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road was not accessible, and all access to the island was across the sands, using the
Broomway to Fisherman's Head, which was only possible at low tide. On Wednesday 4 February, a number of DUKWs and four-wheel-drive lorries reached the island with food and water for the stranded animals, which were rounded up and assembled at the churchyard, where the land is slightly higher. The following day, they were moved to Newhouse Farm, near Fisherman's Head, ready for the arrival of 24 cattle lorries, which drove across the sands early on Friday morning. Most of the animals had been rescued by Saturday night, with the final sixteen dairy cows leaving by barge on Sunday morning. 400 cattle, 14 calves, 28 horses, 72 sheep, 6 lambs, 3 pigs, 670 chickens, 100 ducks, 2 dogs, 10 rabbits, 4 budgerigars and the 16 dairy cows were rescued. Around 700 sheep and 249 pigs were drowned.
627:. There was initially no source of fresh water on the island apart from any rainwater that could be collected. In 1725, it was thought that there might be water below the island, and a well was constructed on Great Shelford Marsh. It reached a depth of 92 feet (28 m), but no water was found. At the end of the 1700s, Francis Bannester, who owned Rushley Island nearby, attempted to find water by boring, but again failed to do so. However, his son, also called Francis, persisted and found fresh water some 500 feet (150 m) below Rushley in 1828. Just six years later, there were more than 20 such springs scattered through the six islands of which Foulness is one, and fourteen farms on the island had their own wells by 1889.
837:, were moored near Foulness Point, and were used as accommodation by the workers. The number of personnel had increased to 400 soldiers and 100 sailors by 11 February. High tide on 14 February was 1.5 feet (0.46 m) higher than expected, and washed away a section of the repaired wall at Shelford Creek, but repairs were again made, and the walls survived the spring tides of the following two days. Re-occupation of the island was delayed until 19 March, to ensure that the new walls would withstand the spring tides due on 14 and 15 March, but many people commuted to their homes each day to begin the task of cleaning up the mess. Of the 114 families who had been evacuated, 80 returned on 19 March.
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island, as the sea walls had been raised and strengthened between 1951 and 1952 by the War Office, and were 16.5 feet (5.0 m) above mean sea level. However, the high water was accompanied by strong winds, creating large waves, which broke over the top of the defences, washing away the earth banks on the inland side of the walls. Two sections of the wall breached, from
Rugwood Head to Asplin's Head on the eastern side of the island, and for about 1 mile (1.6 km) to the west of Foulness Point on the northern side of the island. By 6:00 am, most of it was under water, and gas, electricity and telephone links had been severed. Rescue attempts on the Sunday failed to reach Foulness.
536:(Essex), which reported in 1894, shows that no land on the island reverted to pasture up to 1880, despite some 25% reverting in the neighbouring Rochford hundred. Great Burwood Farm had 47 acres (19 ha) of its 389 acres (157 ha) in use as pasture in 1858, which had dropped to just 12 acres (4.9 ha) in 1899. Land prices in the same period dropped dramatically, as the farm was bought for £11,165 in 1858 and sold for only £1,800 in 1899, losing 84% of its value. By the 1970s, the smaller farms had amalgamated into five large farming businesses.
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harbour suitable for the container ships then starting to revolutionise maritime transport, a high-speed rail link together with the M12 and M13 motorways to London, and a new town for the accommodation of the thousands of workers who would be required. The new town was to cover 82 square miles, with a population of 600,000 people. The cost was to be a then-astronomical £825 million (£12.6 billion in 2024), which many regarded as unacceptable. The Maplin project was abandoned in July 1974 when Labour came to power in the shadow of the
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outside the sea wall. The 5,885 acres (2,382 ha) inside the wall comprised 4,554 acres (1,843 ha) of arable land, with pasture covering another 783 acres (317 ha). 338 acres (137 ha) were described as inland water, which was made up of ponds and drainage ditches, while buildings, roads, the sea walls, and some waste ground made up the remaining 222 acres (90 ha). The arable land was used to grow cereal crops, namely wheat, oats and barley, and beans, white mustard and clover.
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divided into 11 or 12 marshes, each with its own wall, rather than one wall around the whole area, and was extended in 1420 by a new wall around New Wick Marsh, and again between 1424 and 1486, when
Arundel Marsh was enclosed. Ditches ran between the walls of the marshes, with sluices at the ends where the ditches met the sea. At high water, the island would effectively be divided into a number of smaller islands. A
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responsibilities seriously, and set about improving the island by building brick houses for his tenants. Five years later, 630 people lived in 78 houses, and by 1851, 109 dwellings housed 640 people, with average occupancy down to 5.9 people. Population peaked at 754 in the census of 1871, but has steadily declined since.
