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on this design including DMM's "cardiac arrester" which does the same thing but in which the larger loop is shaped like a heart. It is designed to help stop rope twisting. Figure eights, although not the most common belay device, are still frequently found in use. For most uses, a tubular style belay device is easier and safer to use. However, due to their tendency to twist rope and general disagreement about their safety, figure eights are often banned in climbing gyms.
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141:. It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. Belay devices act as a friction brake, so that when a climber falls with any slack in the rope, the fall is brought to a stop.
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the rope from passing through the belay device. The terms "self-" or "auto-locking" are discouraged, because it is necessary to always keep the brake hand on the rope, there being conditions outside the correct function of braking. For example, icy, muddy, worn, or too-thin of a rope, and insufficient training and experience.
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techniques for instructing new belayers. GRIGRI's reportedly give a harder catch than a regular belay device because they allow little to no rope slippage when catching a fall. On the upside, this is offset by the fact that the person being belayed falls a shorter distance. They are a proprietary design by
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Using a Grigri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices because the Grigri gives a more static catch with little to no rope slippage. This increases the amount of force exerted on the anchor which, in turn, increases the chance of anchor failure.
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One of the most popular devices, a Grigri, when properly used, assists in braking the rope with a camming device that clamps the rope in the event of a fall. Because of the braking mechanism, modified belay techniques are widely used, though Petzl, the device's manufacturer, has approved only certain
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Sometimes just called an "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender. A figure eight belay devices are used for belaying. There are some which are designed specifically for belaying, however they are not generally popular due to the tendency to twist the rope. There are also variations
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Under the right conditions, assisted braking devices (ABDs) use a sudden load on the rope to engage a camming mechanism (known as active, or mechanically assisted braking devices) or pull the belay carabiner into a pinch point (known as passive, or geometrically assisted braking devices) to prevent
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An auto-belay device may operate using friction, centrifugal force, hydraulics, or magnetic braking technology. Auto-belay devices using magnetism as the main breaking mechanism are currently the most used, as they are self regulating. When a climber descends on a magnetic auto-belay, the speed of
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Some plates had two slots for double ropes. The slots could also be different sizes for different diameter ropes e.g. 9 mm and 11 mm. A wide wire spring may be attached on one side to help keep the plate away from the brake carabiner to ease feeding and taking in rope. A smaller hole is
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A similar device to the traditional tubular belay device which has two extra loops; normally situated on the front and back of the device. When the device is attached directly to an anchor point with the use of a second carabiner through the larger of the two loops it performs a similar stopping
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Also called a "tube", this type of device generally has a tubular or rectangular shape. It is an evolution of the Sticht plate's concept by creating more surface area to dissipate heat and the ability to create sharper angles which creates a stronger degree of friction which has greater stopping
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Typically, when the rope is held outward, away from the body, it moves relatively freely, so the belayer can take up or pay out slack. When the rope is brought backward, to the side of the body, the rope is forced into tight bends and rubs against the device and/or against itself, allowing the
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belayer to arrest the descent of a climber in the case of a fall. This rubbing slows the rope, but also generates heat. Some types of belay devices can arrest a fall without the belayer taking any action, while others require the belayer to hold or pull the rope in a particular direction.
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The Revo combines the easy and dynamic handling of a tuber with the backup by a centrifugal brake. Paying out and taking in rope works fluently without resistance. Only when the rope rushes with a faster speed than 4 metre/second through the device, it arrests within a few centimetres.
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where the climber wears the belay device, or secures it to a fixed object on the ground. These devices automatically lock without any intervention when the rope passing through reaches a sufficient velocity (during a fall), but allow rope to move relatively freely whilst climbing.
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A guide plate, also known as an auto-blocking belay device, is a metal plate with an elongated slot for the bight to go through and then a carabiner is attached so that when pull from the climber occurs the carabiner will be pulled to lock off the device. Examples include the
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Although any belaying plate with one or two slots is often called a Sticht plate, Fritz Sticht originally patented the design with
Hermann Huber for Salewa GmbH in 1970, who sold it as the Salewa Sticht Bremse (Sticht Brake).
212:. It consists of a small metal plate with a slot that allows a bight of rope to pass through to a locking carabiner and back out. This locking carabiner is clipped to the belayer who is then able to lock the rope at will.
