Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

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Some Dior collections from this period contain themes that would appear in Saint Laurent's independent work years later, such as the smock tops and safari jackets in Dior's 1957 "Libre" line. In August 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurent's mother to tell her that he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him as a designer. His mother later said that she had been confused by the remark, as Dior was only 52 years old at the time. Both she and her son were surprised when Dior died at a health spa in northern Italy of a massive heart attack in October 1957.

5867: 5855: 5879: 349:, a giant in the fashion world. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak in front of him. He taught me the basis of my art. Whatever was to happen next, I never forgot the years I spent at his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's style continued to mature and gain even more notice. Dior hired him as an assistant and later named him his successor. 416:. His spring 1958 collection almost certainly saved the enterprise from financial ruin. The simple, flaring lines of his first collection for Dior, called the Trapeze line, a variation of Dior's 1955 A-Line, catapulted him to international stardom. Dresses in the collection featured a narrow shoulder that flared gently to a hem that just covered the knee. 3242:...n 1974,...Saint Laurent created a Russian-themed collection....Saint Laurent's collection featured full skirts that fell below the knees, thick sweaters, capes, quilted gold jackets, velvet and satin knickerbockers, long fur coats and matching fur hats, and a new, and very distinctive, style of knee-length fashion boot...loose-fitting... 44: 904:(PACS) in France. When Saint Laurent was diagnosed as terminal, with only one or two weeks left to live, Bergé and the doctor mutually decided that it would be better for him not to know of his impending death. Bergé said, "I have the belief that Yves would not have been strong enough to accept that." 572:

writers ranked the collection with that of Givenchy as among the best in Paris. It featured India-inspired evening dress, a mostly dark, rich color palette, and a refinement of the bohemian influences seen in his fall 1960 Dior collection, evoking in many journalists' minds Paris's

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Yves Saint Laurent...at the age of 21 found himself perched upon the multi-million franc edifice of the most influential fashion house in the world....ith his first collection,...he launched the rapeze line....'Saint Laurent has saved France!' said the French headlines. 'The great Dior tradition will

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In 2022, the "Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées" exhibition was held simultaneously at six Parisian cultural institutions, demonstrating the enduring legacy of his work and his lifelong fascination with art. This exhibition highlighted his connections to various art forms and his ability to blend fashion

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industry and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed the advice, left Oran for Paris after graduation, began his studies there and eventually graduated as a star pupil. Later that same year, he entered the International Wool Secretariat competition again and won, beating his friend

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suit for women and was known for his use of non-European cultural references and of diverse models. Historian Caroline Milbank wrote, "The most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture's rise from

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When did he first do the Mondrian styles? When was the first smoking jacket? How about the first tiered challis printed baby dress, the first cowboy styles, the first ruffled peasant styles? If you didn't remember exactly, it didn't matter, since the current versions, while new, look familiar enough

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Niki de Saint-Phalle, an American artist living in , has had the best influence of all on Saint Laurent...Miss Saint-Phalle...always wears trouser suits with...boots....Now Saint Laurent has copied her 'black tie' trouser suit in velvet and in wool....In wool, it has a very ruffly white shirt, a big

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During the 1970s, Saint Laurent came to be considered the most prominent designer in the world, adapting his designs to modern women's needs. Even in his sometimes lavish Russian peasant collections of the middle of the decade, the clothes themselves remained comfortable and wearable. He is credited

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recognised his talent immediately, Saint Laurent spent his first year at the House of Dior on mundane tasks, decorating the studio and designing accessories. Eventually he was allowed to submit sketches for the couture collection. With each passing season, more of his sketches were accepted by Dior.

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Shortly after his win, he brought a number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized close similarities to sketches he had been shown that morning by Christian Dior. Knowing that Dior had created the sketches that morning and that the young man could not have seen them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior,

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Saint Laurent's decision to interpret...youthful street fashion in expensive materials caused a furore at Dior...His Left Bank 'Beat Look' included black leather suits and coats, knitted caps, high turtleneck collars, and biker-style jackets in mink and crocodile skin....Saint Laurent had failed to

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set in 2007 for a Matisse work and sold for 32 million euros. The record-breaking sale realized 342.5 million euros (£307 million). The subsequent auction, 17–20 November, included 1,185 items from the couple's Normandy villa. While not as impressive as the first auction, it featured

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The saddest moment of the spring ready-to-wear collections was the hackneyed offering of Yves Saint Laurent. What a pathetic decline for the former king of world fashion, who dominated design for...twenty years. One couldn't believe that the same man was responsible for what was paraded before the

