153:
five years Graham sold over five hundred of the first commercially available portaledges, called Cliff
Dwellings, to climbers in California and Europe. Graham made his Cliff Dwellings using equipment that he carried in his truck, and would set up his shop in friend's garages and basements. Graham's frame tubes slotted into each other at their corners, which allowed the frame to collapse into the smallest bag possible. His minimal corner connections were an important innovation, but they also made the Cliff Dwelling vulnerable to structural failure under extreme forces of nature. For an expedition to Patagonia in 1979, Graham designed the Fortress, the first portaledge large enough for two people. This model was constructed with ballistic nylon, a fabric strong enough to deflect small pieces of falling ice and rock. During the same year Graham made, but never tested, a prototype of a Windshield: a tent, suspended below the Cliff Dwelling that would deflect upward winds away from the portaledge.
261:
and are lighter than the traditional block corners. The D4 portaledge brings many more innovations, including a newly engineered hybrid diameter tube design, which provides strength and rigidity without the need for a spreader bar, a new integrated haulsack/deployment system, and a completely simple but new concept for the stormfly—a single vertical zipped opening which enables the quickest deployment while also allowing full opening between storms. Also around this time, Middendorf introduces the D4 "bullet-joiner" which is a simple yet effective way to create a joint with overlapping tube strength, and rounded nose for quick self-assembling joints. The D4 has been produced in several sizes and besides being lighter and stronger, pack smaller (29" × 10" for the full size D4) than previous designs of portaledges.
173:, and then sometimes tossed off the summit for later retrieval. Mike Graham is credited with the first collapsible portaledge models available for retail purchase under the name of his company, Gramicci Products based in Ventura, California. The Gramicci Portaledge appeared in the very early 1980s and revolutionized multi-day big wall comfort. There were a few minor manufacturers that also dabbled in portaledge design in the early 1980s but could not get any traction in this niche market and soon faded from sight. In 1985 a small California-based company called Fish Products, founded by Russ Walling, started to manufacture one-person single portaledges. Other early Portaledge manufacturers were Fig, Frog (Ray Olsen), Lowe (never commercially available), and C&S Engineering.
72:
83:
270:
128:
suspension facilitates deployment, prevents the tipping that occurs with two-point hammocks, and has since been integrated into every significant big wall sleeping structure. Harding almost died during his 1968 attempt on Half Dome in
Yosemite after being trapped in a three-day storm, where his B.A.T Tent was filled with freezing rain and snow. Single-point hammocks allowed little sleep because they offered no weather resistance and crushed climber's shoulders.
2016:
91:
2004:
20:
2040:
2028:
99:
149:
this design was its nylon fly tent, which provided an enclosed shelter from the elements. Fly tents quickly became a standard element of portaledges. Jeff Lowe used the LURP on the first winter ascent of
Yosemite's Half Dome. Although the prototype was never sold to others, the brothers included it in their catalogue of climbing products, which circulated widely among climbers.
193:, prompting Middendorf to redesign the modern portaledge. A5 portaledges were constructed of highly weatherproof fabrics and engineered to be structurally stable and strong. The company produced three models: the Single, the Alpine Double, and the Cliff Cabana. The A5 portaledges were the first that could withstand the severe weather conditions in remote areas such as the
277:
In 2020, Middendorf developed the "Delta2p" portaledge, a cantilevered design. Named for its delta shape and 2-person design, this design solved many longstanding issues with portaledges, including improved ergonomics and increased stability. The rigid six-piece frame design with curved corners and
260:
introduced a new portaledge design, called the D4 Portaledge (82" Ă— 47", 16.5 pounds with haulsack, fly, and flypole). Instead of block corners, which has been the de facto standard since they were first introduced, the new D4 Portaledge has rounded curved tubing corners, which offer more rigidity
148:
In 1972, the climber brothers Gregg and Jeff Lowe designed the LURP, a highly innovative portaledge prototype. The design's collapsible frame allowed the Lowes to climb without the bulk of a cot. Every significant portaledge since the LURP has had a collapsible frame. Another pioneering feature of
127:
The multiple-day routes on El
