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240:
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weaving as the wages of labourers and other people working in agriculture suddenly rose. From 1782 to 1787, the
Industrial Revolution began in Britain, and fine cotton was produced locally. During the period of Company rule, the muslin industry declined due to various EIC policies, which supported imports of industrially manufactured textiles from Britain. A duty of 75 percent was imposed on export of cotton from Bengal. These measures ultimately led to the decline of muslin trade in Bengal. In 1811, Bengal was still a major exporter of cotton cloth to the
43:
19:
225:
35:
94:, authored by an anonymous Egyptian merchant around 2,000 years ago, it was appreciated by the Ancient Greeks and Romans, and the fabled fabric was the pinnacle of European fashion in the 18th and 19th century. Production ceased sometime in the late 19th century, as the Bengali muslin industry could no longer compete against cheaper British-made textiles.
570:, which makes up 90% of the world’s cotton today, gossypium arboreum produced threads that are stumpy and easily frayed. Craftspeople tamed the threads with a series of ingenious techniques developed over millennia. The fibers of the "phuti karpas" were not suitable for making the cheap cotton cloth using industrial machinery so it nearly vanished.
510:
suffered from severe natural calamities - especially heavy rainfall - and famine broke out. After the disaster, more emphasis was given on agriculture to reduce the effects of the famine. Tax was revoked on the exportation of grains. So, people became more interested in agricultural works than
343:. Bengali muslin was also traded throughout the Muslim world, from the Middle East to Southeast Asia. By 1580, some Portuguese traders settled at Dhaka and Sripur, from where they started exporting muslin, cotton and silk goods to Europe and Southeast Asia.
303:
and after the arrival of the
Portuguese in late 15th century, a small amount of Indian textiles started to travel directly to Europe. Bengal produced more than 50% of textiles of Indian subcontinent and around 40% of silks imported by the
414:
market dated from 1640, 20 types of muslins were found and the highest value found there is 1600 silver pence. As the business expanded, European companies became interested in founding their own factories in
566:) with their maple-like leaves pushed produce a single light-yellow flower twice a year, which give way to a snowy floret of cotton fibers. Unlike the long, slender strands produced by the Central American
451:
came to Bengal at the beginning of the eighteenth century. They purchased textiles through agents and their own officials. When they found the business very profitable, they also made settlements in Dhaka.
898:
290:
trades. During the Mughal era, the most important center of cotton production was Bengal, particularly around its capital city of Dhaka, leading to muslin being called "daka" in distant markets such as
1446:
83:
parts of the world. Of all the unique elements that must come together to manufacture muslin, none is as unique as the cotton, the famous "phuti karpas", scientifically known as
1439:
455:
Available statistics show that in 1747 the trade of Dhaka cotton goods (primarily Muslin), including local trade valued twenty-eight and a half lakh rupees.
202:, wrote about five or six varieties of fine cloths after visiting Bengal in the early fifteenth century; he mentions that Bengal muslin was highly priced in
757:
155:
of the 10th century, written on palm leaves, contain a complete description of the process of weaving muslin. Cloths including muslin were exchanged for
519:. However, Bengali exports declined over the course of the early 19th century, as British imports to Bengal increased, from 25% in 1811 to 93% in 1840.
499:
in
Britain meant that the Bengali muslin trade could no longer compete against British-made textiles in Indian markets, and eventually collapsed. The
495:
policies instituted by
European nations led to a collapse in foreign demand for muslin, further weakening the industry. By the 19th century, the
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666:
75:
and exported for many centuries. The region forms the eastern part of the historic region of Bengal. The muslin trade at one time made the
850:
1004:
613:
1216:
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from the sixteenth century onwards, large quantities of muslin was exported to the Middle East. Muslin turbans were favoured by the
228:
Bengali muslin was associated with the power and elegance of the Mughal court in India, as shown in this 1665 depiction of princes
1820:
1643:
487:
started to be sold in Bengal, which were sold at cheaper prices than the
Bengali muslin industry could afford. At the same time,
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1420:
1401:
1374:
1355:
1312:
1287:
1268:
1249:
1122:
1041:
770:
A favourite of the Romans, muslin was sought by merchants of the Roman empire and subsequently reached other parts of Europe.
