hat for
Schiaparelli, which she featured in her Fall-Winter 1937â38 collection. The hat, shaped like a woman's high-heeled shoe, had the heel standing straight up and the toe tilted over the wearer's forehead. This
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The designs
Schiaparelli produced in collaboration with DalĂ are among her best known. In addition to well-documented collaborations such as the shoe hat and the Lobster, Tears, and Skeleton dresses, DalĂ's influence has been identified in designs such as the lamb-cutlet hat and a 1936-day suit with
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with an alluring low-cut back by using hidden straps that crossed in the back and closed around the waist. This design was patented in 1930 and retailed by Best & Company. Other designs were made with detachable elements and reversible sections. Also in 1930, she is credited with having produced
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Whilst in Paris, Schiaparelliâ"Schiap" to her friendsâbegan making her own clothes. With encouragement from Poiret, she started her own business, but it closed in 1926 despite favourable reviews. She launched a new collection of knitwear in early 1927 using a special double layered stitch created by
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recognised that Chanel had assembled a fortune of some US$ 15m despite being "not at present the most dominant influence in fashion", whereas
Schiaparelli relied on inspiration rather than craftsmanship and "it was not long before every little dress factory in Manhattan had copied them and from New
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Schiaparelli had no training in the technical skills of pattern making and clothing construction. Her method of approach relied on both impulse of the moment and the serendipitous inspiration as the work progressed. She draped fabric directly on the body, sometimes using herself as the model. This
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stage, de Kerlor billed himself as "The World Famous Dr. W. de Kerlor." Schiaparelli was immediately attracted to this charismatic charlatan and they became engaged the day after their first meeting. They married shortly thereafter in London on 21 July 1914; Schiaparelli was twenty-three, her new
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Schiaparelli was dissatisfied by a lifestyle that, whilst refined and comfortable, she considered cloistered and unfulfilling. Her craving for adventure and exploration of the wider world led to her taking measures to remedy this, and when a friend offered her a post (find/offer someone to fill a
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produced similarly pleated and crinkled pieces. Schiaparelli enjoyed playing with juxtapositions of colours, shapes, and textures, and embraced the new technologies and materials of the time. With
Charles Colcombet she experimented with acrylic, cellophane, a rayon jersey called "Jersela,â and a
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Schiaparelli's output also included distinctive costume jewellery in a wide range of novelty designs. One of her most directly Surrealist designs was a 1938 Rhodoid (a newly developed clear plastic) necklace studded with coloured metallic insects by Clément giving the illusion that the bugs were
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near Central Park West. De Kerlor rented offices to house his newly inaugurated "Bureau of Psychology" where he hoped to achieve fame and fortune through his paranormal and consulting work. His wife acted as his assistant, providing clerical support for self-promotions crafted to provide the
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Almost immediately after their child, Maria Luisa Yvonne Radha (nicknamed 'Gogo'), was born on 15 June 1920, de Kerlor moved out, leaving Schiaparelli alone with their newborn daughter. In later years, whenever Gogo asked her mother about her absent father, she was told that he was dead.
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revolutionary. Attempting to avoid this unremitting scrutiny, the de Kerlors decamped to Boston in 1918, where they continued their activities as they had done in New York. De Kerlor, an incurable publicity hound, made imprudent admissions to a BOI investigator in prideful support of the
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The cultural background and erudition of her family members served to ignite the imaginative faculties of Schiaparelli's impressionable childhood years. She became enraptured with the lore of ancient cultures and religious rites. These sources inspired her to pen a volume of poems titled
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Schiaparelli fled to London to avoid the certainty of marriage to a persistent suitor, a wealthy Russian whom her parents favored and for whom she herself felt no attraction. In London, Schiaparelli âwho had held a fascination for psychic phenomena since childhoodâ attended a lecture on
725:" marking a rejection of pre-war fashion. The house of Schiaparelli struggled in the austerity of the post-war period. Schiaparelli discontinued her couture business in 1951, and finally closed down the heavily indebted design house in December 1954, the same year that her great rival
520:. Although technically still married, Schiaparelli took a lover, the opera singer Mario Laurenti, but this relationship was cut short by Laurenti's death in 1922 after a sudden illness. Whilst they were together, de Kerlor had purportedly conducted affairs with the dancer
1024:. The print was intended to give the illusion of torn animal flesh, the tears printed to represent fur on the reverse of the fabric and suggest that the dress was made of animal pelts turned inside out. Figures in ripped, skin-tight clothing suggesting
588:, who was renowned for jettisoning corseted, over-long dresses and promoting styles that enabled freedom of movement for the modern, elegant and sophisticated woman. In later life, Schiaparelli referred to Poiret as "a generous mentor, dear friend."
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list of members, and presented its first show since nomination in January 2014. Schiaparelli, using a hyper-exclusive business strategy, is to sell its first collection exclusively at a by-appointment boutique in Paris. Following the appointment of
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and silk-covered carrots and cauliflowers. Many of these fastenings were designed by Jean Clemént and Roger Jean-Pierre who also created jewellery for her. In 1936, Schiaparelli was one of the first people to recognise the potential of
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757:, the dress was popular with buyers and copied by garment manufacturers as a design for everyday street wear. Some forty years afterwards, this uncomplicated and easy-to-wear design was revisited in the 1970s by the American designer
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on 14 June 1940, Schiaparelli sailed to New York for a lecture tour; apart from a few months in Paris in early 1941, she remained in New York City until the end of the war. On her return she found that fashions had changed, with
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Although never threatened with destitution as she continued to receive financial support from her mother, Schiaparelli nevertheless felt the need to earn an independent income. She assisted Man Ray with his Dada magazine
402:, she saw an opportunity to leave. The placement, however, proved unsuitable to Schiaparelli, who subsequently planned a return to the stop-over city of Paris rather than admit defeat by returning to Rome and her family.
