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Orford Ness

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It is a place of strange contrasts. For the National Trust, its 'elemental nature' contrasts with the 'inherent dangers' of this place, a 'hostile and potentially dangerous site'. Military structures – the Bomb Ballistics Building, the Black Beacon, the 'pagodas' used for explosive design – have been
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The size and shape of the spit fluctuate over time (see map). Estimated growth rates range from 64 m per year in 1962 to 1967, to 183 m per year in 1804 to 1812. Between 1812 and 1821, the total length fluctuated by 1.8 miles (2.9 km). As a result of the dynamically changing nature of the spit,
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Orford Ness is Europe's largest vegetated shingle spit. It is approximately 10 miles (16 km) long, and the site covers a total area of approximately 2,230 acres (900 ha). Forty percent of this (890 acres) is shingle, 25 percent (556 acres) tidal rivers, mud flats, sand flats, and lagoons,
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and is open to the public under the name Orford Ness National Nature Reserve, though access is strictly controlled to protect the fragile habitats and due to a residual danger to the public from the site's former use by the military. Access is available only by the National Trust ferry from Orford
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had a base on the site, used for environmental testing, i.e. testing conducted to determine the functional performance of a component or system under conditions that simulate the real environment in which the component or system is expected to operate. Many of the buildings from this time remain
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The spit formed almost entirely of flint deposited by waves through the process of long-shore drift. The main influence on its formation has been storm waves throwing shingle over the top of the beach crest, where it is protected from ordinary wave action. Over time, this process leads to the
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Orford Ness is an internationally important site for nature conservation. It contains a significant portion of the European reserve of vegetated shingle habitat, which is internationally scarce, highly fragile, and very easily damaged. Together with
662:, before being repelled with a wall of fire. Official sources denied that any such attempted invasion took place, an assertion confirmed by classified documents released in 1993. More recently, the flashes of the lighthouse were implicated in the 298:. The Beacon was set up in 1929 and used in the pre-war era. In the 1930s Orford Ness was the site of the first purpose-built experiments on the defence system that would later be known as radar. Having proved the technology on Orford Ness, 1498: 653:
Owing to its military history, its stark appearance and the fact that it was closed to the public for many decades, several apocryphal stories have circulated about Orford Ness. The best-known is the suggestion that
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converted into viewing spots. This is not a celebratory site, however; there is ambivalence and doubt here, with regard to what is being physically and ideologically conserved.
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for Sustainable Construction) to survey the site - in particular, the AWRE Labs 4 and 5, or pagodas - using drones and a dog-like robot named Spot, manufactured by US firm
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in English around the clock to continental Europe on 648 kHz from September 1982 until March 2011. The following year, the site became disused until
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announced that the lighthouse was to be decommissioned as an aid to navigation and marked on UKHO charts as disused. It was demolished in summer 2020.
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National Nature Reserve, Site of Special Scientific Interest, internationally important site for nature conservation, former military test site
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A Nature Conservation Review: the Selection of Sites of Biological National Importance to Nature Conservation in Britain. 2 Volumes
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the true age of its formation is unknown. However, before about 1200, Orford is thought to have been a port facing the open sea.
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was built on the peninsula. It closed in 1973, and in the late 1970s and early 1980s the site and building were re-used for the