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Many belay devices can be used to control either one rope, or two ropes in parallel. There are many reasons why the two-rope option might be chosen by a climber, including the consideration of reducing
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often present for accessory cord to carry the device. Sticht plates are typically forged from aluminium alloy in a round disc shape, although other shapes such as rounded rectangles were also made.
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devices belay climbers automatically, without needing a second person. While used by solo climbers outdoors, such devices are most commonly found hanging on or fixed to an artificially made
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power. As a result, this is generally the most common type of belay device used. The most common form of this kind of tubular belay device is the ATC, an acronym for "air traffic control".
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The original
Grigris rated for 10 to 11 mm single ropes, while the newer, smaller Grigri 2 is rated for 8.9 to 11 mm single ropes and optimized for 9.4 to 10.3 mm ropes.
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Sticht plates have become less popular since more modern designs provide smoother control over the rope and are less prone to jamming, especially when doubling as a descender.
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function to that created with the guide plate. The device is also able to be used as a standard tubular device when belaying from the harness.
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There aren't any auto-lockng belay devices outside of climbing walls because the "official" term is assisted locking braking device
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sells a similar assisted braking belay device called the Cinch that is rated to work on ropes from 9.4 to 11 mm.
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hence the proper phrase used for these devices—"assisted braking" rather than "self-locking."
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devices on the market which allow a climber to climb solo in their climbing gym.
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The Sticht plate was the first mechanical rope brake, named after its designer,
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Besides arresting the fall of a climber, these devices can also be used for
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http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Belay-devices--descenders/GRIGRI-2#descriptif
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Belay devices usually attach to the harness of the belayer via a
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and then hook it into a locking carabiner on the harness.
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their descent is proportional to the climbers weight.
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Federación Española de
Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
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International
Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
625:"How Do Auto Belays Work: What's Going on in There?"
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49:. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.
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460:Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (2003).
2082:International Federation of Sport Climbing
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466:(7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers.
392:Self-belay devices are designed to allow
109:Learn how and when to remove this message
463:Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
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592:Description of GRIGRI-2 at petzl.com
47:adding citations to reliable sources
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388:"Silent Partner" self-belay device.
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188:(loop) of rope through a hole or
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573:"Autoblocking Belay Devices"
365:Wild Country (Oberalp) Revo.
296:Reverso (climbing equipment)
125:Petzl Reverso, Verso, GRIGRI
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1926:Mountain Safety Research
1921:Mountain Equipment Co-op
605:. Head Rush Technologies
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2031:Club Alpino Italiano
