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183:, "Rita designed most of her own clothes and they were made for her by Callot Soeurs." Supposedly, Rita was such a fashion plate that when she learned her husband was having an affair with a poorly dressed woman, she sent the mistress to Callot Soeurs for new clothing. Rita wore a silver Callot Soeurs dress when she posed for
236:
Twenty-one Callot Soeurs dresses are preserved in the Acton Art
Collection at New York University's Villa La Pietra in Florence. Additional dresses are held by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Museum at FIT, Palais Galliera, the Victoria and Albert Museum, The Kyoto
116:, American support was vital to the continued success of Callot Soeurs. While European sales fell, American buyers would order between 300 and 800 pieces every July. In response to the proliferation of knockoffs in the 1910s and 1920s, Callot Soeurs regularly placed advertisements in
204:
In 1928, Pierre Gerber, Marie Callot Gerber's son, took over the business but could not survive in the highly competitive market and, in 1937, the House of Callot Soeurs closed and was absorbed into the House of Calvet (Marie-Louise Calvet); under the Callot label. However,
221:
was head seamstress at Callot. It was here that she refined her technique in couture. She explained that "Without the example of the Callot Soeurs, I would have continued to make Fords. It is because of them that I have been able to make Rolls-Royces."
881:
57:
Callot Soeurs opened in 1895 at 24, rue
Taitbout in Paris, France. It was operated by the four Callot sisters: Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand, Regina Callot Tennyson-Chantrell and Joséphine Callot Crimon.
96:
Callot Soeurs's day dresses were well received at the 1915 Universal
Exhibition in San Francisco. In 1916, Henri Bendel was the largest buyer of Callot Soeurs in New York City. That same year, American
92:
In 1900, they were featured at the Paris World's Fair. That year, they had a staff of two hundred and did two million francs in sales. By 1901, they had tripled their workforce and doubled their sales.
128:
In 1920, Marthe Callot
Bertrand suddenly died and the widowed Regina Callot Tennyson-Chantrell retired to care for her son. Marie Callot Gerber single-handedly ran the house for the next seven years.
160:, while working in Paris, regularly wore Callot Soeurs. Hawes insisted that people should wear what they personally liked, not what was considered fashionable, and although some American
878:
164:
at that time considering Callot Soeurs' dresses out of date and unfashionable, she happily wore their "simple clothes with wonderful embroidery" that lasted her for several years.
153:
claimed that "Callot probably has more rich clients than any other establishment in the world. They come from South
America, from South Africa, and as far east as Japan."
65:, having earlier worked for Raudnitz and Co., prominent Parisian dressmakers, and they were all taught by their mother, a lacemaker. The sisters began working with antique
101:
dubbed the sisters the Three Fates, and declared them "foremost among the powers that rule the destinies of a woman's life and increase the income of France."
899:
685:
209:
made matters difficult in France. Similarly to what happened with the House of
Vionnet in 1939, Calvet and the Callot label finally closed in 1952.
985:
84:
In 1897, Joséphine was rumored to have committed suicide. There is no substantiated proof and family members believe her death was accidental.
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980:
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661:"Philadelphia Museum of Art - Collections Object : Woman's Court Presentation Ensemble: Dress, Train, Slip, Headdress and Fan"
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Callot Soeurs clothing was known for its exotic detail. They were among the first designers to use gold and silver
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Fashion: The
Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a History from the 18th to the 20th Century
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commented: "One of the most beautiful figures of the
Parisian luxury business has now disappeared."
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Costume
Institute, LACMA, the Indianapolis Museum of Art and the Ulster Museum, Belfast
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635:"Philadelphia Museum of Art - Collections Object : Woman's Reception Dress"
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In 1919, Callot Soeurs moved to larger premises at 9-11 Avenue
Matignon.
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49:) was one of the leading fashion design houses of the 1910s and 1920s.
197:
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who ordered dozens of dresses at a time. According to her sister
108:
The sales room of the haute couture house Callot Soeurs, c.1910.
900:
Dresses by the Callot sisters at the Philadelphia Museum of Art
144:
74:
70:
609:"Results for "Callot Soeurs" - The Metropolitan Museum of Art"
879:
Callot Soeurs at Chicago History Museum Digital Collections
132:
66:
171:
Portrait of Rita de Acosta Lydig by Giovanni Boldini, 1911
500:
Hollywood Before Glamour: Fashion in American Silent Film
226:
was another designer who trained with the Callot Soeurs.