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associations she formed over the years along with the eminent social position held by her Italian family combined to ensure that she would be embraced by desirable social circles on her return to France.
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was a simple white silk evening dress with a crimson waistband featuring a large lobster painted (by DalĂ) onto the skirt. From 1934, DalĂ had started incorporating lobsters into his work, including
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through her association with his sister Nicole Groult, Picabia proposed that they sell French couture in America. This proposed project, however, never became a viable enterprise and was abandoned.
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pockets simulating a chest of drawers. While Schiaparelli did not formally name her designs, the four main garments from her partnership with DalĂ are popularly known as follows:
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as Creative Director, the brand has experienced greater notoriety and success especially through dressing celebrities for the red carpet. The company is now moving towards luxury
341:, was an accomplished scholar with multiple areas of interest. His studies focused on the Islamic world and the era of the Middle Ages and he was, in addition, an authority on
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A darker tone was set when France declared war on Germany in 1939. Schiaparelli's Spring 1940 collection featured "trench" brown and camouflage print taffetas. Soon after the
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Schiaparelli apparently made no efforts to bring her husband back or to seek support payments for herself and Gogo. In 1921, the 18-month-old Gogo was diagnosed with
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Recent edition of Elsa's autobiography, originally published by JM Dent & Sons, At the Aldine Press, London, 1954, with a frontispiece by Picasso, x+p. 230.
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became a key element of Schiaparelli's designs, visibly fastening necklines and running down sleeves and skirts. She used chunky plastic zippers made from
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newspapers with sensational copy, win celebrity, and garner acclaim. During this period de Kerlor came under the surveillance of the Federal government's
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Schiaparelli and de Kerlor were eventually divorced in March 1924. In 1928, de Kerlor was murdered in Mexico under circumstances never fully revealed.
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made to mimic ermine; and novelty prints including a fabric patterned with newspaper clippings. She made garments from crumpled rayon 50 years before
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art movements directed her into new creative territory. Her instinctive sensibilities soon came to distinguish her creations from her chief rival
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and then lived out a comfortable retirement between her Paris apartment and her house in Tunisia. She died on 13 November 1973, at the age of 83.
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had a Schiaparelli dress melt at the dry cleaners' after its synthetic fabric reverted to chemical sludge upon contact with the cleaning fluids.
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York's 3rd Avenue to San Francisco's Howard Street millions of shop girls who had never heard of Schiaparelli were proudly wearing her models".
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rips and tears, worn with a thigh-length veil with "real" tears carefully cut out and lined in pink and magenta, was part of the February 1938
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technique followed the lead of Poiret who too had created garments by manipulating and draping. The results appeared uncontrived and wearable.
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Schiaparelli was also renowned for her unusual buttons, which could resemble candlesticks, playing card emblems, ships, crowns, mirrors, and
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noted that by 1939 Schiaparelli was well known enough in intellectual circles to be mentioned as the epitome of modernity by the Irish poet
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Bow-knot sweater designed by Elsa Schiaparelli (1927). Anonymous drawing published on Vogue (Paris), vol. 8, no. 12, 1st December 1927, p. 9
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The failure of her business meant that Schiaparelli's name is not as well remembered as that of her great rival Chanel. But in 1934,
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was appointed in September 2013 that details of the brand's revival became public. The house has been nominated for a return to the
990:(1936). His design for Schiaparelli was interpreted into a fabric print by the leading silk designer Sache. It was famously worn by
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Schiaparelli was noted for her use of innovative textiles which were woven to resemble textures such as tree bark or crepe paper; a
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Schiaparelli relied greatly on the emotional support offered her by her close friend Gabrielle 'Gaby' Buffet-Picabia, the wife of
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and eccentric fashions. Her collections were famous for unconventional and artistic themes like the human body, insects, or
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in Paris in 1927, which she managed from the 1930s to the 1950s. Starting with knitwear, Schiaparelli's designs celebrated
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Schiaparelli's two granddaughters, from her daughter's marriage to shipping executive Robert L. Berenson, were model
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Maison Robert Perrier (Fédération Nationale du Tissu). 2000. Exhibit. Mairie du 4e arrondissement de Paris, Paris.
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which reproduced photographs from her grandmother's personal archives. Elsa is the niece of astronomer
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Schiaparelli's perfumes were noted for their unusual packaging and bottles. Her best-known perfume was "
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1290:'s tailor's dummy and DalĂ paintings of flower-sellers. The packaging, also designed by Fini, was in
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In 2022, Schiaparelli was included in Ferren Gipson's book exploring feminine arts and feminist art.
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In 1931, Schiaparelli's divided skirtâa forerunner of shortsâshocked the tennis world when worn by
2854:"ELSA SCHIAPARELLI SAS (PARIS 1) Chiffre d'affaires, rĂ©sultat, bilans sur SOCIETE.COM â 572161123"
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Schiaparelli designed the wardrobes for several films, starting with the French version of 1933's
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hat was worn by Gala DalĂ, Schiaparelli herself, and by the Franco-American editor of the French
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The de Kerlors disembarked in New York, initially staying at the Brevoort, a prominent hotel in
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of a vase of roses. The embroidering of both garments was executed by the couture embroiderers
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Schiaparelli is one of the designers credited with offering the first clothes with visible
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3438:""Shocking!" The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli 28 September 2003 â 4 January 2004"
3032:"Perfume Intelligence â The Encyclopaedia of Perfume: Volume S : Schiaparelli, Elsa"
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a hunger strike, leaving her parents with no alternative but to bring her home again.
