304:
to be climbed. Herzog had invited him to be in the summit team but Ang
Tharkay had declined, saying his feet were starting to freeze. Herzog and Lachenal, descending from the summit, had dreadfully frostbitten feet and had to be carried down by the sherpas, including Ang Tharkay. In his 1954 memoirs
318:
the party had entered Tibet, which they knew was not permitted, but they hoped they would not be noticed. However, things went wrong and they were apprehended by an armed militia. There was shouting on both sides for ten minutes until Ang
Tharkay, who was sirdar, asked the Europeans to move away.
366:
Shipton wrote, "We soon learned to value his rare qualities, qualities which made him outstandingly the best of all the
Sherpas I have known. He had a shrewd judgement both of men and of situations, and was absolutely steady in any crisis. He was a most lovable person, modest and unselfish and
29:
319:
There followed twenty minutes of further loud argument after which he came back to the sahibs, grinning – they were to be released for payment of seven rupees which Ang
Tharkay had been arguing down from ten. Shipton had been worrying because he only had 1200 rupees to purchase their freedom.
269:. Cooke later said that because he found him to be the most reliable of the sherpas he "stupidly left him in charge of Base Camp and did not take him to the summit". Ang Tharkay was sirdar in 1937 for Shipton's five-month survey of 1,800 square miles (4,700 km) of
362:
said of Ang
Tharkay, "He was exceptional as both climber and sirdar, and his character won high praise from all who knew him". Cooke considered him "one of the bravest, most intelligent, and adventurous of all the young Sherpas".
249:
was recruiting sherpas for the 1936 ascent of Nanda Devi. There were two occasions on the 1934 expedition when
Shipton credits him with finding a route when everyone else had thought they would have to turn back.
367:
completely sincere, with an infectious gaiety of spirit. He has been with me on all my subsequent journeys to the
Himalayas, and to him I owe a large measure of their success and much of my enjoyment".
506:
202:
in
Darjeeling sent him to Switzerland on a technical climbing course. In 1954 he set up his own trekking business in Darjeeling and published his autobiography
315:
254:
342:(reaching the summit) in 1955. In 1962 he had to be coaxed out of his retirement to be sirdar for an Indian expedition to Everest where they reached the
191:. Hoping to make a living as a mountaineering porter, like many ambitious boys of his era living near Everest, at the age of twelve he migrated to
198:
He was married to Ang
Yangjin and they had a daughter and four sons. He was well-built though only about 5 feet (1.5 m) tall. In 1954 the
925:
969:
206:(in French) – he was the first mountaineering sherpa to write a book. He also became a successful road building contractor in western
242:
959:
796:
914:
392:
384:
278:
234:
974:
440:
399:
said he did not think he had ever recovered from his 1922 expedience. It therefore seems these were two different people.
213:
When he retired from active mountaineering around 1962 he returned to Nepal to farm a large area of land to the south of
874:
305:
he made particular mention that he was treated with friendship and equality by the French climbers. He was awarded the
199:
893:
851:
498:
720:
285:
828:
151:
for many
Himalayan expeditions. He was "beyond question the outstanding sherpa of his era" and he introduced
842:
Fallen Giants : A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes
359:
237:
where he became honoured as one of the "Tigers" – one who carried to over 27,000 feet (8,200 m).
524:
346:. This made him the oldest person to climb to eight thousand metres. Ang Tharkay took a party to the
758:
396:
964:
695:"Mountaineering and Mount Everest Books for sale, Eric Shipton, Bill Tilman, Tenzing, Himalaya"
350:
in 1975, and in 1978 at the age of 70 he led the sherpas for the French attempt on Dhaulagiri.
261:, got his first engagement as a sherpa. Also that year Ang Tharkay was in the party supporting
904:
245:
as well as for Shipton's return visit to Nanda Devi in 1936 – he had not been available when
47:
954:
949:
229:
The first time Ang Tharkay was chosen for an expedition was in 1931 by a German party for
8:
694:
347:
383:
Ward is quite definite that Ang Tharkay's first expedition was in 1931. However, on the
910:
889:
870:
863:
847:
840:
824:
241:, who had also been in the 1933 party, selected him (effectively as sirdar) for the
307:
301:
297:
903:
Shipton, Eric; Perrin, Jim; Venables, Stephen; Ruttledge, Hugh (15 October 2014).
148:
143:(1907 – 28 July 1981) was a Nepalese mountain climber and explorer who acted as
293:
289:
258:
152:
448:
943:
499:"Bob McKerrow - Wayfarer: Ang Tharkay - The Father Of Modern Sherpa Climbers"
230:
188:
176:
144:
238:
172:
119:
387:
a sherpa of the same name was rescued, unconscious, from the catastrophic
865:
Life and death on Mt. Everest : sherpas and Himalayan mountaineering
262:
246:
195:
in India which was where many expeditions selected sherpas and porters.
