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It is a place of strange contrasts. For the
National Trust, its 'elemental nature' contrasts with the 'inherent dangers' of this place, a 'hostile and potentially dangerous site'. Military structures – the Bomb Ballistics Building, the Black Beacon, the 'pagodas' used for explosive design – have been
798:
The size and shape of the spit fluctuate over time (see map). Estimated growth rates range from 64 m per year in 1962 to 1967, to 183 m per year in 1804 to 1812. Between 1812 and 1821, the total length fluctuated by 1.8 miles (2.9 km). As a result of the dynamically changing nature of the spit,
790:
Orford Ness is Europe's largest vegetated shingle spit. It is approximately 10 miles (16 km) long, and the site covers a total area of approximately 2,230 acres (900 ha). Forty percent of this (890 acres) is shingle, 25 percent (556 acres) tidal rivers, mud flats, sand flats, and lagoons,
636:
and is open to the public under the name Orford Ness
National Nature Reserve, though access is strictly controlled to protect the fragile habitats and due to a residual danger to the public from the site's former use by the military. Access is available only by the National Trust ferry from Orford
317:
had a base on the site, used for environmental testing, i.e. testing conducted to determine the functional performance of a component or system under conditions that simulate the real environment in which the component or system is expected to operate. Many of the buildings from this time remain
794:
The spit formed almost entirely of flint deposited by waves through the process of long-shore drift. The main influence on its formation has been storm waves throwing shingle over the top of the beach crest, where it is protected from ordinary wave action. Over time, this process leads to the
1494:
693:. Concrete decay meant the buildings could not be safely surveyed by human surveyors. National Trust archaeologist Angus Wainwright said the team wanted "to see if it's possible to do a really detailed building survey with no human operator in the building."
229:
Orford Ness is an internationally important site for nature conservation. It contains a significant portion of the
European reserve of vegetated shingle habitat, which is internationally scarce, highly fragile, and very easily damaged. Together with
662:, before being repelled with a wall of fire. Official sources denied that any such attempted invasion took place, an assertion confirmed by classified documents released in 1993. More recently, the flashes of the lighthouse were implicated in the
298:. The Beacon was set up in 1929 and used in the pre-war era. In the 1930s Orford Ness was the site of the first purpose-built experiments on the defence system that would later be known as radar. Having proved the technology on Orford Ness,
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653:
Owing to its military history, its stark appearance and the fact that it was closed to the public for many decades, several apocryphal stories have circulated about Orford Ness. The best-known is the suggestion that
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converted into viewing spots. This is not a celebratory site, however; there is ambivalence and doubt here, with regard to what is being physically and ideologically conserved.
221:, demolished in summer 2020 owing to the encroaching sea. In the name of the lighthouse (and the radio transmitting station – see below), 'Orfordness' is written as one word.
689:
for
Sustainable Construction) to survey the site - in particular, the AWRE Labs 4 and 5, or pagodas - using drones and a dog-like robot named Spot, manufactured by US firm
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699:
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in
English around the clock to continental Europe on 648 kHz from September 1982 until March 2011. The following year, the site became disused until
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announced that the lighthouse was to be decommissioned as an aid to navigation and marked on UKHO charts as disused. It was demolished in summer 2020.
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National Nature
Reserve, Site of Special Scientific Interest, internationally important site for nature conservation, former military test site
2037:
727:
1593:
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1313:
1139:
A Nature
Conservation Review: the Selection of Sites of Biological National Importance to Nature Conservation in Britain. 2 Volumes
2047:
1988:
799:
the true age of its formation is unknown. However, before about 1200, Orford is thought to have been a port facing the open sea.
605:
was built on the peninsula. It closed in 1973, and in the late 1970s and early 1980s the site and building were re-used for the
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and, after privatisation in the 1990s, a series of private companies – was best known for transmitting the
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1194:"Orford Ness: the Atomic Weapons Research Establishment test buildings and associated structures"
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troops attempted to invade
England and actually disembarked at the tip of the peninsula near
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258:(AONB); and the Suffolk Heritage Coast. It is also listed as of national importance in the
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Orford Ness is the peninsula left of and below the river (River Alde) in this 1588 map
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eighteen percent (400 acres) grassland, and fifteen percent (330 acres) salt marsh.