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2955:"Schiaparelli dĂ©voile le deuxiĂšme volet de son prĂȘt-Ă -porter chez Bergdorf Goodman"
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The Tears Dress, a slender pale-blue evening gown printed with a DalĂ design of
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282:; 10 September 1890 â 13 November 1973) was an Italian fashion designer from an
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Three Young Surrealist Women Holding in Their Arms the Skins of an Orchestra
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Other innovations included a swimsuit design which incorporated an interior
3191:. Johns Hopkins University Press (published 19 January 2000). p. 192.
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Schiaparelli's fanciful imaginative powers coupled with involvement in the
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Major exhibition of Schiaparelli's work at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
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2446:(1992). "Chanel in Context". In Ash, Juliet; Wilson, Elizabeth (eds.).
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1662:"Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli - teacher's pack"
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and a curator of medieval manuscripts. He also served as Dean of the
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dress" provided a hidden pocket for a flask for alcoholic beverage.
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3480:"Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies"
3006:""Sleeping" perfume bottle by Marcel VertĂšs for Elsa Schiaparelli"
2265:"Buttons. Jean Clément or Roger Jean-Pierre for Elsa Schiaparelli"
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Schiaparelli's design career was early on influenced by couturier
2749:. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art (2000â.). April 2011.
2135:"Elsa Schiaparelli: Declaring Feminine Willpower through Fashion"
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DalĂ also helped Schiaparelli design the Skeleton Dress for the
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flesh appeared in three of DalĂ's 1936 paintings, one of which,
1595:"Elsa Schiaparelli, créatrice excentrique | Le blog de Gallica"
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and went so far as to admit to an association with a notorious
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2537:"Dinner jacket designed by Elsa Schiaparelli and Jean Cocteau"
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presented a tribute fashion collection to Schiaparelli at the
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3234:(1st ed.). Tokyo: Kodansha International. p. 211.
3139:"Dream Fashion Mash-Up: Christian Lacroix Does Schiaparelli"
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Schiaparelli was one of the first designers to develop the
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Historic rings : four thousand years of craftsmanship
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Division of Education at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
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1938â39 Schiaparelli suit with large buttons sculpted by
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had positioned him on the government radar as a possible
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3213:(Reprint ed.). Rizzoli International Publications.
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The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language
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Published to coincide with the Philadelphia exhibition.
2450:. London: Pandora Press (Harper Collins). p. 124.
1837:"Stilisti che hanno fatto la storia: Elsa Schiaparelli"
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the first evening dress with a matching jacket. During
699:. Although McDowell cites MacNeice's reference as from
443:, after which they relocated to an apartment above the
3353:. Yale University Press (published 3 September 2003).
3306:(Updated ed.). Aurum Press (published May 1996).
3098:""Shocking!" The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli"
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European Fashion Heritage Association (4 March 2019).
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perfume bottle shaped like a candlestick. Designed by
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who she originally employed as a designer of buttons.
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People associated with the Philadelphia Museum of Art
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2196:. London (published 24 October 2003). Archived from
1742:"SCHIAPARELLI, Celestino in "Enciclopedia Italiana""
1620:"Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli"
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Shocking!: The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli
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1371:in the early 1970s. Berry was married to the actor
672:And dressed by Schiaparelli, with a pill-box hat.'
178:
3475:exhibition held in Paris by the Fondation Tanagra.
3392:
3272:
3120:"Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations"
2295:"Necklace. Elsa Schiaparelli (Italian, 1890â1973)"
1660:Philadelphia Museum of Art Division of Education.
976:New York Dream-Man Finds Lobster in Place of Phone
940:In 1937 Schiaparelli collaborated with the artist
737:In 1954, Schiaparelli published her autobiography
16:Italian fashion designer and couturier (1890â1973)
2084:McDowell's directory of twentieth century fashion
3501:
3071:
2982:Women's work: from feminine arts to feminist art
2323:Costume jewelers : the golden age of design
2086:(Rev. ed.). New York: Prentice Hall Press.
1986:
667:With false eyelashes and finger-nails of carmine
2346:Evans, Caroline (2010). Steele, Valerie (ed.).
2325:. West Chester, Pa.: Schiffer Pub. p. 25.
1815:(in Italian). Meltemi Editore srl. p. 67.
1511:
1457:Bradley, Laura; Watt, Judith (23 August 2011).
1032:, was owned by Schiaparelli; the other two are
819:, the first semi-synthetic plastic fabric, and
620:images. Although her first designs appeared in
3399:Frocking Life: Searching for Elsa Schiaparelli
3072:Berenson, Marisa; Givenchy, Hubert de (2014).
2280:
2278:
1612:
1113:, who was one of Schiaparelli's best clients.
1074:. It was a stark black crepe dress which used
609:Armenian refugees and featuring sweaters with
329:Elsa Luisa Maria Schiaparelli was born at the
2699:
2697:
2287:
1952:
1950:
1948:
37:Schiaparelli in 1937, wearing her own designs
3368:
2903:
2531:
2529:
2183:
2181:
2179:
2177:
2175:
2173:
2171:
2169:
2159:
2157:
1765:
1763:
1667:. Philadelphia Museum of Art. Archived from
1375:, with whom she had two children, the actor
1286:in the shape of a woman's torso inspired by
1282:" (1936), contained in a bottle sculpted by
1190:
897:Evening coat designed in collaboration with
613:
3304:Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Paris Fashion
3227:
2436:
2275:
2048:
2046:
1456:
1098:In 1933, DalĂ was photographed by his wife
1034:The Dream Places a Hand on a Man's Shoulder
3455:"The Shocking Career of Elsa Schiaparelli"
3447:"Microsite for the "Shocking!" exhibition"
3051:"Jewelry That Gleams With Wicked Memories"
2906:"Schiaparelli to Sell by Appointment Only"
2762:
2760:
2728:
2726:
2694:
2502:
2500:
2498:
2404:. London: Dorling Kindersley. p. 63.