327:
192:
180:
388:
343:
270:
214:
78:
28:
662:
638:
331:
323:
650:
335:
207:
60:
518:
516:
339:
266:
184:
64:
542:
513:
257:
and it was because of Ang Tharkay that a friend of his,
611:
274:
674:
601:
599:
597:
595:
582:
580:
578:
565:
563:
561:
559:
557:
628:
626:
412:
738:
463:
862:
839:
592:
575:
554:
623:
311:– the first sherpa to receive a European honour.
941:
846:(1 ed.). New Haven: Yale University Press.
837:
721:"A tribute to Sherpas, the tigers of the snow"
548:
818:
644:
33:Ang Tharkay in 1935 on the Everest expedition
163:Ang Tharkay (his name is also often written
838:Isserman, Maurice; Weaver, Stewart (2008).
785:
617:
492:
490:
488:
486:
484:
482:
480:
478:
221:. He died of cancer in Kathmandu in 1981.
217:. He then started another trekking agency
27:
869:. Princeton: Princeton University Press.
496:
902:
718:
668:
522:
475:
391:avalanche and then he returned for the
233:. He was then included in the team for
171:) was born in 1907 to a poor family in
942:
883:
860:
786:Ang Tharkay; Norton, Basil P. (1954).
680:
656:
469:
418:
316:British Everest reconnaissance in 1951
16:Nepalese sherpa and sirdar (1907–1981)
819:Holzel, Tom; Salkeld, Audrey (1999).
794:
632:
435:
433:
431:
429:
427:
923:
744:
605:
586:
569:
224:
497:McKerrow, Bob (12 September 2010).
13:
970:Recipients of the Legion of Honour
692:
509:from the original on 4 March 2016.
424:
235:British attempt on Everest in 1933
200:Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
14:
986:
926:"The Great Angtharkay: A Tribute"
909:(Kindle). Vertebrate Publishing.
821:The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine
756:
763:everestbookreport.blogspot.co.uk
759:"Everest Book Report: July 2011"
286:1950 French Annapurna expedition
284:He was sirdar on the successful
158:
155:to the world of mountaineering.
960:People from Solukhumbu District
750:
712:
686:
523:Horrell, Mark (19 March 2014).
377:
353:
255:1935 British Everest expedition
779:
525:"10 great Sherpa mountaineers"
322:Ang Tharkay went as sirdar to
1:
719:Horrell, Mark (15 May 2013).
406:
549:Isserman & Weaver (2008)
75:28 July 1981 (aged about 74)
7:
699:www.mountaineeringbooks.org
645:Holzel & Salkeld (1999)
243:1934 Nanda Devi exploration
10:
991:
975:Nepalese mountain climbers
861:Ortner, Sherry B. (1999).
503:bobmckerrow.blogspot.co.uk
360:Royal Geographical Society
659:, pp. 178, 273, 280.
130:
125:
115:
107:
99:
94:
86:
71:
53:
43:
38:
26:
370:
385:1922 Everest expedition
279:1938 Everest expedition
924:Ward, Michael (1996).
888:. London: Hutchinson.
445:imagingeverest.rgs.org
884:Perrin, Jim (2013).
799:MĂ©moires d'un Sherpa
795:Cooke, C.R. (1956).
788:MĂ©moires d'un Sherpa
647:, pp. 129, 206.
204:MĂ©moires d'un Sherpa
39:Personal information
823:. London: Pimlico.
451:on 26 November 2015
348:Annapurna Sanctuary
273:territory north of
116:Famous partnerships
108:Starting discipline
23:
886:Shipton and Tilman
618:Ang Tharkay (1954)
265:'s solo ascent of
21:
916:978-1-910240-16-8
671:, 2495–2504/3254.
277:and again on the
225:Major expeditions
138:
137:
982:
936:
930:
920:
899:
880:
868:
857:
845:
834:
815:
805:
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540:
539:
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511:
510:
494:
473:
467:
461:
460:
458:
456:
447:. Archived from
437:
422:
416:
400:
381:
308:LĂ©gion d'honneur
302:eight-thousander
175:, just north of
82:
67:
31:
24:
20:
990:
989:
985:
984:
983:
981:
980:
979:
940:
939:
928:
917:
896:
877:
854:
831:
814:(292): 226–227.
803:
790:. Amiot-Dumont.
782:
777:
767:
765:
755:
751:
743:
739:
729:
727:
717:
713:
703:
701:
691:
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651:
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639:
631:
624:
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612:
604:
593:
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568:
555:
547:
543:
533:
531:
521:
514:
495:
476:
468:
464:
454:
452:
439:
438:
425:
417:
413:
409:
404:
403:
393:1924 expedition
382:
378:
373:
356:
227:
161:
77:
76:
59:
58:
44:Main discipline
34:
17:
12:
11:
5:
988:
978:
977:
972:
967:
962:
957:
952:
938:
937:
933:Alpine Journal
921:
915:
900:
894:
881:
876:978-0691074481
875:
858:
852:
835:
829:
816:
808:Alpine Journal
792:
781:
778:
776:
775:
749:
747:, p. 183.
737:
711:
693:Astill, Tony.
685:
683:, p. 237.
673:
669:Shipton (2014)
661:
649:
637:
622:
610:
608:, p. 184.
591:
589:, p. 182.
