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main thing. Each designer has tried them out in an individual manner. Usually they are lined with a contrasting colour and fabric. Old gold and
Chinese blue alternate with pearl and slate grey as chosen linings. When the polonaise is of dark red velvet or black the lining is of cream or dead white. If we wear it next winter as Paris is showing it at the present moment it will further the evident inclination of the designers and the public to strengthen the fashionable position of the present skirt.
358:
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brown, green, blue, buff, with large brilliant colored flowers and figures. They are made with a ruffled skirt and
Polonaise, caught up by large bows of black velvet. These costumes certainly carry us back to the days of our grandmothers, and will, we fear, meet with but little favor for a season; but if fashion decrees, there will always be some to follow her mandate.
180:
Though this term is often applied to any eighteenth-century dress with back drapery, it belongs, strictly speaking, to an over dress that appeared c. 1775. This was cut like the man's coat of the same period, with centre back and two far-back side seams all terminating in inverted pleats, the front
409:
Black Lyons velvet is seen for dinner gowns, some appliqued with heavy Venice lace which often is draped to form a polonaise line in a slim apron effect at the front of the skirt. Actual polonaise drapery softens the skirts of brocaded black silk dinner dresses, an old fashioned quality enhanced by
296:
Handsome suits of fine foulard, pongee, and silk serge, are simply trimmed with plain bias bands, closely fitting sleeves, and basque waist, or
Polonaise; over this a linen Polonaise is worn as a protection, closely buttoned, and trimmed simply with side plaitings, and a Gabrielle front, with three
192:
as "cut in four parts, two at the front and two at the back," with the bodice closed at the top center front and sloping away at the sides, leaving a triangular gap that was filled by a false waistcoat. Sleeves could be three-quarter length or long, and various styles such as the Irish, Italian and
390:
Possibly the struggles through which Poland is going, unfortunate Poland with her great genius and her greater misery, have tempted the French to reflect her present disaster in a costume. In the adaptation of the polonaise to modern requirements the floating panels at the side are featured as the
302:
Cretonne costumes are the novelty of the season: they were introduced last year at French watering places, and a few have been imported here this season. They are intended for country wear only, and are made of the chintz figured cretonnes used for upholstering furniture; the grounds are black,
141:, and the fullness of the skirts at the back waist and over the hips. One way to "create the fashionable bulk at the back and sides of the dress was to kilt up the overskirt by means of interior or exterior loops, buttons or tassels to form swags of material. This style ... was known as
736:"FIG 1: WALKING DRESS OF PONGEE - The skirt has three scant ruffles with a plaiting of the same material above them, the basque is of a Polonaise shape, gathered in full on the hips, forming a deep tunic at the back. Two ruffles trim the tunic and buttons fasten it down the front."
381:
ran a fashion column in
November 1915 describing the polonaise of 1914/15 as a French design consisting of a long coat-like overdress of metallic lace or elaborately decorated sheer fabric worn over a plain underdress. Another version of the polonaise was described by the
347:
Polonaises are also returned to favour, not only as seen in the long straight pelisse, which, fur-trimmed, is the most fashionable of garments, but with the skirt portion drawn up at the hips; this produces the wavy folds as in the draperies of 20 years
160:) derives "obviously from Polish styles—whether it referred originally to the fur trimming or to the kilting up to one side (a Polish fashion which came from Turkish costume) is not really clear." There is some controversy over application of the name
464:
297:
or four deep box-plaits at the back. This style of linen
Polonaise can be looped up and worn over a corresponding linen skirt also. Overskirts to the dress, or the Polonaise skirt, must be very long and only looped up at the sides.
336:
By the end of the 1870s and into the 1880s, the term 'polonaise' also described an overdress which resembled a long coat worn over an underskirt, sometimes with a waistcoat effect. This could be draped or undraped. In July 1894,
145:." This style was characterized by ankle length petticoats that revealed high-heeled walking shoes. Due to this it served as a practical garment for walking because the skirts did not drag along the ground.
422:
399:
the term fell out of regular use, although was occasionally used by fashion writers as a descriptive term in the 1930s-50s for any form of draping around the upper skirt. For example, the
110:
made the Polish dress popular in that decade. By the 1770s, elements of this style began to appear in fashionable dress, including the wide-brimmed hat (dubbed the "Rubens hat" in the
441:
168:, but with cords pulling up the skirts in two places in the back, and they date the style from the beginning of the 1770s. Others explicitly refute this: Waugh states that the
148:
Since the beginning of the 18th century, middle-class women had adopted various impromptu ways of kilting their overskirts up out of the muck of the streets. The
233:
was applied to a variety of garments throughout the 19th century, often because their styling was thought to be Polish in inspiration. One such example was the
690:
style seems likely to be in great favor, and our present pattern will be found to remove all difficulties as to the manner of cutting this elegant dress."
