970:
165:, who was previously a fireman, suggested a "human ladder". Qu Yinhua removed his mountaineering shoes, and stood on Liu Lianman's shoulder to fix ice picks and safety ropes. They climbed over the Second Step at 5 p.m. Liu Lianman remained at a cave under the cliff. The others continued the ascent led by Wang Fuzhou. Oxygen ran out at 8800 m. The summit was reached at 4:20 a.m. on 25 May. The three members stayed for 15 minutes and left a 20 cm tall statue of
125:
29 April was tasked with placing the
Advance Camp at 8500 m, but only reached 7600 m by the evening due to strong winds. In the evening of 2 May, Shi Zhanchun, Xu Jing, Lhakpa Tsering and Migmar charted a route up to 8100 m. Lhakpa Tsering and Migmar descended to 7600 m to assist the transport team. Lhakpa Tsering returned to 8100 m with three transport team members, including
303:
221:(1962) included a shot that showed detailed features of the Third Step and the summit pyramid. A study of the video determined that it had been taken above 8,700 m, demonstrating that the party had overcome the crux of the way to the summit. Western mountaineers who met with their Chinese counterparts in the 1980s found the ascent credible.
185:
The nighttime summitting was not photographed. The descent was photographed. According to the team, the photos were taken at 8,700 metres (28,500 ft) at dawn but an independent analysis concluded that the photos were taken several hours later based on the angle of the sun and shadows. This cast
124:
On 19 March, the main members of the climbing team arrived at the Base Camp. The first acclimatization expedition started on 25 March, moved equipment to Camp 3, and found a route pass the North Col. The second expedition from 6 April placed Camp 4 at an altitude of 7007 m. The third expedition from
570:
It was Wager, however, who clinched the argument by using three photographs enlarged to the same scale: his own which he took in 1933 at the First Step, the
Chinese picture, and one taken by Edmund Hillary from the summit in 1953. By identifying prominent features which were juxtaposed on the
216:
wrote that contemporary written accounts from the 1960 expedition "incorporate descriptions of topographical details of the final pyramid that could only have been obtained if the party had indeed reached the top." In addition, the expedition film
176:
The summitting team returned to the
Advance Camp at 9 p.m., and Camp 3 on 28 May. The expedition returned to Base Camp on 30 May, where a celebratory ceremony was held on 1 June. Qu Yinhua lost all 10 toes and the right index finger to frostbite.
148:
and ordered the summiting to proceed. The final expedition set off on 17 May. In the afternoon of 23 May, Xu Jing, Wang Fuzhou, Liu
Lianman and Gonpo set up the Advance Camp at 8500 m. where they were joined by Qu Yinhua and the transport team.
589:
As Tom Holzel wrote, 'The
Chinese 1960 climb of Mount Everest must now certainly be ranked among the most hard-fought ascents in Himalayan history. And it must be recognized as the first proven ascent of the north side of the
665:
224:
The 1960 ascent is generally accepted as true although it remains a topic of debate amongst some members of the international mountaineering community. Among those who recognize the ascent include mountaineer
1344:
697:
1438:
97:
negotiations; the status of Mount
Everest was still disputed. In February 1960, the expedition team was formed with 214 members. The directory was Han Fudong, a veteran of the
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657:
186:
doubt on the reliability of the official expedition report. By the 1963 American expedition, no corroborating physical evidence of the ascent remained on the mountain.
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The four-member summitting team set off at 9 a.m. on 24 May. Xu Jing became exhausted and was replaced Qu Yinhua. At 12 p.m., they reached the
571:
pictures Wager showed that the
Chinese picture was taken from a point a little above the Second Step – or at 8,700 m. as the Chinese claimed.
360:
389:
1006:
693:"The 60th anniversary of the first Chinese team to summit Mount Everest, when a climber scaled a cliff in the death zone in bare feet"
170:
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101:. Shi Zhanchun and Xu Jing were team and deputy leaders, respectively. The team also included geomorphologist Wang Ming Ye.
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978:
1497:
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516:
Hemmleb, J; Johnson, LA; Simonson, ER (1999). "No Matter of Doubt: The 1960 Chinese Accent of the North Ridge".
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and the terrain near the summit, and demonstrated the viability of ascending without oxygen. In the 1960s,
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concluded that the 25 May photos were taken above the Second Step by comparing them to photos from the
205:
expeditions, although a degree of uncertainty remained due to the lack of an identifiable foreground.
1251:
1166:
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623:
484:
750:
537:
Fallen Giants: A History of
Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes
453:
1301:
1171:
87:
1502:
1492:
1286:
935:
820:
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434:(in Chinese (China)) (2). The United Front Work Department of CPC Zhejiang Provincial Committee
399:
535:
1384:
1379:
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67:
43:
658:"Everest's enduring mystery: Were Mallory and Irvine first to conquer world's highest peak?"
