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71:
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349:, as the society's organ. From July 1856 through June 1864, that paper carried news of dress reform to subscribers from New England to California and published the names of nearly a thousand women who sent in their names as wearers of the reform dress. A letter-writer from Iowa said it was especially suited for life on the prairie and reported that many women from various parts of the state wore it all the time. Readers from Illinois, Arkansas, Michigan, Wisconsin, Kansas, Nebraska, Dakota, and Oregon attested to its popularity among Western women. In 1860, an English traveler reported meeting a bloomer wearer in Laramie, Wyoming, and a traveler to Pike's Peak reported that "the bloomer costume is considerably in vogue and appears peculiarly adapted to overland travel".
362:
accompany them, and many of these nurses adopted the reform dress for field service. All members of one such corps, organized by Dr. Fedelia Harris Reid of Berlin, Wisconsin, and called the "Wisconsin
Florence Nightengale Union", wore the bloomer not only in the field, but also while caring for patients at a military hospital in St. Louis. Four bloomer wearers were among the nurses who accompanied Minnesota's First Regiment. Dr. Mary E. Walker, who earned the Congressional Medal of Honor for her medical services during the Civil War, wore the reform dress while working in a military hospital in Washington, D.C., as well as for field work. As she accompanied troops in the South, she wrote to the
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276:. This garment originated in late 1849 for the purpose of developing a style of dress for women that was less harmful to their health. Because it was less restricting than the previous attire, the bloomer provided more physical freedom for women. Being a completely new and distinctively different form of dress, the bloomer garment also provided women with a metaphorical freedom, in the sense that it gave women not only more diverse dress options, but also the opportunity and power to choose their type of garment.
341:, one of America's most famous orators in the woman's rights movement during the 1850s, helped popularize the dress by wearing it as she addressed immense audiences in over twenty states, the District of Columbia, and Ontario between 1851 and 1855. She had begun wearing the dress as a health measure while recuperating from typhoid fever during the winter of 1850â51, and she wore it exclusively for three years. In 1856 a National Dress Reform Association organized and one of its officers, Dr.
568:
1346:
554:
124:, a popular health periodical that in October 1849 began urging women to develop a style of dress that was not so harmful to their health as the existing fashion. It also represented an unrestricted movement, unlike previous women's fashions of the time, that allowed for greater freedomâboth metaphorical and physicalâwithin the public sphere. The fashionable dress of that time consisted of a
204:
gave a banquet for any of their female workers who adopted the safer dress before July 4. In Toledo, Ohio, 60 women turned out in
Turkish costume at one of the city's grandest social events. Bloomer balls and bloomer picnics were held; dress reform societies and bloomer institutes were formed. A grand festival in favor of the costume was held at New York City's
51:
269:
and more conventional forms of dress. In similar suit, the Dress Reform
Association which was formed in 1856 called the outfit the "American costume" and focused on its health benefits rather than its political symbolism. Following the American Civil War, interest in the Bloomer costume waned almost completely until its resurgence in the 1890s.
268:
of
Central and South Asia. Crowds gathered to not only hear these women's radical words, but also to see their "scandalous" mode of dress. After three years, however, fearing that the new dress was drawing attention away from the suffragist cause, many of these women returned to corsets, long skirts,
324:
published a woodcarving representing the woman's rights convention held in Akron, Ohio, in May 1851. It depicted every woman in coat, breeches, and high boots, sitting cross-legged and smoking cigars, when in truth not a bloomer was present. Some young women were denied church membership for wearing
319:
Bloomer's promotion of the style as a freedom dress rather than as a health dress did nothing to recommend it to the orthodox clergy and other critics of the woman's rights movement, who denounced the wearing of pants by women as a usurpation of male authority. Associating it with the woman's rights
418:
Bloomers became shorter by the late 1920s. In the 1930s, when it became respectable for women to wear pants and shorts in a wider range of circumstances, styles imitating men's shorts were favored, and bloomers tended to become less common. However, baggy knee-length gym shorts fastened at or above
378:
In 1893, the Woman's
Congress of the World's Columbian Exposition revived interest in the bloomer as an aid in improving women's health through physical exercise. Their session on women's dress opened with Lucy Stone reminiscing about the bloomer movement of the 1850s; her extolling the bloomer as
203:
During the summer of 1851, the nation was seized by a "bloomer craze". Health reformer Mary Gove
Nichols drafted a Declaration of Independence from the Despotism of Parisian Fashion and gathered signatures to it at lectures on woman's dress. Managers of the textile mills in Lowell, Massachusetts,
305:
Feminists, such as
Elizabeth Cady Stanton and many others, essentially claimed that women who took on the "feminist dress" look without being fully knowledgeable of all the accompanying issues were imposters. They were concerned that individuals could demonstrate reform without actually being an
361:
was appointed superintendent of army nurses in June 1861, she issued a statement banning the bloomer from army hospitals and requiring women to abandon it before entering nursing service. But as
Western communities organized battalions of soldiers, they also formed corps of volunteer nurses to
310:
poem, the feeling and element of reform was demonstrated through simplicity and the subtle appreciation of this small step in women's fashion in parallel to a small step for women in general. During the 1850s, feminist reformers were fighting numerous battles to bring about change and further
279:
Some individuals at the time even argued that the
Bloomer dress should be adopted for moral reasons. A reporter noted that a group of "very intelligent appearing, lady-like women" met in Milford, Massachusetts in July 1852. The purpose of this meeting was to consider the propriety of adopting
200:. The next month, Bloomer announced to her readers that she had adopted the dress and, in response to many inquiries, printed a description of her dress and instructions on how to make it. Her circulation rose from 500 to 3,000. By June, many newspapers had dubbed it the "Bloomer dress".
