Knowledge

Anchor (climbing)

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320: 175:. The leader and follower climb simultaneously with protection placed in between. When the two climbers advance using a running belay, the belay is almost as secure as using a belay device and anchors because if the leader falls, all the slack is already out of the rope and the follower acts as a counterweight to catch the fall. A running belay is used as a faster alternative to pitch-climbing when the risk, consequences, and likelihood of a leader fall are deemed to be acceptable. 359: 234:
belayer can, with a little effort then remove themselves from the system if required. It is essential that the belayer is attached to the anchor via the belay loop at the front of the harness. Attaching the harness of the belayer to the anchor via the back of the harness can cause the harness, when placed under strain, to constrict inwards elongating front to back, rather than side to side. This can result in a crushed pelvis and serious harm to the belayer.
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The principle of minimum swing is related to non-extension. The main anchor point in a well-constructed load-sharing anchor will neither extend nor swing in the event of an individual anchor failure. Reducing swing can be accomplished by minimizing the inner angle between individual anchors, and by
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A load-sharing anchor which does not extend in the event of an individual anchor failure has the property of non-extension. This important feature reduces the potential for shock-loading the remaining individual anchors during a failure. Non-extension can be accomplished by tying an appropriate knot
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belay stations, load-sharing anchors are often constructed from more than two individual anchors, which are rarely co-planar. In these cases, each individual anchor would feel a reduced force from the above values, but the best practice is to reduce the angle between the two outermost elements and
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When the rope comes from the climber to the belayer, the belayer is attached separately to an anchor. Often used when multi-pitching and the belayer is on a stance. Or when top roping and it is possible that if the climber falls the belayer will be pulled from the stance above the climber. The
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locations for the individual anchors would make an anchor redundant. This may mean using distinct boulders, crack systems, or objects for the placement location of each individual anchor. That being said, redundancy is not necessary in all climbing anchors. A living tree that is at least 15
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A load-sharing (or load-distributing) anchor is a system consisting of two or more individual anchors which join together at a main anchor point to form an anchoring system. This configuration is a way to introduce redundancy and increase strength, typically for a belay anchor. If assembled
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if the load force is distributed equally to each individual anchor. This is accomplished by adjusting the length of each connecting member (between the main anchor point and an individual anchor) while pulling the main anchor in the anticipated direction of the load. Anchors can be either
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The sum of forces on all the individual anchors will commonly exceed 100%, and in some cases, the force on an individual anchor will be greater than the load. This may seem contradictory when only the magnitudes are summed. However, if the forces on the individual anchors are
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If the V-angle is greater than 120 degrees, the load on each individual anchor will be greater than the load on the rope. Angles in excess of 120 degrees can create a hazardous situation that compromises the safety of the anchor, and should generally be avoided.
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correctly, the load will be distributed to each individual anchor, rather than placing all the load on a single anchor point. This decreases the chance that any single anchor point will fail, and, if a point does fail, the other(s) should still be able to hold.