958:
705:
90:. Dhaka muslin was immensely popular and sold across the globe for millennia. Muslin from "India" is mentioned in the book
577:
were woven in
Bangladesh by a group of researchers under a government grant project in 2020. As of 9 March 2022 the
1189:
1825:
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1815:
1173:
968:
807:
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826:
About the
Country Studies / Area Handbooks Program: Country Studies - Federal Research Division, Library of Congress
1113:
Chaudhuri, B. (1983). "Regional
Economy (1757–1857): Eastern India, II". In Kumar, Dharma; Desai, Meghnad (eds.).
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and South India. They introduced muslin into Europe, and eventually it became very popular. A Chinese voyager,
127:
91:
1509:
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in the 4th century BC, and is supposed to be the fabric worn by the figurines of the 2nd century BC found at
527:
1078:"Cotton textiles and the great divergence: Lancashire, India and shifting competitive advantage, 1600-1850"
539:
1835:
1789:
500:
828:
432:
1769:
880:
109:
for many centuries, as recorded in ancient hand-written and printed documents. Muslin finds mention in
1840:
1779:
818:
305:
582:
436:
259:
1393:
891:
1347:
1304:
1298:
1159:
1057:
873:
844:
427:
419:. The Dutch made their factory in Dhaka in 1663, the English in 1669 and the French in 1682.
362:
including high quality of muslins. In the seventeenth century, the
Portuguese trade declined.
1810:
1027:
1000:
496:
480:
1385:
1339:
1213:
927:
532:
503:, which killed a third of the Bengali population, also weakened the local muslin industry.
440:
637:
8:
815:
787:
387:
371:
180:
118:
1142:
1784:
1743:
671:
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335:(An Account of the East, from the Red Sea to China) that Bengal muslins were traded to
267:
85:
54:
1600:
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1308:
1283:
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Tree cotton: flowering and fruiting stem with life cycle of caterpillar and moth, by
476:
464:
355:
27:
42:
1605:
1547:
1165:
910:
869:
1220:
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Finance and
Society in 21st Century China: Chinese Culture Versus Western Markets
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This article incorporates text from this source, which is in the public domain.
615:
From Muslin To Museum: The Rise and Fall of Bengal's Textile Empire-1,2 & 3
448:
136:
114:
1804:
1738:
1580:
1552:
1537:
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832:
492:
370:
In the early seventeenth century, English and Dutch merchants arrived at the
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516:
472:
359:
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187:
76:
825:
802:
1562:
1388:
How India Clothed the World: The World of South Asian Textiles, 1500–1850
1161:
How India Clothed the World: The World of South Asian Textiles, 1500-1850
229:
110:
18:
1759:
1431:
324:
164:
152:
80:
72:
1590:
1557:
1364:
1064:
1033:
782:
379:
296:
252:
244:
68:
46:
Shawl made of Muslin in the 18th century, woven in Sonargaon, Dhaka.
1661:
1653:
1638:
1623:
1572:
1147:. Calcutta: G.H. Huttmann, Military Orphan Press. pp. 301–307.
667:"Textile hub Bangladesh revives muslin, the forgotten elite fabric"
581:
has reached 731. The exceptional muslin has secured recognition of
512:
411:
391:
336:
321:
295:. Bengal also exported cotton and silk textiles to markets such as
248:
168:
148:
1367:
The Spinning World: A Global History of Cotton Textiles, 1200–1850
543:
Tree cotton cultivated in a greenhouse in Botanical Garden of the
358:
started trading textiles from the Indian subcontinent through the
1682:
1666:
1494:
1474:
551:
The Dhaka muslin begins with plants grown along the banks of the
395:
375:
199:
191:
176:
106:
60:
272:
The Textile Manufactures and the Costumes of the People of India
1733:
1702:
1697:
1692:
1633:
1595:
1531:
1499:
1484:
488:
484:
403:
399:
195:
102:
57:
50:
23:
1157:
1722:
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416:
407:
340:
300:
287:
224:
203:
172:
156:
144:
140:
64:
1383:
63:
of plain weave, was historically hand woven in the areas of
1727:
1518:
1413:
Clothing Through American History: The British Colonial Era
383:
309:
283:
132:
34:
463:
During the second half of 18th century, Bengal gradually
1117:. Vol. 2. Cambridge University Press. p. 299.