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915:
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31:
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The credibility of their account was doubted at the time but later was generally accepted.
8:
1227:
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1213:
1315:
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859:
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Today, much more credibility is given to the claimed first ascent of
Everest from Tibet
94:
1308:
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211:
110:
75:
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cancelled the expedition, and the
Soviets withdrew their equipment. China allocated
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874:
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The 1960 summit of Everest was one shining success in a sea of horrendous failures.
635:
624:"Performing Socialism at Altitude: Chinese expeditions to Mount Everest, 1958–1968"
460:
98:
639:
93:
Summitting Mount Everest was considered a "national task" to support the upcoming
66:. The expedition was scheduled for May 1959, but was postponed to 1960 due to the
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329:
114:
304:"China － Nepal Border Negotiation Process: A Historical Study and Enlightenment"
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1120:
920:
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caused more than 50 team members, including Shi Zhanchun, to withdraw. Marshal
62:. The same year, the Soviet Union proposed a joint Mount Everest expedition to
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843:
336:
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161:. After several unsuccessful attempts to climb over the Step's last section,
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23:
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Subsequent ascents corroborated the expedition report's descriptions of the
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with several tonnes of equipment. Camps 1 to 3 were placed at the base of
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71:
485:"ASIA, NEPAL, OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHINESE EVEREST EXPEDITION 1960"
361:"The Conquest of Mount Everest by the Chinese Mountaineering Team"
117:(5400 m), the central part of the glacier (5900 m), and under the
145:
141:
74:
to Everest Base Camp, and a weather station was established. The
812:
34:, and Qu Yinhua reached the summit at 4:20 a.m. on 25 May.
1420:
1415:
1405:
905:
395:
534:
Isserman, Maurice; Weaver, Stewart A.; Molenaar, Dee (2010).
63:
54:. In 1957, six mountaineers, including Shi Zhanchun and
585:
Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory & Irvine
582:
533:
518:
Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory & Irvine
515:
724:
In spring 1960, only the Chinese reached the summit.
712:"Mount Everest: Chinese team summit during pandemic"
109:
On 3 March 1960, the team of 192 members arrived at
58:, set a Chinese mountaineering record by summitting
566:
Everest: the ultimate book of the ultimate mountain
691:
50:to study mountaineering on an invitation from the
1479:
559:
557:
791:"The Call of Everest: The Climbers of Everest"
583:Hemmleb, J; Johnson, LA; Simonson, ER (1999).
104:
828:
554:
247:
129:, and set up camp. Shi Zhanchun climbed the
529:
527:
482:
835:
821:
511:
509:
82:to purchase mountaineering equipment from
358:
259:(in Chinese (China)). 中国新闻周刊. 24 May 2016
70:. A 380 km-long road was built from
16:First North Ridge ascent of Mount Everest
563:
524:
1032:1950–52 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance
655:
506:
464:(in Chinese (China)). 25 September 2016
86:, a cost comparable to that of the 1st
1480:
1097:Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition
1092:Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb
540:. Yale University Press. p. 346.
419:
417:
816:
689:
568:. London: GraftonBooks. p. 353.
133:and selected a route to the summit.
22:was the first to successfully ascend
20:1960 Chinese Mount Everest expedition
423:
1263:Expedition Everest (roller coaster)
1116:Francys Arsentiev (Sleeping Beauty)
769:"Everest: A Mountaineering History"
587:. Mountaineers Books. p. 192.
414:
340:(in Chinese (China)). 20 April 2009
219:Conquering the World's Highest Peak
152:
13:
1007:1933 British aerial reconnaissance
352:
301:
14:
1514:
842:
700:from the original on Mar 7, 2023.
668:from the original on Jul 20, 2023
1087:2007 Altitude Everest expedition
968:
751:"Second Step Without the Ladder"
1077:1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police
783:
761:
743:
737:"Mount Everest: Timeline, Maps"
729:
704:
683:
656:Gogorza, Óscar (13 June 2023).
649:
616:
595:
576:
398:. 27 April 2016. Archived from
42:In 1955, four athletes, led by
1276:The Man Who Skied Down Everest
476:
446:
382:
322:
295:
271:
37:
1:
1067:1976 British–Nepalese SW Face
640:10.1080/13528165.2019.1624030
427:梦圆“地球之巅” ———1960 年中国人首次征服珠峰纪实
240:
144:was monitoring progress from
1462:List of Mount Everest guides
696:. South China Morning Post.
136:After the third expedition,
7:
1001:Affair of the Dancing Lamas
987:1921 British reconnaissance
739:. ABC News. 7 January 2008.