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Yves Saint Laurent was good for a few laughs...An obvious tart...sashayed through the salon. She represented the spirit of the nineteen-forties....The first spurts of laughter were followed by nervous reflection....Was Saint Laurent making fun of the nineteen-forties – or the audience? Or was the

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During the student upheavals in Paris in May , saw the girls and boys behind the barricades dressed...in pants...'They looked beautiful...,' he said...'Fashion is not only couture....Events are more important.'... his last Paris couture collection, shown in July,...ants outfits overshadowed more

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In his Autumn-Winter 1966 collection, Yves Saint Laurent introduced his most iconic piece: the tuxedo....he Saint Laurent Rive Gauche version was a success. The label's younger clientele was quick to purchase it, making the tuxedo a classic. Saint Laurent would go on to include it in each of his

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Yves Saint Laurent brought in new changes to the fashion industry in the 60s and the 70s. The French designer opened his prêt-à-porter house YSL Rive Gauche in 1967, where he was starting to shift his focus from haute couture to ready-to-wear. One of the purposes was to provide a wider range of

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His debut collection, presented for spring 1962, included early examples of the cut-outs that would be popular in fashion in a few years, but it received mixed reviews. His second collection, for fall 1962, was celebrated as his best since his 1958 Trapeze collection for Dior. Fashion

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looks that would dominate the 1980s, he relied on a restricted set of styles based largely on big-shouldered jackets and narrow skirts and trousers that didn't vary much during the decade, resulting in some fashion writers bemoaning the loss of his former inventiveness and others welcoming the

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magazine and a connection to his father. Michel De Brunhoff, a considerate person who encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketches that Saint Laurent brought with him and suggested he should become a fashion designer. Saint Laurent eventually considered a course of study at the Chambre

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Saint Laurent's 1960 beat look was belatedly adapted: Samuel Robery showed simple leather shifts, Scaasi presented black alligator trousers, Ellen Brooke used black lacquered alligator for windbreaker jackets, and mock alligator was chosen by Modelia for polo coats and by David Kidd for short

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His house in his hometown of Oran, where he lived until the age of 18, was bought by an Oran entrepreneur named Mohamed Affane. He restored and transformed it into a museum, which has been open since July 2022. The period furniture has been recovered and replaced exactly as it was. Around 400

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His talent was recognized when he won first place in a contest by the International Wool Secretariat at the age of 17. This achievement led to his move to Paris, where he enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. At the age of 18, Saint Laurent moved to Paris and enrolled at the

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sculptures. Saint Laurent and Bergé began collecting art in the 1950s. Before the sale, Bergé commented that the decision to sell the collection was taken because, without Saint Laurent, "it has lost the greater part of its significance", with the proceeds proposed for the creation of a new

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buyers and press. The loss of Saint Laurent's legendary color mixing, the rehash of decade-old designs, the afterthought accessories, left the audience confounded. One wanted to believe that Saint Laurent was not involved....e appeared to have lost a very rare gift – his creative talent.

464:, the owner of the House of Dior and a powerful press baron, had put pressure on the government not to conscript Saint Laurent in 1958 and 1959, but after the disastrous Fall 1958 season, reversed course and asked that the designer be conscripted so that he could be replaced. 696:

called the spring 1971 collection "Une grande farce!" Criticism notwithstanding, Saint Laurent's influence was such that the collection did lead to some general fashion changes in shoulder and lapel shape and increased the popularity of tailored blazers.

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Yves Saint Laurent, the acknowledged king of the status quo in Europe, may have been a revolutionary in his early days...Now, however, St. Laurent has imposed a paralyzing primness...that suggests a retreat to the philistine cathedral of acceptable good

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In his second collection for Dior, presented for fall 1958, he iconoclastically lowered hemlines by five inches and was not greeted with the same level of approval that his first collection received, with many considering it a major misstep. Soon after,

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that he owned with Bergé since 1980 and often visited to find inspiration and refuge. Bergé said at the funeral service (in French): "But I also know that I will never forget what I owe you and that one day I will join you under the Moroccan palms."

