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feeling still is as strong as I think, as I know it to be, go there. If you love mountains for their own sakes; if you like to stand face to face with Nature where she mixes sublimity of grandeur and delicacy of beauty in perfect harmony; if these sights fill and satisfy you of themselves – go there! If you prefer the grandeur, with some of the rough edges knocked off (and carried away in tourists' pockets); if you choose rather to play at travelling and roughing it, you will stay at home in the Alps. You will have missed much, and your mountains education will have been imperfect. If you think your temper is perfectly equable – go there; you will be undeceived, and your family circle may benefit therefrom. If you wish to be far from the madding crowd, far from the noise, bustle, and vulgarity of the buzzing, clustering swarms of tourists – go there. Nature will, as it were, take you gently by the hand and seem to say, 'I am glad to welcome you; come, and you shall look upon sights that I don't choose to show to everybody. Yet more, I will make a present of them to you; and in after times you shall call up in memory recollections of me, as I can be when in the mood, and you shall hug these memories with delight and even dream on them with enthusiasm.' If you wish for this – go there. To the end of your days you will remember it with pleasure. Go there!
150:
out as we did, it would be possible to ascend and return to
Chamonix in about 16 to 18 hrs. But the mountain is never safe when snow is on the rocks, and at such times stones fall freely down the couloir leading up from the head of the glacier. The best time for the expedition would be, in ordinary seasons, in the month of August. The rocks are sound and are peculiarly unlike those of other mountains. From the moment the glacier is left, hard climbing begins, and the hands as well as the feet are continuously employed. The difficulties are therefore enormously increased if the rocks be glazed or cold; and in bad weather the crags of the Dru would be as pretty a place for an accident as can well be imagined.
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lacked the other's fiery touch, nor did he yield to the call of the mountains with
Mummery's zest. Dent's expeditions had an almost austerely classic perfection ... While Mummery's alpine career hardly met with any ill will from the mountains until the very end, Dent had to wage a long and protracted
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Those who follow us, and I think there will be many, will perhaps be glad of a few hints about this peak. Taken together, it affords the most continuously interesting rock climb with which I am acquainted. There is no wearisome tramp over moraine, no great extent of snow fields to traverse. Sleeping
140:
that had been ignored by the early generation of alpinists whose ambitions had been focused more on the higher mountains. After eighteen failed attempts with a number of different guides and companions (during which he used ladders to overcome difficulties), Dent at last made the first ascent of the
178:
To those that have the health, strength, experience and energy, I can but say – THERE, in that strange country, those giant peaks wait for you – silent, majestic, unvisited. Would you revive in all their freshness the pleasures which the founders of our Club discovered thirty years ago? If the old
195:, 'He has often been quoted as saying that the Alps were exhausted as far back as the 1880s, and he once wrote me a friendly warning not to attempt new Alpine ways, "since there is really nothing left worth risking much for"'. He also took part in the establishment of the
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Dent wrote: 'We used our ladders repeatedly and frequently, but only to shorten our way up, while exploring the mountain. When we actually climbed it, we used one ladder in one place.' Clinton Thomas Dent, 'The
History of an Ascent of the Aiguille du Dru',
105:
in 1871. On 5 September 1872 the combined parties of Dent and guide
Alexander Burgener, with George Augustus Passingham, and his guides Ferdinand Imseng and Franz Andermatten, made the first ascent of the south-east ridge of the
392:
100:
and a porter, Franz
Burgener (of whom Dent wrote 'his conversational powers were limited by an odd practice of carrying heavy parcels in his mouth'), and the Portjengrat (Pizzo d'Andollo, 3,654 m) above the valley of
234:
awarded him the honorary degree of MCh. He wrote extensively, and his publications include studies of post-surgical insanity and heart surgery, and an account of the wounded in the
305:, London: Longmans, Green, 1892. 2nd edition (pp. xx + 439, with 2 pages of advertisements, 13 plates and illustrations in text by H. G. Willink and others, with contributions by
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145:(the higher of the mountain's two summits) on 12 September 1878, with James Walker Hartley and the guides Alexander Burgener and Kaspar Maurer. He wrote of the Dru:
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67:, Dent was one of the most prominent of the British climbers who attempted the few remaining unclimbed mountains in the
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206:, Dent gave his recreations as "mountaineering and travel, or any form of hard exercise; art collecting; photography".
