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Khalili Collection of Swedish Textiles

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dove-tail tapestry, whose designs are more realistic and naturalistic. Whereas stylised animals within octagons are a common motif for the other textiles, dove-tail tapestries more often have a naturalistic animal or bird within a circle. A textile creator would rarely venture beyond her own village, so her imagery would have been drawn from nature and from local superstition and religion. Another influence was textile art from other cultures. For thousands of years, textiles had been traded across Europe and Asia, and pictorial designs from the Near East are known to have been imported to Sweden by the fourteenth or fifteenth century.
331: 314: 156: 121: 112:, dating in the main from a hundred-year period between the mid-18th and mid-19th centuries. The majority of the pieces in the collection were made for wedding ceremonies in the region. While they played a part in the ceremonies, they were also a reflection of the artistry and skill of the weaver. Their designs often consist of symbolic illustrations of fertility and long life. Khalili writes that he created the collection because of the tendency of art historians and the public to undervalue art whose creators are anonymous. 1142: 339:
have a design constructed around a central motif. Very common motifs are people, animals or birds within octagons or circles, and most permutations of creature and geometric shape are represented in the collection. Five objects in the collection depict prancing, open-mouthed deer within octagons, which is the most prized design for Swedish textiles. One particularly elaborate bed covering has six octagons each containing pictorial scenes of people or horses. An interlocked tapestry depicts
1233: 202:(various spellings): double interlocked tapestry, in which the weft threads interlock on the reverse of the textile, was a common technique in southern Sweden. Designs of these tapestries were typically geometrical, including stars, rosettes and octagons. Zig-zag patterns representing lightning, in a variety of colours and widths, were commonly used as both a motif and a background pattern. Interlocked tapestries mostly used 474: 1223: 352:, red lions, and naturalistic floral arrangements. Ascending floral lattice designs are another feature that occurs across multiple objects. This design likely reflects Italian influence. An interlaced knots motif, found it many kinds of decorative art, is exemplified by embroidered works and a knotted-pile cover in the collection. This knotted-pile weaving is thought to originate in 137:
than previously. The women of land-owning families, with the skills for making clothes and furnishings, thus had the leisure time and materials to make textiles with a focus on beauty rather than for use as covering. These textiles would usually be kept in a wooden chest, only brought out for special
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The hundred art works in Khalili collection show the variety as well as the skill of Swedish textile artists. The collection is particularly strong in interlocked tapestries and dove-tail tapestries, but also has examples of the other techniques. Some of the designs are repeating patterns while some
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was an important tradition, and for each wedding the bride would demonstrate her skill by creating unique textiles with symbolic decorations. From the mid-nineteenth century onwards, the collections were mostly sold off and put to everyday use, subjecting them to wear. Only a few thousand works from
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assembled, conserved, published and exhibited by Khalili, each of which is considered among the most important in its field. In 2008 it was described as "the only extensive collection of Swedish flatweaves outside the country". The collection consists mostly of textile panels, cushion and bed covers
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The textiles use variations of a set of design motifs, including hunt scenes, stars, and geometrical shapes. Despite this, each textile is different, varying by colour, size, positioning and combination of the motifs. Designs show a lot of similarity across the different techniques, apart from
238:, the pattern is produced by an additional set of weft threads. This is an old technique, dating back to Viking times, and was often used for the backs of textiles whose fronts were created with interlocked tapestry. There are several distinct styles of extra-weft patterning, including 367:. It depicts pairs of birds facing a tree, under the wings of a great bird, and is the only known Eastern rug with this design. Multiple Swedish textiles copied this design, possibly copying this specific rug, and one such cross-stitch embroidery is in the Khalili Collection. 185:
households from the mid sixteenth century to the mid eighteenth. Many tapestries from this era have been lost in war and in fires. These tapestries are usually pictorial, depicting people, animals or flowers on a dark background. Religious scenes, especially the
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Handwoven textile art flourished in Scania from the mid-eighteenth to the mid-nineteenth century. Employment in Scania was mainly in farming, and the early eighteenth century was a time of relative peace and prosperity for farmers, with far fewer
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The creators of these works were exclusively women: farmers' wives, other female members of the family, or occasionally maids. Some works bear initials, but the identity of the creators is unknown. The creation of a
508: 284:) were common as cushion or bed covers from the eighteenth century onwards. Coloured wool was wrapped around pairs of warp threads to create the pile surface, either by being cut or left as loops. 1062: 224:: simple weaves with little or no pattern were normally used for parts of fabrics, including backings or foundations to which more decorative layers would be added. 348:
Dove-tail tapestries tend to be more pictorial and realistic than the other types of textiles, and this is reflected in the collection by tapestries depicting the
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Although the collection is not on permanent public display, public exhibitions in three countries have drawn exclusively from the collection.
