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562:. Between its founding in 2004 through its closure in 2012, the center helped create 43 cheese factories in the state. By 2018, Wisconsin cheese factories produced more than 600 varieties of specialty cheese, approximately 50% of all specialty cheeses made in the United States. Wisconsin manufactured 3.36 billion pounds of cheese in 2019, accounting for 26% of all cheese produced in the United States and more than any other state.
176:. These sales were typically handled by the factory and a cheese dealer. This led to the creation of dairy boards, which acted as a place for cheese buyers and sellers to meet, and call boards, which allowed cheese buyers to bid on available product. Industrialization of the cheese industry in the state was slow, and scholars disagree on when the first commercial cheese factory was founded in the state. Historian
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The state continued to focus on quality and launched the first and only master cheesemaking program in the United States in 1994, graduating its first class of master cheesemakers in 1997. Cheese advocates sought to increase the production of artisan cheese in the state in the early 2000s, leading to
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While academic research improved the techniques used to make cheese during the late nineteenth century, UW-Madison began offering practical training to cheesemakers, launching a professional course on cheese and butter production in 1890. In the 12-week Dairy Short Course, students learned production
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changed its rules to allow any cheese factory in the state to sell its product on the
Plymouth board. Similar boards had previously served small areas. This rule change led to the Plymouth call board becoming the largest in the state, and in 1918, it was reorganized and renamed the Wisconsin Cheese
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in the 1980s, milk and cheese prices became much more volatile. Only small amounts of cheese were actually sold on the
Exchange, but the Exchange was susceptible to price fixing by large buyers, which affected cheese prices nationally on all markets. A 1996 study by researchers at UW-Madison found
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Throughout the latter half of the twentieth century, cheese factories in
Wisconsin continued to consolidate and close, with the number of factories declining from 1,279 in 1950 to 126 by 1999. Cheese production was concentrated into large-scale cheese operations or small boutique factories. Large
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At the worst class of factories...the intake room, walls, presses, and jacket of milk vats badly bespattered and greasy; the ceiling black with fly-specks, floor dirty and nearly all utensils unclean... No efforts were made to keep flies out or to reduce the number inside and some of them became
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It should be noted in this connection that the definition of a cheese factory is more or less arbitrary. It is not easy to say with precision what a factory is, or just when a private dairying establishment may be said to have ceased to be such and developed into a cheese factory... The factory
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The number of cheese factories in the state reached its zenith in 1922 at 2,807, after which many smaller plants closed or merged with their neighbors. These closures were due primarily to the widespread adoption of the automobile and development of milk trucks, which could travel from farm to
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off the top before sending it to the cheese factory. Some factory owners also skimmed the cream for use in other products. This resulted in "skimmed" or "filled" cheese, a cheese that quickly spoiled and lost its flavor. The production of this cheese damaged
Wisconsin's reputation for quality
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often struggled to make a consistent product due to variations in the milk they received and ongoing risk of contamination due to poor sanitation practices. By the 1880s, some farmers sought to increase the value of the milk produced, and would dilute the milk with water or skim
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would not become the dominant industry for several decades. The growth of cheese production mirrored the growth in dairy farming, and the number of cheese factories in
Wisconsin grew from 30 factories in 1860 to more than 700 in 1880. Operations were concentrated in
370:, and Sheboygan counties accounting for a plurality of cheese factories in Wisconsin. The popularity of the state's cheese rose during the 1910s, as did its production capacity, and by 1919 Wisconsin produced more than 63% of all cheese made in the United States.
323:. They published the discovery in 1897 and built upon it with the development of the cold-curing method, in which cheese is aged in rooms between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. This method was published in 1901 and began to see widespread use in the state by 1910.
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system may be said to have been reached only when some individual agrees to take the milkings of so large a number of cows (usually regarded as about 100) as to necessitate giving all, or at least the major portion, of his time and attention to cheese manufacture.