952:
950:
139:
merchants trading between India and the Red Sea port of
699:
697:
695:
693:
1365:
Giorgio Riello; Prasannan Parthasarathi, eds. (2011).
913:, vol. 1, Macmillan Reference USA, 2006, pp. 237-240,
947:
1342:
European Commercial Enterprise in Pre-Colonial India
1300:
The Rise of Islam and the Bengal Frontier, 1204–1760
846:
The Rise of Islam and the Bengal Frontier, 1204-1760
690:
483:meant that British-made goods produced with Indian
1144:A Sketch of the Topography and Statistics of Dacca
1087:. Department of Economics, University of Warwick.
994:
992:
685:Muslin can't be woven without Phuti carpus cotton.
398:. They traded textile goods including muslin from
333:Suma Oriental que trata do Mar Roxo até aos Chins
1802:
1076:Broadberry, Stephen; Gupta, Bishnupriya (2005).
920:
743:
741:
739:
630:
79:and what is now Bangladesh into one of the most
1411:Staples, Kathleen A.; Shaw, Madelyn C. (2013).
1242:Dacca : Eastern Bengal District Gazetteers
1190:"GI recognition - Muslin belongs to Bangladesh"
1136:
1134:
1075:
989:
783:"Processes in the manufacture of Dacca muslins"
282:, Bengal was a center of the worldwide muslin,
801:Lawrence B. Lesser. "Historical Perspective".
1447:
1384:Giorgio Riello; Tirthankar Roy, eds. (2009).
1326:, vol. 67, AramcoWorld, pp. 26–32,
1282:. Cambridge University Press. pp. 281–.
1278:Asher, Catherine B.; Talbot, Cynthia (2006).
814:(James Heitzman and Robert Worden, editors).
736:
545:Botanic Garden of the Jagiellonian University
264:Processes in the Manufacture of Dacca Muslins
1131:
555:and its tributaries, which form the immense
1410:
1303:. University of California Press. pp.
1277:
167:-horn at that time. Muslin was traded from
1454:
1440:
611:
1112:
1085:International Institute of Social History
863:
183:before European merchants came to India.
1461:
538:
526:
426:
258:
238:
223:
194:and gold coins to buy the material from
41:
33:
17:
1346:. Cambridge University Press. pp.
1337:
1158:Giorgio Riello, Tirthankar Roy (2009).
1115:The Cambridge Economic History of India
956:
747:
703:
1803:
1140:
1094:from the original on 10 September 2016
1025:
885:
365:
131:written between 40 and 70 AD mentions
1435:
1321:
1296:
1239:
1069:
1003:. Daffodil International University.
435:in a translucent muslin dress at the
422:
1258:
1050:
1001:"History of Muslin Fabrics of Dhaka"
748:Naushad, Naveed (15 December 2015).
320:In the early sixteenth century, the
315:
1029:The Process of Economic Development
255:in a translucent muslin gown c.1627
38:Muslin saree passing through a ring
13:
1233:
998:
963:. V&A Publishing. p. 12.
936:from the original on 25 April 2020
612:Ahmedullah, M (21 February 2014),
14:
1852:
1322:Islam, Khademul (May–June 2016),
1007:from the original on 7 April 2016
907:History of World Trade Since 1450
795:
585:(GI) as a product of Bangladesh.
1508:
659:
1207:
1182:
1151:
1106:
1019:
960:Muslin (Sonia Ashmore), Page 12
760:from the original on 4 May 2017
707:Muslin (Sonia Ashmore), Page 11
648:from the original on 4 May 2015
1821:Economic history of Bangladesh
1775:Textile industry in Bangladesh
1259:Khan, Muhammad Mojlum (2013).
