689:
713:
259:
205:"Jumps" of quilted linen were also worn instead of stays for informal situations or by those who needed more freedom of movement to work. Jumps were partially boned or boned with cord instead of whalebone, and padded with cotton to provide support for the breasts while not being restrictive. Jumps were made of silk, cotton, or linen and often embroidered. Jumps fastened over the breasts with ties such as silk ribbons, buttons, and sometimes, metal hooks. Both garments were considered undergarments, and would be worn outwardly only under very limited circumstances. Stays were considered more respectable than jumps, as described in an anonymous aphorism dating to 1762: "Now a shape in neat stays, now a slattern in jumps." This phrase continued to be referenced through the end of the 19th century, although the term "stays" largely fell out of fashion.
99:
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413:. The anxiety surrounding the damaged uterus, ovaries, and fetus were frequently pointed to as a danger to the "race" (i.e., European race). Western women were thought to be weaker and more prone to birth complications than the ostensibly more vigorous, healthier, "primitive" races who did not wear corsets. Dress reformers exhorted readers to reform the corset, or risk destroying the "civilized" races. On the other hand, those who argued for the importance of corsets cited Darwinism as well, specifically the notion that women were less evolved and thus frailer, in need of the support of a corset.
20:
600:
495:
701:
624:
174:. A busk, typically made of wood, ivory, metal, or whalebone, was added to stiffen the front of the bodice. It was then carved and shaped into a thin knife shape and inserted into the Elizabethan bodice, then fastened and held into place by laces, so that the busk could be easily removed and replaced. While a few surviving bodies exist that are structured with steel or iron, these are generally considered to have been either orthopedic or novelty constructions and were not worn as part of mainstream fashion, although some
326:
864:
483:
471:
235:
314:
1782:
1828:
86:. The term "corsetâ was in use in the late 14th century, from the French "corset" which meant "a kind of laced bodice." The meaning of it as a "stiff supporting so constricting undergarment for the waist, worn chiefly by women to shape the figure," dates from 1795. The term "stays" was frequently used in English circa 1600 until the early twentieth century, and was used interchangeably with corset in the Renaissance. The term "jumps," deriving from the French word
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156:
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natural female waist, and criticized the effect of wearing stays on female health as well as the health of the fetus, when worn during gestation. By the 1770s, "short stays" became the fashion. These garments did not extend beyond the chest area and had little to no boning, instead serving to create a fashionable "shelf" shape for the bust. Short stays were appropriate to wear beneath the
402:
results of male conspiracy to make women subservient by cultivating them in slave psychology.â They believed a change in fashions could change the position of women, allowing for more social mobility, independence from men and marriage, the ability to work for wages, and better physical movement and comfort.
565:, a female doctor who was interested in the corset, is credited with creating the straight-fronted busk corset to address gynecological problems her patients suffered. This design, seen on the left, purported to reduce pressure on the wearer's abdomen. The new silhouette became the mode by the late 1890s.
378:
recorded that she had to obtain a silver "husk" before accompanying her brother to India because a humid climate rusted the usual steel and spoilt the garment. In 1839, a
Frenchman by the name of Jean Werly made a patent for women's corsets made on the loom. As seen in various fashion advertisements
362:
Prior to this era, each corset was hand made by one person from start to finish, either at home or by individual craftsmen, called staymakers. By the 19th century, most corsets were made in factories, and each step was performed by a different group of people, often children. Heavy or messy work was
286:
criticized the glorification of an artificial body shape, created by stays, as more beautiful than the natural human form. Fashion trended towards loose, thin dresses which resembled the shift dresses worn as undergarments by previous generations. Doctors and philosophers promoted the beauty of the
424:
So burn up the corsets! No, nor do you save the whalebones. You will never need whalebones again. Make a bonfire of the cruel steels that has lorded it over the contents of the abdomen and thorax for so many thoughtless years, and heave a sigh of relief: for your 'emancipation,' I assure you, has
401:
to achieve ever-smaller waistlines. While support for fashionable dress contested that corsets maintained an upright, âgood figureâ, as a necessary physical structure for moral and well-ordered society, dress reformists contested that womenâs fashions were not only physically detrimental but âthe
54:
for women, dating, in Europe, back several centuries, evolving as fashion trends have changed and being known, depending on era and geography, as a pair of bodies, stays and corsets. The appearance of the garment represented a change from people wearing clothes to fit their bodies to changing the
353:
By the 1820s, the high waisted gown fell out of fashion and what we now think of as corsets returned, along with the elaborate, structured gowns associated with the
Victorian era. Along with the change in trends, industrialization of the garment industry meant that by the 1830s, steel stays had
197:
The most common type of corset in the 1700s was an inverted conical shape, often worn to create a contrast between a rigid quasi-cylindrical torso above the waist and heavy full skirts below. The primary purpose of 18th-century stays was to shape the torso into a fashionable 'V' or cone shape,
133:. They were used to "beautify" women and also to ensure modesty. Corsets were laced tightly with as many as fifty laces, and had to be worn from childhood until the wedding night. When the marriage was consummated, a groom had to slowly and carefully undo each lace to demonstrate self-control.