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since the late sixties and although Saint Laurent had presented a few 1940s looks late in the previous year, for a designer of his stature to devote an entire couture collection to the 1940s raised some hackles. Some felt it romanticized the

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women's tuxedo suit (1966), and safari jackets for men and women (1967). Many of his designs were inspired by women's lives in the sociopolitical climate of the time, particularly the trousers he showed in 1968 after witnessing the epochal

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Dior's...'A' line consisted of coats, suits and dresses flared out into wide triangles from narrow shoulders. The waistline was the cross bar of the A and could be positioned either under the bust in an Empire manner or low down on the

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The beat look is the news at Dior...pale zombie faces; leather suits and coats; knitted caps and high turtleneck collars, black endlessly....Saint Laurent's...'beat' collection is the most unpopular look in Paris, and his last for

3469:...Saint Laurent's 1940's revival had its effect. As it turned out, the tailored style came back, with a slightly lifted shoulderline and wider, more pointed lapels, and the blazer became a mainstay of U.S. fashion in the fall. 2634:

The most important coat to come out of the couture this year was Saint Laurent's 'pea jacket.' Modelled on the sailor's traditional double-breasted garment and already an American classic, it now gained lasting international

3752:...Saint Laurent may have reached the point where he feels that he has made his basic contribution to fashion and that now, like Chanel who kept on and on with her famous suit — he wants to reinforce his legend. 1959:

The spring collection, the third designed by young Yves St. Laurent, is full of the feeling of the Thirties....St. Laurent...now shows the same length that is shown all over Paris – an inch or two below the

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Yves Saint Laurent has retreated into an autocritical contemplation of his years as the established 'No. 1' of Paris fashion. These days, he is creating refined and rethought versions of his legendary look.

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What Saint Laurent sprang on the fashion world last January when he introduced man‐tailored suit jackets with shoulders squared out with padding...has now become staple fashion in Italy, France and America.

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Pants...have the endorsement of...Yves Saint Laurent, who devoted a good part of his last Paris collection to them and now is selling them like blue jeans...The wider cut to the legs has won many adherents.

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was hired to assist St. Laurent, and the spring 1959 Dior collection brought lengths back to the knee in a well-received collection inspired by the 1930s. Later collections for the House of Dior featuring

2521:...his black ciré satins with ruffs of black mink, his rajah coats and tubular dresses worn with turbans and dark stockings, his long pulled-down tops and barrel skirts, all worn with rich dark jewellery. 851:, who managed the YSL boutiques in North America; French model Nicole Dorier, who became the director of his runway shows, and later, the "memory" of his house when it became a museum; and French model 1253:"Yves Saint Laurent, Who Has Died Aged 71, was, with Coco Chanel, regarded as the Greatest Figure in French Fashion in the 20th Century, and could be said to have Created the Modern Woman's Wardrobe" 4445: 999:. A French judge dismissed the claim and the sculptures, heads of a rabbit and a rat, sold for €15,745,000. However, the anonymous buyer revealed himself to be Cai Mingchao, a representative of the 3499:...Yves Saint Laurent...hard-edged blazers and fluffy fur jackets...have cropped up all over Seventh Avenue....Shoulders are significantly broadened, some of them showing a suspicion of padding. 1643:

For the nation's largest industry, the well-being of its most prominent couture house was of great social and economic importance....Saint Laurent's first collection...was a resounding success.

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Yves Saint Laurent's fall...1963...visored caps, black leather jerkins, and Roger Vivier's towering cuissardes in black crocodile...gave what Ashley called 'a real space girl effect...'

3441:...ritics...attacked World War II floozy look...When his mannequins paraded like 1940s streetwalkers..., one critic cried 'hideous' and a...news magazine renamed him 'Yves St. Debacle'. 568:, cosmetics company Charles of the Ritz, and others. Many Dior staff joined him at his new enterprise. Saint Laurent and Bergé split romantically in 1976 but remained business partners. 5573: 2093: 775:

collections every year. He increasingly turned to alcohol and drugs. At some shows, he could barely walk down the runway at the end of the show, and he had to be supported by models.

3184:'Saint Laurent designs for women with double lives. His day clothes...permit her to go anywhere without attracting unwelcome attention...In the evening..., he makes her seductive.' 5335: 5198: 3784:

Saint Laurent says the day of big fashion changes is over. What he cares about is refining the classic, the basics, perfecting what he has already put into the fashion vernacular.

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Leading Paris couturier Yves St. Laurent, from whose influence the vogue for trousers could be said to have stemmed, continued to promote them in his spring and fall collections.

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Called a prodigy...in 1957...is success was not repeated until now....His first collection was less than a smash but his second...has lifted him to the pinnacle of Paris couture.

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The reason why he is the most copied designer in the world is because he looks at the way people live and the way they dress and then tries to make them look a little better.