462:
in Tokyo, in response to the styles worn by the foreign women athletes, a newer style of bloomers, pittari, which fit the body closer, similar to volleyball uniforms, became commonplace. Around the mid-1990s, however, schools and individuals began to choose sports shorts instead, citing
208:
in
September. In August, a woman who had spent six months sailing from Philadelphia around the Horn to California with the reform dress packed in her trunk disembarked to find that the dress had preceded her and was being displayed in the window of a San Francisco dress shop.
97:, are divided women's garments for the lower body. They were developed in the 19th century as a healthful and comfortable alternative to the heavy, constricting dresses worn by American women. They take their name from their best-known advocate, the women's rights activist
311:
equality to women everywhere. Feminists believed that it was more important to focus on the issues, and that giving in to fashionable trends was exactly what they were battling against. However, the simple change in popular dress symbolically furthered women's liberation.
221:
and other women delegates wore the new dress to an international peace convention in London. Many newspaper reports were dedicated to the controversy the outfit caused. One prominent figure who began to lecture about the bloomers in London and beyond was
411:") were skirtless baggy knee-length trousers, fastened to the leg a little below the knees; at that time, they were worn by women only in a few narrow contexts of athletic activity, such as bicycle-riding, gymnastics, and sports other than tennis (see
149:
as well as women patients at the nation's health resorts. After wearing the style in private, some began wearing it in public. In the winter and spring of 1851, newspapers across the country carried startled sightings of the dresses.
280:
bloomers. The women unanimously passed a resolution approving the costume, declaring existing fashion to be consistent with "moral evils" and arguing that the bloomer would facilitate women's efforts to engage in good works."
1016:
Kriebl, Karen. "From Bloomers to Flappers: The American Women's Dress Reform Movement, 1840â1920." Electronic Thesis or Dissertation. Ohio State University, 1998. OhioLINK Electronic Theses and Dissertations Center. 18 Apr
510:
226:. When she and her husband later emigrated to Australia, she continued to advocate for dress reform. Although few women are known to have worn the bloomers in Australia, Dexter's continued support led to controversy in
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To assertions that she was the innovator of the dress, Bloomer replied: "The first we heard of it, it was worn as an exercise dress at the Water-Cures; the first article we saw advocating it was an editorial in the
746:, , which article we transferred to our columns; the first person we saw wearing such a dress was Mrs. Charles D. Miller of Peterboro, daughter of Gerrit Smith, who has worn it for the last five or six months",
329:
reprinted a cartoon and article from a London newspaper ridiculing the American dress, one month after it had printed a sketch of the "Oriental Costume" and pronounced it tasteful, elegant, and graceful.
153:
The wearing of bloomersâa woman wearing pants, a men's garmentâwas a question of power. The symbolism of bloomers was enormous. Men felt threatened by them, and sometimes disparaged women wearing them as
926:
The Book of Days: A Miscellany of Popular Antiquities in Connection with the Calendar, Including Anecdote, Biography, & History, Curiosities of Literature and Oddities of Human Life and Character
732:
Elizabeth Cady Stanton's husband wrote to her, asking, "How does Lib Miller look in her new Turkish dress?" Henry B. Stanton to Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Stanton Papers, Library of Congress, Film 1:68.
482:
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donned the bloomer during her famous bicycle trip around the world, and an updated version of the bloomer soon became the standard "bicycle dress" for women during the bicycle craze of the 1890s.
325:
the dress. Public meetings were called to put down the fad, and the very same newspapers that had previously praised the dress began ridiculing and condemning "Bloomerism". In August 1851,
530:" or "directoire knickers"). They were most popular from the 1910s to the 1930s but continued to be worn by older women for several decades thereafter. More recently, the term
264:âwho adopted the new form of dress also advocated women's right to vote. These women preferred to call their new style the "freedom dress", a two-piece outfit similar to the
132:
stiffened with straw or horsehair sewn into the hems. In addition to the heavy skirts, prevailing fashion called for a "long waist" effect, achieved with a whale-bone-fitted
143:, and all including some form of pants. By the summer of 1850, various versions of a short skirt and trousers, or "Turkish dress", were being worn by readers of the
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the "cleanest, neatest, most comfortable and most sensible garment" she had ever worn; and young women modeling different versions of the dress. The following year
104:
The name "bloomers" was derogatory and was not used by the women who wore them, who referred to their clothes as the "Reform Costume" or the "American Dress."