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Interlocked tapestry, (Two Reindeer in Octagons with People) from Ingelstads or Herrestads district, Scania, first half of the 19th century
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Interlocked tapestry (Women and Birds in Stars and Hearts) from Ingelstads district, Scania, first half of the 19th century
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is a private collection of textile art assembled by the British-Iranian scholar, collector and philanthropist
30: 1257: 1116: 379:"Swedish Textile Art: The Khalili Collection" February–March 1996, IK Foundation, Pildammarnas Vattentorn, 317:
Dove-tail tapestry (Flowers, Birds and People) from Torna district, Scania, second half of the 18th century
1156: 1141: 930:. Nour Foundation in association with Textile & Art Publications and IK Foundation. pp. 17–225. 1169: 1042: 957:. Nour Foundation in association with Textile & Art Publications and IK Foundation. pp. 9–15. 72: 987:. Nour Foundation in association with Textile & Art Publications and IK Foundation. pp. 7–8. 1267: 953:
Franses, Michael (1996). "The International Appeal of Swedish Textile Art". In Hansen, Viveka (ed.).
393:"A Monument to Love: Swedish Marriage Textiles from the Khalili Collection" September–October 2003, 985:
Swedish textile art : traditional marriage weavings from Scania : the Khalili collection
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Swedish textile art : traditional marriage weavings from Scania : the Khalili collection
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Swedish textile art : traditional marriage weavings from Scania : the Khalili collection
539: 1055: 515:. United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization. 16 April 2019. Archived from 138:
occasions or for airing. Wealthy farms would often have a dedicated chamber for these chests.
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Hansen, Viveka (1996). "Traditional Marriage Weavings from Scania". In Hansen, Viveka (ed.).
345:(mythological horses with horns) and a linen cloth with extra-weft patterning depicts lions. 99:. The collection was built up over a period of 25 years and contains 100 works. It is one of 1236: 477: This article incorporates text from this source, which is licensed under CC-BY-SA 3.0. 363:, central Sweden in 1925. It is believed to have come from fourteenth- or fifteenth-century 330: 313: 155: 120: 8: 1088: 386:"Textiles de Scanie des XVIII et XIX Siècles dans la Collection Khalili" March–May 2000, 100: 456: 1208: 1164: 1022: 998: 988: 968: 958: 941: 931: 394: 293:("wool embroidery"), which have an embroidered pattern on a plain background, or 173:("Flemish weave"): these are named for the joins between areas of colour, where 1175: 1078: 980: 353: 281: 96: 48: 1251: 1002: 972: 945: 178: 174: 349: 300: 187: 125: 36: 360: 1047: 364: 206:
for the warp threads and wool for the weft, with other fibres like
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Carriage Cushion Cover (Two Lions in Floral Roundels), Scania,
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The Marby Rug is a knotted-pile carpet found in a church in