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331:, translated and edited, with annotations, by C. T. Dent and C. A. T. Billroth, New Sydenham Society, vol. 94
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166:, where he made the first ascent of Gestola (4,860 m) with W. F. Donkin in 1886. Writing in the
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Clinical
Surgery. Extracts from the reports of surgical practice between the years 1860–1876
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Dent died at the age of 61 after a 'mysterious attack of blood poisoning' and is buried at
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317:, C. Pilkington, F. Pollock). Republished by Kessinger Publishing, 2007,
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174:(of which he was President from 1886 to 1889) to travel to the region:
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35:(7 December 1850 – 26 August 1912) was an English surgeon, author and
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Above The Snow Line: Mountaineering
Sketches Between 1870 And 1880
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Dent may have been the first person to have written – in his book
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Dent, Clinton Thomas and
Christian Albert Theodor Billroth,
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The fourth surviving son of Thomas Dent, he was educated at
68:
446:, Vol. IX, reprinted as 'The First Ascent of the Dru', in
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a year later, Dent strongly encouraged the members of the
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238:, to which he had been posted as a correspondent for the
162:, Dent was involved in the pioneering of climbing in the
75:. As an alpinist, Dent was very different from Mummery:
505:, ed. Walt Unsworth, London: Allen Lane, 1981, p. 137
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On the Edge of Europe: Mountaineering in the
Caucasus
450:, ed. Walt Unsworth, London: Allen Lane, 1981, p. 62
741:
Fellows of the Royal
College of Surgeons of England
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online at Credo Reference (accessed 7 January 2008)
273:Dent, Clinton Thomas, 'The Ascent of Gestola', in
218:medical school, London, Consulting Surgeon at the
154:Together with British alpinists such as Mummery,
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419:
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277:, ed. Audrey Salkeld, Mountaineers Books, 1994,
607:Dumler, Helmut and Burkhardt, Willi P. (1994)
577:Travels amongst the Great Andes of the Equator
412:
517:"Hawks, doves and vivas; plus ça change...?"
214:Dent was a well-known Senior Surgeon at the
260:. There is a memorial tablet to him on the
80:war against his greatest conquest, the Dru.
706:Chief Surgeons of the Metropolitan Police
524:Royal College of Anaesthetists, Bulletin
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515:J G Jones and J S M Zorab (July 2003).
16:English surgeon, author and mountaineer
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645:Works by or about Clinton Thomas Dent
746:20th-century English medical doctors
721:19th-century English medical doctors
701:Alumni of Trinity College, Cambridge
468:'The First Ascent of the Dru', p. 61
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128:He then turned his attention to the
110:(4,221 m); this is the current
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736:Presidents of the Alpine Club (UK)
497:G. W. Young, 'Mountain Prophets',
381:. Vol. 59. 1907. p. 472.
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393:"Dent, Clinton Thomas (DNT868CT)"
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696:Burials at Kensal Green Cemetery
625:, London: George Allen and Unwin
731:People educated at Eton College
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477:The Alpine Journal 13, May 1887
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226:from 1904, and a Fellow of the
609:The High Mountains of the Alps
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291:, Kessinger Publishing, 2007,
220:Belgrave Hospital for Children
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655:"LIVES LOST IN THE CAUCASUS"
636:Works by Clinton Thomas Dent
432:Dumler and Burkhardt, p. 136
7:
423:Dumler and Burkhardt, p. 63
397:A Cambridge Alumni Database
191:was possible. According to
187:(1885) – that an ascent of
71:in the period known as the
58:
10:
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623:Mountaineering in the Alps
503:Peaks, Passes and Glaciers
448:Peaks, Passes and Glaciers
399:. University of Cambridge.
53:Trinity College, Cambridge
716:British mountain climbers
711:English mountain climbers
552:28 September 2013 at the
530:: 980–983. Archived from
501:, Vol. LIV, reprinted in
228:Royal College of Surgeons
593:: 348–371. October 1892.
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132:(3,754 m), a steep
88:in the Alps include the
241:British Medical Journal
232:University of Cambridge
222:, Chief Surgeon to the
193:Geoffrey Winthrop Young
579:by Edward Whymper and
375:"Dent, Clinton Thomas"
301:Dent, Clinton Thomas,
287:Dent, Clinton Thomas,
197:Alpine distress signal
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152:
143:Grande Aiguille du Dru
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92:(4,294 m) in the
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73:silver age of alpinism
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751:20th-century surgeons
621:Engel, Claire (1971)
487:From Sight to Summit:
362:Who Was Who 1897–2006
258:Kensal Green Cemetery
176:
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96:in August 1870, with
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587:The Quarterly Review
358:DENT, Clinton Thomas
216:St George's Hospital
224:Metropolitan Police
185:Above the Snow Line
30:Clinton Thomas Dent
25:Clinton Thomas Dent
660:The New York Times
611:. London: Diadem.
537:on 9 October 2007.
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98:Alexander Burgener
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663:. 21 October 1888
640:Project Gutenberg
138:Mont Blanc massif
114:on the mountain.
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726:English surgeons
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94:Pennine Alps
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49:Eton College
46:
29:
28:
18:
691:1912 deaths
686:1850 births
575:"Review of
246:dermatology
172:Alpine Club
156:A. W. Moore
37:mountaineer
680:Categories
617:0906371430
336:References
90:Lenzspitze
63:Alongside
43:Early life
379:Who's Who
199:in 1894.
667:7 August
550:Archived
164:Caucasus
103:Saas-Fee
59:Alpinism
647:at the
134:granite
84:Dent's
615:
321:
295:
281:
230:. The
535:(PDF)
520:(PDF)
252:Death
669:2008
613:ISBN
319:ISBN
293:ISBN
279:ISBN
158:and
121:The
69:Alps
51:and
33:FRCS
638:at
591:175
360:in
202:In
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528:20
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522:.
414:^
395:.
377:.
344:^
313:,
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55:.
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671:.
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