1684:
1408:. School of Biological Sciences, University of East Anglia, Norwich. Archived from
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498:
295:
231:
217:. Near the middle point of its length, at the foreland point or 'Ness', once stood
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along the coast. The material of the spit comes from places further north, such as
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1942:
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266:. (NCR) and qualifies for the DEFRA Environmentally Sensitive Area (ESA) scheme.
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Geomorphological
Processes and Landscape Change: Britain in the Last 1000 Years
1403:"The effects of nesting gulls on the shingle vegetation at Orford Ness Suffolk"
809:
659:
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242:(SSSI); the Alde, Ore & Butley Estuaries and the Orfordness-Shingle Street
202:
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2003:
1990:
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formation of stable ridges of fine particles, and swails of coarser shingle.
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Note: Woodward states that the testing grounds closed in the early 1990s.
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782:
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286:, which conducted secret military tests during both world wars and the
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1946:
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Orford Ness
National Nature Reserve information at the National Trust
194:
1155:. Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs. Archived from
948:"Orfordness Lighthouse: Historic Suffolk landmark reduced to rubble"
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1043:
287:
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radar system in time for its vital role in the Battle of Britain.
1621:
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National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
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The Northmen in New England, Or, America in the Tenth Century
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In September 2023, the National Trust employed contractor
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In the late 1960s an experimental Anglo-American military
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1172:"The Birthplace of Radar - Orford Ness' Greatest Secret"
812:, Suffolk, are explored in more detail in two books by
592:
Orford Ness, Suffolk, showing locations of main sites.
1575:
includes history from First World War onwards (2009).
1436:"Coastal habitat restoration – towards good practice"
964:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee. Archived from
1569:– An interesting insight into village life in Orford
1519:
1468:
1458:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee. January 2001.
822:
Norman keep overlooking Orfordness and Orford Island
705:
View from the Orford Ness dock towards Orford Quay.
1573:English Heritage survey report on AWRE Orford Ness
193:coast in Great Britain, linked to the mainland at
1469:Lee, E. Mark; Higgitt, David L. (December 2001).
851:Aeroplane and Armament Experimental Establishment
2019:
1608:
1524:. Heinemann Educational Publishers. p. 48.
322:at Orford, including the distinctive 'pagodas'.
294:, one of the earliest experiments in long-range
290:. The site was selected as the location for the
282:The peninsula was formerly administered by the
786:Map showing Orford Ness and historical extent.
52:Looking towards Orford Ness from Orford castle
1594:
1520:Bowen, Ann; Pallister, John (November 2001).
1363:
883:
853:, yet another nearby experimental station at
629:began broadcasting from it in December 2017.
1548:LIFE+ project; Alde-Ore future for wildlife
828:, a type of British military aircraft paint
1601:
1587:
1522:Advanced Geography for AQA Specification A
613:station – originally owned and run by the
1265:"'Original' pirate radio station returns"
1136:
205:. It is divided from the mainland by the
1462:
1396:
1394:
1392:
1371:"Robot dog surveys nuclear weapons site"
1326:
882:The name 'ness' means 'promontory'. See
781:
273:
238:and forms part of: the Alde-Ore Estuary
16:Coastal shingle spit in Suffolk, England
1558:Orfordness and Orford Island Boat Trips
1447:
1445:
1427:
201:and down to North Weir Point, opposite
2020:
1513:
1497:. National Trust. 2006. Archived from
1240:
1126:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee.
1060:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee.
1046:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee.
1032:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee.
1018:. Joint Nature Conservation Committee.
942:
940:
1582:
1560:– Lady Florence, Orford Quay, Suffolk
1487:
1473:. Blackwell Publishing. p. 168.
1389:
1292:"Orford Ness National Nature Reserve"
719:'Black Beacon' radio navigation tower
315:Atomic Weapons Research Establishment
147:Atomic Weapons Research Establishment
2038:National Trust properties in Suffolk
1442:
1016:"Alde, Ore and Butley Estuaries SAC"
893:. Hilliard, Gray, & co. p.