1214:Legendary Muslin revived again
859:University of California Press
843:Richard Maxwell Eaton (1996),
837:
775:
595:Textile industry in Bangladesh
410:. In an official inventory of
128:Periplus of the Erythraean Sea
92:Periplus of the Erythraean Sea
1:
1261:The Muslim Heritage of Bengal
623:
559:. The famous "phuti karpas" (
209:
22:A woman wearing fine Bengali
354:. In the sixteenth century,
190:prized muslin highly, using
7:
1790:Shantipur Handloom Industry
1369:. Oxford University Press.
999:Sarker, Md. Fouad Hossain.
804:A Country Study: Bangladesh
588:
501:Great Bengal famine of 1770
390:travelling on land through
10:
1857:
1770:Textile arts of Bangladesh
1415:. ABC-CLIO. pp. 96–.
1297:Eaton, Richard M. (1996).
1026:Cypher, James M. (2014) .
881:Cambridge University Press
522:
471:(EIC), particularly after
458:
213:
143:(in present-day Eritrea),
97:
1826:Economic history of India
1780:Textile industry in India
1752:
1711:
1675:
1652:
1614:
1571:
1517:
1506:
1467:
1324:Our Story of Dhaka Muslin
917:. Retrieved 3 August 2017
819:Federal Research Division
1831:Economy of British India
1816:Cotton industry in India
1224:Textile Today Bangladesh
915:World History in Context
901:18 November 2022 at the
605:
179:– to different parts of
957:Ashmore, Sonia (2012).
704:Ashmore, Sonia (2012).
642:Encyclopædia Britannica
583:Geographical Indication
475:'s victory at the 1757
234:Sulaiman Shikoh Nimbate
1765:Muslin trade in Bengal
1244:. Delhi: LOGOS Press.
1219:2 January 2022 at the
1141:Taylor, James (1840).
1056:Junie T. Tong (2016),
710:. V&A Publishing.
618:, Alochonaa (Dialogue)
548:
536:
465:came under the control
444:
331:mentioned in his book
275:
256:
247:holding a portrait of
236:
117:envoy to the court of
47:
39:
31:
542:
530:
497:Industrial Revolution
430:
262:
242:
227:
214:Further information:
171:– an ancient port of
45:
37:
21:
1462:Bangladeshi clothing
1338:Prakash, Om (1998).
1240:Allen, B.C. (2009).
853:4 April 2023 at the
810:11 July 2015 at the
533:Maria Sibylla Merian
437:château de Malmaison
378:. At the same time,
1280:India Before Europe
1263:. Kube Publishing.
816:Library of Congress
788:Library of Congress
506:From 1787 to 1788,
433:Joséphine Bonaparte
388:Indian subcontinent
372:Indian subcontinent
366:Seventeenth century
181:Indian subcontinent
119:Chandragupta Maurya
1836:Heritage of Bengal
1785:Dhaka Fashion Week
1744:Woodblock printing
1392:. BRILL. pp.
821:(September 1988).
750:"The Muslin Story"
672:Al Jazeera English
568:gossypium hirsutum
562:Gossypium arboreum
549:
547:in KrakĂłw, Poland.
537:
469:East India Company
445:
423:Eighteenth century
276:
268:John Forbes Watson
257:
237:
86:Gossypium arboreum
48:
40:
32:
1798:
1797:
1422:978-0-313-08460-7
1403:978-90-04-17653-9
1376:978-0-19-969616-1
1357:978-0-521-25758-9
1314:978-0-520-20507-9
1289:978-0-521-80904-7
1270:978-1-84774-062-5
1251:978-81-7268-194-4
1194:Daily Prothom Alo
1124:978-0-521-22802-2
1043:978-0-415-64327-6
977:on 16 August 2016
875:The Mughal Empire
724:on 16 August 2016
600:History of Bengal
477:Battle of Plassey
316:Sixteenth century
105:has manufactured
28:Francesco Renaldi
1848:
1841:History of Dhaka
1548:Murshidabad silk
1512:
1456:
1449:
1442:
1433:
1432:
1426:
1407:
1391:
1380:
1361:
1345:
1334:
1318:
1293:
1274:
1255:
1227:
1226:, 2 January 2021
1211:
1205:
1204:
1202:
1200:
1186:
1180:
1179:
1166:Brill Publishers
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1148:
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1128:
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1104:
1103:
1101:
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1073:
1067:
1054:
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1047:
1032:(4th ed.).