574:
572:, p. 185.
553:
551:, p. 185.
541:
512:
474:
462:
423:
421:, p. 178.
410:
408:
405:
402:
401:
375:
374:
372:
369:
355:
352:
294:Louis Lachenal
290:Maurice Herzog
263:Reginald Cooke
259:Tenzing Norgay
253:He was on the
226:
223:
219:Nepal Trekking
160:
157:
153:Tenzing Norgay
136:
135:
132:
128:
127:
123:
122:
117:
113:
112:
109:
105:
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97:
96:
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88:
84:
83:
73:
69:
68:
55:
51:
50:
45:
41:
40:
36:
35:
32:
15:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
987:
976:
973:
971:
968:
966:
965:Sherpa people
963:
961:
958:
956:
953:
951:
948:
947:
945:
934:
927:
922:
918:
912:
908:
907:
901:
897:
895:9780091795467
891:
887:
882:
878:
872:
867:
866:
859:
855:
853:9780300115017
849:
844:
843:
836:
832:
826:
822:
817:
813:
809:
802:
800:
793:
789:
784:
783:
764:
760:
753:
746:
741:
726:
722:
715:
700:
696:
689:
682:
681:Perrin (2013)
677:
670:
665:
658:
657:Perrin (2013)
653:
646:
641:
634:
629:
627:
619:
614:
607:
602:
600:
598:
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588:
583:
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571:
566:
564:
562:
560:
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526:
519:
517:
508:
504:
500:
493:
491:
489:
487:
485:
483:
481:
479:
472:, p. 72.
471:
470:Ortner (1999)
466:
450:
446:
442:
441:"Ang Tharkay"
436:
434:
432:
430:
428:
420:
419:Perrin (2013)
415:
411:
398:
397:Charles Bruce
394:
390:
386:
380:
376:
368:
364:
361:
351:
349:
345:
341:
337:
333:
329:
325:
320:
317:
314:On Shipton's
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295:
291:
287:
282:
280:
276:
272:
268:
264:
260:
256:
251:
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244:
240:
236:
232:
231:Kangchenjunga
222:
220:
216:
211:
209:
205:
201:
196:
194:
190:
189:Mount Everest
186:
182:
178:
177:Namche Bazaar
174:
170:
166:
159:Personal life
156:
154:
150:
146:
142:
133:
129:
124:
121:
118:
114:
110:
106:
102:
98:
93:
89:
85:
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74:
70:
66:
62:
56:
52:
49:
46:
42:
37:
30:
25:
19:
932:
905:
885:
864:
841:
820:
811:
807:
798:
787:
766:. Retrieved
762:
752:
740:
728:. Retrieved
725:Mark Horrell
724:
714:
702:. Retrieved
698:
688:
676:
664:
652:
640:
633:Cooke (1956)
613:
544:
532:. Retrieved
529:Mark Horrell
528:
502:
465:
453:. Retrieved
449:the original
444:
414:
379:
365:
357:
354:Appreciation
338:in 1954 and
326:in 1952, to
321:
313:
306:
300:, the first
283:
252:
239:Eric Shipton
228:
218:
212:
203:
197:
183:district of
168:
164:
162:
140:
139:
120:Eric Shipton
100:Starting age
18:
955:1981 deaths
950:1907 births
780:Works cited
768:15 December
745:Ward (1996)
730:15 December
704:15 December
606:Ward (1996)
587:Ward (1996)
570:Ward (1996)
534:15 December
455:15 December
247:Bill Tilman
141:Ang Tharkay
134:Ang Yangjin
87:Nationality
22:Ang Tharkay
944:Categories
935:: 182–186.
906:Nanda Devi
830:0712664882
797:"Reviews:
407:References
328:Dhaulagiri
193:Darjeeling
181:Solukhumbu
165:Angtharkay
147:and later
389:North Col
344:South Col
334:in 1953,
298:Annapurna
271:Karakoram
215:Kathmandu
169:Angtarkay
79:Kathmandu
507:Archived
103:24 years
90:Nepalese
757:Grant.
324:Cho Oyu
187:, near
179:in the
81:, Nepal
913:
892:
873:
850:
827:
336:Makalu
208:Sikkim
149:sirdar
145:sherpa
131:Spouse
126:Family
111:Porter
95:Career
61:Khumbu
48:Sherpa
929:(PDF)
804:(PDF)
395:when
371:Notes
340:Kamet
288:with
267:Kabru
185:Nepal
173:Kunde
65:Nepal
911:ISBN
890:ISBN
871:ISBN
848:ISBN
825:ISBN
770:2015
732:2015
706:2015
536:2015
457:2015
358:The
330:and
292:and
72:Died
57:1907
54:Born
332:Nun
296:to
167:or
946::
931:.
812:61
810:.
806:.
761:.
723:.
697:.
625:^
594:^
577:^
556:^
527:.
515:^
505:.
501:.
477:^
443:.
426:^
281:.
275:K2
210:.
63:,
919:.
898:.
879:.
856:.
833:.
801:"
772:.
734:.
708:.
635:.
620:.
538:.
459:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