254:site; the Suffolk Coasts and Heaths
1169:
1130:
1124:"Orfordness and Shingle Street GCR"
937:
240:Site of Special Scientific Interest
70:
13:
826:Night Invisible Varnish Orfordness
256:Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty
197:and stretching along the coast to
14:
2074:
1541:
1400:
1327:Woodward, Rachel (October 2004).
1243:"mb21 - The Transmission Gallery"
1100:. Natural England. Archived from
1074:. Natural England. Archived from
2043:Nature Conservation Review sites
1289:
1072:"Suffolk Coasts and Heaths AONB"
765:
753:
741:
726:
710:
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666:of late December 1980. In 2013,
632:Orford Ness is now owned by the
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21:For the place in Australia, see
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1030:"Orfordness-Shingle Street SAC"
921:. Trinity House. Archived from
876:
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735:Orfordness transmitting station
664:Rendlesham Forest UFO sightings
607:Orfordness transmitting station
262:(GC), as a grade 1 site in the
2048:Tourist attractions in Suffolk
1050:
1036:
1022:
1008:
994:
980:
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911:
844:, another research station at
637:Quay on designated open days.
260:Geological Conservation Review
224:
1:
1453:"Orfordness – Shingle Street"
1141:. Cambridge University Press.
905:
842:Seaplane Experimental Station
302:and his team moved to nearby
777:
641:have also visited the site.
250:(SPA); the Alde-Ore Estuary
246:(SAC); the Alde-Ore Estuary
244:Special Area of Conservation
7:
1495:"Coastal vegetated shingle"
1153:"Suffolk River Valleys ESA"
962:"Coastal Vegetated Shingle"
802:
10:
2079:
988:"Orfordness-Havergate NNR"
269:
264:Nature Conservation Review
20:
1941:
1843:
1620:
1433:Annex 06: Orfordness in:
1137:Ratcliffe, D. A. (1977).
1058:"Alde-Ore Estuary Ramsar"
855:Martlesham Heath Airfield
760:Exterior of two 'pagodas'
683:University College London
524:R i v e r A l d e
318:clearly visible from the
234:the site is a designated
169:
164:
156:
138:
133:
125:
88:
57:
45:
35:
30:
1331:. Blackwell Publishing.
1216:"Orfordness Visitor Map"
1098:"Suffolk Heritage Coast"
860:
644:Rachel Woodward writes:
1438:. English Nature. 2003.
1271:. BBC. 21 December 2017
1002:"Alde-Ore Estuary SSSI"
919:"Orfordness Lighthouse"
536:R i v e r O r e
248:Special Protection Area
236:National Nature Reserve
23:Apudthama National Park
1375:The Construction Index
1044:"Alde-Ore Estuary SPA"
950:. BBC. 11 August 2020.
787:
772:Interior of a 'pagoda'
651:
599:over-the-horizon radar
279:
885:Toulmin Smith, Joshua
785:
646:
277:
219:Orfordness Lighthouse
2033:Landforms of Suffolk
2004:52.08139°N 1.55861°E
1567:by Charlie Underwood
1501:on 30 September 2007
1353:"Notice to mariners"
1329:Military Geographies
1314:"Exploration Report"
209:, and was formed by
110:52.08139°N 1.55861°E
2000: /
1377:. 11 September 2023
1104:on 8 September 2008
733:Aerial view of the
284:Ministry of Defence
143:Ministry of Defence
106: /
2063:Beaches of Suffolk
1196:. Historic England
1004:. Natural England.
990:. Natural England.