599: 309:("twist-stitch") which involve a fully-embroidered surface. 211: 207: 190:, were common subjects. Hunting was another common subject. 758: 881: 879: 877: 862: 852: 850: 848: 846: 844: 831: 829: 816: 814: 777: 775: 773: 748: 746: 697: 695: 682: 680: 667: 665: 640: 638: 491: 489: 487: 485: 483: 577: 575: 562: 560: 234:, weft threads do not turn at the edge of a motif. In 903: 891: 874: 841: 826: 811: 799: 787: 770: 743: 731: 719: 707: 692: 677: 662: 650: 635: 623: 611: 480: 587: 572: 557: 177:threads of different areas connect around the same 124:Dove-tail tapestry (birds and vines) from Torna or 1249: 1021:. London: Penguin Random House. pp. 93–98. 181:thread. This technique was common among wealthy 1019:The Art of Peace: Eight collections, one vision 147:this period survive intact to the present day. 116:Background: the high era of Swedish textile art 1063: 340: 304: 294: 288: 275: 263: 257: 251: 245: 239: 197: 168: 53:Dror Elkvity (curator and chief co-ordinator) 983:(1996). "Preface". In Hansen, Viveka (ed.). 1070: 1056: 325: 29: 24:The Khalili Collection of Swedish Textiles 150: 1077: 329: 312: 154: 119: 1016: 979: 952: 909: 897: 885: 856: 835: 644: 566: 495: 397:Art Gallery, Boston, Massachusetts, USA 1250: 1232: 1186:Exhibitions drawn from the collections 925: 868: 820: 805: 793: 781: 764: 752: 737: 725: 713: 701: 686: 671: 656: 629: 617: 605: 593: 581: 93:Khalili Collection of Swedish Textiles 1051: 537: 1222: 451: 449: 447: 445: 443: 441: 13: 1165:Falnama § The Khalili Falnama 1010: 14: 1279: 1036: 438: 16:Private collection of textile art 1231: 1221: 1140: 472: 421:"Swedish Textiles (1700 – 1900)" 1102:Hajj and the Arts of Pilgrimage 55:Viveka Hansen (special advisor) 540:"The collection is a symphony" 538:Moore, Susan (17 March 2008). 531: 501: 413: 370: 1: 401: 7: 287:Embroideries: these can be 128:, Scania, late 18th century 10: 1284: 1170:Khalili Imperial Garniture 1150:Objects in the collections 919: 232:continuous weft patterning 218:used much less frequently. 1217: 1201: 1185: 1149: 1138: 1087: 67: 59: 44: 28: 23: 406: 1089:The Khalili Collections 1017:Khalili, David (2023). 457:"The Eight Collections" 388:Swedish Cultural Centre 356:because of its design. 326:Works in the collection 1263:Textile arts of Sweden 608:, pp. 21, 28, 36. 341: 335: 318: 305: 295: 289: 276: 264: 258: 252: 246: 240: 198: 169: 160: 151:Techniques and designs 129: 1193:Empire of the Sultans 1160:§ Khalili folios 333: 316: 236:extra-weft patterning 158: 123: 1132:Enamels of the World 1080:Nasser David Khalili 767:, pp. 153, 166. 194:Interlocked tapestry 1258:Khalili Collections 425:Khalili Collections 272:Knotted-pile weaves 108:region of southern 75:.khalilicollections 60:Size (no. of items) 39:, late 18th century 1209:Khalili Foundation 981:Khalili, Nasser D. 871:, pp. 47, 49. 