483:
723:, etc, is exceedingly popular for an over-dress. The body and skirt is cut in one, and the latter is a good deal puffed up over a coloured petticoat."
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dress, with the fronts opening in a slanting direction as shown by the 1st figure of plate 1, and of which we now give the full-sized pattern: this
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During the very late 1860s references to historical dress became fashionable, including draped overskirts loosely based on the 18th century
667:
La Belle
Assemblée: Or, Court and Fashionable Magazine; Containing Interesting and Original Literature, and Records of the Beau-monde
217:
98:
also described a fitted overdress which extended into long panels over the underskirt, but was not necessarily draped or swagged.
957:
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A woman of fashion well wrapped up in a
Witzchoura pelisse, with sleeves à la Polonaise, ought to wear black velvet boots...
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being in one piece with an underarm dart. It was caught to the top of the bodice centre front ...
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Fashion, Costume, and
Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations and Footwear through the Ages
1978:
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About the same time, French fashion adopted a number of styles of
English origin, such as the
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announced the 'redingote polonaise' to be the height of fashion in Paris and New York. The
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The polonaise underwent another revival in the mid-late 1910s. A 1914 newspaper advert for
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showing a green silk dress with an asymmetrically opening front described as being made
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to 18th century dress. Some sources define it as being cut in the same fashion as a
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Patterns of
Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction c. 1860–1940
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by Madame Prost, Boulevard des Italiens, Paris, shown with two other dresses.
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was often equipped with tapes to draw up the skirt, and on the topic of the
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by Emile Pingat (1820–1901), Paris. Collection of Shelburne Museum. 2010-75
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862:, Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977.
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Fashion plates with robes à la polonaise, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
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stated that the polonaise was an overdress based on the 18th century
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Fabric of Society: A Century of People and their Clothes 1770–1870,
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The second paragraph quoted describes a specific style of dressing
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Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings
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1914 McCall advertisement featuring a redingote polonaise (left)
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Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700 - 1915
274:, with the bodice cut in one with the gathered-up skirt.
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890:, Batsford (UK), 1986; Holmes & Meier (US), 1987.
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with two separate garments, a bodice and an overskirt:
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were described by contemporaries. A variation on the
948:
Takeda, Sharon Sadako; Spilker, Kaye Durland (2010).
912:
Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820
489:
Music sheet cover showing Dolly Varden outfits, 1872.
152:was a fashionable variant of this style. The name
64:, literally meaning the Polish dress, is a woman's
563:
888:Working Dress: A History of Occupational Clothing
605:
603:
601:
212:
2238:
874:The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914
1017:Robe à la polonaise, Metropolitan Museum of Art
1012:Robe à la polonaise, Metropolitan Museum of Art
623:. Hollywood: Quite Specific Media. p. 37.
80:national dress style, costume, consisting of a
598:
1042:
947:
931:'Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe 1715–1789
1007:Robe à la polonaise, Kyoto Costume Institute
590:: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (
311:'Misses' Polonaise Costume,' September 1883.
546:
410:the addition of high feathered dinner hats.
1049:
1035:
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783:Velvet and silk skirt and polonaise, 1885
682:""The great novelty of the season is the
834:The Meriden Daily Journal - Sep 12, 1917
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216:
121:Close-bodied gown with the skirt draped
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27:
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825:Reading Eagle - Nov 18, 1915, page 11.
618:
431:, detail of Jean-Baptiste Pillement's
36:, literally meaning the Polish dress
2247:History of clothing (Western fashion)
1030:
980:
843:Ottawa Citizen, Sep 30, 1942, page 10
663:"Cabinet of Taste: Costume of Paris"
288:for August 1871 identifies the term
106:As early as the 1720s, French Queen
543:. Takeda and Spilker (2010), p. 79
84:with a cutaway, draped and swagged
13:
473:, May 1868. Green silk dress made
92:. From the 18th century, the term
72:or a similar revival style of the
14:
2278:
1000:
448:Jeune Dame ... vêtue en Polonoise
205:, cut the same but trimmed with "
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903:Fashion in the French Revolution
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114:of 1786) and bunched-up skirts.