690:Agnew, Mark (25 May 2020).
489:The American Alpine Journal
180:
105:Acclimatization expeditions
10:
1519:
483:Dyhrenfurth, G.O. (1962).
1488:Mount Everest expeditions
1452:
1429:
1393:
1325:
1252:Everest: Beyond the Limit
1180:
1167:Joint Himalayan Committee
1159:
1105:
977:
966:
850:
455:中国首次登珠峰队员屈银华去世 曾为登顶失去十根脚趾
310:(in Chinese) (1): 106–122
1072:1979 Yugoslav West Ridge
454:
431:
426:
390:
330:
279:
255:
229:, climbing guide author
121:(6400 m), respectively.
1498:Mountaineering in China
1302:The Conquest of Everest
1172:Mount Everest Committee
564:Unsworth, Walt (1991).
359:Chan-chun, Shi (1961).
88:National Games of China
1444:20th-century summiters
771:. American Alpine Club
394:(in Chinese (China)).
391:托体同山阿——"珠峰人梯"登山英雄刘连满逝世
520:. Mountaineers Books.
365:The Himalayan Journal
256:中国1960年攀登珠峰始末：以国家名义登顶
68:1959 Tibetan uprising
26:via the North Ridge.
1394:Mount Everest massif
1282:Mount Everest webcam
1062:1975 British SW Face
628:Performance Research
331:1960年中国人首次登顶珠峰站在世界之巅
283:(in Chinese (China))
173:, and a paper note.
115:East Rongbuk Glacier
1439:Times to the summit
1214:The Epic of Everest
795:National Geographic
424:Meng, Hong (2014).
1316:Wings Over Everest
1239:(Indian TV series)
714:. BBC. 27 May 2020
308:South Asia Studies
95:China-Nepal border
1475:
1474:
1309:The Wildest Dream
1141:Hannelore Schmatz
886:Kangshung Glacier
547:978-0-300-16420-6
111:Everest Base Camp
76:Sino-Soviet split
46:, went to Soviet
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972:
952:Green Boots cave
875:Hornbein Couloir
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757:. 16 March 1999.
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153:Final expedition
99:Battle of Tashan
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1454:Mountain guides
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1370:2015 avalanches
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1191:Beyond the Edge
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1082:2006 Philippine
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941:Three Pinnacles
926:Rongbuk Glacier
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797:. 25 April 2016
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402:on June 2, 2016
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233:and historian
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195:Lawrence Wager
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1269:Into Thin Air
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1131:Sandy Irvine
1052:1960 Chinese
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1047:1953 British
1037:1951 British
1027:1938 British
1022:1936 British
1017:1935 British
1012:1933 British
997:1924 British
992:1922 British
936:South Summit
870:Hillary Step
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1245:Everest '82
1231:(2015 film)
1223:(1998 film)
1208:(2007 film)
1146:David Sharp
1126:Green Boots
979:Expeditions
960:Western Cwm
946:Three Steps
882:(East Face)
865:Geneva Spur
775:15 December
634:(2). 2019.
468:15 December
438:15 December
406:15 December
374:15 December
344:15 December
314:15 December
287:15 December
263:15 December
210: [
163:Liu Lianman
159:Second Step
131:Second Step
84:Switzerland
80:US$ 700,000
60:Minya Konka
56:Liu Lianman
38:Preparation
28:Wang Fuzhou
1482:Categories
1258:EverestMax
1160:Committees
1151:Joe Tasker
1108:fatalities
1042:1952 Swiss
916:North Face
851:Topography
607:Britannica
590:mountain.'
241:References
191:Third Step
167:Mao Zedong
1401:Khumbutse
1206:The Climb
1198:The Climb
931:South Col
911:North Col
901:Lhakpa La
860:Base Camp
603:"Everest"
138:frostbite
119:North Col
1411:Lingtren
1182:In media
1106:Notable
718:17 March
698:Archived
672:17 March
666:Archived
498:16 March
280:商业登山改变珠峰
181:Reaction
72:Shigatse
1467:Sherpas
1431:Records
1237:Everest
1229:Everest
1221:Everest
801:7 March
662:El Pais
146:Beijing
142:He Long
44:Xu Jing
1421:Pumori
1416:Nuptse
1406:Lhotse
1200:(book)
906:Lho La
544:
396:Xinhua
1327:Years
214:]
127:Gonpo
64:China
32:Gonpo
1385:2018
1380:2017
1375:2016
1360:2013
1355:2012
1295:Peak
803:2023
777:2017
720:2024
674:2024
542:ISBN
500:2024
493:13–1
470:2017
440:2017
432:情系中华
408:2017
376:2017
346:2017
316:2017
289:2017
265:2017
203:1953
201:and
199:1933
169:, a
636:doi
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