81:. Their success led to an expansion into other clothing.
757:"Detail of collections 1910s | KCI Digital Archives"
131:
In the 1920s, Callot Soeurs established branches in
328:"The Fashion Designers | Transatlantic Modernities"
905:Hatcher, Jessamyn; Dukovic, Pari (23 March 2015).
195:Marie Callot Gerber died in 1927. Her obituary in
122:listing the official retailers of their designs.
932:
175:Callot Soeurs's greatest American supporter was
467:Polan, Brenda; Tredre, Roger (1 October 2009).
904:
497:Finamore, Michelle Tolini (28 January 2013).
816:Indianapolis Museum of Art Online Collection
787:"Woman's Evening Dress | LACMA Collections"
466:
891:Marie, Marthe, Regina and Joséphine Callot
61:The eldest sister, Marie, was trained in
851:"Callot Soeurs | Evening dress | French"
732:"Evening dress, Callot Soeurs | V&A"
686:"The Museum at FIT - Online Collections"
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293:day dress with collarless tunic, ca 1924
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28:
20:
986:Design companies disestablished in 1952
711:"Evening gown and stole, Callot Soeurs"
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361:
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587:"Twenty-One Dresses - Villa La Pietra"
365:Elements of Fashion and Apparel Design
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981:Design companies established in 1895
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546:. Random House. pp. Chapter 6.
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362:Sumathi, G. J. (1 January 2007).
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33:A Callot Soeurs dress, circa 1915
996:1952 disestablishments in France
976:French businesspeople in fashion
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429:"Portfolio: Twenty-One Dresses"
392:Fukai, Akiko (1 January 2002).
156:In 1926, the American designer
946:French women fashion designers
855:The Metropolitan Museum of Art
517:
1:
991:1895 establishments in France
659:Art, Philadelphia Museum of.
633:Art, Philadelphia Museum of.
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147:. A January 1922 article in
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1001:Defunct companies of France
470:The Great Fashion Designers
10:
1017:
562:Twenty First Century Blues
240:
52:
540:Hawes, Elizabeth (1938).
368:. New Age International.
25:Callot Soeurs dress label
971:Companies based in Paris
941:French fashion designers
690:fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu
526:The Ladies' Home Journal
269:Evening dress, 1910-1914
503:. Palgrave Macmillan.
172:
109:
34:
26:
884:26 April 2012 at the
837:"National Museums NI"
791:collections.lacma.org
170:
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42:French pronunciation:
32:
24:
907:"Twenty-one dresses"
338:on 22 September 2016
224:Marie-Louise Bruyère
213:Influence and legacy
177:Rita de Acosta Lydig
150:Ladies' Home Journal
16:French fashion house
767:on 20 December 2016
665:www.philamuseum.org
639:www.philamuseum.org
565:. SIU Press. 2004.
305:Cocktail suit, 1935
543:Fashion Is Spinach
332:vlpcollections.org
181:Mercedes de Acosta
173:
119:The New York Times
110:
35:
27:
613:www.metmuseum.org
589:. 15 October 2015
529:. 1 January 1922.
233:to make dresses.
219:Madeleine Vionnet
46:[kalosœʁ]
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38:Callot Soeurs
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920:. Retrieved
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858:. Retrieved
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821:15 September
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765:the original
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207:World War II
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141:Buenos Aires
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398:. Taschen.
257:, 1898-1902
114:World War I
73:to enhance
63:dressmaking
935:Categories
917:Condé Nast
311:References
281:Suit, 1917
198:Le Figaro
187:in 1911.
922:23 March
882:Archived
473:. Berg.
255:Negligee
137:Biarritz
79:lingerie
860:10 June
618:10 June
241:Gallery
112:During
75:blouses
71:ribbons
53:Origins
569:
507:
477:
402:
372:
162:buyers
145:London
143:, and
99:Vogue
67:laces
924:2015
862:2024
823:2016
798:2016
773:2016
743:2016
718:2016
697:2016
672:2016
646:2016
620:2024
595:2016
567:ISBN
505:ISBN
475:ISBN
441:2016
400:ISBN
370:ISBN
344:2016
231:lamé
133:Nice
77:and
69:and
895:FMD
893:at
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40:(
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