461:nasserdkhalili.com 336: 319: 165:Dove-tail tapestry 161: 130: 1245: 1244: 1158:Jami' al-tawarikh 1127:Spanish Metalwork 1107:Aramaic Documents 1028:978-1-52991-818-2 395:Boston University 262:("up-catch") and 256:("monk's belt"), 101:eight collections 97:Nasser D. Khalili 89: 88: 81:/swedish-textiles 49:Nasser D. Khalili 1275: 1268:Swedish folk art 1235: 1234: 1225: 1224: 1144: 1122:Swedish Textiles 1081: 1072: 1065: 1058: 1049: 1048: 1043:Official website 1032: 1006: 976: 949: 913: 907: 901: 895: 889: 883: 872: 866: 860: 854: 839: 833: 824: 818: 809: 803: 797: 791: 785: 779: 768: 762: 756: 750: 741: 735: 729: 723: 717: 711: 705: 699: 690: 684: 675: 669: 660: 654: 648: 642: 633: 627: 621: 615: 609: 603: 597: 591: 585: 579: 570: 564: 555: 554: 552: 550: 535: 529: 528: 526: 524: 505: 499: 493: 478: 476: 471: 469: 467: 453: 436: 435: 433: 431: 417: 344: 308: 298: 292: 279: 267: 261: 255: 249: 244:("crab-snare"), 243: 201: 172: 85: 82: 80: 79:/all-collections 78: 76: 74: 33: 21: 20: 1283: 1282: 1278: 1277: 1276: 1274: 1273: 1272: 1248: 1247: 1246: 1241: 1213: 1197: 1181: 1145: 1136: 1083: 1079: 1076: 1039: 1029: 1013: 1011:Further reading 995: 965: 938: 922: 917: 916: 908: 904: 896: 892: 884: 875: 867: 863: 855: 842: 834: 827: 819: 812: 804: 800: 792: 788: 780: 771: 763: 759: 751: 744: 736: 732: 724: 720: 712: 708: 700: 693: 685: 678: 670: 663: 655: 651: 643: 636: 628: 624: 616: 612: 604: 600: 592: 588: 580: 573: 565: 558: 548: 546: 544:Financial Times 536: 532: 522: 520: 519:on 7 April 2022 507: 506: 502: 494: 481: 465: 463: 455: 454: 439: 429: 427: 419: 418: 414: 409: 404: 390:, Paris, France 373: 328: 268:("table-path"). 250:("half-crab"), 228:Weft patterning 153: 118: 71: 54: 52: 40: 17: 12: 11: 5: 1281: 1271: 1270: 1265: 1260: 1243: 1242: 1240: 1239: 1229: 1218: 1215: 1214: 1212: 1211: 1205: 1203: 1199: 1198: 1196: 1195: 1189: 1187: 1183: 1182: 1180: 1179: 1172: 1167: 1162: 1153: 1151: 1147: 1146: 1139: 1137: 1135: 1134: 1129: 1124: 1119: 1114: 1109: 1104: 1099: 1093: 1091: 1085: 1084: 1075: 1074: 1067: 1060: 1052: 1046: 1045: 1038: 1037:External links 1035: 1034: 1033: 1027: 1012: 1009: 1008: 1007: 993: 977: 963: 950: 936: 921: 918: 915: 914: 902: 890: 873: 861: 840: 825: 810: 798: 786: 769: 757: 742: 730: 718: 706: 691: 676: 661: 649: 634: 622: 610: 598: 586: 571: 556: 530: 500: 479: 437: 411: 410: 408: 405: 403: 400: 399: 398: 391: 384: 372: 369: 327: 324: 311: 310: 285: 282:piled weavings 269: 225: 219: 191: 167:, also called 152: 149: 117: 114: 87: 86: 69: 65: 64: 61: 57: 56: 46: 42: 41: 34: 26: 25: 15: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 1280: 1269: 1266: 1264: 1261: 1259: 1256: 1255: 1253: 1238: 1230: 1228: 1220: 1219: 1216: 1210: 1207: 1206: 1204: 1200: 1194: 1191: 1190: 1188: 1184: 1178: 1177: 1173: 1171: 1168: 1166: 1163: 1161: 1159: 1155: 1154: 1152: 1148: 1143: 1133: 1130: 1128: 1125: 1123: 1120: 1118: 1115: 1113: 1110: 1108: 1105: 1103: 1100: 1098: 1095: 1094: 1092: 1090: 1086: 1082: 1073: 1068: 1066: 1061: 1059: 1054: 1053: 1050: 1044: 1041: 1040: 1030: 1024: 1020: 1015: 1014: 1004: 1000: 996: 990: 986: 982: 978: 974: 970: 966: 960: 956: 951: 947: 943: 939: 933: 929: 924: 923: 912:, p. 11. 911: 906: 900:, p. 15. 899: 894: 888:, p. 13. 887: 882: 880: 878: 870: 865: 859:, p. 12. 858: 853: 851: 849: 847: 845: 838:, p. 14. 837: 832: 830: 823:, p. 89. 822: 817: 815: 808:, p. 83. 807: 802: 796:, p. 80. 795: 790: 784:, p. 79. 783: 778: 776: 774: 766: 761: 755:, p. 77. 754: 749: 747: 740:, p. 65. 739: 734: 728:, p. 71. 727: 722: 716:, p. 60. 