2259:
2257:
2255:
2227:
2225:
1945:
1791:. New York. 13 August 1934. Archived from
1215:acquired the company, but it wasn't until
31:
3405:. Rizzoli International. pp. 1â472.
2771:. London: John Murray. pp. 126â127.
2766:
2650:
2626:
2624:
2526:
2166:
2154:
1760:
1655:
1653:
1247:is applied most often". At the same time
3189:Nylon: The Story of a Fashion Revolution
3065:
2926:
2597:
2595:
2593:
2305:
2297:. Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
2267:. Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
2081:
2052:
2043:
1651:
1649:
1647:
1645:
1643:
1641:
1639:
1637:
1635:
1633:
1411:(September 2003 â January 2004) and the
1262:
1120:
892:
888:
795:
599:
595:
554:
546:
538:
398:job) caring for orphaned children in an
301:Schiaparelli famously collaborated with
3332:Elsa Schiaparelli (Universe of Fashion)
3275:Encyclopaedia of Clothing & Fashion
3248:
3186:
3112:
3038:from the original on 21 September 2013.
3024:
2815:from the original on 21 September 2013.
2757:
2723:
2555:
2495:
2469:
2467:
2301:from the original on 13 September 2012.
2271:from the original on 21 September 2013.
2252:
2232:Haldane, Elizabeth-Anne (Spring 2007).
2231:
2222:
1779:
1777:
1775:
1444:
732:
3502:
3329:
3270:
3205:
2979:
2927:Michault, Jessica (30 November 2022).
2621:
2586:from the original on 22 February 2012.
2551:from the original on 22 February 2012.
2486:
2482:from the original on 16 December 2010.
2442:
2397:
2372:
1459:"Pronunciation Guide:ElsaSchiaparelli"
811:in 1930. Rather than being concealed,
3471:Catalogue text accompanying the 1984
3136:
3048:
2885:. Schiaparelli.com. 30 September 2013
2826:Buck, Joan Juliet (31 October 2013).
2753:from the original on 8 December 2011.
2590:
2345:
2187:
1812:Un secolo di moda italiana, 1900â2000
1808:
1630:
1569:"Elsa Schiaparelli par Farida Khelfa"
1365:. Both sisters appeared regularly in
1221:Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
277:
3348:
3254:Elsa Schiaparelli : a biography
3149:from the original on 20 August 2013.
3108:from the original on 1 January 2008.
2825:
2464:
2339:
2320:
2106:
1772:
1718:(4). London Review of Books: 15â16.
1705:
1383:. In 2014, Marisa collaborated with
1211:today. In 2007, Italian businessman
1199:was first opened in the 1930s at 21
3428:Works by or about Elsa Schiaparelli
3396:; Druesedow, Jean (17 March 2015).
3126:from the original on 11 April 2012.
2743:"Elsa Schiaparelli: Hat (1974.139)"
2690:from the original on 18 March 2009.
2617:from the original on 18 March 2009.
2522:from the original on 18 March 2009.
2352:. Oxford : Berg. pp. 619â621.
2113:Colin McDowell: The Fashion Website
2109:"The Fashion Website: Schiaparelli"
1730:from the original on 11 April 2012.
1706:Hill, Rosemary (19 February 2004).
703:, it is actually from stanza XV of
634:to acquiring the renowned salon of
13:
3520:20th-century Italian women artists
3322:
3122:. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
3076:. London: Double-Barrelled Books.
2719:from the original on 9 March 2012.
2646:from the original on 13 June 2011.
1177:She famously dressed Mae West for
1148:'s outfits for the 1952 biopic of
784:, Schiaparelli's popularly named "
744:
534:
14:
3571:
3421:
3334:. Universe Publishing (Rizzoli).
3074:Elsa Schiaparelli's Private Album
3061:from the original on 4 July 2012.
2904:Socha, Miles (19 February 2014).
2828:"Schiaparelli: A Shocking Return"
2801:"1953 Schiaparelli evening dress"
2747:Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History
2375:Costume jewelry for haute couture
1389:Elsa Schiaparelli's Private Album
579:
101:Wilhelm Frederick Wendt de Kerlor
2879:"Marco Zanini Creative Director"
2473:
1172:Academy Award for Costume Design
1116:
782:Prohibition in the United States
237:
156:
115:
3535:Italian women fashion designers
3156:
3130:
3090:
3042:
2998:
2973:
2946:
2920:
2871:
2846:
2819:
2793:
2735:
2668:
2659:
2564:
2427:
2418:
2391:
2366:
2314:
2213:
2204:
2126:
2100:
2075:
2034:
2025:
2016:
2007:
1998:
1977:
1968:
1959:
1936:
1927:
1918:
1909:
1900:
1891:
1882:
1873:
1864:
1855:
1829:
1802:
1734:
1699:
1002:shortly before her marriage to
454:Federal Bureau of Investigation
353:, had discovered the so-called
111:
3137:Leung, Mariana (4 July 2013).
3010:V&A Search the Collections
2952:
2448:Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader
1888:Secrest, p. 34, 37, 39, 42, 44
1686:
1587:
1561:
1546:Merriam-Webster.com Dictionary
1533:
1505:
1476:
1450:
1427:The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1398:
994:in a series of photographs by
1:
3555:Italian expatriates in France
3271:Steele, Valerie, ed. (2005).
2349:The Berg companion to fashion
1521:(5th ed.). HarperCollins
984:in 1935, and the mixed-media
791:
642:, which was rechristened the
324:
47:Elsa Luisa Maria Schiaparelli
2705:"Shoe Hat worn by Gala DalĂ"
2238:V&A Conservation Journal
1415:, Paris (MarchâAugust 2004).