49:
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in 1974, continued its operations, selling cheese by the train car load. Nationwide prices for bulk cheese and by extension, the milk to produce it, were set by the
Exchange. Following the reduction of milk price support via the
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factory quicker than a farmer with a horse and wagon. Despite the decrease in the number of factories, cheese production continued to rise, increasing from 307.4 million pounds in 1920 to 406.9 million pounds in 1940.
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Following a decline in the wheat crop after 1860 caused by a variety of factors, including lower prices, pests, disease, and a volatile climate, Wisconsin farmers began raising other crops and livestock, though
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Cold pack or club cheese was invented in
Wisconsin bars near the end of the nineteenth century. It is a blend of cheeses, seasonings, and cream, mashed together in a jar to make a spread.
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went into effect in 1920, after which its popularity declined. As of 2020, the only cheese factory that produces limburger cheese in the United States is the Chalet Cheese
Cooperative in
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Quality standards continued to rise, and in 1915 Wisconsin became the first state to require cheesemakers to be licensed. Six years later, Wisconsin became the first state to require
327:
and cleaning techniques. Many of these early facilities lacked rigorous cleaning standards, resulting in low-quality cheese. One inspector remarked of the worst offenders in 1906:
261:(pictured) developed processes for cold-curing cheese in the late 19th and early 20th centuries that significantly improved the quality and consistency of cheese made in Wisconsin.
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noted in 1916 that the lack of a clear definition of what constitutes a cheese factory makes it difficult to make a definitive pronouncement of which one was first; however,
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examined the mechanisms of cheese maturation, discovering that an enzyme they named galactase, rather than bacteria as had been previously thought, caused the cheese to
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in the early 1900s, and in 2019 produced over 3.36 billion pounds of cheese in more than 600 varieties, accounting for 27% of all cheese made in the country that year.
618:, from which it derives its name, by Joseph F. Steinwand. It is similar to cheddar in appearance and flavor, though is milder and softer. Colby can be mixed with
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446:
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created the Office of the Dairy and Food
Commissioner in 1889 to oversee cheese production in the state. Wisconsin outlawed the sale of filled cheese in 1895.
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involving neighboring families. The first documented cheesemaking cooperative in
Wisconsin was opened by A. Pickett in 1841 and operated from his home near
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had engaged in such manipulation in the early 1990s. This price manipulation, which caused milk and cheese prices to drop significantly, led to the
172:. Selling Wisconsin-made cheese outside the state's borders was difficult in these early years, with buyers typically preferring cheese produced in
596:
Brick cheese was invented in 1877 by John Jossi. It is a mild semsisoft cheese that ranges in color from white to pale yellow. It is often used on
558:
the creation of the Dairy Business Innovation Center in 2004. The center was funded by the federal government with money secured by U.S. Senator
39:
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662:. It is noted for its strong odor, caused by the bacteria which ripens the cheese. It was commonly served with dark bread and onions until
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By the 1950s, advances in milk production and transportation, including the adoption of milk houses—storage buildings separated from a
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Several varieties of cheese originated or are produced only in Wisconsin, including brick, colby, cold pack, and limburger.
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cheesemaking. After pressure from the Wisconsin Dairymen's Association and the election of dairy advocate
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Dairy farming was uncommon in Wisconsin's early years. Farmers preferred to plant other crops, primarily
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Rockweiler, Sheila (June 11, 1997). "4 veteran state cheesemakers are first to attain master' status".
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Biennial report of the Dairy and Food Commissioner of Wisconsin. For the two years ending June 30, 1910
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Biennial report of the Dairy and Food Commissioner of Wisconsin. For the two years ending June 30, 1906
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Biennial report of the Dairy and Food Commissioner of Wisconsin. For the two years ending June 30, 1906
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the test, leading to its widespread adoption in North America. In 1896, Babcock and fellow professor
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468:, further increased the quality of milk and cheese produced in the state. The growing popularity of
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Cheesemaking had concentrated in the eastern and southern regions of the state by 1910, with Green,
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is regarded as opening the first large-scale cheese factory in the state. Hazen's factory opened in
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Exchange. By 1936, the Exchange was used to set national prices for cheese, leading to a number of
78:
105:, with large-scale production starting in the mid-1800s. Wisconsin became the largest producer of
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222:
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Galloway, Jennifer A. (December 31, 1995). "Foremost Farms changing the way it does business".