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the knees continued to be worn by girls in school physical education classes through to the 1950s in some areas. Some schools in New York City and
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that New Orleans women of wealth and standing had worn it to Haiti and Cuba. The dress was still being worn by members of the utopian
170:
In a reversal of gender roles, a "bloomer" asks her fiancé's shocked father for consent to marry his son: satirical cartoon from 1852
498:
1027:
Fischer, Gayle V. (Spring 1997). "Pantalets and Turkish Trowsers: Designing Freedom in the Mid-Nineteenth-Century United States".
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Stevenson, Ana (2017). "'Bloomers' and the British World: Dress Reform in Transatlantic and Antipodean Print Culture, 1851â1950".
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worn below a long flaring tunic, but this attempted revival of fashion bloomers under another name did not catch on.
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438:, despite being an all-male team, was tagged with the nickname "Bloomers" for several decades in the early 1900s.
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in 1867 but gradually it was abandoned by all but a very few stalwart wearers willing to defy society's mores.
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still wore them as part of their uniforms into the 1980s. In Japan their use persisted into the early 2000s.
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Women's baggy underpants fastened to just below or above the knee are also known as "bloomers" (or as "
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Urwin, Tiffany (2000). "Dexter, Dextra, Dextrum: The Bloomer Costume on the British Stage in 1851".
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415:). Bloomers were usually worn with stockings and after 1910 often with a sailor middy blouse.
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The Bloomer became a symbol of women's rights in the early 1850s. The same womenâ
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Noun, Louise, "Amelia Bloomer, A Biography, Part I, The Lily of Seneca Falls",
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During the late 19th century, athletic bloomers (also known as "rationals" or "
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In the 1850s, the "bloomer" was a physical and metaphorical representation of
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Pantaloons and Power: Nineteenth-Century Dress Reform in the United States
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And now I'm dressed like a little girl, in a dress both loose and short,
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that dragged several inches on the floor, worn over layers of starched
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Ballots, Bloomers and Marmalade. The Life of Elizabeth Smith Miller
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Ballots, Bloomers and Marmalade. The Life of Elizabeth Smith Miller
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Women in pants : manly maidens, cowgirls, and other renegades
454:(ăă«ăăŒ), bloomers were introduced in Japan as women's clothing for
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Bicycles, Bangs, and Bloomers: The New Woman in the Popular Press
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Women responded with a variety of costumes, many inspired by the
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Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850â1920: Politics, Health, and Art
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And when I get a little strength, some work I think I can do,
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Women in pants: manly maidens, cowgirls, and other renegades
345:, who had worn the dress since 1849, established a journal,
291:'Twill give me health and comfort, and make me useful too.
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Oh with what freedom I can sing, and walk all 'round about!
50:
981:. Kent, Ohio: Kent State University Press. pp. 79â80.
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worn by women and girls in the early 19th century and the
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Interest in the bloomers was also sparked in England when
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1323:. Kent, Ohio: Kent State University Press. Libris lÀnk.
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Heavens on earth: Utopian Communes in America, 1680â1880
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An example of late 19th-century athletic bloomers: the
929:. Vol. 2. London: W. & R. Chambers. pp.
953:"When American Suffragists Tried to 'Wear the Pants'"
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concerns. Some people are interested in bloomers in
827:Tinling, Marian, "Bloomerism Comes to California",
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516:Gymnasts in Stockholm, Sweden. Early 20th century.
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1251:, University of Hawaii Press, 2001, pp. 93ff.
1061:, 7 (winter 1985), pp. 598â99; Tinling, p. 24.
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120:Bloomers were an innovation of readers of the
1031:. Vol. 23, no. 1. pp. 110â40.
992:Greig, Catherine Smith & Cynthia (2003).
647:Greig, Catherine Smith & Cynthia (2003).
534:has often been used interchangeably with the
107:
951:Chrisman-Campbell, Kimberly (12 June 2019).
1173:, May 1, June 1 and 15, July 15, Oct., 1861
542:of the mid 19th and early 20th centuries.
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1270:Social History of Bloomers: a Vision to
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996:. New York: H. N. Abrams. p. 28.
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1392:History of clothing (Western fashion)
1227:, University Press of Kentucky, 1990.
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651:. New York: H.N. Abrams. p. 28.