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When the rope goes from the climber to the belayer. Most often used under controlled circumstances at climbing walls or when the climber doesn't have the weight advantage on the belayer during bottom-roped climbs. It is impossible to escape from the system.
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A natural anchor is a secure natural feature that can serve as a climbing anchor by attaching a sling, lanyard, or cordelette and a carabiner. Examples of natural anchors include trees, boulders, lodged chockstones, horns, icicles, and protrusions.
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can be any device or method for attaching a climber, rope, or load to a climbing surface—typically rock, ice, steep dirt, or a building—either permanently or temporarily. The intention of an anchor is case-specific but is usually for
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in the interconnecting cordelette, or by using individual slings for equalization. The principle of non-extension refers to the mitigation of shock-loading, rather than the elongation of materials under an increased load.
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pre-equalized, in which the anchor is statically equalized between anchor points during rigging, or self-equalizing, in which the anchor system dynamically adjusts tension between anchor points during use.
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centimetres (6 inches) in diameter will surely hold up several kilonewtons of force in any direction, and so is sufficient as being the sole anchor for any climbing anchor.
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increasing the number of individual anchors. An additional technique is to place a directional anchor a short distance below the main anchor point.
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The force on an anchor may be much greater than the weight of the climber. There are various mechanisms that contribute to excess force, including
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Anchors should be redundant, meaning that the overall anchor will still be sufficiently strong if any individual anchor were to fail. Selecting
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When the rope comes from the climber to an anchor. A hanging belay device may be used, although it is common in this instance to just use an
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or v-thread. Because of the uncertain holding power of ice protection, it is sometimes attached to the rope using a load-absorbing sling or
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At 120 degrees, each anchor bears a force equivalent to 100% of the original load. An angle this large should be avoided for safe climbing.
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When constructing a load-sharing anchor, it is important to take into consideration the angle formed between each individual anchor – the
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that can be used to construct an anchor, including natural protection such as boulders and trees, or artificial protection such as
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From this expression, the anchor forces can be calculated for selected angles in a two-element, symmetrical, load-sharing anchor.
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A large (> 15 cm or 6 in diameter) and living tree is a natural anchor that is not redundant but still very strong.
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In a load-sharing anchor, each individual anchor is connected to a main anchor point. The load-sharing anchor is said to be
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direction are equal to the load force, but there are lateral forces as well – which increase as the V-angle increases.
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At a V-angle of 30 degrees, each of the two anchors will bear a force of about 52% of the original load.
514: 1357: 1123: 53: 382:, the resultant force on the anchor system is equal to the load. In simpler terms, the forces in the 2182: 2045: 1407: 485: 1960: 1955: 1101: 2090: 1885: 1860: 1751: 1744: 1149: 1052: 1007: 588: 2000: 1910: 1553: 1306: 1162: 1094: 714: 125:
An artificial anchor consists of man-made climbing gear placed in the rock. Such gear includes
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Equalization of a load-sharing anchor, showing force distribution with a V-angle of 90°