1023:
1017:
1016:
1014:
1012:
996:
987:
986:
984:
982:
973:. Archived from
954:
945:
944:
943:
941:
924:
918:
911:John J. McCusker
889:
883:
870:John F. Richards
867:
861:
841:
835:
831:10 July 2012 at
799:
793:
792:
779:
773:
772:
767:
765:
745:
734:
733:
731:
729:
720:. Archived from
701:
688:
687:
682:
680:
663:
657:
656:
655:
653:
634:
619:
431:French Empresse
374:sailing via the
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1855:
1851:
1850:
1849:
1847:
1846:
1845:
1801:
1800:
1799:
1794:
1748:
1716:
1714:
1707:
1671:
1648:
1610:
1567:
1513:
1504:
1463:
1460:
1423:
1404:
1377:
1358:
1315:
1290:
1271:
1252:
1236:
1234:Further reading
1231:
1230:
1221:Wayback Machine
1212:
1208:
1198:
1196:
1188:
1187:
1183:
1176:
1168:. p. 174.
1156:
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1125:
1111:
1107:
1097:
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1080:
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1024:
1020:
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1008:
997:
990:
980:
978:
971:
955:
948:
939:
937:
932:, Banglapedia,
926:
925:
921:
903:Wayback Machine
890:
886:
868:
864:
855:Wayback Machine
842:
838:
812:Wayback Machine
800:
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781:
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691:
678:
676:
665:
664:
660:
651:
649:
636:
635:
631:
626:
608:
591:
525:
479:. Coming under
467:of the British
461:
441:François Gérard
425:
382:merchants from
368:
318:
312:, for example.
274:. London, 1866.
243:Mughal Empress
222:
212:
123:Chandraketugarh
100:
12:
11:
5:
1854:
1844:
1843:
1838:
1833:
1828:
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1560:
1555:
1550:
1545:
1543:Handloom saree
1540:
1534:
1529:
1527:Baluchari sari
1523:
1521:
1515:
1514:
1507:
1505:
1503:
1502:
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1181:
1174:
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1130:
1123:
1105:
1068:
1049:
1042:
1036:. p. 97.
1018:
988:
969:
946:
929:The Portuguese
919:
896:Empire, Mughal
884:
862:
836:
794:
774:
754:The Daily Star
735:
716:
689:
675:. 9 March 2022
658:
628:
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587:
524:
521:
460:
457:
449:Ostend Company
424:
421:
367:
364:
317:
314:
211:
208:
206:at that time.