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Rosenthal, Ionel; Rosen, Baruch (June 1993). "100 years of measuring the fat content of milk".
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1073:"An Industry Revitalized: Harry Russell, Stephen Babcock, and the Cold Curing of Cheese"
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The rise of the dairy industry in Wisconsin: a study in agricultural change, 1820-1920
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Mueller, Willard F.; Marion, Bruce W.; Sial, Maqbool H.; Geithman, F.E. (March 1996).
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content. This helped ensure cheesemakers received unadulterated milk. Babcock did not
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156:. Cows were generally tended to by women on farmsteads, who in turn made cheese and
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164:. Early larger-scale cheesemaking operations began in the late 1830s, primarily as
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Bussler, Greg; Hubbell, Audra; Joyner, Adrien; Woodstock, Heidi (October 2020).
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1357:"Dairy Business Innovation Center to close at end of month amid funding woes"
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1178:. Madison, Wis.: Office of the Dairy and Food Commissioner of Wisconsin. 1910
1151:. Madison, Wis.: Office of the Dairy and Food Commissioner of Wisconsin. 1906
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during the decade led some Wisconsin cheese manufacturers to produce more
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476:; by 2017, Wisconsin produced more mozzarella than any other variety.
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44:
1411:"Detroit-style pizza shines a spotlight on Wisconsin's brick cheese"
1383:"10 slices of Wisconsin cheese wisdom a true cheesehead should know"
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U.S. Dairy Industry at a Crossroad: Biotechnology and Policy Choices
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tangled up in the milk and curd and were mixed up with the cheese.
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is regarded as the first cheese factory proprietor in Wisconsin.
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863:(2nd ed.). Madison, Wis.: University of Wisconsin Press.
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Nesbit, Robert Carrington; Thompson, William Fletcher (2004).
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cheese factory placing a Wisconsin stamp on wheels of cheese.
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in the State of Wisconsin. Pictured is a worker in 1922 at a
736: – Overview of the milk producing industry in Wisconsin
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236:
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Several cheese varieties originated in Wisconsin, including
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965:
Economic History of Wisconsin During the Civil War Decade
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200:
Economic History of Wisconsin During the Civil War Decade
901:, Wis.: Sheboygan County Historical Society. p. 276
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Cheese Pricing: A study of the National Cheese Exchange
531:
Food, Agriculture, Conservation, and Trade Act of 1990
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United States Department of Justice Antitrust Division
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producers manufactured bulk cheddar, mozzarella, and
241:
1465:"To Find Out Who You Are, Peer Into the Cheese Ball"
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in the 1890s also helped the cheesemaking industry.
516:The Wisconsin Cheese Exchange, which had moved to
445:lawsuits levied against cheese purchasers by the
16:History of the cheesemaking industry in Wisconsin
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958:
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856:
1307:"Dairy State no longer home to cheese market"
1047:. Madison, Wis.: Wisconsin Historical Society
480:1990–2020: Consolidation and industry changes
1493:"Limburger: The cheese that "nose" no equal"
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492:, produces more than 90 varieties of cheese.
93:dates back to the nineteenth century. Early
1437:"Colby Angles To Be Wisconsin's Big Cheese"
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819:Cheese: The Making of a Wisconsin Tradition
614:Colby cheese was first produced in 1885 in
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1355:Adams, Barry (September 13, 2012).
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1000:Apps, Jerold W. (August 17, 2015).
654:Limburger cheese originated in the
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1463:Severson, Kim (December 5, 2016).
1270:"Overview of the Dairy Industry".
1008:Wisconsin Historical Society Press
279:as Wisconsin's 16th governor, the
242:Government intervention on quality
14:
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1409:Deptolla, Carol (April 5, 2021).