584:
began to catch on in the 1910s, fewer and fewer corsets included bust support. A new type of corset covered the thighs and changed the position of the hip, making the waist appear higher and wider and the hips narrower, forecasting the "flapper" silhouette of the 1920s. The new fashion was
166:
For most of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries corsets were known, in
English, as bodies or stays. These garments could be worn as under or outer wear. The women of the French court saw this corset as "indispensable to the beauty of the female figure."
740:, protestors symbolically threw a number of feminine products into a "Freedom Trash Can." These included girdles and corsets, which were among items the protestors called "instruments of female torture". The 1960s and 1970s saw the rise of towards popular
688:
444:
Despite these protests, the corset did not fall out of fashion for many decades. However, many corset manufacturers began to offer a variety of corsets which promoted "hygiene" (referring to the general health of the body), introducing features such as
556:
As discussed in the previous sections, health concerns around the usage of corsets led to the development of "hygienic" corsets which purported to be less harmful to the wearer's health. A number of doctors themselves became
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stance to conform to the shape of the corset and avoid crumpling the flexible bones inside. The straight-front corset could be paired with bum, hip, and bust pads to create a fashionably exaggerated silhouette.
211:
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of this period connected lifelong corset-wearing to the difficult births that many
Victorian women experienced. In particular, the use of corsets during pregnancy was widely condemned, with physician
62:. While the corset has typically been worn as an undergarment, it has occasionally been used as an outer-garment; stays as outer-garments can be seen in the national dress of many European countries.
712:
58:
A "pair of bodies" or stays, the supportive garments that predated corsets, first became popular in sixteenth-century Europe, with the corset reaching the zenith of its popularity in the
437:
writing sardonically: "The corset should not be worn for two hundred years before pregnancy takes place." This public health outcry led to the development of the pregnancy corset by
736:
and youth rebellion led the wasp-waisted silhouette to fall out of favor. Feminist activists protested against the restrictive nature of Dior's designs. In 1968 at the feminist
1681:
185:," a long, flat piece of whalebone or wood sewn into a casing on the corset in order to maintain its stiff upright shape. The front of the corset was typically covered by a "
358:, meant that these corsets could be tightened significantly tighter than the stays of the 18th century. In addition, the manufacture of stays was turned over to the
429:
Along with dress reformists, doctors began to criticize recent trends in corsets. Reformists claimed that lifelong corset-wearing had a variety of health risks.
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role in a 1952 movie of the same name. The Merry Widow differed from earlier corsets in that it separated the breasts, whereas corsets had held them together.
568:
Along with a change to the pattern and structure of the corset, the S-bend silhouette also necessitated a change in posture, requiring the wearer to adopt a
181:
By the end of the sixteenth century, bodies were commonly worn garment among the elites of Europe. The garments gradually began to incorporate the use of a "
580:
From 1908 to 1914, the fashionable narrow-hipped and narrow-skirted silhouette necessitated the lengthening of the corset at its lower edge. Meanwhile, as
441:, who consulted her husband, a physician and anatomist, to create more anatomically forgiving corsets for a variety of situations, including maternity.
