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2320:, the leash can be a cause of drowning by snagging on a reef or other object and holding the surfer underwater. By keeping the surfboard close to the surfer during a wipeout, a leash also increases the chances that the board may strike the rider, which could knock them unconscious and lead to drowning (especially with a hard surfboard instead of a soft surfboard). A fallen rider's board can become trapped in larger waves, and if the rider is attached by a leash, they can be dragged for long distances underwater. Surfers should be careful to remain in smaller surf until they have acquired the advanced skills and experience necessary to handle bigger waves and more challenging conditions. Even world-class surfers have drowned in extremely challenging conditions.
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1264:, located in Miyazaki, Japan, was an example of a surfable wave pool. Able to generate waves with up to 3 m (10 ft) faces, the specialized pump held water in 20 vertical tanks positioned along the back edge of the pool. This allowed the waves to be directed as they approach the artificial sea floor. Lefts, Rights, and A-frames could be directed from this pump design providing for rippable surf and barrel rides. The Ocean Dome cost about $ 2 billion to build and was expensive to maintain. The Ocean Dome was closed in 2007. In England, construction is nearing completion on the Wave, situated near
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training, such as skateboard simulations, offers a way to practice maneuvers repeatedly, refining techniques with the guidance of professional coaches either in person or remotely using video analysis apps. The most popular surf locations offer perfect surfing conditions for beginners, as well as challenging breaks for advanced students. The ideal conditions for learning would be small waves that crumble and break softly, as opposed to the steep, fast-peeling waves desired by more experienced surfers. When available, a sandy seabed is generally safer.
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the horizontal projection of the point of break over time, which in a regular break is most easily represented by the line of white water left after the break. A break that closes out, or breaks all at once along its length, leaves white water parallel to the wave front, and has a peel angle of 0°. This is unsurfable as it would require infinite speed to progress along the face fast enough to keep up with the break. A break which advances along the wave face more slowly will leave a line of new white water at an angle to the line of the wave face.
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they pass over the sediment wedge formation. An example of a Type 1 jetty is
Mission Beach, San Diego, California. This 1000-meter jetty was installed in 1950 at the mouth of Mission Bay. The surf waves happen north of the jetty, are longer waves, and are powerful. The bathymetry of the sea bottom in Mission Bay has a wedge shape formation that causes the waves to refract as they become closer to the jetty. The waves converge constructively after they refract and increase the sizes of the waves.
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breaking waves. Although many rip currents are much smaller, the largest rip currents have a width of 12â15 m (40â50 ft). The flow of water moving out towards the sea in a rip will be stronger than most swimmers, making swimming back to shore difficult, however, by paddling parallel to the shore, a surfer can easily exit a rip current. Alternatively, some surfers actually ride on a rip current because it is a fast and effortless way to get out beyond the zone of breaking waves.
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1525:). Take-off positioning requires experience at predicting the wave set and where it will break. The surfer must pop up quickly as soon as the wave starts pushing the board forward. Preferred positioning on the wave is determined by experience at reading wave features including where the wave is breaking. Balance plays a crucial role in standing on a surfboard. Thus, balance training exercises are good preparation. Practicing with a
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563:, based on his experiences in Polynesia earlier that decade, the narrator describes the "Rare Sport at Ohonoo" (title of chap. 90): âFor this sport, a surf-board is indispensable: some five feet in length; the width of a man's body; convex on both sides; highly polished; and rounded at the ends. It is held in high estimation; invariably oiled after use; and hung up conspicuously in the dwelling of the owner.â When
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631:, Ghana in 1834 CE: âFrom the beach, meanwhile, might be seen boys swimming into the sea, with light boards under their stomachs. They waited for a surf; and came rolling like a cloud on top of it. But I was told that sharks occasionally dart in behind the rocks and âyamâ them.â Thomas Hutchinson provided an account of surfing in southern
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barrel waves. Barrel waves are large because the water depth is small when the wave breaks. Thus, the breaker intensity (or force) increases, and the wave speed and height increase. Off-shore winds produce non-surfable conditions by flattening a weak swell. Weak swell is made from surface gravity forces and has long wavelengths.
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ride. Viewed from the shore, the tube rider may disappear from view as the wave breaks over the rider's head. The longer the surfer remains in the tube, the more successful the ride. This is referred to as getting tubed, barrelled, shacked or pitted. Some of the world's best-known waves for tube riding include
Pipeline on the
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components of surf breaks are the ramp, platform, wedge, or ledge that may be present at a surf break. Macro-scale processes are the global winds that initially produce offshore waves. Types of surf breaks are headlands (point break), beach break, river/estuary entrance bar, reef breaks, and ledge breaks.