1050:produced in response to the
846:
7:
3525:Fashion designers from Rome
3369:Schiaparelli, Elsa (2007).
3300:St Laurent (Foreword), Yves
3228:Scarisbrick, Diana (2004).
3057:(published 13 April 1997).
2984:. London: Frances Lincoln.
2377:. New York: Vendome Press.
2321:Ball, Joanne Dubbs (1990).
2061:. Penguin UK. p. 266.
2057:. In Skelton, Robin (ed.).
1425:; The Costume Institute of
1302:(Ram's Head) pink diamond.
1258:
867:
856:, fur-lined metal cuffs by
452:, (BOI) a precursor of the
405:
369:who discovered the tomb of
347:Sapienza University of Rome
279:[ËÉlsaskjapaËrÉlli]
10:
3576:
3540:Italian surrealist artists
3484:Victoria and Albert Museum
3377:(published 1 March 2007).
3375:Victoria and Albert Museum
3187:Handley, Susannah (2000).
3173:Philadelphia Museum of Art
3102:Philadelphia Museum of Art
2809:Victoria and Albert Museum
2769:The Secret Lives of Colour
2767:St. Clair, Kassia (2016).
2713:Victoria and Albert Museum
2684:Victoria and Albert Museum
2640:Philadelphia Museum of Art
2611:Victoria and Albert Museum
2580:Philadelphia Museum of Art
2545:Philadelphia Museum of Art
2516:Victoria and Albert Museum
1995:Secrest, p. 28-30, 53, 61a
1712:The London Review of Books
1624:Philadelphia Museum of Art
1423:: Impossible Conversations
1409:Philadelphia Museum of Art
729:returned to the business.
3530:Italian fashion designers
3330:Baudot, Francois (1997).
3279:. Thomson Gale. pp.
2373:Muller, Florence (2007).
2234:"Surreal semi-synthetics"
1843:(in Italian). 4 June 2021
1438:Musee des Arts Decoratifs
1352:
1305:Other perfumes included:
1235:
1191:The House of Schiaparelli
1150:Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec
1044:saw the Tears Dress as a
133:
125:
95:
87:
68:
42:
30:
23:
3545:Women surrealist artists
3211:Fashion & Surrealism
3049:Owens, Mitchell (1997).
2953:FR, FashionNetwork com.
2210:Secrest, p. 118-119, 174
2082:McDowell, Colin (1988).
2053:MacNeice, Louis (2000).
373:and was Director of the
2980:Gipson, Ferren (2022).
2398:Miller, Judith (2007).
1798:(subscription required)
1495:Oxford University Press
1030:Necrophiliac Springtime
956:
450:Bureau of Investigation
284:aristocratic background
3473:Hommage a Schiaparelli
3349:Blum, Dilys E (2003).
2476:"Une Grande Curiosité"
2059:Poetry of the Thirties
2004:Secrest, p. 33, 55, 74
1924:Secrest, p. 17, 30, 36
1275:
1158:in which Gabor played
1135:
978:shown in the magazine
906:
804:
676:
662:And a smile like a cat
614:
605:
560:
552:
544:
335:Celestino Schiaparelli
2188:Woods, Vicki (2003).
1915:Secrest, p. 26-27, 44
1809:Gnoli, Sofia (2005).
1692:Elsa Schiaparelliâ s
1491:UK English Dictionary
1393:Giovanni Schiaparelli
1266:
1197:House of Schiaparelli
1180:Every Day's a Holiday
1124:
896:
889:Artist collaborations
799:
759:Diane von FĂŒrstenberg
653:
603:
596:House of Schiaparelli
558:
550:
542:
400:English country house
351:Giovanni Schiaparelli
331:Palazzo Corsini, Rome
288:house of Schiaparelli
2805:Collections database
2709:Collections database
2680:Collections database
2676:"The Skeleton Dress"
2636:Collections database
2607:Collections database
2576:Collections database
2541:Collections database
2512:Collections database
2219:Secrest, p. 153, 154
1484:"Schiaparelli, Elsa"
1445:Notes and references
1387:to publish the book
733:Later life and death
363:Ernesto Schiaparelli
114: 1914;
2732:Martin, pp.110â111.
2572:"The Lobster Dress"
2284:Scarisbrick, p. 211
2194:The Daily Telegraph
2055:"Autumn Journal XV"
3256:. Alfred A Knopf.
3055:The New York Times
2959:FashionNetwork.com
2561:Martin, pp.118â120
2022:Secrest, p. 63, 65
1983:Secrest, p. 63, 67
1870:Secrest, p. 19, 20
1575:. 12 December 2012
1501:on 31 August 2022.
1385:Hubert de Givenchy
1276:
1144:, and ending with
1136:
1054:and the spread of
935:Alberto Giacometti
907:
854:Alberto Giacometti
805:
802:Alberto Giacometti
687:, stanza XV, 1939.
606:
561:
553:
545:
475:Russian Revolution
286:. She created the
3550:Artists from Rome
3491:Elsa Schiaparelli
3384:978-1-85177-515-6
3360:978-0-300-10066-2
3341:978-0-7893-0116-1
3313:978-1-85410-358-1
3220:978-0-8478-1073-4
3198:978-0-8018-6325-7
2991:978-0-7112-6465-6
2656:Martin, p.136-137
2632:"The Tears Dress"
2603:"The Tears Dress"
2401:Costume jewellery
2107:McDowell, Colin.