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can be hand-driven into solid ice and are the equivalent of cams or nuts when
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To ensure proper redundancy and effectiveness of a load-sharing anchor, some
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anchor is used as a sole attachment to the cliff face, to support a belay or
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Stiffness (reduced elasticity) of the climbing rope and anchor materials
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This equation is a special case representation of the more general
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Depending on the surface being climbed, there are many types of
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Equipment used for attaching climber or a rope to a fixed point
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Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes
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anchor is used as a safeguard in the event of a fall while
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and fall restraint. Climbing anchors are also used for
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Natural protection – a basket hitch made from a
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Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
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International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
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Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
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Cam-action type anchors (including nuts, and hexes)
530: 501: 467: 133:used like chockstones, steel expansion bolts, and 562:At 90 degrees, each anchor bears 71% of the load. 559:At 60 degrees, each anchor bears 58% of the load. 556:At 45 degrees, each anchor bears 54% of the load. 2208: 195:, which provides a secure anchor to abseil on. 64:An artificial climbing anchor consisting of a 715: 246:. The belayer is totally free of the system. 191:can also be placed horizontally in snow as a 685:Graydon, Don, and Kurt Hansen, eds. (1997). 608:Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (2009). 2117:International Federation of Sport Climbing 722: 708: 275:improper slippage through the belay device 675:. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado. 614:(7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. 687:Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills 611:Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills 357: 318: 183:The snow picket is used as an anchor in 75: 59: 47: 574:avoid angles in excess of 120 degrees. 2209: 636:"Basic Principles of Climbing Anchors" 601: 703: 203:. Ice can also be protected using an 2177: 263:Direction of pull, or vector pulling 254: 2189: 673:How to Rock Climb: Climbing Anchors 13: 531:{\displaystyle \theta _{\text{V}}} 14: 2233: 2086:South African Climbing Federation 663:." Ratref. Web. 11 February 2012. 294: 249: 2188: 2176: 2165: 2164: 2152: 1058:IFSC World Championships winners 340: 156: 502:{\displaystyle F_{\text{load}}} 393:individual anchor is given by: 327: 285: 2056:British Mountaineering Council 653: 628: 459: 438: 353: 228: 1: 594: 306: 127:spring-loaded camming devices 120: 729: 278:A swinging climber, or load. 214: 7: 577: 219: 10: 2238: 509:is the overall load force. 160: 111: 2148: 2109: 2046:Appalachian Mountain Club 2016: 2009: 1853: 1803: 1722: 1715: 1598: 1477: 1388: 1148: 1139: 1132: 1030: 955: 884: 849: 753: 744: 737: 237: 2222:Mountaineering equipment 1961:Mountain Safety Research 1956:Mountain Equipment Co-op 661:Non-Load Sharing Anchors 140: 72:, equalized with slings. 43: 2091:South Tyrol Alpine Club 1886:Eastern Mountain Sports 1752:Canadian Alpine Journal 1745:American Alpine Journal 1008:Roof and tunnel hacking 640:Climbing Techniques.org 589:American death triangle 538:represents the V-angle. 303:are commonly observed. 56:, attached to a handle. 1911:Holubar Mountaineering 1723:Magazines and journals 1053:IFSC World Cup winners 532: 503: 469: 363: 324: 178: 85: 73: 57: 2036:Alpine Club of Canada 1946:Marmot Mountain Works 1901:GERRY Mountain Sports 544:anchor force equation 533: 504: 470: 361: 322: 79: 63: 51: 2066:Club Alpino Italiano 2051:Austrian Alpine Club 2041:American Alpine Club 515: 486: 400: 2061:Club Alpin Français 1435:Mountaineering boot 1048:Piolet d'Or winners 671:Long, John (1993). 