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and, after privatisation in the 1990s, a series of private companies – was best known for transmitting the
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troops attempted to invade England and actually disembarked at the tip of the peninsula near
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Orford Ness is the peninsula left of and below the river (River Alde) in this 1588 map
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eighteen percent (400 acres) grassland, and fifteen percent (330 acres) salt marsh.
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along the coast. The material of the spit comes from places further north, such as
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Geomorphological Processes and Landscape Change: Britain in the Last 1000 Years
1403:"The effects of nesting gulls on the shingle vegetation at Orford Ness Suffolk" 809: 659: 626: 242:(SSSI); the Alde, Ore & Butley Estuaries and the Orfordness-Shingle Street 202: 1242: 2021: 2003: 1990: 1613: 1547: 1291: 965: 819: 795:
formation of stable ridges of fine particles, and swails of coarser shingle.
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Note: Woodward states that the testing grounds closed in the early 1990s.
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Orford Ness National Nature Reserve information at the National Trust
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radar system in time for its vital role in the Battle of Britain.
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National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
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The Northmen in New England, Or, America in the Tenth Century
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In September 2023, the National Trust employed contractor
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In the late 1960s an experimental Anglo-American military
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Orford Ness, Suffolk, showing locations of main sites.
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includes history from First World War onwards (2009).
1436:"Coastal habitat restoration – towards good practice" 964:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee. Archived from 1569:– An interesting insight into village life in Orford 1519: 1468: 1458:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee. January 2001. 822:
Norman keep overlooking Orfordness and Orford Island
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View from the Orford Ness dock towards Orford Quay.
1573:English Heritage survey report on AWRE Orford Ness 193:coast in Great Britain, linked to the mainland at 1469:Lee, E. Mark; Higgitt, David L. (December 2001). 851:Aeroplane and Armament Experimental Establishment 2019: 1608: 1524:. Heinemann Educational Publishers. p. 48. 322:at Orford, including the distinctive 'pagodas'. 294:, one of the earliest experiments in long-range 290:. The site was selected as the location for the 282:The peninsula was formerly administered by the 786:Map showing Orford Ness and historical extent. 52:Looking towards Orford Ness from Orford castle 1594: 1520:Bowen, Ann; Pallister, John (November 2001). 1363: 883: 853:, yet another nearby experimental station at 629:began broadcasting from it in December 2017. 1548:LIFE+ project; Alde-Ore future for wildlife 828:, a type of British military aircraft paint 1601: 1587: 1522:Advanced Geography for AQA Specification A 613:station – originally owned and run by the 1265:"'Original' pirate radio station returns" 1136: 205:. It is divided from the mainland by the 1462: 1396: 1394: 1392: 1371:"Robot dog surveys nuclear weapons site" 1326: 882:The name 'ness' means 'promontory'. See 781: 273: 238:and forms part of: the Alde-Ore Estuary 16:Coastal shingle spit in Suffolk, England 1558:Orfordness and Orford Island Boat Trips 1447: 1445: 1427: 201:and down to North Weir Point, opposite 2020: 1513: 1497:. National Trust. 2006. Archived from 1240: 1126:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee. 1060:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee. 1046:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee. 1032:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee. 1018:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee. 942: 940: 1582: 1560:– Lady Florence, Orford Quay, Suffolk 1487: 1473:. Blackwell Publishing. p. 168. 