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is a rare spinal cord injury causing paralysis of the lower extremities, caused by hyperextension of the back. This is due to one of the main blood vessels of the spine becoming kinked, depriving the spinal cord of oxygen. In some cases the paralysis is permanent. Although any activity where the back
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Ear plugs designed for surfers, swimmers and other water athletes are primarily made to keep water out of the ear, thereby letting a protective pocket of air stay inside the ear canal. They can also block cold air, dirt and bacteria. Many designs are made to let sound through, and either float and/or
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The wave size at "The Poles" depends on the direction of the incoming water. When easterly waters (from 55°) interact with the jetty, they create waves larger than southern waters (from 100°). When southern waves (from 100°) move toward "The Poles", one of the waves breaks north of the southern jetty
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or point break interacts with the water by causing refraction around the point or headland. The point absorbs the high-frequency waves and long-period waves persist, which are easier to surf. Examples of locations that have headland or point break-induced surf breaks are
Dunedin (New Zealand), Raglan
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The surf zone is the place of convergence of multiple waves types creating complex wave patterns. A wave suitable for surfing results from maximum speeds of 5 metres per second (16 ft/s). This speed is relative because local onshore winds can cause waves to break. In the surf zone, shallow water
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on the bottom of the wave, which decreases the celerity (or the speed of the waveform), and causes refraction. Slowing the wave forces it to shorten which increases the height and steepness, and the top (crest) falls because the velocity of the top of the wave becomes greater than the velocity of the
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The waves created in the open ocean are classified as deep-water waves. Deep-water waves have no bottom interaction and the orbits of these water molecules are circular; their wavelength is short relative to water depth and the velocity decays before reaching the bottom of the water basin. Deep water
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and variable-flex composites in conjunction with fiberglass and epoxy or polyester resins. Since epoxy/EPS surfboards are generally lighter, they will float better than a traditional PU/PE board of similar size, shape and thickness. This makes them easier to paddle and faster in the water. However, a
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Airs/Aerials: These maneuvers have been becoming more and more prevalent in the sport in both competition and free surfing. An air is when the surfer can achieve enough speed and approach a certain type of section of a wave that is supposed to act as a ramp and launch the surfer above the lip line of
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Standup surfing begins when the surfer paddles toward shore in an attempt to match the speed of the wave (the same applies whether the surfer is standup paddling, bodysurfing, boogie-boarding or using some other type of watercraft, such as a waveski or kayak). Once the wave begins to carry the surfer
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of 300 cm (10 ft) causes more friction with the water; therefore, it will be slower than a smaller and lighter board with a length of 180 cm (6 ft). Longer boards are good for beginners who need help balancing. Smaller boards are good for more experienced surfers who want to have
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An example of a type 2 jetty is called "The Poles" in
Atlantic Beach, Florida. Atlantic Beach is known to have flat waves, with exceptions during major storms. However, "The Poles" has larger than normal waves due to a 500-meter jetty that was installed on the south side of St. Johns. This jetty was
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Table 1 shows a relationship of smaller peel angles correlating with a higher skill level of the surfer. Smaller wave peel angles increase the velocities of waves. A surfer must know how to react and paddle quickly to match the speed of the wave to catch it. Therefore, more experience is required to
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Wave breaking intensity measures the force of the wave as it breaks, spills, or plunges (a plunging wave is termed by surfers as a "barrel wave"). Wave section length is the distance between two breaking crests in a wave set. Wave section length can be hard to measure because local winds, non-linear
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to provide maximum warmth without compromising mobility. In recent years, there have been advancements in technology that have allowed surfers to pursue even bigger waves with added elements of safety. Big wave surfers are now experimenting with inflatable vests or colored dye packs to help decrease
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Typical surfing instruction is best-performed one-on-one, but can also be done in a group setting. Post-COVID, there's been a shift towards online and land-based surf coaching and training. Online surf coaching is allowing surfers to learn at their own pace and convenience from anywhere. Land-based
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The tube ride is considered to be the ultimate maneuver in surfing. As a wave breaks, if the conditions are ideal, the wave will break in an orderly line from the middle to the shoulder, enabling the experienced surfer to position themselves inside the wave as it is breaking. This is known as a tube
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There are two main types of artificial waves that exist today. One being artificial or stationary waves which simulate a moving, breaking wave by pumping a layer of water against a smooth structure mimicking the shape of a breaking wave. Because of the velocity of the rushing water, the wave and the
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A reef break is conducive to surfing because large waves consistently break over the reef. The reef is usually made of coral, and because of this, many injuries occur while surfing reef breaks. However, the waves that are produced by reef breaks are some of the best in the world. Famous reef breaks
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is an area with an obstruction or an object that causes a wave to break. Surf breaks entail multiple scale phenomena. Wave section creation has microscale factors of peel angle and wave breaking intensity. The micro-scale components influence wave height and variations on wave crests. The mesoscale
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Tube speed is the rate of advance of the break along the length of the wave, and is the speed at which the surfer must move along the wave to keep up with the advance of the tube. Tube speed can be described using the peel angle and wave celerity. Peel angle is the angle between the wave front and
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In 1907, the eclectic interests of land developer Abbot Kinney (founder of Venice of
America, now Venice, California) helped bring Freeth to California. Freeth had sought the help of the Hawaii Promotion Committee (HPC) in Honolulu to sponsor him on a trip to California to give surfing exhibitions.