2217:Climbing equipment 2081:German Alpine Club 528: 499: 465: 364: 325: 269:(if a fall occurs) 86: 74: 58: 2204: 2203: 2144: 2143: 2096:Swiss Alpine Club 1849: 1848: 1804:Non-fiction films 1780:Planinski Vestnik 1773:Himalayan Journal 1711: 1710: 1473: 1472: 1102:Historical events 1073:Eight-thousanders 1026: 1025: 880: 879: 621:978-0-89886-828-9 525: 496: 463: 448: 425: 410: 255:Force-multipliers 2229: 2192: 2191: 2180: 2179: 2168: 2167: 2156: 2014: 2013: 1966:Outdoor Research 1720: 1719: 1146: 1145: 1137: 1136: 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55: 50: 41: 39: 35: 31: 26: 22: 21:rock climbing 2193: 2181: 2169: 2157: 2101:USA Climbing 2001:Wild Country 1996:Therm-a-Rest 1838: 1831: 1824: 1817: 1812:The Alpinist 1810: 1792: 1785: 1778: 1771: 1764: 1757: 1750: 1743: 1736: 1729: 1691:Campus board 1646:First ascent 1390:Ice and snow 1187:Belay device 1169: 1038:Alpine clubs 998:Ropes course 911:Alpine style 686: 672: 655: 643:. Retrieved 639: 630: 609: 603: 568: 548: 541: 478: 390: 388: 383: 376: 372: 367: 365: 348: 344: 333: 331: 328:Equalization 312: 310: 298: 289: 286:Load-sharing 258: 241: 232: 223: 201:ice climbing 189:Snow pickets 182: 166: 144: 124: 115: 87: 32:, primarily 24: 18: 2195:WikiProject 2031:Alpine Club 2026:Access Fund 1936:Lowe Alpine 1931:La Sportiva 1668:Fall factor 1561:Self-arrest 1537:Redpointing 1460:Snow anchor 1214:Boulder mat 1163:Daisy chain 1133:Terminology 1124:Terminology 1003:Rooftopping 945:Hillwalking 933:Dry-tooling 899:Via ferrata 812:Traditional 790:Competition 771:Multi-pitch 754:Disciplines 354:Inner angle 313:independent 267:Fall factor 229:Semi-direct 82:snow picket 34:fall arrest 2211:Categories 1819:El Capitan 1583:Traversing 1532:Onsighting 1512:Glissading 1495:DĂĽlfersitz 1490:Australian 1453:Transeiver 1398:Alpenstock 1331:Portaledge 1319:Copperhead 1258:Descenders 1192:Auto belay 983:Commercial 963:Buildering 940:Scrambling 850:Rock types 841:Top roping 778:Bouldering 595:References 307:Redundancy 197:Ice screws 121:Artificial 90:protection 1971:Patagonia 1854:Companies 1840:Hard Grit 1833:Free Solo 1701:MoonBoard 1696:Hangboard 1682:Training 1631:Guidebook 1606:Ape index 1571:Rope team 1485:Abseiling 1430:Ice screw 1336:Quickdraw 1219:Carabiner 1141:Equipment 1119:Technique 1085:Equipment 968:Canyoning 906:Himalayan 834:Rope solo 824:Free solo 520:θ 443:θ 436:⁡ 334:equalized 215:Attaching 209:quickdraw 2171:Category 2018:National 1916:JanSport 1891:Five Ten 1766:Desnivel 1759:Climbing 1738:Alpinist 1663:Exposure 1641:Chipping 1588:Tyrolean 1578:Spotting 1549:Crevasse 1527:Flashing 1517:Jumaring 1502:Belaying 1465:Snowshoe 1423:Ice tool 1413:Crampons 1263:Figure-8 1175:Ascender 1043:Climbers 783:Highball 766:Big wall 731:Climbing 645:25 March 578:See also 384:vertical 220:Indirect 151:top rope 68:and two 38:hoisting 2183:Commons 2137:(UIMLA) 2131:(UIAGM) 1522:Leading 1439:Rescue 1418:Ice axe 1368:Camalot 1302:Lanyard 1285:Skyhook 1270:Harness 1241:Dynamic 1224:Maillon 1197:Glasses 1078:Everest 1069:Deaths 988:Parkour 479:where, 368:V-angle 193:deadman 112:Natural 2159:Portal 2125:(UIAA) 2119:(IFSC) 1951:Millet 1941:Mammut 1906:Grivel 1876:Deuter 1794:Summit 1678:Guides 1673:Grades 1544:Rescue 1478:Action 1380:Tricam 1346:Grigri 1292:Hammer 1246:Static 1202:Gloves 1170:Anchor 1090:Brands 894:Alpine 693:  679:  618:  409:anchor 238:Direct 135:pitons 106:pitons 25:anchor 1976:Petzl 1926:Kelty 1716:Media 1651:Pitch 1616:Clean 1599:Other 1448:RECCO 1375:Shoes 1363:SLCDs 1358:Sling 1326:Piton 1275:Hooks 1253:Chalk 1180:Croll 1158:Aider 1095:Knots 1031:Lists 1013:Slide 978:Grass 973:Crane 956:Other 928:Mixed 857:Crack 807:Sport 795:Speed 738:Types 584:Piton 147:belay 141:Belay 102:bolts 54:sling 44:Types 23:, an 1866:CAMP 1656:Topo 1626:Beta 1554:Self 1351:Revo 1341:SLDs 1280:Fifi 1236:Cord 1209:Bolt 1150:Rock 1018:Tree 993:Pole 872:Slab 867:Roof 862:Face 819:Solo 802:Free 691:ISBN 677:ISBN 647:2016 616:ISBN 495:load 424:load 391:each 98:nuts 94:cams 70:cams 1986:REI 1981:Rab 1314:Nut 1307:PAC 1297:Hex 923:Ice 761:Aid 569:In 433:cos 179:Ice 104:or 66:hex 19:In 2213:: 638:. 167:A 145:A 129:, 108:. 100:, 96:, 80:A 723:e 716:t 709:v 659:" 649:. 624:. 524:V 491:F 475:. 460:) 457:2 453:/ 447:V 439:( 430:2 420:F 414:= 405:F 84:.

Index

rock climbing
fall protection
fall arrest
hoisting

sling

hex
cams

snow picket
protection
cams
nuts
bolts
pitons
spring-loaded camming devices
aluminum nuts
pitons
belay
top rope
Simul climbing
running belay
lead climbing
mountaineering
Snow pickets
deadman
Ice screws
ice climbing
Abalakov thread

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