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coiling up loose or wet overhangs, I had the conviction that human adhesiveness in movement could go no further". He was happier climbing overhangs and loose rock than his contemporaries and predecessors, meaning he could pioneer climbs in new areas. He made more than a hundred first ascents, most of
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in particular created a new dimension in the repertoire of the sport, tackling steepness, looseness and difficulty that had previously been dismissed as beyond the pale. His exploits on water were similarly fearless, and included swimming down the
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in midwinter. He is regarded by many as "the finest of all writers about the sport ", and his witty, stylish essays were acutely insightful about motivation and character. He was also an innovative writer of guidebooks to climbing venues such as
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Edwards described that he "grew up exuberant in body but with a nervy, craving mind. It was wanting something more, something tangible. It sought for reality intensely, always as if it were not there ... But you see at once what I do. I climb."
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to be near his family home and assist with the care of his ailing father, and went on to qualify as a psychiatrist, afterwards setting up in private practise on
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1: "Menlove: The Life and
Writings of John Menlove Edwards, by Jim Perrin. First edition Gollancz 1985, second edition The Ernest Press 1993
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in 1937. He became vulnerable to periods of mental instability in the early 1940s, and increasingly to
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during the Second World War. He was sectioned to mental hospitals several times, and given
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As with many other
British climbers of his era he was passionately against the use of
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Edwards was homosexual and was for many years involved in a relationship with climber
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on 2 February 1958 at a house belonging to his brother-in-law, Hewlett
Johnson.
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and including many of the now-classic rock routes on the crags of the
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297:"Paying homage to an openly gay talented rock climber of the 1930's"
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112:'s Central Buttress. The climbs he pioneered on the cliffs of
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Crag in
Cheshire and at age 21 made the first free ascent of
88:. His later life is a story of decline and he committed
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364:Unjustifiable Risk, The Story of British Climbing
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445:20th-century English male writers
430:People educated at Fettes College
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425:20th-century English poets
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270:"The Alpine Journal 1986"
57:to focus on his writing.
45:, trained as a doctor at
362:Thompson, Simon (2010).
244:"Hewlett Johnson Papers"
212:"Hewlett Johnson Papers"
51:Rodney Street, Liverpool
143:Geoffrey Winthrop Young
104:He learned to climb at
41:John Menlove attended
485:People from Southport
420:English gay sportsmen
400:British rock climbers
158:in Snowdonia such as
250:. University of Kent
82:North Wales Hospital
47:Liverpool University
36:Canterbury Cathedral
20:John Menlove Edwards
16:British rock climber
415:English gay writers
440:English male poets
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303:. 28 December 2018
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66:Scafell Crag
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22:was born at
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119:Linn of Dee
114:North Wales
394:Categories
193:References
92:by taking
55:Beddgelert
34:, Dean of
450:Gay poets
152:Snowdonia
76:and deep
28:Liverpool
150:them in
147:anaconda
100:Climbing
24:Ainsdale
254:2 March
225:2 March
132:Lliwedd
123:Braemar
121:, near
110:Scafell
94:cyanide
90:suicide
86:Denbigh
78:insulin
26:, near
183:pitons
136:Tryfan
106:Helsby
273:(PDF)
176:Brant
127:Minch
342:2024
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