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and fashion houses faced widespread fabric shortages. The glamorous Dior designs symbolized a return to femininity under post-war
American prosperity.
337:
623:
303:. Lightly boned stays were still worn for formal occasions, but it was acceptable to forego them, even at highly formal settings such as at the
611:
291:
gowns of the period, which were loose and unrestrictive below the chest and created a long, columnar line which referenced the clothing of
118:
made circa 1600 BCE. The article of clothing depicted resembles a corset, but is worn as an outer garment, and leaves the breasts exposed.
1543:
234:
98:
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The corset has largely fallen out of mainstream fashion since the 1920s in Europe and North
America, replaced by girdles and elastic
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1323:
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170:
Early pairs of bodies were typically made out of layered fabrics like linen and silk, stiffened with starch, and stiffened with
1643:
1966:
1333:
1306:
947:
538:
An advertisement, in French, for a hygienic corset, claiming to maintain the wearer's organs in their normal position, 1906
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movement of the 1850s and 1860s opposed corsets and advocated against their use, particularly the high-fashion trend of
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1361:
1217:
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considered uncomfortable, cumbersome, and required the use of strips of elastic fabric. The development of rubberized
552:
1900 illustration contrasting the old
Victorian corseted silhouette with the new Edwardian "S-bend" corseted silhouette
520:
1495:
760:, and many women chose to forgo supportive undergarments like girdles or corsets, preferring a more athletic figure.
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in 1947. The "New Look" silhouette featured full skirts and nipped-in waists which appealed to the nostalgia of post-
879:
1981:
39:
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America. The style contrasted sharply from the more utilitarian styles that had been needed during wartime, when
90:"short jacket," referred to stays without boning, which were less structured and typically laced in the front.
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103:
313:
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2028:
325:
2058:
2007:
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141:
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Both corsets and girdles remained popular throughout the 1950s and 1960s, especially with the creation of
1951:
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began to incorporate corsets with printed designs. In the 1980s, other haute couture designers such as
1507:
Store
Operations: Cinch Bra Gets Glamour Treatment. (1952, March 18). Womenâs Wear Daily, 84(54), 67.
1247:
Lord, William Barry. The Corset and the
Crinoline: An Illustrated History. Courier Corporation, 2007.
589:
materials in 1911 helped the girdle replace the corset. However, these garments were better known as
562:
1625:
561:, either fitting their patients into corsets or even going into the corset-making trade themselves.
367:
the steels to prevent rust, and lighter work, such as sewing the bones in place, was taken home by
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and material shortages again became widespread, necessitating sleeker, more utilitarian designs.
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started to replace the classic whalebone. The advent of steel boning, as well as metal clasps and
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1971:
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1946:
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1419:
449:, buttons instead of metal clasps, or more lightweight fabrics, which became highly popular.
1956:
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19:
8:
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Four women demonstrating the short skirted, straight-line silhouettes of the late 1920s.
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189:," a stiff, V-shaped structure that was worn on the abdomen for decorative purposes.
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2002:
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In the early 2020s, corset-inspired tops and dresses began to trend as part of the
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114:
The earliest known representation of a possible corset appears on a figurine from
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A quilted linen pair of jumps with silk embroidery, late 17th-early 18th century.
182:
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subcultures. In the fetish and BDSM literature, there is often much emphasis on
1910:
1897:
1548:
823:
787:, and many corset makers cater to the fetish market. Women associated with the
639:
A return to waist nipping corsets in 1939 caused a stir in fashion circles but
292:
245:
2022:
1976:
1817:
1569:
Dow, Bonnie J. (Spring 2003). "Feminism, Miss
America, and Media Mythology".
808:
804:
772:
656:
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368:
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175:
59:
1781:
1877:
1827:
1736:
1235:
Costume in England: a history of dress to the end of the eighteenth century
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394:
296:
51:
1682:"What Is Regencycore? A Look at the Fashion Trend Taking Over This Spring"
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27:
1930:
1854:
1724:
The Anatomy of Fashion: Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today
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of the 1960s and 70s brought with it midriff-revealing styles like the
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126:
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shape of their bodies to support and fit their fashionable clothing.