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The fashion house of Christian Dior...has bestowed the ultimate glory on...Marc Bohan. It has been announced that Bohan will replace...Yves Saint Laurent as chief designer.

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from a different perspective by helping women find confidence by looking both comfortable and elegant at the same time. He is also credited with having introduced the "

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His classics,...he says, 'are the modern things and they are for the future. They are now as good as they can be....The basic things have been made. Now we can stop'.

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Karl Lagerfeld..., Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy...continued with their versions of the rather aggressive broad-shouldered silhouette...

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Yves Saint Laurent...clothes...are nice, clean, casual clothes to keep a woman looking calm and controlled as she moves through the anxieties of modern living.

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After his release from the hospital in November 1960, Saint Laurent sued Dior for breach of contract and won. After a period of convalescence, he and his

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lines at the same time – the House of Yves Saint Laurent merely announced its line first. The first of the company's Rive Gauche stores, which sold the

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Shoulder pads have collapsed in many of the collections, though Yves Saint Laurent makes it all right with the fashion world to keep on wearing them...

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of that year. Saint Laurent is often said to have been the main designer responsible for making more widely acceptable the wearing of pants by women.

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line became extremely popular with the public if not with the critics and eventually earned many times more for Saint Laurent and Bergé than the

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by fellow soldiers led to him being admitted to a military hospital, where he received news that he had been fired from Dior, to be replaced by

3933:...Saint Laurent revived things from past collections to assure his customers that they can keep on wearing his styles no matter what the year. 2787:

Yves Saint Laurent first introduced the safari jacket in his 1967 runway shows. However, it was a one-off design created for a photo-essay for

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The dress sloped down from the shoulders to a widened hem just below the knee, maintaining a definite geometric line through precise tailoring.

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He received financial backing from a variety of sources, including a businessman from Georgia and the cosmetics company Charles of the Ritz...

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Marc Bohan...has been hired by the House of Christian Dior to help Yves St. Laurent turn out Dior fashions for New York and South America...

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The News Sorority: Diane Sawyer, Katie Couric, Christiane Amanpour -- and the (ongoing, Imperfect, Complicated) Triumph of Women in TV News

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Bucking the trend toward kneecap-length skirts, St. Laurent dropped his hems to mid-calf or longer. Some viewers called the move a mistake.

5397: 4573: 2741: 5949: 5435: 4409: 3394: 1871:...Yves St. Laurent...shocked us with his mid-calf skirts, which were about five inches longer than those shown by other Paris designers. 5332: 5202: 3768: 1586:...Dior based much of his Libre line on two classic items of clothing...the vareuse, or fishermen's smock,...and...the khaki bush jacket 871: 513: 3735: 3482: 5404:"All About Yves: As the incomparable Yves Saint Laurent celebrates his 40th anniversary as a couturier, the world salutes his genius." 2476: 667:

Many of his collections were positively received by both his fans and the press, such as the autumn 1966 collection, which introduced

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Ossie Clark...turns to the recent past for fawn jersey tailored suits with square shoulders, a forties-through-sixties-eyes look.

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black bow at the neck, a wide cummerbund of satin, and satin stripes down the rather wide pants. It is worn with...satin boots.

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familiarity. He was one of the last designers to give up big shoulder pads at the end of the eighties. After a disastrous 1987

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A favorite among his female clientele, Saint Laurent had numerous muses that inspired his work. Among them were: French model

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credits this move with Saint Laurent's wish to democratize fashion; others point out that other couture houses were preparing

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line. However, Saint Laurent, whose health had been precarious for years, became erratic under the pressure of designing two

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Saint Laurent emphasized suits that were squared at the top and tapering to the hem, like a triangle standing on its point.

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line to his assistants. Although the line remained popular with his fans, it was soon dismissed as "boring" by the press.

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In the late 1960's, watched the student riots in Paris and came up with the pants suit, which everyone is still wearing.

2226: 1007:, owner of many luxury brands including Yves Saint Laurent. He then donated them to China in a ceremony on 29 June 2013. 4352: 544:. Saint Laurent himself traced the origin of both his mental problems and his drug addictions to this time in hospital. 5939: 5551: 4044: 3374: 3353:'YSL's...mannequin...got ovations every time she sauntered out on the runway in another version of the spencer jacket'. 2570: 2542: 2514: 2043: 1981: 1748: 1720: 1664: 1607: 1151: 366:. Saint Laurent won first place. Subsequently, he was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in December. 4853: 2246: 815:, the half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat, who Saint Laurent considered his "twin sister"; French actress 5929: 5909: 5309: 5275: 4247: 3462: 3177: 2873: 2835: 2627: 2598: 2396: 2305: 2277: 2072: 1805: 1776: 1692: 1636: 1510: 1187: 1169: 1883: 1755:

Dior produces his new A line, a triangle widened from a small head and shoulders to a full pleated or stiffened hem.