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can pose a risk for surfers. If a surfer falls while riding a wave, the wave tosses and tumbles the surfer around, often in a downwards direction. At reef breaks and beach breaks, surfers have been seriously injured and even killed, because of a violent collision with the sea bed, the water above
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The first classification is a type 1 jetty. This type of jetty is significantly longer than the surf zone width and the waves break at the shore end of the jetty. The effect of a Type 1 jetty is sediment accumulation in a wedge formation on the jetty. These waves are large and increase in size as
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A ledge break is formed by steep rocks ledges that make intense waves because the waves travel through deeper water then abruptly reach shallower water at the ledge. Shark Island, Australia is a location with a ledge break. Ledge breaks create difficult surfing conditions, sometimes only allowing
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A beach break is an area of open coastline where the waves break over a sand-bottom. They are the most common, yet also the most volatile of surf breaks. Wave breaks happen successively at beach breaks, as in there are multiple peaks to surf at a single beach break location. Example locations are
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to form waves that gradually gain speed and distance (fetch). Waves increase in energy and speed and then become longer and stronger. The fully-developed sea has the strongest wave action that experiences storms lasting 10-hours and creates 15 m (49.2 ft) wave heights in the open ocean.
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or "softboards". The softboard is considered the ideal surfboard for learning, due to the fact it is safer, and has more paddling speed and stability than shorter boards. Funboards are also a popular shape for beginners as they combine the volume and stability of the longboard with the manageable
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The parameters breaking wave height, wave peel angle (α), and wave breaking intensity, and wave section length are important because they are standardized by past oceanographers who researched surfing; these parameters have been used to create a guide that matches the type of wave formed and the
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To address these limitations, training in a skate bowl is recommended. Skate bowls can offer a more realistic simulation of the centrifugal forces experienced while surfing. This type of training helps in developing better control and style by replicating the curved, wave-like shapes and motions
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Many popular surfing destinations have surf schools and surf camps that offer lessons. Surf camps for beginners and intermediates are multi-day lessons that focus on surfing fundamentals. They are designed to take new surfers and help them become proficient riders. All-inclusive surf camps offer
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Waves suitable for surfing break as spilling or plunging types, and when they also have a suitable peel angle, their value for surfing is enhanced. Other factors such as wave height and period, and wind strength and direction can also influence steepness and intensity of the break, but the major
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are water channels that flow away from the shore. Under the wrong circumstances these currents can endanger both experienced and inexperienced surfers. Since a rip current appears to be an area of flat water, tired or inexperienced swimmers or surfers may enter one and be carried out beyond the
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Rip currents can be extremely strong and narrow as they extend out of the surf zone into deeper water, reaching speeds from 0.5 m/s (1.6 ft/s) and up to 2.5 m/s (8.2 ft/s), which is faster than any human can swim. The water in the jet is sediment rich, bubble rich, and moves
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Oceanographers have two theories on rip current formation. The wave interaction model assumes that two edges of waves interact, create differing wave heights, and cause longshore transport of nearshore currents. The
Boundary Interaction Model assumes that the topography of the sea bottom causes
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Different onshore and off-shore wind patterns in the surf zone create different types of waves. Onshore winds cause random wave breaking patterns and are more suitable for experienced surfers. Light offshore winds create smoother waves, while strong direct offshore winds cause plunging or large
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or swing board helps novices master the art of surfing. However, it's important to note that these land-based training methods have faced criticism within the surf coaching community. Concerns include the potential for developing poor surfing style and habits, such as excessive wiggling, due to
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The wave peel angle is one of the main constituents of a potential surfing wave. Wave peel angle measures the distance between the peel-line and the line tangent to the breaking crest line. This angle controls the speed of the wave crest. The speed of the wave is an addition of the propagation
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inhibit their movement. These lows produce a shorter fetch than polar fronts, however, they can still generate heavy swells since their slower movement increases the duration of a particular wind direction. The variables of fetch and duration both influence how long wind acts over a wave as it
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When the surfer is at wave speed, the surfer must quickly pop up, stay low, and stay toward the front of the wave to become stable and prevent falling as the wave steepens. The acceleration is less toward the front than toward the back. The physics behind the surfing of the wave involves the