1390:
1259:"The Age of Undress - Neoclassicism, Fashion & "Living Statues""
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1961:
1807:
902:
768:
767:, but has survived as an article of costume. Originally an item of
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410:
198:
slightly tapering the waist and creating an upright shoulders-back
130:
106:(or priestess), wearing a corset-like garment, from the palace of
908:
629:
A longline corset which primarily slims the hips and thighs, 1917
355:
249:
107:
845:. These designs typically do not incorporate any form of boning.
1812:
1802:
1789:
1767:
1710:
Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680â1810
1377:
Riegel, Robert E. (1963). "Women's Clothes and Women's Right".
896:
733:
225:
47:
35:
1325:
Bound & Determined: A Visual History of Corsets, 1850-1960
155:
1049:
Hindley, Alan; Langley, Frederick W.; Levy, Brian J. (2000).
655:
In 1952, a corset known as 'The Merry Widow' was released by
371:, generally women who enlisted their children to help them.
221:
218:
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became the preferred methods of achieving a thin waist. The
593:, and had the express purpose of reducing the hips in size.
905: â Woman's foundation garment combining bra and girdle
776:
771:, the corset has become a popular item of outerwear in the
719:
659:. Initially, the Merry Widow was a trademark of the famous
405:
The corset controversy was also closely tied to notions of
31:
24:
1668:"Fashion Archives: A Look at the History of the Crop Top".
1644:"Vogue's fashion encyclopaedia: The history of the corset"
1208:(5th ed.). New York: Fairchild Publications. p.
348:
581:
1544:"How Christian Dior revolutionized fashion 70 years ago"
1158:
Countries and their Cultures, World Culture Encyclopedia
1133:
Countries and their Cultures, World Culture Encyclopedia
940:
Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700â1915
343:
An 1823 fashion plate, showing a Regency era ball gown
82:, meaning "body," which itself derives from the Latin
1356:. New York: Homes and Meier Publishers. p. 134.
1118:
Steele, V. The Corset A Cultural History, 2001, Yale,
938:
Takeda, Sharon Sadako; Spilker, Kaye Durland (2010).
379:
of the era, the common corset cost one dollar ($ 1).
363:
done in house, such as cutting the fabric pieces and
1461:"Inès Gâches-Sarraute and the Straight-Front Corset"
1490:, p.102. John Wiley & Songs, Inc., New Jersey.
543:
269:
228:. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.133.
1731:Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset
1298:Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset
1201:
1048:
1195:
1193:
1004:Dress and Undress: a history of women's underwear
2020:
1006:. New York: Drama Book Specialists. p. 19.
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1603:
121:Corsets have been used for centuries among the
1568:
1488:Scientific American Inventions and Discoveries
1347:
1345:
1190:
833:aesthetic, inspired by television series like
1752:
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937:
382:
1766:
1641:
997:
995:
993:
70:The English word corset is derived from the
1342:
1200:Tortora, Phyllis G.; Eubank, Keith (1989).
807:associations of the garment. In the 1970s,
1759:
1745:
1321:
1180:Gleason's Pictorial Drawing Room Companion
605:A diagram of a straight-front corset, 1902
136:
93:
1237:(2nd ed.). London: G. Bell and Sons.
990:
795:subcultures experimented with corsets as
178:believe that they were not worn at all.
1432:
1232:
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154:
140:
97:
18:
1518:"What is a Merry Widow? (with picture)"
1351:
1294:
349:Late Regency and early Victorian period
2021:
1436:Tokology : A book for every woman
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799:, reclaiming the sexual symbolism and
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1233:Fairholt, Frederick William (1885).
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1104:
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1100:
899: â Clothing for women and girls
748:was invented in the mid-1970s), and
744:, and diet, plastic surgery (modern
680:women entered the workforce en masse
650:
645:women entered the workforce en masse
1322:Seleshanko, Kristina (2013-04-09).
1129:"Circassians - Marriage and Family"
826:began to experiment with corsets.
634:
16:The history of the corset and stays
13:
1702:
1666:Bucci, Jessica (7 November 2015).