Capitan pushed climbers to invent structures for sleeping. They began securing traditional two-point hammocks to cliff walls. Warren Harding invented the first hammock suspended from a central point, which he called a B.A.T. (Basically Absurd Technology) Tent. Central
152:
By the late 1970s, the term "portaledge", which combines the words "portable" and "ledge", had become the common name for the typology. The originator of the term remains unknown to this day. Mike Graham, a famous
American climber, founded his climbing gear company Gramicci in 1977. Over the next
144:
created the first portaledges by re-appropriating steel and canvas cots stolen from park lodges in
Yosemite. These were a vast improvement from single-point hammocks with regard to comfort, but they were not collapsible and weighed up to thirty kilograms (almost three times the weight of today's
216:(TNF) acquired the assets of A5 Adventures, including the A5 portaledge design, in 1998. Middendorf continued to steer the product for an additional two years at TNF before moving on to other pursuits outside of the climbing industry. The A5 portaledge designs were subsequently transferred to
278:"D4 bullet-joiners" enables quick assembly, and folds compactly. Six prototypes which were sent to Yosemite and the Himalaya for testing, and an additional 42 Delta2p's were crafted in Tasmania in 2020/2021 and distributed worldwide; these weighed 6.5
201:, enabling climbers to expand their horizons to the largest rock faces in the world. Middendorf himself used A5 portaledges on some of the hardest and remote big walls of the world, including during the first ascent of The Grand Voyage on the
189:-trained mechanical engineer, founded A5 Adventures. Previously, Middendorf and his companions Steve Bosque and Mike Corbett had nearly died due to portaledge failure during a three-day storm on the 2000-foot south face of
528:
1925:
228:, who continue to produce the A5 designs with many added features. As of 2016, there were four major commercial suppliers of portaledges, making the following popular models:
1920:
532:
141:
1972:
939:
145:
models). During this period climbers also used
Submarine Ledges, made from U.S. Navy aluminum tube cots that had been purchased from army surplus stores.
1984:
169:
campground that featured primitive metal framed bunks for the campers. These heavy cots were used on multi-day climbs on granite monoliths like
927:
912:
298:
protests, enabling them to remain aloft in trees for weeks, months, or sometimes years. They are also used in recreational tree camping.
1966:
1935:
961:
956:
94:
The 2017 D4 Portaledge re-invention supersedes the prior state of the art as published in the 1996 "Simply
Stormproof" sketch.
59:—covers the entire system to give protection in the event of bad weather. The first portaledges were created for climbing in
482:
922:
432:
571:
907:
892:
506:
47:. A fully assembled portaledge is a fabric-covered platform surrounded by a metal frame that hangs from a single
2044:
1905:
235:
Black
Diamond Double (84" Ă— 51", 28.4 pounds with fly and spreader bar, modified clone of the A5 Cliff Cabana).
457:
1835:
1212:
2066:
1207:
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1257:
241:
Metolius Single (84" Ă— 30", 18.5 pounds with fly, haulsack, similar to the A5 block corner design.).
238:
Runout
Customs Double (75" Ă— 42.25", 15 pounds with fly and haulsack, clone of the A5 Alpine Double).
205:
in 1992, the longest vertical big wall (1350m) in the world. The A5 Portaledge was sold worldwide.
1810:
1805:
951:
244:
Metolius Double (84" Ă— 45", 21.5 pounds with fly, haulsack and spreader bar, similar to A5 design).
112:
282:
kg. with haulsack and stormfly. Photos and open-source design notes available online: See also:
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Fish Single/Double (77" Ă— 42", 13/16 pounds with fly; rigid corner ledge design, steel frame).
1910:
1885:
1800:
1302:
1168:
529:"The Secret to Conquering the Toughest Climb in the Himalayas may lie in a Shed in Tasmania"
1915:
1900:
1890:
1141:
1107:
887:
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639:
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232:
Black Diamond Single (81" Ă— 31.5", 21.7 pounds with fly, modified clone of the A5 Single).
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341:
Olivares, Jonathan (March 2008). "Living Vertically: The Evolution of the Portaledge".
295:
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2020:
2003:
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36:
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82:
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52:
90:
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19:
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837:
55:
and has adjustable suspension straps. A separate cover—called a
1229:
1195:
165:
were non-collapsible cots purloined from Housekeeping Camp, a
1978:
1825:
1297:
1175:
1007:
98:
1979:
Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes
549:
225:
32:
78:
were used by climbers before portaledges were developed.