1965:Secrest, p 66, 57
1906:Secrest, p. 28-30
1769:Secrest, p. 4, 5,
1708:"Hard-Edged Chic"
1549:. Merriam-Webster
1434:Christian Lacroix
1429:(MayâAugust 2012)
1419:Schiaparelli and
1379:and the musician
1361:and photographer
1213:Diego Della Valle
1078:to create padded
1076:trapunto quilting
1072:Circus Collection
1052:Spanish Civil War
1022:Circus Collection
987:Lobster Telephone
841:Jean Schlumberger
821:cellulose acetate
817:cellulose nitrate
559:Elsa Schiaparelli
551:Elsa Schiaparelli
543:Elsa Schiaparelli
445:Café des Artistes
441:Greenwich Village
152:Elsa Schiaparelli
149:
148:
57:10 September 1890
25:Elsa Schiaparelli
3567:
3487:
3470:
3468:
3466:
3457:. Archived from
3450:
3441:
3432:Internet Archive
3416:
3404:
3388:
3364:
3345:
3317:
3294:
3278:
3267:
3245:
3224:
3202:
3183:
3181:
3175:. Archived from
3170:
3151:
3150:
3134:
3128:
3127:
3116:
3110:
3109:
3094:
3088:
3087:
3069:
3063:
3062:
3046:
3040:
3039:
3028:
3022:
3021:
3019:
3017:
3002:
2996:
2995:
2977:
2971:
2970:
2968:
2966:
2950:
2944:
2943:
2941:
2939:
2924:
2918:
2917:
2915:
2913:
2901:
2895:
2894:
2892:
2890:
2875:
2869:
2868:
2866:
2864:
2850:
2844:
2843:
2841:
2839:
2823:
2817:
2816:
2797:
2791:
2790:
2764:
2755:
2754:
2739:
2733:
2730:
2721:
2720:
2701:
2692:
2691:
2672:
2666:
2663:
2657:
2654:
2648:
2647:
2628:
2619:
2618:
2599:
2588:
2587:
2568:
2562:
2559:
2553:
2552:
2533:
2524:
2523:
2504:
2493:
2490:
2484:
2483:
2471:
2462:
2461:
2440:
2434:
2431:
2425:
2422:
2416:
2415:
2395:
2389:
2388:
2370:
2364:
2363:
2343:
2337:
2336:
2318:
2312:
2309:
2303:
2302:
2291:
2285:
2282:
2273:
2272:
2261:
2250:
2249:
2247:
2245:
2229:
2220:
2217:
2211:
2208:
2202:
2201:
2185:
2164:
2161:
2152:
2151:
2149:
2147:
2130:
2124:
2123:
2121:
2119:
2104:
2098:
2097:
2079:
2073:
2072:
2050:
2041:
2038:
2032:
2029:
2023:
2020:
2014:
2011:
2005:
2002:
1996:
1993:
1984:
1981:
1975:
1972:
1966:
1963:
1957:
1954:
1943:
1940:
1934:
1931:
1925:
1922:
1916:
1913:
1907:
1904:
1898:
1895:
1889:
1886:
1880:
1877:
1871:
1868:
1862:
1859:
1853:
1852:
1850:
1848:
1833:
1827:
1826:
1806:
1800:
1799:
1796:
1795:on 16 July 2007.
1781:
1770:
1767:
1758:
1757:
1755:
1753:
1738:
1732:
1731:
1703:
1697:
1690:
1684:
1683:
1681:
1679:
1673:
1666:
1657:
1628:
1627:
1616:
1610:
1609:
1607:
1605:
1591:
1585:
1584:
1582:
1580:
1573:L'Orient-Le Jour
1565:
1559:
1558:
1556:
1554:
1537:
1531:
1530:
1528:
1526:
1509:
1503:
1502:
1497:. Archived from
1480:
1474:
1473:
1471:
1469:
1454:
1413:Musée de la Mode
1226:Daniel Roseberry
1000:Chùteau de Candé
947:optical illusion
901:, London, 1937.
688:
619:
524:and the actress
514:Alfred Stieglitz
468:sympathizer and
281:
276:
269:
263:
262:
259:
258:
255:
252:
249:
246:
243:
236:
225:
221:
217:
212:
211:
208:
207:
204:
201:
198:
193:
192:
189:
186:
183:
180:
177:
174:
171:
168:
165:
162:
119:
117:
113:
91:Fashion designer
75:
72:13 November 1973
56:
54:
35:
21:
20:
3575:
3574:
3570:
3569:
3568:
3566:
3565:
3564:
3500:
3499:
3486:. 29 July 2015.
3478:
3464:
3462:
3461:on 2 March 2012
3453:
3445:
3436:
3424:
3419:
3413:
3402:
3385:
3361:
3342:
3325:
3323:Further reading
3320:
3314:
3298:White, Palmer;
3291:
3264:
3250:Secrest, Meryle
3242:
3221:
3207:Martin, Richard
3199:
3182:on 29 May 2008.
3179:
3168:
3159:
3154:
3135:
3131:
3118:
3117:
3113:
3096:
3095:
3091:
3084:
3070:
3066:
3047:
3043:
3030:
3029:
3025:
3015:
3013:
3004:
3003:
2999:
2992:
2978:
2974:
2964:
2962:
2951:
2947:
2937:
2935:
2925:
2921:
2911:
2909:
2902:
2898:
2888:
2886:
2877:
2876:
2872:
2862:
2860:
2858:www.societe.com
2852:
2851:
2847:
2837:
2835:
2824:
2820:
2799:
2798:
2794:
2779:
2765:
2758:
2741:
2740:
2736:
2731:
2724:
2703:
2702:
2695:
2674:
2673:
2669:
2664:
2660:
2655:
2651:
2630:
2629:
2622:
2601:
2600:
2591:
2570:
2569:
2565:
2560:
2556:
2535:
2534:
2527:
2506:
2505:
2496:
2491:
2487:
2472:
2465:
2458:
2444:Steele, Valerie
2441:
2437:
2432:
2428:
2424:Handley, p. 192
2423:
2419:
2412:
2396:
2392:
2385:
2371:
2367:
2360:
2344:
2340:
2333:
2319:
2315:
2310:
2306:
2293:
2292:
2288:
2283:
2276:
2263:
2262:
2253:
2243:
2241:
2230:
2223:
2218:
2214:
2209:
2205:
2200:on 18 May 2008.