1642:Bass-Krueger, Maude (2019-04-17).
1632:
1443:
1275:
1154:"Abkhazians - Marriage and Family"
461:1859 corset with built-in partial
34:-float patterning, stiffened with
14:
2070:
1263:Yale University Press London Blog
1097:
299:. This style of dress was called
274:During and shortly following the
1826:
1780:
1604:Duffett, Judith (October 1968).
1459:Libes, Kenna (5 February 2023).
878:
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544:Edwardian and Post-Edwardian era
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270:Late 18th and early 19th century
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40:Los Angeles County Museum of Art
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1562:
1542:Tomes, Jan (10 February 2017).
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1315:
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1226:
1171:
1146:
663:company, which designed it for
192:
1977:The Warner Brothers Corset Co.
1717:The Corset: A Cultural History
1712:(Pickering & Chatto, 2014)
1121:
1067:
1053:. Cambridge University Press.
1042:
1020:
978:"History of Corsets 1780-1912"
970:
956:
931:
885:Corset-inspired tank top, 2021
319:Regency short stays circa 1810
1:
1719:(Yale University Press, 2001)
1571:Rhetoric & Public Affairs
1257:Rauser, Amelia (2020-03-02).
1051:Old French-English Dictionary
1030:. Online Etymology Dictionary
924:
857:A goth woman wearing a corset
728:Late 20th century and onwards
526:A pregnancy corset, 1900-1908
23:Woman's stays c. 1730â1740.
1204:A Survey of Historic Costume
732:By the 1960s, the advent of
418:Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward
224:weave fabric stiffened with
65:
7:
1680:Ilchi, Layla (2022-04-29).
1465:Fashion History Timeline |
1433:Stockham, Alice B. (1883).
942:. Prestel USA. p. 76.
890:
722:, exemplifying the New Look
672:Christian Dior's "New Look"
240:A pair of stays, c. 1780.
10:
2075:
1418:. Boston: Osgood. p.
1412:Phelps, Elizabeth (1873).
1002:Ewings, Elizabeth (1978).
706:Diagram of a girdle, 1930s
386:
383:Mid- to Late-Victorian era
162:from the late 16th century
1990:
1939:
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1863:
1835:
1824:
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1778:
1486:Carlisle, Rodney (2004).
1186:(26): 412. December 1854.
718:A 1954 evening gown from
1952:Frederick's of Hollywood
1352:Ribeiro, Aileen (1986).
1079:White Pavilion Clothiers
1075:"Bodice? Corset? Stays?"
617:Corset production, 1912.
1328:. Courier Corporation.
1295:Summers, Leigh (2001).
964:"History of the Corset"
512:"Perfect Health" Corset
425:from this moment begun.
137:16th and 17th centuries
94:Before the 16th century
1178:"Article on corsets".
1081:. 2014. Archived from
643:ended their return as
553:
427:
331:Short stays circa 1803
163:
152:
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43:
1708:Sorge-English, Lynn,
1583:10.1353/rap.2003.0028
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435:Alice Bunker Stockham
422:
158:
144:
101:
22:
2049:20th-century fashion
2044:19th-century fashion
2039:18th-century fashion
2034:17th-century fashion
2029:16th-century fashion
1940:Corset manufacturers
1606:WLM vs. Miss America
738:Miss America protest
563:Inès Gâches-Sarraute
104:Minoan snake goddess
2059:History of clothing
2008:Foundation garments
1301:. Berg Publishers.
146:Henry III of France
110:, Crete: c.1600 BCE
30:with supplementary
1873:Corset controversy
1379:American Quarterly
1354:Dress and Morality
1085:on 7 November 2018
820:Jean Paul Gaultier
554:
389:Corset controversy
242:The Fashion Museum
164:
153:
150:Louise of Lorraine
112:
44:
2016:
2015:
1906:Body modification
1715:Steele, Valerie,
1335:978-0-486-27628-1
1308:978-1-85973-510-7
949:978-3-7913-5062-2
873:wearing a corset.