925:on 31 October 2007
808:Wartime events at
788:
721:and the lighthouse
306:and developed the
300:Robert Watson-Watt
280:
2009:52.08139; 1.55861
1983:
1982:
1755:Lynmouth Foreland
623:BBC World Service
611:medium-wave radio
451:Orfordness Beacon
292:Orfordness Beacon
177:
176:
173:1913 – early 1983
115:52.08139; 1.55861
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609:. This powerful
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184:cuspate foreland
134:Site information
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1415:on 20 May 2006
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1220:National Trust
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1174:. Visit Orford
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1965:Europa Point
1918:South Bishop
1825:Trevose Head
1795:St Anthony's
1790:Round Island
1564:
1521:
1515:
1503:. Retrieved
1499:the original
1489:
1470:
1464:
1429:
1417:. Retrieved
1410:the original
1381:11 September
1379:. Retrieved
1374:
1365:
1357:the original
1347:
1328:
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1308:
1296:. Retrieved
1285:
1273:. Retrieved
1268:
1259:
1247:. Retrieved
1241:Mike Brown.
1236:
1224:. Retrieved
1219:
1210:
1198:. Retrieved
1188:
1176:. Retrieved
1165:
1157:the original
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1106:. Retrieved
1102:the original
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1076:the original
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966:the original
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470:transmitting
312:
281:
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187:shingle spit
179:
178:
165:Site history
18:
2028:Orford Ness
2007: /
1923:South Stack
1898:St Tudwal's
1888:Point Lynas
1815:Start Point
1750:Lundy South
1745:Lundy North
1720:Hurst Point
1690:Flamborough
1650:Bishop Rock
1640:Beachy Head
1630:Anvil Point
1610:Lighthouses
1275:21 December
617:, then the
428:Orford Ness
252:Ramsar Site
225:Description
180:Orford Ness
170:In use
113: /
89:Coordinates
77:Orford Ness
31:Orford Ness
2022:Categories
1995:01°33′31″E
1992:52°04′53″N
1970:Les Hanois
1883:Nash Point
1710:Heugh Hill
1670:Crow Point
1655:Bull Point
1645:Berry Head
1505:23 October
1419:23 October
929:11 October
906:References
846:Felixstowe
603:Cobra Mist
555:Lighthouse
512:Cobra Mist
308:Chain Home
207:River Alde
101:01°33′31″E
98:52°04′53″N
1947:Gibraltar
1873:Monkstone
1835:Wolf Rock
1810:Southwold
1760:Nab Tower
1740:Lowestoft
1735:Longstone
1730:Longships
1680:Eddystone
1675:Dungeness
1565:My Orford
778:Geography
601:known as
491:Havergate
423:'Pagodas'
195:Aldeburgh
1960:Casquets
1955:Alderney
1933:Trwyn Du
1908:Skokholm
1903:Skerries
1868:Holyhead
1863:Flatholm
1820:Tater Du
1780:Peninnis
1635:Bamburgh
1298:21 April
1269:BBC News
1249:21 April
1226:19 March
1200:21 April
1178:21 April
887:(1839).
803:See also
352:1.2miles
288:Cold War
160:Inactive
139:Operator
1878:Mumbles
1853:Bardsey
1800:St Bees
1775:Pendeen
1765:Needles
1695:Godrevy
1622:England
838:Reserve
472:station
432:Reserve
270:History
215:Dunwich
191:Suffolk
189:on the
1945:&
1913:Smalls
1830:Whitby
1725:Lizard
1665:Cromer
1660:Coquet
1528:
1477:
1335:
1290:road.
1222:. 2018
1108:2 June
1082:2 June
972:2 June
574:Castle
199:Orford
157:Status
1845:Wales
1685:Farne
1456:(PDF)
1413:(PDF)
1406:(PDF)
861:Notes
404:Jetty
182:is a
37:Near
1975:Sark
1526:ISBN
1507:2006
1475:ISBN
1421:2006
1383:2023
1333:ISBN
1300:2018
1277:2017
1251:2018
1228:2023
1202:2018
1180:2018
1110:2008
1084:2008
974:2008
931:2007
836:RSPB
717:The
681:and
656:Nazi
320:quay
313:The
126:Type
1612:of
895:186
685:'s
675:Bam
619:BBC
350:2km
2024::
1444:^
1391:^
1373:.
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939:^
834:–
149:,
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1602:e
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392:A
387:E
382:S
377:H
372:T
367:R
362:O
357:N
25:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.