2186:
2167:
2162:
2155:
2145:
2143:
2131:
2127:
2117:
2115:
2105:
2101:
2094:
2080:
2076:
2069:
2051:
2044:
2039:
2035:
2030:
2026:
2021:
2017:
2012:
2008:
2003:
1999:
1994:
1987:
1982:
1978:
1973:
1969:
1964:
1960:
1956:Secrest, p. 84.
1955:
1946:
1942:Secrest, p. 53,
1941:
1937:
1932:
1928:
1923:
1919:
1914:
1910:
1905:
1901:
1897:Secrest, p. 20.
1896:
1892:
1887:
1883:
1878:
1874:
1869:
1865:
1861:Secrest, 14, 15
1860:
1856:
1846:
1844:
1835:
1834:
1830:
1823:
1807:
1803:
1797:
1785:"Haute Couture"
1783:
1782:
1773:
1768:
1761:
1751:
1749:
1746:www.treccani.it
1740:
1739:
1735:
1704:
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1373:Anthony Perkins
1359:Marisa Berenson
1355:
1336:(for men; 1939)
1261:
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1119:
1106:Harper's Bazaar
981:American Weekly
959:
931:MĂ©ret Oppenheim
891:
870:
858:MĂ©ret Oppenheim
849:
794:
766:Lili de Alvarez
747:
745:Notable designs
735:
690:
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570:Société Anonyme
537:
535:Return to Paris
518:Edward Steichen
502:Francis Picabia
422:fortune-telling
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145:(granddaughter)
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138:Marisa Berenson
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118: 1924)
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2015:
2013:Secrest, p. 68
2006:
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1733:
1698:
1685:
1674:on 29 May 2008
1629:
1611:
1599:gallica.bnf.fr
1586:
1560:
1541:"Schiaparelli"
1532:
1513:"Schiaparelli"
1504:
1475:
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1354:
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1325:
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1300:TĂȘte de Belier
1296:Daisy Fellowes
1260:
1257:
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1209:actual company
1192:
1189:
1118:
1115:
1111:Daisy Fellowes
1096:
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1066:Skeleton Dress
1042:Richard Martin
1012:
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992:Wallis Simpson
968:
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883:Diana Vreeland
869:
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719:Christian Dior
706:Autumn Journal
697:Louis MacNeice
693:Colin McDowell
685:Autumn Journal
681:Louis MacNeice
675:
674:
669:
664:
659:
652:
636:Louise Chéruit
632:Rue de la Paix
628:Robert Perrier
597:
594:
581:
580:Fashion career
578:
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522:Isadora Duncan
510:Marcel Duchamp
407:
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365:, was a noted
359:Martian canals
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2474:Webb, Peter.
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2457:0-04-440824-2
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2433:Handley, p.27
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2093:9780135669280
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2019:
2010:
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1381:Elvis Perkins
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1307:
1306:
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1301:
1297:
1293:
1292:shocking pink
1289:
1285:
1281:
1273:
1272:Marcel VertĂšs
1269:
1265:
1256:
1253:
1250:
1245:
1244:
1233:
1231:
1230:Ready-to-wear
1227:
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1218:
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1206:
1202:
1201:Place VendĂŽme
1198:
1188:
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1169:
1168:Marcel VertĂšs
1165:
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1147:
1146:Zsa Zsa Gabor
1143:
1142:
1133:
1132:
1127:
1126:Zsa Zsa Gabor
1123:
1117:Film costumes
1114:
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1043:
1039:
1035:
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1023:
1019:
1018:
1009:
1008:
1007:
1005:
1001:
998:taken at the
997:
993:
989:
988:
983:
982:
977:
973:
972:Lobster dress
966:Lobster dress
965:
964:
963:
954:
952:
948:
945:creating the
943:
938:
936:
932:
928:
924:
923:Salvador DalĂ
920:
916:
912:
904:
900:
895:
886:
884:
879:
875:
865:
863:
859:
855:
844:
842:
837:
833:
828:
826:
825:Charles James
823:. Along with
822:
818:
814:
810:
803:
798:
789:
787:
783:
778:
773:
771:
767:
762:
760:
756:
752:
742:
740:
739:Shocking Life
730:
728:
724:
720:
715:
714:fall of Paris
710:
708:
707:
702:
701:Bagpipe Music
698:
694:
689:
686:
682:
673:
670:
668:
665:
663:
660:
658:
655:
654:
651:
649:
648:Pierre Bullet
645:
641:
640:Place VendĂŽme
637:
633:
629:
625:
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618:
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612:
602:
593:
589:
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557:
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541:
532:
529:
527:
526:Alla Nazimova
523:
519:
515:
511:
507:
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495:
490:
488:
482:
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476:
471:
467:
463:
462:Louise Bryant
459:
455:
451:
446:
442:
437:
435:
431:
427:
423:
418:
414:
403:
401:
395:
392:
391:ancient Greek
389:based on the
388:
382:
380:
376:
372:
368:
364:
360:
356:
352:
348:
344:
340:
336:
332:
322:
320:
316:
312:
309:. Along with
308:
304:
303:Salvador DalĂ
299:
297:
293:
289:
285:
280:
272:
271:
261:
234:
228:
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210:
153:
144:
139:
136:
132:
128:
124:
98:
94:
90:
86:
81:
71:
67:
62:
45:
41:
34:
29:
22:
19:
3472:
3463:. Retrieved
3459:the original
3398:
3370:
3350:
3331:
3303:
3274:
3253:
3230:
3210:
3188:
3177:the original
3157:Bibliography
3142:
3132:
3114:
3092:
3073:
3067:
3054:
3044:
3026:
3014:. Retrieved
3009:
3000:
2981:
2975:
2963:. Retrieved
2958:
2948:
2936:. Retrieved
2933:Harper Bazar
2932:
2922:
2910:. Retrieved
2899:
2887:. Retrieved
2883:Schiaparelli
2882:
2873:
2861:. Retrieved
2857:
2848:
2836:. Retrieved
2834:. Conde Nast
2831:
2821:
2804:
2795:
2768:
2746:
2737:
2708:
2679:
2670:
2661:
2652:
2635:
2606:
2575:
2566:
2557:
2540:
2511:
2488:
2447:
2438:
2429:
2420:
2400:
2393:
2374:
2368:
2348:
2341:
2322:
2316:
2307:
2289:
2242:. Retrieved
2237:
2215:
2206:
2198:the original
2193:
2190:"Chic value"
2144:. Retrieved
2138:
2128:
2116:. Retrieved
2112:
2102:
2083:
2077:
2058:
2036:
2027:
2018:
2009:
2000:
1979:
1970:
1961:
1938:
1929:
1920:
1911:
1902:
1893:
1884:
1875:
1866:
1857:
1845:. Retrieved
1840:
1831:
1811:
1804:
1793:the original
1788:
1750:. Retrieved
1748:(in Italian)
1745:
1736:
1715:
1711:
1701:
1694:birth record
1688:
1676:. Retrieved
1669:the original
1614:
1602:. Retrieved
1598:
1589:
1577:. Retrieved
1572:
1563:
1551:. Retrieved
1544:
1535:
1523:. Retrieved
1516:
1507:
1499:the original
1487:
1478:
1466:. Retrieved
1462:
1452:
1418:
1404:
1388:
1366:
1356:
1345:
1339:
1333:
1327:
1321:
1315:
1309:
1304:
1299:
1279:
1277:
1267:
1254:
1248:
1241:
1239:
1217:Marco Zanini
1205:World War II
1194:
1184:
1178:
1176:
1164:Moulin Rouge
1163:
1155:Moulin Rouge
1153:
1139:
1137:
1131:Moulin Rouge
1129:
1104:
1097:
1071:
1069:
1047:memento mori
1045:
1037:
1033:
1029:
1021:
1017:trompe-l'Ćil
1015:
1013:
996:Cecil Beaton
985:
979:
975:
969:
960:
942:Jean Cocteau
939:
908:
905:, T.59-2005.
899:Jean Cocteau
878:Issey Miyake
871:
862:Elsa Triolet
850:
834:; or silver
829:
806:
774:
763:
755:tussore silk
748:
738:
736:
711:
704:
700:
691:
684:
677:
671:
666:
661:
656:
643:
621:
616:trompe-l'Ćil
607:
590:
583:
569:
566:
562:
530:
491:
483:
438:
409:
396:
386:
383:
375:Museo Egizio
367:Egyptologist
354:
328:
317:and actress
307:Jean Cocteau
300:
296:trompe-l'Ćil
151:
150:
74:(1973-11-13)
18:
3515:1973 deaths
3510:1890 births
3403:(Biography)
3143:Ms Fabulous
2961:(in French)
2912:19 February
2889:23 December
2838:24 December
1847:10 February
1841:Dress Me Up
1752:20 December
1399:Exhibitions
1284:Leonor Fini
1010:Tears Dress
1004:Edward VIII
927:Leonor Fini
919:Coco Chanel
836:tambourines
727:Coco Chanel
644:Schiap Shop
586:Paul Poiret
574:Paul Poiret
434:Monte Carlo
339:Piedmontese
311:Coco Chanel
3504:Categories
3465:4 February
3373:. London:
2965:24 January
2938:9 November
2863:24 January
2068:0141921455
1604:24 January
1579:24 January
1432:Couturier
1377:Oz Perkins
1340:Roi Soleil
1160:Jane Avril
1109:, heiress
915:Surrealist
792:Fastenings
751:wrap dress
611:surrealist
498:Surrealist
417:vaudeville
325:Early life
292:Surrealism
88:Occupation
53:1890-09-10
3394:BillyBoy*
3012:. V&A
2787:936144129
2140:Europeana
1724:0260-9592
1407:, at the
1280:Shocking!
1187:perfume.
1100:Gala DalĂ
1088:leg bones
970:The 1937
847:Jewellery
786:speakeasy
772:in 1931.
770:Wimbledon
479:anarchist
470:Communist
466:Bolshevik
458:John Reed
413:theosophy
371:Nefertari
134:Relatives
3302:(1995).
3252:(2014).
3209:(1996).
3147:Archived
3124:Archived
3106:Archived
3059:Archived
3036:Archived
3016:20 April
2813:Archived
2751:Archived
2717:Archived
2688:Archived
2644:Archived
2615:Archived
2584:Archived
2549:Archived
2520:Archived
2480:Archived
2299:Archived
2269:Archived
1728:Archived
1678:25 April
1553:5 August
1525:5 August
1468:18 March
1440:in 2013.
1328:Sleeping
1288:Mae West
1268:Sleeping
1259:Perfumes
1203:. After
1185:Shocking
1094:Shoe Hat
1060:slashing
868:Textiles
832:crickets
723:New Look
406:Marriage
387:Arethusa
343:Sanskrit
319:Mae West
275:Italian:
126:Children
82:, France
3430:at the
2244:5 March
2146:4 March
2118:16 July
1626:. 2003.
1463:AnOther
1274:(1939).
1056:Fascism
903:V&A
813:zippers
809:zippers
506:Man Ray
500:artist
120:
108:
104:
63:, Italy
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