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Paris: On the Right Bank, Saint Laurent can be seen in all his glory, worn by women of every age and nationality...

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The 1972 Compton Yearbook: A Summary and Interpretation of the Events of 1971 to Supplement Compton's Encyclopedia

835:, a Welsh-French model and niece of Loulou, who was the bride in his fashion shows in 1990–1994; jewelry designer 5919: 5428: 1281: 5989: 5924: 3646: 3285: 2325: 363: 5413: 1260: 382: 491: 4950: 1329: 811:, the daughter of a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish model, who became the jewelry designer for the brand; 5679: 5050: 779: 661: 4716:"Empress Farah Pahlavi attends the funeral services of fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent on June 5" 3315: 3047: 1992:...show the hobble first in its 'least exaggerated'...form before leading up to the 'extreme trendsetter'. 1988:

Yves Saint Laurent at Dior raises the skirt to the knees...and pulls the skirt in to a tight knee-band....

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In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a contest for young fashion designers organized by the

5914: 3424: 2493:...uyers are...acclaiming the Givenchy and St. Laurent showings as the great collections of the season... 2145: 630: 369:

During his stay in Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff, editor-in-chief of the French edition of

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fashionable styles being available to choose from in the market, as they were affordable and cheaper.

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The noise about Saint Laurent's big silhouette and folkloric look served to enhance his reputation...

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sketches by Yves Saint-Laurent are exhibited, along with childhood photos of the renowned designer.

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He developed his style to accommodate the changes in fashion during that period. He approached his

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The Left Bank look makes good now that Saint Laurent finds his independent fashion identity...

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show in New York City, which featured US$ 100,000 jeweled casual jackets only days after the

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with his two younger sisters, Michèle and Brigitte. Saint Laurent liked to create intricate

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Saint Laurent's first collection introduced a new silhouette, the wedge-shaped 'Trapeze'...

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Yves Saint Laurent shows his signature timeless classics in new and original versions...

1004: 5504: 5494: 5464: 5286: 2403:...Saint Laurent...launched the brassière dress, an early example of the cut-out theme. 1119:

1965: Appeared on 24 October as a "mystery guest" on the American television game show

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suit; Mounia, a model from Martinique who was the oft-used bride at his fashion shows;

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Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1986). "Bright Spring Fashion Takes a Brave New Direction".

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Saint Laurent's...ready-to-wear efforts have been slowly sagging season after season.

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In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living fashion designer to be honored by the

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look (1962), pea coats (1962), thigh-high boots (1963, via his chosen shoe designer

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Before the sale commenced, the Chinese government tried to stop the sale of two of

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Next fall's peasants, according to Saint Laurent, will wear boots and babushkas...

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Saint Laurent's rapeze line, backbone of his successful first collection for Dior.

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The presence of one designer — Yves Saint Laurent — overshadows the collections.

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In 1957, Saint Laurent found himself at age 21 the head designer of the House of

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The Beautiful Fall: Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris

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His autumn collection brings the Left Bank into the couture with total success.

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court the buyers and press by gently evolving a line collection by collection.

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with a solo exhibition. In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander of the

840: 812: 767: 733: 580: 377: 339:, where his designs quickly gained notice. Michel De Brunhoff, the editor of 312: 292: 43: 5807: 5759: 5703: 5687: 5655: 5631: 5349: 5199:"Yves Saint Laurent: A Moroccan Passion – Fashion – Abrams & Chronicle" 2946: 1659:. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. pp. 246, 247. 1095: 1019: 968: 908: 887: 618: 588: 457: 441: 426: 1602:. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. pp. 204–205. 5767: 5727: 5711: 4600:"Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent Foundation | champs-elysees-paris.org" 4548:"Yves Saint Laurent Devient Grand Officier de la Legion D'Honneur !" 932: 897: 844: 705: 700:

During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was considered one of Paris's "

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Saint Laurent was in the military for 20 days before the stress of

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Fashion Entrepreneurship: The Creation of the Global Fashion Business

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in Paris. The funeral attendees included the former Empress of Iran

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