879:(SSSI). Habitat is provided by extensive mud flats and sand flats, which are covered twice a day by the tides, together with salt marshes, banks of shingle and shells, grazing marshes, rough grass and scrubland. They are recognised as being internationally important for six species of birds. Thousands of dark-bellied
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amphibious truck reached the stranded people and evacuated them to the reception centres. 30 men refused to leave, because of the plight of their livestock, but 24 of them were compulsorily evacuated the following day. Two people died in the disaster. Rescue of the animals was difficult, because the
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sought to extend this at the end of the 19th century, by buying the island and its offshore sands, to act as a research and development centre for new weapons. They bought some of the sands above
Fisherman's Head in 1900, but the rest belonged to Alan Finch, the Lord of the Manor, and he refused to
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and memorabilia as well as documents and photographs. In 2003 it was a runner up in the annual MOD award for the best conservation projects across the entire defence estate, the
Sanctuary Award. It closed to visitors during the winter of 2005/6 for a reorganisation of its displays to include newly
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precipitated a crisis in the City of London, which made it difficult to raise the finance. A report by the Board for 1867-8 stated that no progress had been made for some time, and all reference to the scheme had ceased by 1871. The board kept the £25,000, the only money that the London ratepayers
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Attempts to buy the lordship were also refused by Finch, but he died in 1914, and his half-brother
Wilfred Henry Montgomery Finch sold it on 13 July 1915, resulting in the War Office owning around two-thirds of the island. They had also been buying any farms that were not part of the manor, and by
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also records an exceptional tide on 11 November 1099 which flooded the land, but these were rare occurrences. The first defences were probably erected in the late 12th century. By 1210, the "law of the marsh" was in effect: it required that the cost of such defences should be paid for by those who
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was expected to be 8.7 feet (2.7 m) above mean sea level at 1:30 am on Sunday 1 February. The actual tide rose to 15.7 feet (4.8 m) above mean sea level, which was 3.5 feet (1.1 m) above the danger level for this part of the Essex coast. This level in itself was not a danger to the
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provided the main access to
Foulness for centuries. It is an ancient track, which starts at Wakering Stairs, and runs for 6 miles (9.7 km) along the Maplin Sands, some 440 yards (400 m) from the present shoreline. The seaward side of the track was defined by bunches of twigs and sticks,
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The estimated cost of the scheme was £2.1 million, with pumping costs of between £10,000 and £13,000 per year. The
Metropolitan Sewage and Essex Reclamation Company was set up, and deposited £25,000 with the Board, to be refunded on completion. Construction work began in late 1865, and the Board
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was appointed in 1695, whose jurisdiction included
Foulness, but the inhabitants were not happy, and engaged the lawyer Sir John Brodrick to put their case. They argued that an exceptional high tide had flooded the island in 1690, but that they had repaired and improved the walls themselves, and
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in
October 1973. In 1973 a Special Development Order was made under the Town and Country Planning Act granting planning permission for the project, and the Maplin Development Authority was constituted and began its work. The project would have included not just a major airport, but a deep-water
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which forms the soil is highly fertile once freshwater plants start to grow. The inning of New Wick Marsh added 220 acres (89 ha), and Arundel March covered 385 acres (156 ha). No new innings took place in the 1500s, as there were several exceptional tides, and activity was centred on
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The earliest record of sea walls is from 1271, and in 1348 there were problems with one of the marshes, which was flooding every day, indicating that it was below the level of normal tides. The sea walls were made of earth, and were thatched with hurdles of brushwood and rushes. The island was
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of 1836, these were replaced by payments of money. The commutation commission, who were responsible for setting the level of payments, produced a details schedule and map in 1847, which provides a detailed land usage survey. At the time, the island included 425 acres (172 ha) of saltings,
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The size of the island has been increased several times by "innings". Saltings build up along the shore from silt which is carried to the sea by the rivers, and is deposited on the shore by the tide. Salt-loving plants then take root in the mud, and the salting is established. The plants trap
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or fire-brooms, which are buried in the sands. Six headways run from the track to the shore, giving access to local farms. The track was extremely dangerous in misty weather, as the incoming tide floods across the sands at high speed, and the water forms whirlpools because of flows from the
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Evidence for housing comes from the census returns. In 1801, 396 people lived in 43 houses, which gives an average occupancy of 9.2 people. This had increased to 9.8 in 1811, when 450 people occupied 46 houses. Ownership of the manor was inherited by George Finch in 1826, who took his
748:, which would become prime agricultural land. Among several schemes, it was the only one which came with detailed plans, and was accepted by the Board, despite opposition from the City of London, who argued that the soil on Maplin Sands was unsuitable for irrigation with sewage.
