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highly dissipative surf zones, shoreward decay of incident waves is accompanied by shoreward growth of infragravity energy; in the inner surf zone, currents associated with infragravity standing waves dominate. On intermediate states with pronounced bar-trough (straight or crescentic) topographies, incident wave orbital velocities are generally dominant but significant roles are also played by subharmonic and infragravity standing waves, longshore currents, and rips. The strongest rips and associated feeder currents occur in association with intermediate transverse bar and rip topographies.
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Reflective beaches are steep, and are known for their coarse sand; they have no surf zone, and the waves break brusquely on the intertidal zone. Reflective beaches are typically steep in profile with a narrow shoaling and surf zone, composed of coarse sediment, and characterised by surging breakers.
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This systems approach to the coast was first developed by Wright and Thom in 1977 and finalized by Wright and Short in 1984. According to their dynamic and morphological characteristics, exposed sandy beaches can be classified into several morphodynamic types (Wright and Short, 1984; Short, 1996).
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While hydrodynamic processes respond instantaneously to morphological change, morphological change requires the redistribution of sediment. As sediment takes a finite time to move, there is a lag in the morphological response to hydrodynamic forcing. Sediment can therefore be considered to be a
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Depending on beach state, near bottom currents show variations in the relative dominance of motions due to: incident waves, subharmonic oscillations, infragravity oscillations, and mean longshore and rip currents. On reflective beaches, incident waves and subharmonic edge waves are dominant. In
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causing reflective beach profiles to flatten (offshore movement of sediment under steeper waves), thus adopting a more dissipative profile. Morphodynamic processes are also associated with other coastal landforms, for example
116:. Morphodynamic processes exhibit positive and negative feedbacks (such that beaches can, over different timescales, be considered to be both self-forcing and self-organised systems), nonlinearities and threshold behaviour.
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Coarser sediment allows percolation during the swash part of the wave cycle, thus reducing the strength of backwash and allowing material to be deposited in the swash zone
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Dodd, Nick; Blondeaux, Paolo; Calvete, Daniel; Swart, Huib E. De; Falqués, Albert; Hulscher, Suzanne J. M. H.; Różyński, Greg; Vittori, Giovanna (2003).
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time-dependent coupling mechanism. Since the boundary conditions of hydrodynamic forcing change regularly, this may mean that the beach never attains
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and dissipate force progressively along wide surf zones. Dissipative beaches are wide and flat in profile, with a wide shoaling and
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There is a large scale of morphodynamic states, this scale ranges from the "dissipative state" to the "reflective extremes".
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is causing changes in the coastal changes and processes that are interconnected with those caused by natural processes.
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Wright, L.D., Short, A.D., 1984. "Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis".
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Dissipative beaches are flat, have fine sand, incorporating waves that tend to break far from the
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that states a
Knowledge editor's personal feelings or presents an original argument about a topic.
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processes, seafloor morphologies, and sequences of change dynamics involving the motion of
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Interaction of shoreline seafloor topography and fluid hydrodynamic processes
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225:"Coastal Morphodynamics and Climate Change: A Review of Recent Advances"
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refers to the study of the interaction and adjustment of the seafloor
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topography on coral reefs and tidal flats in infilling estuaries.
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Transitions between beach states are often caused by changes in
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186:"Understanding Coastal Morphodynamics Using Stability Methods"
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personal reflection, personal essay, or argumentative essay
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Wright, Lynn
Donelson; Thom, Bruce Graham (October 2023).
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276:Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodyanmics
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92:. Hydrodynamic processes include those of
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229:Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
65:Learn how and when to remove this message
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1000:Integrated coastal zone management
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278:. West Sussex, UK: Wiley, 379pp.
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1098:Region of freshwater influence
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860:Large-scale coastal behaviour
692:Beaches in estuaries and bays
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190:Journal of Coastal Research
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153:spur and groove formation
805:Coastal biogeomorphology
702:Coastal morphodynamics
78:Coastal morphodynamics
45:by rewriting it in an
1152:Physical oceanography
1093:Physical oceanography
922:Submergent coastline
875:Marine transgression
830:Discordant coastline
815:Concordant coastline
242:10.3390/jmse11101997
1026:Coastal engineering
274:Short, A.D., 1999.
995:Coastal management
835:Emergent coastline
506:Intertidal wetland
409:Continental margin
47:encyclopedic style
34:is written like a
1147:Coastal geography
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957:Wave-cut platform
870:Marine regression
414:Continental shelf
404:Coastal waterfall
313:Coastal geography
165:Beach nourishment
100:and wind-induced
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855:Ingression coast
850:Graded shoreline
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32:This article
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952:Volcanic arc
840:Feeder bluff
747:River mouths
712:Raised beach
707:Pocket beach
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606:Tidal island
596:Strand plain
541:Natural arch
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262:Bibliography
235:(10): 1997.
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86:hydrodynamic
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1103:River plume
917:Steep coast
890:Rocky shore
885:Rip current
765:River delta
737:Wash margin
732:Storm beach
722:Shell beach
687:Beach wrack
682:Beach ridge
672:Beach cusps
621:Tied island
611:Tidal marsh
334:Archipelago
271:56, 93-118.
144:wave energy
114:equilibrium
1136:Categories
1031:Grain size
1005:Submersion
982:Management
967:Wind fetch
927:Surf break
845:Flat coast
775:regressive
561:Salt marsh
419:Coral reef
171:References
84:and fluid
82:topography
990:Accretion
972:Wind wave
932:Surf zone
787:Processes
760:Mouth bar
717:Recession
697:Beachrock
616:Tide pool
546:Peninsula
434:cliff-top
321:Landforms
251:2077-1312
202:0749-0208
129:surf zone
1121:Category
947:Undertow
900:Sea foam
895:Sea cave
795:Blowhole
637:Windwatt
496:Headland
344:Avulsion
159:See also
102:currents
90:sediment
55:May 2012
1142:Beaches
1071:shingle
1051:granule
1036:boulder
1014:Related
910:peresyp
820:Current
755:Debouch
664:Beaches
631:Waituna
626:Tombolo
536:Mudflat
531:Machair
521:Isthmus
441:Estuary
384:Channel
210:4299224
146:, with
41:Please
1061:pebble
1056:gravel
1046:cobble
591:Strait
571:Skerry
526:Lagoon
511:Island
466:Fundus
369:Bodden
249:
208:
200:
148:storms
942:Swash
905:Shoal
586:Stack
576:Sound
566:Shoal
516:Islet
501:Inlet
491:Hapua
456:Fjord
451:Fjard
446:Firth
394:Coast
389:Cliff
364:Bight
339:Atoll
206:JSTOR
98:tides
94:waves
1076:silt
1066:sand
1041:clay
770:mega
581:Spit
551:Reef
481:Gulf
429:Dune
424:Cove
379:Cape
349:Ayre
247:ISSN
198:ISSN
556:Ria
486:Gut
476:Geo
471:Gat
359:Bay
237:doi
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