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764:"Fashion in the 1870s and '80s"
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352:
966:Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt,
646:
637:
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570:. Michigan, US: Thomson Gale.
562:Pendergast, Sara, Tom (2004).
555:
533:
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500:
319:which was popularly known as "
213:19th century usage and revival
1:
1094:Court dress (Empire of Japan)
849:
762:The Ladies' Treasury (2005).
692:The Ladies' monthly magazine
471:The Ladies' Monthly Magazine
278:also described a 'Polonaise
7:
456:Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
221:Portrait of Mimi Cramer by
10:
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1155:
983:The Cut of Women's Clothes
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933:. Yale University Press.
914:. Yale University Press.
727:, November 1871, page 378
669:. J. Bell. January 1827.
42:Le Rendez-vous pour Marly
929:Ribeiro, Aileen (2002).
910:Ribeiro, Aileen (1995).
901:Ribeiro, Aileen (1988).
494:
243:Ladies' Monthly Magazine
21:Not to be confused with
16:Style of women's garment
814:The Evening Independent
752:, August 1871, page 196
643:Waugh (1968), pp. 72-73
323:" after the heroine of
90:underskirt or petticoat
816:- Nov 12, 1914, page 3
704:Green silk dress, 1868
652:Ribeiro (1998), p. 28.
619:Arnold, Janet (1972).
609:Ribeiro (2002), p. 226
530:Ribeiro (1995), p. 195
433:Les Jardins de Benfica
412:
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203:robe à la circassienne
183:
130:
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32:Two women wearing the
2087:Manchu platform shoes
985:. London: Routledge.
981:Waugh, Norah (1968).
621:Patterns of Fashion I
552:Ribeiro (1995), p. 66
407:
388:
384:Meriden Daily Journal
360:
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310:
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245:published a coloured
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2267:20th-century fashion
2262:19th-century fashion
2257:18th-century fashion
1999:Stephane (headdress)
970:Laura Ashley Press,
740:, July 1871, page 80
112:Fashionable Magazine
102:Origin and structure
68:of the 18th century
2228:Clothing portal
1058:Historical clothing
905:. London: Batsford.
738:Peterson's Magazine
725:Peterson's Magazine
694:, May 1868, page 1.
508:"Polonaise (dress)"
386:in September 1917:
372:Evening Independent
276:Peterson's Magazine
267:Peterson's Magazine
262:robe à la polonaise
199:robe à la polonaise
55:robe à la polonaise
34:robe à la polonaise
788:2013-02-25 at the
512:www.britannica.com
452:Gallerie des Modes
363:
313:
257:for making it up.
241:. In May 1868 the
227:
209:" tassels or fur.
137:which they called
131:
50:
38:Jean-Michel Moreau
2234:
2233:
2072:Episcopal sandals
1337:Close-bodied gown
1239:Sompot Chong Kben
959:978-3-7913-5062-2
886:de Marly, Diana:
872:Ashelford, Jane:
750:Godey's Magazine,
630:978-0-89676-026-4
327:historical novel
223:Albert von Keller
170:robe à l'anglaise
166:robe à l'anglaise
139:robe à l'anglaise
135:close-bodied gown
108:Marie Leszczyńska
23:Polonaise (sauce)
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1387:Zaju chuishao fu
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333:(set in 1780).
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186:Aileen Ribeiro
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1701:Open drawers
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1367:Robe de cour
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2205:Shoe buckle
2132:Accessories
2082:Lotus shoes
1859:Jeongjagwan
1834:French hood
1784:Blessed hat
1706:Pantalettes
1674:Farthingale
1584:Ulster coat
1564:Smock-frock
1477:Houppelande
1267: [
1072:Body-length
125:, c. 1775.
2241:Categories
2175:Lavallière
2092:Pampooties
1849:Gable hood
1726:Union suit
1721:Pettipants
1664:Hoop skirt
1594:Witzchoura
1264:Saragüells
1201:Poet shirt
1119:Justacorps
1109:Frock coat
850:References
769:2010-02-06
517:2008-09-26
458:, 44.1400.
450:, French,
395:After the
264:. In 1871
235:witzchoura
129:, M.70.85.