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691:. After its opening, the Broomway ceased to be used, except by the military. With the passing of the Ministry of Defence Act 1946 and the subsequent rationalisation of five agencies in 1971, ownership of the island passed from the War Office to the
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maintaining the existing defences, but another 170 acres (69 ha) was added between 1620 and 1662, and there was further activity between 1687 and 1688, in 1801, and finally in 1833. In total, 1,632 acres (660 ha) were added to the island.
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The island was also served by ferries, which carried fresh water as well as people. The carriage of water is mentioned in the accounts kept by the bailiffs in 1420, 1424 and 1486. By the middle of the 19th century, ferries ran to
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benefited from them, in proportion to the amount of land owned or rented, and this remained the case until the Land Drainage Act 1930. In 1335, 1338 and 1346, commissioners were sent to inspect the state of the banks in the
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In the 1850s, the South Essex Estuary and Reclamation Company proposed a grand scheme to reclaim around 47.5 square miles (123 km) of land on the Essex coast, which would have included most of Foulness Sands and
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was obtained in 1852. This authorised the construction of a 20-mile (32 km) wall, running from Wakering Stairs to beyond Foulness Point. A small amount of work was carried out on another part of the scheme near
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Cheap imports of wheat from America caused widespread depression among agricultural communities in the 1870s, with much arable land reverting to rough pasture. However, a map attached to the report of the
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sediments, and the surface rises until it remains above the level of most tides. Inning occurs when a sea wall is built around the edge of the salting, after which rain washes the salt downwards. The
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in January 1862, in response to requests from the Metropolitan Board for imaginative ways to generate a profit from the large quantities of sewage which had been conveyed away from London by
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942:. During the winter months, in excess of 100,000 waterfowl have been reported. The avocet population is the second largest in the United Kingdom. The Foulness SSSI has been designated as a
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736:'s sewer system. Hope had experience of reclamation and irrigation works in Spain and Majorca. Their scheme envisaged a 44-mile (71 km) culvert from the northern outfall to
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In order to repair the walls before the next spring tides, which were due on 16 February 300 soldiers and 70 sailors were drafted in. Three Royal Navy minesweepers, the
552:. There is no evidence for sea defences in the period of Roman occupation, although the area was flooded in AD 31 by an exceptional tide, which forced a withdrawal to
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but the UK government rejected the commission's proposal and accepted a dissenting report recommending that a new airport should be developed at Foulness. The
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grant shooting rights over them. In 1912, the War Office also discovered that large areas of the sands were leased to tenants, who used them for fishing with
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From 1855, the Shoebury Sands, which are a continuation of the Maplin Sands to the south of the island, had been used as an artillery testing site, and the
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The island covers 9.195 square miles (23.81 km) bounded by its sea walls. Before 1847, tithes were payable in kind, but under the terms of the General
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611:. Under such conditions, the direction of the shore cannot be determined, and the parish registers record the burials of many people who were drowned.
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towards the beginning of the war, and the parish poor-house and a wooden lock-up which was located near the church were also demolished.
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the only buildings which they did not own were the church and rectory, the school, and a mission hall at Courts End. They demolished the
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Plans were formulated by the army, the Southend lifeboat service and various civilian services for a rescue attempt on the Monday.
659:. A kiddle was a large V-shaped or square wicker trap, which formed an enclosure in which fish were trapped as the tide receded.
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therefore should not be taxed by the Commissioners. Eventually, Foulness had its own Commission, from 1800 to the early 1900s.
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768:. Four sites were considered, including construction of an off-shore airport on Maplin Sands. The Commission chose a site at
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430:, at the north end of the island. The population reduced to 151 at the 2011 Census. The island had until recently a
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donated items. It is open to visitors on the afternoon of the first Sunday of each month from April to October.
