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227:, &c. every succeeding candidate for public favour, in this province, must appear to disadvantage; nor have I the presumption to imagine, that I can produce any thing which can vie, in point of excellence, with the choice dishes of those able caterers. But as the situation and habits of the new world differ considerably from those of the old, if I should be so fortunate as to hit the taste of my customers, I shall have no mean opinion of my cookery. ...
158:(corner of Congress St.) in "the house lately occupied by Mr. Thomas Clements." The building had been erected in 1670-1671 by Henry Bridgham. Julien's was "agreeably situated to receive the fresh air -- which is so necessary for the convalescent and strangers." The establishment was referred to as "Julien's," the "Boston Restorator," "Mr. Julien's French Restorator," "Julien's Restorator," or "The Restorator."
193:-- but for the benefit of those invalids who stood in need of light substance, nourishing and strengthening to their stomacks, it was recommended for the purpose by the Academy in Paris. Citizens of the above description are invited to call and try the virtue of Julien's turtle soup." Julien stressed the healthiness of other items available to his patrons, such as "Naples cordials, syrup of vinegar,
242:. His wife Hannah Julien continued at the Restorator through at least 1813. Around 1816 it was "continued under the management of a countryman of Mr. Julien," Frederick Rouillard, until 1823. The building was demolished in 1824, and in 1825 Edward H. Robbins built on the old site of the Restorator a multi-functional assembly space,
189:, the great naturalist, who discovered the beneficial nature of amphibious animals. Those who use this soup must not expect that it be made strong with spice, but from ingredients clear and light." "Many celebrated physicians have recommended it. ... As the first establishment of a restorator in Paris was not for
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The
Restorator opened in July 1793: "a resort where the infirm in health, the convalescent, and those whose attention to studious business occasions a lassitude of nature; can obtain the most suitable nourishment. ... Spirits are not to be used; ... and all gaming is disallowed. ... Excellent wines
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In imitation of Mr. Julien, I mean to open a house of public entertainment, where every intellectual epicure may be gratified with his favourite dish. The moralist shall be feasted with ethics, the philologist with criticism, and the weak and delicate palates of beaus and ladies shall be indulged
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and cordials, good soups and broths, pastry in all its delicious variety, alamode beef, bacon, poultry, and generally, all other refreshing viands, will be kept in due preparation: and a bill of fare will be kept ... from which each visitor may command whatever may best suit his appetite."
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Julien moved to the United States "as cook to the celebrated
Dubuque, who was a refugee from the French Revolution." Prior to 1793, Julien had served as "steward to the Hon. M. LeTombe, consul of the French Republic." Other friends and associates included
162:
110:, established by French-born Jean Baptiste Gilbert Payplat dis Julien. It was one of the first restaurants in Boston; previous public eating-rooms were in "taverns or boarding houses."
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Robert Blair St. George . Afterthoughts on "Material Life in
America, 1600-1860": Household Space in Boston, 1670-1730. Winterthur Portfolio, Vol. 32, No. 1 (Spring, 1997); p.36
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Larry
Stettner, Bill Morrison. Cooking for the Common Good: The Birth of a Natural Foods Soup Kitchen. Berkeley, Calif.: North Atlantic Books, 2010; p.12
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Gravestone
Inscriptions and Records of Tomb Burials in the Central Burying Ground, Boston Common: And Inscriptions in the South Burying Ground. Boston
181:." Julien's advertisements for the soup emphasized medical justifications: "Turtle soup. Much has been said on its efficacy in purifying the blood by
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dinner of the "officers of the first regiment" in 1798; and anniversary celebrations of the Boston
Franklin Typographical Association, 1803–1805.
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The particulars of Julien's style of business and its inspiration to competitors resonated culturally, for example in a literary spoof in the
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197:, and white Bourdeaux wine, all of which are calculated for strengthening and invigorating the system of nature during the heat of summer."
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Abbott Lowell
Cummings. The Domestic Architecture of Boston, 1660-1725. Archives of American Art Journal, Vol. 9, No. 4 (1971)
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According to food historians Julien's "public eating house ... was famous for his soups and stews, and he was nicknamed the '
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in
Roxbury." cf. Samuel Adams Drake. Old landmarks and historic personages of Boston. Boston: J. R. Osgood, 1873
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Andrew F. Smith, ed. The Oxford companion to
American food and drink. Oxford University Press US, 2007; p.550
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Samuel Adams Drake. Old Boston taverns and tavern clubs, illus. ed. Boston: W. A. Butterfield, 1917.
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Arthur W. Brayley. "An originator of soups." Boston
Cooking School Magazine. v.10, no.9, April 1906.
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soup, a composition of vegetables in long, narrow strips. Julien specialized in making
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with remarks on dress and fashion. After the sumptuous repasts afforded by the
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Boston Restorator: Turtle Soup. Boston Price-Current; Date: 06-29-1797
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Franklin Association. Republican Gazetteer (Boston); Date: 01-26-1803
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Advertisement for turtle soup, Julien's Restorator, Boston, 1797
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The National Jubilee. Columbian Centinel; Date: 07-07-1798
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Boston Restorator. American Apollo (Boston), Aug. 21, 1794
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Detail of 1806 map of Boston, showing vicinity of Milk St.
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Boston Restorator. Columbian Centinel; Date: 05-04-1796
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in his celebrated dissertation on the subject, and by
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Events that took place at the Restorator included a
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Restorator. American Apollo (Boston), July 19, 1793
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