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504:1890s caricature of athletic bloomers
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1302:"So, What the Heck Is That? Buruma"
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617:
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381:Annie "Londonderry" Cohen Kopchovsky
1199:, Dover Publications, 1966, p. 192.
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586:The Bloomers were supported by the
116:1851 caricature of fashion bloomers
24:
244:Bloomer Costume (Robert Chambers,
182:, wore the "Turkish dress" to the
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588:National Dress Reform Association
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1319:Cunningham, Patricia A. (2003).
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890:Cultural & Social History
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492:class of 1902 basketball team
398:Athletic bloomers (unskirted)
306:expert in the issues. In the
540:open-leg knee-length drawers
475:Gallery of athletic bloomers
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1140:, July 15, 1859, pp. 588â89
545:
315:Opposition to Bloomer dress
158:" or "male impersonators".
10:
1428:
1310:, 17 February 2011, p. 14.
1268:Ichiro Takahashi, et al.,
1249:Japanese sports: a history
1182:"Letter from Dr. Walker",
977:Fischer, Gayle V. (2001).
867:10.1177/174837270002800201
855:Nineteenth Century Theatre
386:In 1909, fashion designer
108:Fashion bloomers (skirted)
36:
29:
1124:, March 14, 1856, p. 44;
1071:History of Woman Suffrage
923:Chambers, Robert (1864).
582:Knickerbockers (clothing)
229:The Sydney Morning Herald
60:
48:
32:Bloomers (disambiguation)
704:Dann, Norman K. (2016).
691:, March, May, June 1851.
618:Dann, Norman K. (2016).
390:attempted to popularize
300:magazine, April 15, 1859
74:A pair of bloomers, 1981
1112:, pp. 114, 135, 159â62.
806:, Aug., Oct., Nov. 1851
403:19th and 20th centuries
322:New York Sunday Mercury
55:1850s' fashion bloomers
27:Type of women's garment
1387:Clothing controversies
1237:http://www.chaipin.edu
1083:New York Daily Tribune
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254:Elizabeth Cady Stanton
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184:Seneca Falls, New York
176:Elizabeth Smith Miller
171:
117:
75:
39:Victorian dress reform
1186:, Nov. 1862, p. 1092.
1089:, July 8, 1851, p. 6.
831:61 (spring 1982): 21.
794:, August 1851, p. 60.
744:Seneca County Courier
436:minor league baseball
428:Bloomington, Illinois
374:Bloomers and bicycles
343:Lydia Sayer Hasbrouck
282:
243:
169:
162:Bloomer craze of 1851
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73:
1377:20th-century fashion
1372:19th-century fashion
1353:at Wikimedia Commons
1152:, July, August, 1856
1128:, April 1856, p. 81.
762:, July 1851, p. 124.
460:1964 Summer Olympics
334:Bloomers in the West
141:pantaloons of Turkey
30:For other uses, see
1208:"Dress Her Theme",
778:, July 1851, p. 53.
750:, June 1851, p. 45.
712:: Log Cabin Books.
626:: Log Cabin Books.
458:in 1903. After the
219:Hannah Tracy Cutler
206:Broadway Tabernacle
180:Peterboro, New York
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18:Bloomers (clothing)
1300:Gordenker, Alice,
1272:Physical Education
1126:Water-Cure Journal
829:California History
816:Water-Cure Journal
710:Hamilton, New York
672:Water-Cure Journal
624:Hamilton, New York
590:, founded in 1856.
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213:Bloomers in London
174:In February 1851,
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146:Water-Cure Journal
122:Water-Cure Journal
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76:
43:
1382:American clothing
1349:Media related to
1283:, 2005, chap. 4.
1221:Marks, Patricia,
1104:. Praeger, 2003.
1098:Million, Joelle,
788:Toledo Republican
442:Bloomers in Japan
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388:Paul Poiret
83:the bloomer
1402:Sportswear
1361:Categories
1329:0873387422
936:3 December
605:References
339:Lucy Stone
258:Lucy Stone
192:temperance
186:, home of
130:petticoats
37:See also:
1281:Seikyƫsha
1274:for Women
1184:The Sibyl
1171:The Sibyl
1150:The Sibyl
1138:The Sibyl
1122:Liberator
1073:, 1: 815.
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875:193319585
760:Liberator
471:context.
446:Known as
347:The Sibyl
298:The Sibyl
194:journal,
64:Underwear
1412:Uniforms
1351:Bloomers
962:26 April
546:See also
532:bloomers
528:knickers
295:â
197:The Lily
190:and her
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465:modesty
248:, 1864)
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260:, and
134:corset
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1041:JSTOR
1017:2014.
906:S2CID
871:S2CID
364:Sibyl
357:When
308:Sibyl
126:skirt
1325:ISBN
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1106:ISBN
1087:Lily
998:ISBN
964:2023
938:2018
841:Lily
804:Lily
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