715: 710: 704:, p. 58. 703: 698: 696: 689:, p. 54. 688: 683: 681: 674:, p. 53. 673: 668: 666: 659:, p. 40. 658: 653: 646: 641: 639: 632:, p. 39. 631: 626: 620:, p. 36. 619: 614: 607: 602: 596:, p. 17. 595: 590: 584:, p. 21. 583: 578: 576: 568: 563: 561: 545: 541: 534: 518: 514: 510: 504: 498:, p. 10. 497: 492: 490: 488: 486: 484: 475: 462: 458: 452: 450: 448: 446: 444: 442: 426: 422: 416: 412: 396: 392: 389: 385: 382: 378: 377: 376: 368: 366: 362: 357: 355: 351: 346: 343: 332: 323: 315: 307: 302: 297: 291: 286: 283: 278: 273: 270: 266: 260: 254: 248: 242: 237: 233: 229: 226: 223: 222:Simple weaves 220: 217: 213: 209: 205: 200: 195: 192: 189: 184: 180: 176: 171: 166: 163: 162: 157: 148: 145: 139: 136: 127: 126:Bara district 122: 113: 111: 107: 102: 98: 94: 84: 70: 66: 62: 58: 50: 47: 43: 38: 37:Bara district 32: 27: 22: 19: 1202:Philanthropy 1174: 1157: 1121: 1112:Japanese Art 1018: 984: 954: 927: 910:Franses 1996 905: 898:Franses 1996 893: 886:Franses 1996 864: 857:Franses 1996 836:Franses 1996 801: 789: 760: 733: 721: 709: 652: 647:, p. 9. 645:Franses 1996 625: 613: 601: 589: 569:, p. 8. 567:Khalili 1996 549:30 September 547:. Retrieved 543: 533: 521:. Retrieved 517:the original 512: 503: 496:Franses 1996 464:. Retrieved 460: 428:. Retrieved 424: 415: 374: 358: 350:Annunciation 347: 337: 320: 301:cross-stitch 271: 235: 231: 227: 221: 193: 188:Annunciation 164: 140: 131: 92: 90: 18: 1176:Musa va 'Uj 1097:Islamic Art 869:Hansen 1996 821:Hansen 1996 806:Hansen 1996 794:Hansen 1996 782:Hansen 1996 765:Hansen 1996 753:Hansen 1996 738:Hansen 1996 726:Hansen 1996 714:Hansen 1996 702:Hansen 1996 687:Hansen 1996 672:Hansen 1996 657:Hansen 1996 630:Hansen 1996 618:Hansen 1996 606:Hansen 1996 594:Hansen 1996 582:Hansen 1996 523:14 February 371:Exhibitions 342:bäckahästar 290:schattersöm 1252:Categories 994:1874780072 964:1874780072 937:1874780072 402:References 253:munkabälte 247:halvkrabba 241:krabbasnär 1237:Wikiquote 1003:990431053 973:990431053 946:990431053 354:KĂĄllandsö 296:korsstygn 170:flamskväv 135:epidemics 104:from the 51:(founder) 383:, Sweden 365:Anatolia 361:Jämtland 306:tvistsöm 265:dukagäng 259:opphämta 45:Curators 1227:Commons 920:Sources 466:13 June 430:16 June 303:") and 199:rölakan 68:Website 1117:Kimono 1025:  1001:  991:  971:  961:  944:  934:  513:UNESCO 277:flossa 216:cotton 214:, and 110:Sweden 106:Scania 407:Notes 381:Malmö 230:: in 204:linen 183:Malmö 144:dowry 1023:ISBN 999:OCLC 989:ISBN 969:OCLC 959:ISBN 942:OCLC 932:ISBN 551:2019 525:2020 468:2024 432:2020 212:jute 208:hemp 179:warp 175:weft 91:The 77:.org 196:or 73:www 63:100 1254:: 997:. 967:. 940:. 876:^ 843:^ 828:^ 813:^ 772:^ 745:^ 694:^ 679:^ 664:^ 637:^ 574:^ 559:^ 542:. 511:. 482:^ 459:. 440:^ 423:. 299:(" 274:: 210:, 1071:e 1064:t 1057:v 1031:. 1005:. 975:. 948:. 553:. 527:. 470:. 434:. 280:( 83:/

Index


Bara district
Nasser D. Khalili
www.khalilicollections.org/all-collections/swedish-textiles/
Nasser D. Khalili
eight collections
Scania
Sweden

Bara district
epidemics
dowry

weft
warp
Malmö
Annunciation
linen
hemp
jute
cotton
piled weavings
cross-stitch


Annunciation
Kållandsö
Jämtland
Anatolia
Malmö

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