483:, a tidal path said to predate the Romans, or by boat. Public rights of way exist, but the island is now run by
422:. In the 2001 census, the usually resident population of the civil parish was 212, living in the settlements of
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744:, and a southern one to Maplin Sands. Some 20,000 acres (81 km) would be reclaimed on both sides of the
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were prepared as reception centres, and a flotilla of small boats, the lifeboat, a barge and an army
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The Bumper Book For The Loo: Facts and figures, stats and stories – an unputdownable treat of trivia
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Foulness Island is predominantly farmland and is protected from the sea by a sea wall. The island's
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at Churchend. The conversion was made possible following an ‘Awards for All’ grant, funding from
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695:. In 2003, a contract to manage the testing of munitions was awarded to the defence contractors
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1555:"The Foulness Heritage Centre | Foulness | ... by Places | Rochford District Community Archive"
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ever received for their sewage, despite claims at the time that it was worth over £4 million.
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called Foulness and Great Wakering. The population of this ward at the 2011 census was 5,738.
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One benefit of the takeover was the construction of the military road in 1922, which crosses
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with access to the island by non-residents subject to stringent times and restrictions.
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arrive from Russia to spend the winter on the flats, which are also frequented by
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can be seen foraging, and a wide range of plants and invertebrates thrive there.
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remained confident that the scheme would be completed, but the collapse of the
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970:’. It opened to the public in February 2003. It is run by volunteers from the
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Before 1922, when the military road was built, the only access was across the
30:"Foulness" redirects here. For the river in the East Riding of Yorkshire, see
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for Birds under the EC Birds Directive, and is also a Ramsar site under the
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reported plans for the church to be converted into a five-bedroom home.
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1089:"MOD Shoeburyness - Public Access - A guide for recreational visitors"
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1503:"Foulness Churchend Conservation Area Appraisal and Management Plan"
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438:. The George and Dragon pub in Churchend closed in 2007, while the
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The island's heritage centre was established in 2002 in the old
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1366:"Maplin: the Treasury and London's third airport in the 1970s"
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472:, almost the entire island was flooded and two people died.
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1444:"Shoeburyness Conservation Group celebrates 100th meeting"
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Other birds which use the island for breeding include
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village hall and the Royal Corinthian Yacht Club at
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687:by a series of bridges, to reach the mainland near
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1476:. Essex County Council. p. 10. Archived from
857:The island's name is derived from the Old English
728:Another scheme was proposed by William Napier and
915:, the site is of national importance. In winter,
740:, where a northern branch would convey sewage to
418:, which is separated from the mainland by narrow
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1010:. Office for National Statistics. Archived from
972:Foulness Conservation and Archaeological Society
699:, and they also control access to the island.
1714:Sites of Special Scientific Interest in Essex
1630:Foulness, A History of an Essex Island Parish
1553:Sites (www.communitysites.co.uk), Community.
801:and the east coast of England. High water at
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1680:. St Osyth Parish Council. Archived from
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1689:Google Earth view of Foulness and around
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1446:. QinetiQ. 26 April 2006. Archived from
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865:(modern "fowl") meaning "of birds" and
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1678:"Foulness - Where the bangs come from"
1632:. Essex County Council Record Office.
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1580:"QinetiQ - Foulness Heritage Centre"
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1268:"History of the Ministry of Defence"
1061:Symons, Mitchell (8 November 2012).
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877:Site of Special Scientific Interest
764:investigated potential sites for a
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1559:www.rochforddistricthistory.org.uk
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27:Human settlement in Essex, England
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442:closed in May 2010. In 2019, the
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1471:"Minerals Development Documents"
1364:Needham, Duncan (27 July 2016).
460:("bird headland"), referring to
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1676:Rosemary Roberts (March 2001).
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1505:. Rochford District Council.
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1724:Coastal environment of Essex
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1662:travel guide from Wikivoyage
871:being the Germanic word for
760:Around 100 years later, the
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637:warning sign, taken in 1988.
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440:church of St Mary the Virgin
410:island on the east coast of
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1067:. Transworld. p. 271.
716:produced the plans, and an
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43:Human settlement in England
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1609:Halliday, Stephen (1999).
1529:"Foulness Heritage Centre"
1094:. Quinetic. Archived from
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1611:The Great Stink of London
1041:Sites Information Service
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1004:"Parish population 2011"
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954:Foulness Heritage Centre
853:, as they appear in 2013
598:shaped like upside-down
503:Foulness is part of the
1734:Civil parishes in Essex
1709:Ramsar sites in England
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793:Most of the island was
470:North Sea flood of 1953
1121:"Ward population 2011"
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774:Maplin Development Act
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519:Map of Foulness Island
210:Postcode district
34:. For other uses, see
1684:on 29 September 2004.
