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grain. In sewing, a pattern piece can be cut from fabric in any orientation, and the chosen grain or orientation will affect the way the fabric hangs and stretches and thus the fit of a garment. Generally speaking a piece is said to be cut on a particular grain when the longest part of the pattern or
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The "bias-cut" is a technique used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the bias or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly. For example, a full-skirted dress cut on the bias will hang more gracefully or
205:"...an extraordinary oddity was added to his appearance by the circumstance that every article of his attire, save, I suppose, his gloves and boots, was cut on what dressmakers call a "bias", or as he himself, when I came to know him well, used to designate as Ă la zoug-zoug."
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in 1920s and 1930s and bias-cut styles are revived periodically. Before her time, bias cut was rare in women's clothing and in men’s garments was highly unconventional to the point of being outré. As an example, in the early 1800’s, the specially-designed clothing of the
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runs perpendicular to the selvedge and parallel to the weft threads. The cross grain generally has more stretch than the straight grain since the weft threads are generally looser than the warp during weaving. Most garments (like
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to each other. A garment made of woven fabric is said to be "cut on the bias" when the fabric's warp and weft threads are on one of the bias grains.
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Woven fabric is more elastic as well as more fluid in the bias direction, compared to the straight and cross grains. This property facilitates
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and garment details that require extra elasticity, drapability or flexibility, such as bias-cut skirts and dresses,
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Howard, Pamela. "For woven fabrics, it's important to go with the grain". Threads (Taunton Press) April/May 2005.
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were cut on the bias in order to make them fit better. The old spelling was byas, or (less common) byess.
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a narrow dress will cling to the figure. Bias-cut garments were an important feature of the designs of
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the main seams of the finished piece are aligned with that grain. Non-woven materials such as
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Michael Garval "Romantic
Gastronomies: Alexis Soyer and the Rise of the Celebrity Chef"
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threads it is referred to as "true bias." Every piece of woven fabric has two biases,
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A close-up image of the grain of blue woven chambray fabric
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In the Middle Ages, before the development of knitting,
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287:. Retrieved
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639:Collar stay
595:Felled seam
537:Pick stitch
502:Coverstitch
259:madparis.fr
104:cross grain
98:Cross grain
72:interfacing
59:cross grain
1159:Categories
1033:Elias Howe
994:Simplicity
929:Dressmaker
837:Pincushion
817:Needlecase
812:Dress form
771:Grain/bias
725:Buttonhole
694:Twill tape
605:Style line
532:Pad stitch
522:Lockstitch
487:Buttonhole
467:Backstitch
371:Techniques
289:2019-07-17
264:2019-07-17
229:References
984:Clothkits
974:Butterick
944:Silkwoman
909:Suppliers
764:Materials
634:Bias tape
567:Topstitch
542:Rantering
517:Hemstitch
223:Bias tape
169:, piping
1165:Textiles
1073:New Home
1004:Machines
989:McCall's
966:Patterns
847:Scissors
708:Closures
689:Soutache
679:Rickrack
590:Neckline
557:Stoating
527:Overlock
472:Bar tack
453:Stitches
443:Shirring
307:Archived
217:See also
167:neckties
163:garments
92:selvedge
63:the bias
43:textiles
1028:Brother
1023:Bernina
882:Thimble
776:Selvage
699:Wrights
649:Galloon
644:Elastic
618:Notions
552:Sashiko
547:Running
477:Blanket
388:Darning
378:Basting
76:leather
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1126:Sewing
1088:Singer
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1068:Merrow
1053:Janome
1043:Feiyue
949:Tailor
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924:Draper
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807:Bobbin
786:Thread
755:Zipper
720:Button
715:Buckle
674:Ruffle
669:Piping
572:Zigzag
428:Gusset
413:Gather
364:Sewing
148:fabric
113:shirts
61:, and
1103:White
1078:Pfaff
1058:Jones
979:Burda
800:Tools
745:Shank
582:Seams
438:Pleat
418:Godet
184:dandy
171:trims
145:woven
109:pants
47:grain
40:woven
1063:Juki
1038:Elna
1009:list
791:Yarn
750:Snap
730:Frog
623:Trim
562:Tack
458:list
393:Ease
211:hose
186:and
141:bias
139:The
119:Bias
102:The
86:The
68:felt
38:For
832:Pin
383:Cut
111:or
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