1077:The Wisconsin Magazine of History
374:Cheese factories by county, 1910
1381:Higgins, Daniel (June 5, 2020).
1003:Wisconsin Agriculture: A History
891:Buchen, Gustave William (1976).
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1491:Curd, Dan (February 16, 2018).
1285:Office of Technology Assessment
1199:"Change in America's Dairyland"
1197:Cross, John A. (October 2001).
939:University of Wisconsin–Madison
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297:University of Wisconsin-Madison
251:University of Wisconsin-Madison
1435:White, Laurel (July 7, 2021).
724: – Craft of making cheese
533:, as well as giveaways by the
1:
1112:Journal of Chemical Education
1071:Beardsley, Edward H. (1965).
831:University of Wisconsin Press
740:
574:Colby cheese was invented in
970:Wisconsin Historical Society
712: – Farming in Wisconsin
543:Commodity Credit Corporation
520:in 1956 and was renamed the
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1536:History of American cuisine
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10:
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1415:Milwaukee Journal Sentinel
1341:Milwaukee Journal Sentinel
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1041:Lampard, Eric E. (1963).
894:Historic Sheboygan County
554:of the Exchange in 1997.
527:Food Security Act of 1985
488:Carr Valley Cheese, near
436:In 1909, a call board in
166:agricultural cooperatives
91:cheesemaking in Wisconsin
817:Apps, Jerold W. (2020).
734:Wisconsin dairy industry
710:Agriculture in Wisconsin
522:National Cheese Exchange
1388:Green Bay Press-Gazette
1361:Wisconsin State Journal
1256:Wisconsin State Journal
460:by a wall—refrigerated
137:1830s–1880: Early years
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287:Research improvements
281:Wisconsin Legislature
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103:Wisconsin territories
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1531:History of Wisconsin
860:Wisconsin: A History
620:Monterey Jack cheese
382:Number of factories
1217:2001GeoRv..91..702C
1204:Geographical Review
1125:1993JChEd..70..480R
821:(Second ed.).
598:Detroit-style pizza
566:Wisconsin varieties
490:La Valle, Wisconsin
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317:Harry Luman Russell
255:Harry Luman Russell
1470:The New York Times
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301:Stephen M. Babcock
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259:Stephen M. Babcock
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47:to this page from
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1006:. Madison, Wis.:
968:. Madison, Wis.:
937:. Madison, Wis.:
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688:Food portal
664:Prohibition
552:dissolution
464:, and milk
253:professors
89:Commercial
77:Dairy is a
1520:Categories
1287:. May 1991
741:References
716:Cheesehead
624:Colby-Jack
511:gorgonzola
462:bulk tanks
299:professor
170:Lake Mills
83:New Glarus
62:April 2023
53:; try the
40:link to it
1317:Bloomberg
899:Sheboygan
560:Herb Kohl
518:Green Bay
427:Outagamie
419:Sheboygan
411:Lafayette
368:Lafayette
309:butterfat
188:in 1864.
160:from the
126:cold pack
43:. Please
962:(1916).
674:See also
622:to form
578:in 1885.
529:and the
438:Plymouth
335:—
196:—
174:New York
99:Michigan
1504:June 3,
1498:WISC-TV
1476:June 3,
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1420:June 3,
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1233:3594727
1213:Bibcode
1182:June 1,
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1089:4634124
1051:May 28,
1023:May 28,
985:May 25,
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823:Madison
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660:Belgium
541:by the
507:havarti
348:grading
132:History
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509:, and
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379:County
313:patent
265:Early
221:, and
186:Ladoga
158:butter
124:, and
107:cheese
36:orphan
34:is an
1277:(PDF)
1229:JSTOR
1085:JSTOR
762:(PDF)
616:Colby
576:Colby
546:that
470:pizza
395:Dodge
387:Green
360:Dodge
321:ripen
272:cream
227:Swiss
154:wheat
122:brick
118:colby
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1478:2022
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775:2022
458:barn
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403:Iowa
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257:and
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162:milk
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