384:
1921:
Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
1973:
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
1926:
Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
1985:
Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
115:slept on natural ledges during his first ascent of
483:"TreeFool's list of Tree Camping Shelters (2019)"
2058:
39:who need to spend multiple days and nights on a
507:"Jonathan Olivares, History of the Portaledge"
565:
1967:International Federation of Sport Climbing
572:
558:
480:
340:
268:
97:
89:
86:Lying on the 1986-2016 portaledge design
81:
70:
18:
16:Deployable platform in big wall climbing
43:suspended from a sheer rock face while
2059:
455:
102:D4 Delta2p, the 2020 Middendorf design
553:
2027:
543:"Portaledge History Interview, 2017"
336:
334:
332:
330:
328:
2039:
458:"Portaledge Protesting In Tasmania"
13:
14:
2078:
1936:South African Climbing Federation
499:
433:"D4 Delta2P blocks cable logging"
325:
136:During the early 1970s, climbers
2038:
2026:
2015:
2014:
2002:
908:IFSC World Championships winners
1906:British Mountaineering Council
474:
449:
425:
401:
377:
353:
290:Portaledges have been used by
161:The first portaledges used in
1:
318:
285:
579:
208:
176:
156:
131:
106:
7:
301:
10:
2083:
456:Martin, Joy (2018-10-03).
409:"Big Wall Gear D4 Delta2p"
122:
66:
1998:
1959:
1896:Appalachian Mountain Club
1866:
1859:
1703:
1653:
1572:
1565:
1448:
1327:
1238:
998:
989:
982:
880:
805:
734:
699:
603:
594:
587:
1811:Mountain Safety Research
1806:Mountain Equipment Co-op
31:is a deployable hanging
1941:South Tyrol Alpine Club
1736:Eastern Mountain Sports
1602:Canadian Alpine Journal
1595:American Alpine Journal
858:Roof and tunnel hacking
481:TREEfool (2019-01-05).
313:Rock-climbing equipment
264:
251:
218:Black Diamond Equipment
1761:Holubar Mountaineering
1573:Magazines and journals
903:IFSC World Cup winners
274:
273:Delta2p (a D4 Design).
103:
95:
87:
79:
24:
1886:Alpine Club of Canada
1796:Marmot Mountain Works
1751:GERRY Mountain Sports
535:on February 22, 2017.
361:"Rescue on Half Dome"
272:
119:in Yosemite in 1958.
101:
93:
85:
74:
22:
1916:Club Alpino Italiano
1901:Austrian Alpine Club
1891:American Alpine Club
294:during anti-logging
35:system designed for
1911:Club Alpin Français
1285:Mountaineering boot
898:Piolet d'Or winners
2067:Climbing equipment
1931:German Alpine Club
296:civil disobedience
275:
203:Great Trango Tower
104:
96:
88:
80:
25:
2054:
2053:
1994:
1993:
1946:Swiss Alpine Club
1699:
1698:
1654:Non-fiction films
1630:Planinski Vestnik
1623:Himalayan Journal
1561:
1560:
1323:
1322:
952:Historical events
923:Eight-thousanders
876:
875:
730:
729:
462:The Climbing Zine
45:big wall climbing
2074:
2042:
2041:
2030:
2029:
2018:
2017:
2006:
1864:
1863:
1816:Outdoor Research
1570:
1569:
996:
995:
987:
986:
957:Grade milestones
766:Expedition style
601:
600:
592:
591:
574:
567:
560:
551:
550:
546:
536:
531:. Archived from
522:
520:
518:
509:. Archived from
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453:
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2075:
2073:
2072:
2071:
2057:
2056:
2055:
2050:
1990:
1955:
1855:
1721:Cascade Designs
1695:
1649:
1557:
1444:
1319:
1253:Abalakov thread
1234:
978:
872:
801:
726:
695:
679:Deep-water solo
583:
578:
541:
527:
516:
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496:
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393:
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378:
369:
367:
359:
358:
354:
339:
326:
321:
308:Bivouac shelter
304:
288:
279:
267:
258:John Middendorf
254:
211:
183:John Middendorf
179:
167:Yosemite Valley
159:
134:
125:
109:
69:
17:
12:
11:
5:
2080:
2070:
2069:
2052:
2051:
2049:
2048:
2036:
2024:
2012:
1999:
1996:
1995:
1992:
1991:
1989:
1988:
1982:
1976:
1970:
1963:
1961:
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1956:
1954:
1953:
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1913:
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1888:
1883:
1878:
1872:
1870:
1861:
1857:
1856:
1854:
1853:
1848:
1843:
1841:The North Face
1838:
1833:
1828:
1823:
1818:
1813:
1808:
1803:
1798:
1793:
1788:
1783:
1778:
1773:
1771:Sierra Designs
1768:
1763:
1758:
1753:
1748:
1746:Frostline Kits
1743:
1738:
1733:
1728:
1723:
1718:
1713:
1707:
1705:
1701:
1700:
1697:
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1686:
1679:
1672:
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1657:
1655:
1651:
1650:
1648:
1647:
1640:
1637:Rock & Ice
1633:
1626:
1619:
1612:
1605:
1598:
1591:
1584:
1581:Alpine Journal
1576:
1574:
1567:
1563:
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1559:
1558:
1556:
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1548:
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1503:
1498:
1493:
1488:
1483:
1478:
1471:Climbing route
1468:
1463:
1458:
1452:
1450:
1446:
1445:
1443:
1442:
1441:
1440:
1430:
1425:
1424:
1423:
1416:Simul-climbing
1413:
1408:
1407:
1406:
1401:
1391:
1390:
1389:
1384:
1379:
1369:
1364:
1359:
1357:Front pointing
1354:
1349:
1348:
1347:
1342:
1331:
1329:
1325:
1324:
1321:
1320:
1318:
1317:
1312:
1307:
1306:
1305:
1300:
1295:
1293:Avalanche cord
1287:
1282:
1277:
1276:
1275:
1265:
1260:
1258:Bottled oxygen
1255:
1250:
1244:
1242:
1236:
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980:
979:
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976:
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966:
965:
964:
959:
949:
948:
947:
942:
932:
931:
930:
925:
917:
916:
915:
913:IFSC victories
910:
905:
900:
890:
884:
882:
878:
877:
874:
873:
871:
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865:
860:
855:
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815:
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803:
802:
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787:
786:
785:
780:
770:
769:
768:
763:
753:
752:
751:
740:
738:
736:Mountaineering
732:
731:
728:
727:
725:
724:
719:
714:
709:
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693:
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548:
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538:
537:
524:
523:
513:on 21 May 2013
501:
500:External links
498:
495:
494:
473:
448:
424:
400:
385:"Bigwalls.net"
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323:
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222:Salt Lake City
214:The North Face
210:
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178:
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158:
155:
133:
130:
124:
121:
113:Warren Harding
108:
105:
68:
65:
41:climbing route
15:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
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2068:
2065:
2064:
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2023:
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2013:
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1960:International
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1860:Organizations
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1731:Early Winters
1729:
1727:
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1717:
1714:
1712:
1711:Black Diamond
1709:
1708:
1706:
1702:
1692:
1691:
1687:
1685:
1684:
1680:
1678:
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1676:The Dawn Wall
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1486:Climbing wall
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1461:Approach shoe
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1081:Climbing rope
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962:First ascents
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596:Rock climbing
593:
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582:
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484:
477:
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438:
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428:
414:
413:Big Wall Gear
410:
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390:
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366:
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206:
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174:
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168:
164:
154:
150:
146:
143:
142:Bruce Hawkins
139:
138:Billy Westbay
129:
120:
118:
114:
111:Rock climber
100:
92:
84:
77:
73:
64:
62:
58:
54:
50:
46:
42:
38:
37:rock climbers
34:
30:
23:A5 Portaledge
21:
2043:
2031:
2019:
2007:
1951:USA Climbing
1851:Wild Country
1846:Therm-a-Rest
1688:
1681:
1674:
1667:
1662:The Alpinist
1660:
1642:
1635:
1628:
1621:
1614:
1607:
1600:
1593:
1586:
1579:
1541:Campus board
1496:First ascent
1240:Ice and snow
1180:
1037:Belay device
888:Alpine clubs
848:Ropes course
761:Alpine style
533:the original
515:. Retrieved
511:the original
486:. Retrieved
476:
465:. Retrieved
461:
451:
440:. Retrieved
436:
427:
416:. Retrieved
412:
403:
392:. Retrieved
389:bigwalls.net
388:
379:
368:. Retrieved
365:bigwalls.net
364:
355:
346:
342:
292:tree-sitters
289:
276:
255:
212:
180:
160:
151:
147:
135:
126:
110:
56:
49:anchor point
28:
26:
2045:WikiProject
1881:Alpine Club
1876:Access Fund
1786:Lowe Alpine
1781:La Sportiva
1518:Fall factor
1411:Self-arrest
1387:Redpointing
1310:Snow anchor
1064:Boulder mat
1013:Daisy chain
983:Terminology
974:Terminology
853:Rooftopping
795:Hillwalking
783:Dry-tooling
749:Via ferrata
662:Traditional
640:Competition
621:Multi-pitch
604:Disciplines
1669:El Capitan
1433:Traversing
1382:Onsighting
1362:Glissading
1345:DĂĽlfersitz
1340:Australian
1303:Transeiver
1248:Alpenstock
1181:Portaledge
1169:Copperhead
1108:Descenders
1042:Auto belay
833:Commercial
813:Buildering
790:Scrambling
700:Rock types
691:Top roping
628:Bouldering
488:2019-09-10
467:2019-09-10
442:2020-05-21
437:abc.net.au
418:2020-05-23
394:2020-05-23
370:2013-04-14
319:References
286:Other uses
171:El Capitan
117:El Capitan
53:carabiners
29:portaledge
1821:Patagonia
1704:Companies
1690:Hard Grit
1683:Free Solo
1551:MoonBoard
1546:Hangboard
1532:Training
1481:Guidebook
1456:Ape index
1421:Rope team
1335:Abseiling
1280:Ice screw
1186:Quickdraw
1069:Carabiner
991:Equipment
969:Technique
935:Equipment
818:Canyoning
756:Himalayan
684:Rope solo
674:Free solo
256:In 2017,
209:1998–2016
199:Karakoram
195:Himalayas
191:Half Dome
181:In 1986,
177:1986–1998
157:1980–1986
132:1970–1980
107:1950–1960
2061:Category
2021:Category
1868:National
1766:JanSport
1741:Five Ten
1616:Desnivel
1609:Climbing
1588:Alpinist
1513:Exposure
1491:Chipping
1438:Tyrolean
1428:Spotting
1399:Crevasse
1377:Flashing
1367:Jumaring
1352:Belaying
1315:Snowshoe
1273:Ice tool
1263:Crampons
1113:Figure-8
1025:Ascender
893:Climbers
633:Highball
616:Big wall
581:Climbing
517:13 April
349:: 66–67.
302:See also
197:and the
187:Stanford
163:Yosemite
76:Hammocks
61:Yosemite
57:stormfly
2033:Commons
1987:(UIMLA)
1981:(UIAGM)
1372:Leading
1289:Rescue
1268:Ice axe
1218:Camalot
1152:Lanyard
1135:Skyhook
1120:Harness
1091:Dynamic
1074:Maillon
1047:Glasses
928:Everest
919:Deaths
838:Parkour
343:Abitare
123:1960–70
67:History
2009:Portal
1975:(UIAA)
1969:(IFSC)
1801:Millet
1791:Mammut
1756:Grivel
1726:Deuter
1644:Summit
1528:Guides
1523:Grades
1394:Rescue
1328:Action
1230:Tricam
1196:Grigri
1142:Hammer
1096:Static
1052:Gloves
1020:Anchor
940:Brands
744:Alpine
280:
1826:Petzl
1776:Kelty
1566:Media
1501:Pitch
1466:Clean
1449:Other
1298:RECCO
1225:Shoes
1213:SLCDs
1208:Sling
1176:Piton
1125:Hooks
1103:Chalk
1030:Croll
1008:Aider
945:Knots
881:Lists
863:Slide
828:Grass
823:Crane
806:Other
778:Mixed
707:Crack
657:Sport
645:Speed
588:Types
1716:CAMP
1506:Topo
1476:Beta
1404:Self
1201:Revo
1191:SLDs
1130:Fifi
1086:Cord
1059:Bolt
1000:Rock
868:Tree
843:Pole
722:Slab
717:Roof
712:Face
669:Solo
652:Free
519:2013
265:2020
252:2017
226:Utah
185:, a
140:and
51:via
33:tent
1836:REI
1831:Rab
1164:Nut
1157:PAC
1147:Hex
773:Ice
611:Aid
347:480
220:of
2063::
460:.
435:.
411:.
387:.
363:.
345:.
327:^
224:,
63:.
27:A
573:e
566:t
559:v
545:.
521:.
491:.
470:.
445:.
421:.
397:.
373:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