1389: 1292:"Orford Ness National Nature Reserve" 719:'Black Beacon' radio navigation tower 315:Atomic Weapons Research Establishment 147:Atomic Weapons Research Establishment 2038:National Trust properties in Suffolk 1442: 1016:"Alde, Ore and Butley Estuaries SAC" 893:. Hilliard, Gray, & co. p.  254:site; the Suffolk Coasts and Heaths 1169: 1130: 1124:"Orfordness and Shingle Street GCR" 937: 240:Site of Special Scientific Interest 70: 13: 826:Night Invisible Varnish Orfordness 256:Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty 197:and stretching along the coast to 14: 2074: 1541: 1400: 1327:Woodward, Rachel (October 2004). 1243:"mb21 - The Transmission Gallery" 1100:. Natural England. Archived from 1074:. Natural England. Archived from 2043:Nature Conservation Review sites 1289: 1072:"Suffolk Coasts and Heaths AONB" 765: 753: 741: 726: 710: 698: 666:of late December 1980. In 2013, 632:Orford Ness is now owned by the 578: 566: 559: 547: 540: 528: 516: 504: 497: 483: 476: 462: 455: 443: 436: 415: 408: 396: 342: 335: 328: 69: 62: 46: 21:For the place in Australia, see 1345: 1320: 1306: 1283: 1257: 1234: 1208: 1186: 1163: 1145: 1116: 1090: 1064: 1030:"Orfordness-Shingle Street SAC" 921:. Trinity House. Archived from 876: 867: 735:Orfordness transmitting station 664:Rendlesham Forest UFO sightings 607:Orfordness transmitting station 262:(GC), as a grade 1 site in the 2048:Tourist attractions in Suffolk 1050: 1036: 1022: 1008: 994: 980: 954: 911: 844:, another research station at 637:Quay on designated open days. 260:Geological Conservation Review 224: 1: 1453:"Orfordness – Shingle Street" 1141:. Cambridge University Press. 905: 842:Seaplane Experimental Station 302:and his team moved to nearby 777: 641:have also visited the site. 250:(SPA); the Alde-Ore Estuary 246:(SAC); the Alde-Ore Estuary 244:Special Area of Conservation 7: 1495:"Coastal vegetated shingle" 1153:"Suffolk River Valleys ESA" 962:"Coastal Vegetated Shingle" 802: 10: 2079: 988:"Orfordness-Havergate NNR" 269: 264:Nature Conservation Review 20: 1941: 1843: 1620: 1433:Annex 06: Orfordness in: 1137:Ratcliffe, D. A. (1977). 1058:"Alde-Ore Estuary Ramsar" 855:Martlesham Heath Airfield 760:Exterior of two 'pagodas' 683:University College London 524:R i v e r   A l d e 318:clearly visible from the 234:the site is a designated 169: 164: 156: 138: 133: 125: 88: 57: 45: 35: 30: 1331:. Blackwell Publishing. 1216:"Orfordness Visitor Map" 1098:"Suffolk Heritage Coast" 860: 644:Rachel Woodward writes: 1438:. English Nature. 2003. 1271:. BBC. 21 December 2017 1002:"Alde-Ore Estuary SSSI" 919:"Orfordness Lighthouse" 536:R i v e r   O r e 248:Special Protection Area 236:National Nature Reserve 23:Apudthama National Park 1375:The Construction Index 1044:"Alde-Ore Estuary SPA" 950:. BBC. 11 August 2020. 787: 772:Interior of a 'pagoda' 651: 599:over-the-horizon radar 279: 885:Toulmin Smith, Joshua 785: 646: 277: 219:Orfordness Lighthouse 2033:Landforms of Suffolk 2004:52.08139°N 1.55861°E 1567:by Charlie Underwood 1501:on 30 September 2007 1353:"Notice to mariners" 1329:Military Geographies 1314:"Exploration Report" 209:, and was formed by 110:52.08139°N 1.55861°E 2000: /  1377:. 11 September 2023 1104:on 8 September 2008 733:Aerial view of the 284:Ministry of Defence 143:Ministry of Defence 106: /  2063:Beaches of Suffolk 1196:. Historic England 1004:. Natural England. 990:. Natural England. 925:on 31 October 2007 808:Wartime events at 788: 721:and the lighthouse 306:and developed the 300:Robert Watson-Watt 280: 2009:52.08139; 1.55861 1983: 1982: 1755:Lynmouth Foreland 623:BBC World Service 611:medium-wave radio 451:Orfordness Beacon 292:Orfordness Beacon 177: 176: 173:1913 – early 1983 115:52.08139; 1.55861 2070: 2053:Spits of England 2015: 2014: 2012: 2011: 2010: 2005: 2001: 1998: 1997: 1996: 1993: 1700:Guile Point East 1603: 1596: 1589: 1580: 1579: 1536: 1535: 1517: 1511: 1510: 1508: 1506: 1491: 1485: 1484: 1466: 1460: 1459: 1457: 1449: 1440: 1439: 1431: 1425: 1424: 1422: 1420: 1414: 1407: 1398: 1387: 1386: 1384: 1382: 1367: 1361: 1360: 1355:. Archived from 1349: 1343: 1342: 1324: 1318: 1317: 1310: 1304: 1303: 1301: 1299: 1294:. 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Index

Apudthama National Park
Orford, Suffolk

Orford Ness is located in Suffolk
52°04′53″N 01°33′31″E / 52.08139°N 1.55861°E / 52.08139; 1.55861
Ministry of Defence
Atomic Weapons Research Establishment
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
cuspate foreland
shingle spit
Suffolk
Aldeburgh
Orford
Shingle Street
River Alde
longshore drift
Dunwich
Orfordness Lighthouse
Havergate Island
National Nature Reserve
Site of Special Scientific Interest
Special Area of Conservation
Special Protection Area
Ramsar Site
Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty
Geological Conservation Review
Nature Conservation Review

Ministry of Defence
Cold War

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