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plainness, but all ladies and girls will come to love them...the season of the unsophisticated is gone by, and the young girl's final extinction beneath the rising tides of cosmetics will leave no gap in life and will rob art of nothing... Artifice, sweetest exile, is come into her kingdom." Sun-tan make-up was being used by "countless gentlemen who walk about town in the time of its desertion from August to
October, artificially bronzed, as though they were fresh from the moors or the Solent. This, I conceive, is done for purely social reasons."
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Beerbohm contended that the use of make-up by women, and some men, was becoming the norm in the 1890s, and that the mask was becoming more important than the face. His essay claimed that "most women are not as young as they are painted... Cosmetics are not going to be a mere prosaic remedy for age or
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wrote: "Max on
Cosmetics in the Yellow Book is wonderful: enough style for a large school, and all very precious and thought-out: quite delightfully wrong and fascinating". Wilde, appreciating Beerbohm's wise but ironic manner, commented that "The gods bestowed on Max the gift of perpetual old age".
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wrote to
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in April 1894. Aged 21 when the essay was published, it established his reputation. It later appeared in his first book,
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was possibly withheld because of the impending Wilde scandal. When it was published,
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was singled out for vilification as "decadent", and subsequent issues of
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Mocking the
Victorian Sages: Beerbohm's "A Defence of Cosmetics"
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containing his work were condemned by the establishment.
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Victorian & Edwardian
Fashion: A Photographic Survey
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284:A Defence of Cosmetics
223:A Defence of Cosmetics
216:A Defence of Cosmetics
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101:A Defence of Cosmetics
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69:The Pervasion of Rouge
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124:Decadence
389:A Survey
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