816:Vivienne Westwood
754:sexual revolution
651:Post-World War II
301:robe Ă la grecque
289:empire silhouette
276:French Revolution
2066:
1898:Corset fetishism
1888:Roxey Ann Caplin
1883:Hourglass corset
1830:
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1729:Summers, Leigh,
1722:Vincent, Susan,
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1670:Startup Fashion.
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1878:Metal corset
1864:
1837:Corsetmaking
1772:corsetmaking
1733:(Berg, 2001)
1730:
1726:(Berg, 2009)
1723:
1716:
1709:
1689:. Retrieved
1685:
1675:
1662:
1651:. Retrieved
1648:Vogue France
1647:
1608:. p. 4.
1605:
1599:
1574:
1570:
1564:
1553:. Retrieved
1547:
1537:
1525:. Retrieved
1521:
1512:
1503:
1487:
1482:
1471:. Retrieved
1464:
1435:
1428:
1415:What to Wear
1414:
1407:
1382:
1378:
1372:
1353:
1324:
1317:
1297:
1266:. Retrieved
1262:
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1234:
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1203:
1183:
1179:
1173:
1161:. Retrieved
1157:
1148:
1136:. Retrieved
1132:
1123:
1087:. Retrieved
1083:the original
1078:
1069:
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1044:
1032:. Retrieved
1022:
1003:
981:. Retrieved
972:
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841:
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809:high-fashion
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676:World War II
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374:The diarist
373:
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204:
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193:18th century
180:
169:
165:
120:
113:
102:Figurine of
87:
83:
79:
69:
57:
52:undergarment
45:
42:, M.63.24.5.
1921:Tightlacing
1916:Neck corset
1622:|work=
914:Rib removal
831:regencycore
801:fetishistic
785:tightlacing
746:liposuction
559:corsetieres
500:1890 corset
488:1878 corset
476:1869 corset
399:tightlacing
305:royal court
284:classicists
160:Iron corset
123:Circassians
28:plain weave
2023:Categories
1991:Categories
1931:Wasp waist
1855:Spoon busk
1691:2023-12-28
1653:2023-12-28
1555:2023-12-28
1527:27 January
1473:2023-12-27
1268:2023-12-27
1163:6 November
1138:6 November
1089:6 November
1034:6 November
983:2023-08-22
925:References
919:Thin ideal
871:dominatrix
836:Bridgerton
765:brassieres
661:Maidenform
387:See also:
376:Emily Eden
116:Minoan art
76:Old French
72:diminutive
1982:Worcester
1788:Types of
1624:ignored (
1614:cite book
1591:143094250
814:designer
797:outerwear
463:crinoline
365:japanning
187:stomacher
172:whalebone
66:Etymology
36:whalebone
2054:Corsetry
1998:Corsetry
1962:Spirella
1947:Baystate
1808:Corselet
1522:wiseGEEK
1028:"Corset"
903:Corselet
891:See also
769:lingerie
758:crop top
750:exercise
657:Warner's
574:swayback
570:lordotic
416:In 1873
411:eugenics
2003:Fashion
1972:Vollers
1865:History
1803:Corsage
1768:Corsets
1467:FIT NYC
1399:2711370
909:Dieting
591:girdles
587:elastic
514:c 1890.
447:elastic
420:wrote:
356:eyelets
250:England
200:posture
108:Knossos
74:of the
1813:Girdle
1798:Basque
1790:corset
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897:Bodice
779:, and
773:fetish
226:baleen
127:Abkhaz
84:corpus
48:corset
1957:Kraus
1587:S2CID
1395:JSTOR
222:twill
219:Linen
80:corps
78:word
1850:Busk
1770:and
1626:help
1529:2016
1492:ISBN
1358:ISBN
1330:ISBN
1303:ISBN
1214:ISBN
1165:2018
1140:2018
1091:2018
1055:ISBN
1036:2018
1008:ISBN
944:ISBN
839:and
822:and
812:punk
793:punk
791:and
789:goth
781:Goth
777:BDSM
720:Dior
582:bras
409:and
393:The
297:Rome
295:and
282:and
246:Bath
183:busk
148:and
125:and
88:jupe
46:The
32:weft
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1686:WWD
1579:doi
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