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661:at Wikimedia Commons
43:improve this article
2026:Club Alpin Français
1400:Mountaineering boot
1013:Piolet d'Or winners
524:. 30 September 2016
380:Self-locking device
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603:"Why Auto Belay?"
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711:Rock climbing
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473:0-89886-828-9
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410:climbing wall
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394:solo climbing
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304:Petzl Reverso
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204:Sticht plate.
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63:
60: –
59:
55:
54:Find sources:
48:
44:
38:
37:
32:This article
30:
26:
21:
20:
2158:
2146:
2134:
2122:
2066:USA Climbing
1966:Wild Country
1961:Therm-a-Rest
1803:
1796:
1789:
1782:
1777:The Alpinist
1775:
1757:
1750:
1743:
1736:
1729:
1722:
1715:
1708:
1701:
1694:
1656:Campus board
1611:First ascent
1355:Ice and snow
1152:Belay device
1151:
1003:Alpine clubs
963:Ropes course
876:Alpine style
659:Belay device
633:. Retrieved
628:
619:
607:. Retrieved
597:
585:
577:the original
567:
559:
553:. Retrieved
549:
540:
532:
526:. Retrieved
521:
512:
493:
482:
461:
455:
414:
404:
391:
368:
345:
338:
330:
327:Petzl Grigri
307:
280:
271:
262:
251:Figure eight
242:
238:
222:
218:
214:
210:Fritz Sticht
207:
196:Sticht plate
183:
166:
158:
147:
143:
131:belay device
130:
128:
105:
96:
86:
79:
72:
65:
53:
41:Please help
36:verification
33:
2160:WikiProject
1996:Alpine Club
1991:Access Fund
1901:Lowe Alpine
1896:La Sportiva
1633:Fall factor
1526:Self-arrest
1502:Redpointing
1425:Snow anchor
1179:Boulder mat
1128:Daisy chain
1098:Terminology
1089:Terminology
968:Rooftopping
910:Hillwalking
898:Dry-tooling
864:Via ferrata
777:Traditional
755:Competition
736:Multi-pitch
719:Disciplines
277:Guide plate
2176:Categories
1784:El Capitan
1548:Traversing
1497:Onsighting
1477:Glissading
1460:Dülfersitz
1455:Australian
1418:Transeiver
1363:Alpenstock
1296:Portaledge
1284:Copperhead
1223:Descenders
1157:Auto belay
948:Commercial
928:Buildering
905:Scrambling
815:Rock types
806:Top roping
743:Bouldering
635:2022-05-27
555:2018-03-31
528:2018-03-31
499:US2628653A
447:References
406:Auto-belay
401:Auto-belay
374:Self-belay
245:rappelling
169:auto-belay
99:March 2024
69:newspapers
1936:Patagonia
1819:Companies
1805:Hard Grit
1798:Free Solo
1666:MoonBoard
1661:Hangboard
1647:Training
1596:Guidebook
1571:Ape index
1536:Rope team
1450:Abseiling
1395:Ice screw
1301:Quickdraw
1184:Carabiner
1106:Equipment
1084:Technique
1050:Equipment
933:Canyoning
871:Himalayan
799:Rope solo
789:Free solo
286:by Kong.
162:rope drag
154:abseiling
150:carabiner
2136:Category
1983:National
1881:JanSport
1856:Five Ten
1731:Desnivel
1724:Climbing
1703:Alpinist
1628:Exposure
1606:Chipping
1553:Tyrolean
1543:Spotting
1514:Crevasse
1492:Flashing
1482:Jumaring
1467:Belaying
1430:Snowshoe
1388:Ice tool
1378:Crampons
1228:Figure-8
1140:Ascender
1008:Climbers
748:Highball
731:Big wall
696:Climbing
436:Climbing
426:Belaying
420:See also
190:aperture
180:Aperture
139:belaying
2148:Commons
2102:(UIMLA)
2096:(UIAGM)
1487:Leading
1404:Rescue
1383:Ice axe
1333:Camalot
1267:Lanyard
1250:Skyhook
1235:Harness
1206:Dynamic
1189:Maillon
1162:Glasses
1043:Everest
1034:Deaths
953:Parkour
609:7 March
227:Tubular
83:scholar
2124:Portal
2090:(UIAA)
2084:(IFSC)
1916:Millet
1906:Mammut
1871:Grivel
1841:Deuter
1759:Summit
1643:Guides
1638:Grades
1509:Rescue
1443:Action
1345:Tricam
1311:Grigri
1257:Hammer
1211:Static
1167:Gloves
1135:Anchor
1055:Brands
859:Alpine
505:
470:
341:Trango
319:Grigri
313:Grigri
85:
78:
71:
64:
56:
1941:Petzl
1891:Kelty
1681:Media
1616:Pitch
1581:Clean
1564:Other
1413:RECCO
1340:Shoes
1328:SLCDs
1323:Sling
1291:Piton
1240:Hooks
1218:Chalk
1145:Croll
1123:Aider
1060:Knots
996:Lists
978:Slide
943:Grass
938:Crane
921:Other
893:Mixed
822:Crack
772:Sport
760:Speed
703:Types
334:Petzl
186:bight
175:Types
90:JSTOR
76:books
1831:CAMP
1621:Topo
1591:Beta
1519:Self
1316:Revo
1306:SLDs
1245:Fifi
1201:Cord
1174:Bolt
1115:Rock
983:Tree
958:Pole
837:Slab
832:Roof
827:Face
784:Solo
767:Free
611:2014
468:ISBN
351:Revo
284:GiGi
62:news
1951:REI
1946:Rab
1279:Nut
1272:PAC
1262:Hex
888:Ice
726:Aid
45:by
2178::
627:.
558:.
548:.
531:.
520:.
412:.
336:.
164:.
129:A
688:e
681:t
674:v
638:.
613:.
476:.
112:)
106:(
101:)
97:(
87:·
80:·
73:·
66:·
39:.
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