1628:Smith, J. R. (1970).
1613:. The History Press.
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712:. The civil engineer
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559:Anglo-Saxon Chronicle
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1370:History & Policy
966:and a donation the ‘
766:third London airport
573:Commission of Sewers
188:Sovereign state
754:Overend Gurney bank
693:Ministry of Defence
489:Ministry of Defence
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762:Roskill Commission
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354:51.5976°N 0.8954°E
296:Reference no.
222:Dialling code
1729:Rochford District
1620:978-0-7509-2580-8
1309:on 22 August 2010
1303:"Foulness Island"
1074:978-1-4481-5271-1
978:with displays of
948:Ramsar Convention
885:bar-tailed godwit
815:Burnham-on-Crouch
734:Joseph Bazalgette
718:Act of Parliament
663:Military Takeover
617:Burnham-on-Crouch
487:on behalf of the
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1660:Foulness Island
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795:flooded in 1953
791:
783:1973 oil crisis
723:Bradwell-on-Sea
714:Sir John Rennie
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668:the end of the
665:
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359:51.5976; 0.8954
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1682:the original
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1602:Bibliography
1587:. Retrieved
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1562:. Retrieved
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1536:. Retrieved
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1478:the original
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1452:. Retrieved
1448:the original
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1016:. Retrieved
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1007:
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917:hen harriers
866:
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841:Conservation
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759:
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746:River Crouch
742:Dengie Flats
730:William Hope
727:
710:Maplin Sands
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646:Military Use
640:
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605:River Crouch
600:besom brooms
592:
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550:last Ice Age
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540:Sea defences
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477:Maplin Sands
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104:Civil parish
40:
1513:13 December
1487:13 December
1454:13 December
1433:, p. 8
1313:15 December
1284:15 December
932:little tern
928:common tern
889:grey plover
881:brent geese
799:Netherlands
609:River Roach
589:Development
458:fugla næsse
455:Old English
436:post office
357: /
96:2011 census
1698:Categories
1589:19 January
1564:18 January
1538:18 January
1431:Smith 1970
1419:Smith 1970
1407:Smith 1970
1395:Smith 1970
1380:27 October
1328:Smith 1970
1255:Smith 1970
1243:Smith 1970
1231:Smith 1970
1219:Smith 1970
1207:Smith 1970
1195:Smith 1970
1180:Smith 1970
1168:Smith 1970
1156:Smith 1970
1144:Smith 1970
1034:"Foulness"
987:References
873:promontory
859:fugla-næss
831:Cockatrice
789:1953 flood
770:Cublington
652:War Office
499:Governance
342:51°35′51″N
288:Designated
94:151 (
91:Population
776:received
703:Proposals
674:post mill
525:Tithe Act
511:Geography
428:Courtsend
424:Churchend
345:0°53′43″E
260:Ambulance
198:Post town
1507:Archived
1374:Archived
1275:Archived
1046:25 April
913:shelduck
901:redshank
893:red knot
827:Cheerful
803:Southend
595:Broomway
582:alluvium
481:Broomway
479:via the
462:wildfowl
128:Rochford
120:District
111:Foulness
18:Foulness
1668:at the
1273:. MOD.
964:QinetiQ
861:, with
835:Rinaldo
738:Rawreth
697:QinetiQ
657:kiddles
485:QinetiQ
451:unusual
416:England
406:) is a
326:England
180:England
174:Country
1636:
1617:
1105:15 May
1071:
1039:Ramsar
976:museum
924:avocet
909:dunlin
905:curlew
903:. For
556:. The
420:creeks
408:closed
236:Police
156:Region
1481:(PDF)
1474:(PDF)
1278:(PDF)
1271:(PDF)
1099:(PDF)
1092:(PDF)
868:naess
863:fugla
412:Essex
331:Essex
253:Essex
241:Essex
226:01702
146:Essex
81:Essex
1634:ISBN
1615:ISBN
1591:2022
1566:2022
1540:2022
1515:2010
1489:2010
1456:2010
1382:2014
1315:2010
1286:2010
1128:2015
1107:2019
1069:ISBN
1048:2018
1020:2015
938:and
911:and
899:and
833:and
819:DUKW
683:and
623:and
607:and
593:The
434:and
426:and
248:Fire
164:East
491:as
414:in
299:861
215:SS3
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374:(
98:)
38:.
20:)
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