113:’ writings, a
99:
96:
26:, c. 1789, by
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
1853:
1842:
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1742:
1740:
1739:Grameen check
1737:
1735:
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1726:
1724:
1721:
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1710:
1704:
1701:
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1811:Bengal Subah
1764:
1429:
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1387:
1366:
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1279:
1260:
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1223:
1209:
1197:. Retrieved
1193:
1184:
1160:
1153:
1143:
1114:
1108:
1096:. Retrieved
1084:
1071:
1058:
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1028:
1021:
1009:. Retrieved
979:. Retrieved
975:the original
959:
938:, retrieved
928:
922:
914:
909:, edited by
906:
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865:
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706:
684:
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670:
661:
650:, retrieved
641:
632:
614:
579:thread count
572:
560:
557:Ganges Delta
553:Meghna River
550:
517:Indian Ocean
505:
481:Company rule
473:Robert Clive
462:
454:
446:
386:came to the
369:
360:Persian Gulf
348:Ottoman rule
345:
332:
319:
293:Central Asia
277:
271:
263:
216:Bengal Subah
185:
126:
101:
84:
77:Ganges delta
55:Phuti carpus
49:
15:
1563:Tussar silk
280:Mughal rule
230:Dara Shikoh
175:located in
111:Megasthenes
1805:Categories
1760:Jute trade
1715:and design
1098:5 December
1061:, page 151
892:Om Prakash
877:, page 202
848:, page 202
624:References
491:and other
356:Portuguese
329:Tomé Pires
325:apothecary
322:Portuguese
210:Mughal era
165:rhinoceros
153:Charyapada
81:prosperous
73:Bangladesh
1713:Stitching
1558:Tant sari
1332:895830331
1199:2 January
1065:CRC Press
1034:Routledge
297:Indonesia
253:Bishandas
245:Nur Jahan
69:Sonargaon
1676:Footwear
1662:Churidar
1654:Trousers
1639:Sherwani
1624:Angarkha
1573:Headgear
1217:Archived
1089:Archived
1005:Archived
934:archived
899:Archived
872:(1995),
851:Archived
829:Archived
808:Archived
758:Archived
646:archived
638:"Muslin"
589:See also
515:and the
513:Americas
412:Istanbul
392:Qandahar
380:Armenian
352:Ottomans
337:Thailand
249:Jahangir
169:Barygaza
149:Ethiopia
107:textiles
1683:Chappal
1667:Pajamas
1536:Dhakai
1495:Dupatta
1475:Jamdani
1468:Clothes
1011:24 July
981:21 July
764:4 April
728:21 July
679:7 April
652:21 July
573:Muslin
523:Revival
489:tariffs
459:Decline
396:Isfahan
376:Red Sea
346:During
200:Ma Huan
192:bullion
177:Gujarat
98:Origins
1753:Others
1734:Kantha
1730:Fabric
1703:Sandal
1698:Paduka
1693:Mojari
1634:Kameez
1596:Turban
1532:Dhakai
1500:Gamcha
1485:Muslin
1419:
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1373:
1354:
1330:
1311:
1286:
1267:
1248:
1172:
1121:
1040:
967:
940:21 May
714:
575:sarees
485:cotton
404:Aleppo
400:Bengal
278:Under
266:, in:
196:Deccan
188:Romans
151:. The
125:. The
103:Bengal
61:fabric
58:cotton
51:Muslin
24:muslin
1723:Batik
1688:Jutti
1644:Taaga
1629:Kurta
1606:Topor
1601:Sehra
1586:Pagri
1480:Khadi
1092:(PDF)
1081:(PDF)
606:Notes
508:Dhaka
439:, by
417:Dhaka
408:Syria
341:China
308:from
306:Dutch
301:Japan
288:pearl
204:China
173:India
157:ivory
145:Egypt
141:Aduli
137:Greek
115:Greek
65:Dhaka
1728:Jute
1616:Tops
1519:Sari
1417:ISBN
1398:ISBN
1371:ISBN
1352:ISBN
1328:OCLC
1309:ISBN
1305:202–
1284:ISBN
1265:ISBN
1246:ISBN
1201:2021
1170:ISBN
1119:ISBN
1100:2016
1038:ISBN
1013:2016
983:2016
965:ISBN
942:2018
766:2017
730:2016
712:ISBN
681:2024
654:2016
447:The
394:and
384:Iran
339:and
310:Asia
299:and
286:and
284:silk
232:and
218:and
186:The
163:and
147:and
135:and
133:Arab
67:and
53:, a
1396:–.
1394:219
1350:–.
1348:202
905:",
894:, "
406:of
402:to
251:by
71:in
1807::
1307:.
1192:.
1164:.
1133:^
1083:.
1063:,
991:^
949:^
879:,
857:,
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768:.
756:.
752:.
738:^
692:^
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669:.
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640:,
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1127:.
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1046:.
1015:.
985:.
791:.
732:.
535:.
443:.
30:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