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was established in 1976 and promotes various championship tours, hosting top competitors in some of the best surf spots around the globe. A small number of people make a career out of surfing by receiving corporate sponsorships and performing for photographers and videographers in far-flung
2669:. Sidewalk surfing has a similar feel to surfing and requires only a paved road or sidewalk. To create the feel of the wave, surfers even sneaked into empty backyard swimming pools to ride in, known as pool skating. Eventually, surfing made its way to the slopes with the invention of the
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Surfing waves can be analyzed using the following parameters: breaking wave height, wave peel angle (α), wave breaking intensity, and wave section length. The breaking wave height has two measurements, the relative heights estimated by surfers and the exact measurements done by physical
2484:, inflammation of the ear or other damage. Surfer's ear is where the bone near the ear canal grows after repeated exposure to cold water, making the ear canal narrower. The narrowed canal makes it harder for water to drain from the ear. This can result in pain, infection and sometimes
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are fast, narrow currents that are caused by onshore transport within the surf zone and the successive return of the water seaward. The wedge bathymetry makes a convenient and consistent rip current of 5â10 meters that brings the surfers to the âtake-off pointâ then out to the beach.
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and hanging five are moves usually specific to longboarding. Hanging Ten refers to having both feet on the front end of the board with all of the surfer's toes off the edge, also known as nose-riding. Hanging Five is having just one foot near the front, with five toes off the edge.
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horizontal acceleration force (F·sinΞ) and the vertical force (F·cosΞ=mg). Therefore, the surfer should lean forward to gain speed, and lean on the back foot to brake. Also, to increase the length of the ride of the wave, the surfer should travel parallel to the wave crest.
222:, where a surfer rides the wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee (one foot and one knee on the board), or sometimes even standing up on a body board. Other types of surfing include knee boarding, surf matting (riding inflatable mats) and using foils.
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and sand bars. Artificial surfing reefs can be built with durable sandbags or concrete, and resemble a submerged breakwater. These artificial reefs not only provide a surfing location, but also dissipate wave energy and shelter the coastline from erosion. Ships such as
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size of a smaller surfboard. New and inexperienced surfers typically learn to catch waves on softboards around the 210 to 240 cm (7 to 8 ft) funboard size. Due to the softness of the surfboard the chance of getting injured is substantially minimized.
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surfer can remain stationary while the water rushes by under the surfboard. Artificial waves of this kind provide the opportunity to try surfing and learn its basics in a moderately small and controlled environment near or far from locations with natural surf.
2585:, because these two states offer the best surfing conditions. However, waves can be found wherever there is coastline, and a tight-knit yet far-reaching subculture of surfers has emerged throughout America. Some historical markers of the culture included the
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692:(1883â1919) is generally credited as the person who had done more than anyone else to renew interest in surfing at Waikiki in the early twentieth century after the sport had declined in popularity in Hawaii during the latter half of the nineteenth century.
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A large number of injuries, up to 66%, are caused by collision with a surfboard (nose or fins). Fins can cause deep lacerations and cuts, as well as bruising. While these injuries can be minor, they can open the skin to infection from the sea; groups like
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used to describe various aspects of the sport of surfing as described in literature on the subject. In some cases terms have spread to a wider cultural use. These terms were originally coined by people who were directly involved in the sport of surfing.
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forward, the surfer stands up and proceeds to ride the wave. The basic idea is to position the surfboard so it is just ahead of the breaking part (whitewash) of the wave, in the so-called 'pocket'. It is difficult for beginners to catch the wave at all.
781:. The size of a swell is determined by the strength of the wind, and the length of its fetch and duration. Because of these factors, the surf tends to be larger and more prevalent on coastlines exposed to large expanses of ocean traversed by intense
1712:, generally 270 to 300 cm (9 to 10 ft) in length, are reminiscent of the earliest surfboards, but now benefit from modern innovations in surfboard shaping and fin design. Competitive longboard surfers need to be competent at traditional
2316:, it can become separated from the user. A leash, attached to the ankle or knee, can keep a board from being swept away, but does not keep a rider on the board or above water. In some cases, possibly including the drowning of professional surfer
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built to make a deep channel in the river. It formed a delta at "The Poles". This is a special area because the jetty increases wave size for surfing when comparing pre-conditions and post-conditions of the southern St. Johns River mouth area.