2150:Cointoise
2145:Belt hook
2140:Ascot tie
2122:Turnshoes
2107:Poulaines
2067:Duckbills
2052:Carbatina
2014:Welsh Wig
1964:Printer's
1924:Mounteere
1914:Mooskappe
1874:Kokoshnik
1759:Arakhchin
1711:Petticoat
1696:Loincloth
1669:Crinoline
1604:Underwear
1542:Shadbelly
1512:Overfrock
1467:Greatcoat
1397:Outerwear
1362:Polonaise
1342:Debutante
1299:Safeguard
1089:Brunswick
721:Gabrielle
717:Polonaise
688:Polonaise
684:Polonaise
586:cite book
541:polonaise
429:Polonaise
290:polonaise
231:polonaise
229:The term
195:polonaise
190:polonaise
174:polonaise
162:polonaise
154:Polonaise
150:polonaise
95:polonaise
86:overskirt
61:polonaise
2102:Pigaches
2062:Chopines
2029:Footwear
1954:Phrygian
1934:Nightcap
1909:Monmouth
1839:Fontange
1819:Cornette
1814:Coonskin
1804:Cavalier
1794:Capotain
1741:Headwear
1716:Peignoir
1637:Corselet
1632:Codpiece
1622:Chausses
1472:Himation
1410:Car coat
1382:Tea gown
1244:Culottes
1234:Breeches
1221:Trousers
1211:Suea pat
1149:Xout lao
786:Archived
454:, 1779.
343:stated:
325:Dickens'
207:oriental
201:was the
158:polonese
48:c. 1777.
2252:Dresses
2190:Partlet
2160:Hairpin
2097:Pattens
2077:Hessian
2047:Caligae
2037:Buskins
2009:Taranga
1994:Smoking
1984:Salakot
1974:Qeleshe
1969:Pudding
1949:Petasos
1944:Pahlavi
1939:Ochipok
1894:Miner's
1884:Malahai
1879:Llawt'u
1799:Caubeen
1779:Bergère
1769:Aviator
1764:Attifet
1679:Pannier
1627:Chemise
1579:Surtout
1574:Surcoat
1569:Spencer
1532:Pelisse
1527:Pallium
1517:Pañuelo
1452:Doublet
1430:Chlamys
1425:Chamail
1324:Dresses
1229:Braccae
1191:Doublet
1181:Bedgown
1124:Paenula
435:, 1785.
415:Gallery
255:pattern
193:French
66:garment
2210:Visard
2165:Hatpin
2042:Calcei
2019:Wimple
2004:Tainia
1959:Pileus
1904:Modius
1869:Kausia
1864:Jewish
1854:Hennin
1829:Fillet
1789:Bonnet
1774:Ba tầm
1659:Garter
1654:Dickey
1642:Corset
1617:Bustle
1612:Basque
1589:Visite
1537:Poncho
1502:Nadiri
1492:Kandys
1487:Jerkin
1462:Exomis
1457:Duster
1447:Dolman
1415:Caraco
1405:Capote
1377:Sailor
1357:Mantua
1352:Kirtle
1332:Bliaut
1304:Sompot
1294:Poodle
1289:Hobble
1281:Skirts
1186:Bodice
1176:Basque
1129:Peplos
1099:Chiton
1084:Banyan
1079:Abolla
989:
974:
956:
937:
918:
894:
880:
866:
627:
574:
280:basque
272:sacque
176:says:
78:Polish
2170:Jabot
2112:Socci
1989:Snood
1929:Nemes
1844:Futou
1824:Dunce
1557:Kullu
1547:Shawl
1522:Palla
1435:Cloak
1314:Train
1271:]
1249:Harem
1144:Tunic
1134:Stola
1114:Hanfu
1104:Frock
495:Notes
127:LACMA
74:1870s
2200:Ruff
2180:Muff
1979:Qing
1809:Coif
1754:Apex
1686:Hose
1347:Gown
1309:Sinh
1206:Sbai
1168:Tops
1139:Toga
987:ISBN
972:ISBN
954:ISBN
935:ISBN
916:ISBN
892:ISBN
878:ISBN
864:ISBN
625:ISBN
592:link
572:ISBN
348:ago.
156:(or
82:gown
52:The
2185:Oes
1899:Mob
1731:Yếm
58:or
2243::
1269:ca
858::
719:,
665:.
600:^
588:}}
584:{{
510:.
40:,
1050:e
1043:t
1036:v
995:.
962:.
943:.
924:.
772:.
633:.
594:)
580:.
520:.
25:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
_LACMA_M.70.85_(10_of_10).jpg)