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360 degrees â this is a full rotation air or âfull rotorâ where the surfer lands where they started or more, as long as they do not land backwards. When this is achieved front side on a wave spinning the opposite of an air reverse is called an
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When practicing the sport of surfing, the surfer paddles out past the wave break to wait for a wave. When a surfable wave arrives, the surfer must paddle extremely fast to match the velocity of the wave so the wave can accelerate him or her.
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Airs can either be straight airs or rotational airs. Straight airs have minimal rotation if any, but definitely no more rotation than 90 degrees. Rotational airs require a rotation of 90 degrees or more depending on the level of the surfer.
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180 degrees â called an air reverse, this is when the surfer spins enough to land backwards, then reverts to their original positional with the help of the fins. This rotation can either be done frontside or backside and can spin right or
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oceanographers. Measurements done by surfers were 1.36 to 2.58 times higher than the measurements done by scientists. The scientifically concluded wave heights that are physically possible to surf are 1 to 20 m (3.3 to 66 ft).
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are added to bodies of water to regulate erosion, preserve navigation channels, and make harbors. Jetties are classified into four different types and have two main controlling variables: the type of delta and the size of the jetty.
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Local wind conditions affect wave quality since the surface of a wave can become choppy in blustery conditions. Ideal conditions include a light to moderate "offshore" wind, because it blows into the front of the wave, making it a
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children in Ghana: âchildren at Elmina learned âto swim, on bits of boards, or small bundles of rushes, fastenâd under their stomachs, which is a good diversion to the spectators.â James
Alexander provided an account of surfing in
226:, in which the wave is caught and ridden using the surfer's own body rather than a board, is very common and is considered by some surfers to be the purest form of surfing. The closest form of body surfing using a board is a
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Deep-water waves travel to shore and become shallow-water waves when the water depth is less than half of their wavelength, and the wave motion becomes constrained by the bottom, causing the orbit paths to be flattened to
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Surfers' skills are tested by their ability to control their board in difficult conditions, riding challenging waves, and executing maneuvers such as strong turns and cutbacks (turning board back to the breaking wave) and
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catch low peel angle waves. More experienced surfers can handle longer section lengths, increased velocities, and higher wave heights. Different locations offer different types of surfing conditions for each skill level.
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surfers encounter in the water. Integrating skate bowl training can provide a more comprehensive preparation for the surfing experience, balancing the benefits of basic balance training with the nuances of wave dynamics.
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can sometimes present a danger. Warmer-water surfers often do the "stingray shuffle" as they walk out through the shallows, shuffling their feet in the sand to scare away stingrays that may be resting on the bottom.
704:. Looking for a way to entice visitors to his own budding resort community south of Venice where he had heavily invested in real estate, he hired Freeth as a lifeguard and to give surfing exhibitions in front of the
1738:, provide more maneuverability than a longboard, with more flotation than a shortboard. While many surfers find that funboards live up to their name, providing the best of both surfing modes, others are critical.
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Surfing can be broken into several skills: paddling strength, positioning to catch the wave, timing, and balance. Paddling out requires strength, but also the mastery of techniques to break through oncoming waves
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and four times as likely to harbor other bacteria capable of easily becoming antibiotic resistant. The researchers attributed this to the fact that surfers swallow roughly ten times as much seawater as swimmers.
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common complaint of EPS boards is that they do not provide as much feedback as a traditional PU/PE board. For this reason, many advanced surfers prefer that their surfboards be made from traditional materials.
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The physics of surfing involves the physical oceanographic properties of wave creation in the surf zone, the characteristics of the surfboard, and the surfer's interaction with the water and the board.
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A type 2 jetty occurs in an ebb-tidal delta, a delta transitioning between high and low tide. This area has shallow water, refraction, and distinctive seabed shapes that create large wave heights.
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directly behind and immediately beneath the breaking wave. Each break is different since each location's underwater topography is unique. At beach breaks, sandbanks change shape from week to week.
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are defined as a collection of dislocated water parcels that undergo a cycle of being forced past their normal position and being restored back to their normal position. Wind causes ripples and
211:, paipo, and other such water craft. Ancient cultures often surfed on their belly and knees, while the modern-day definition of surfing most often refers to a surfer riding a wave standing on a
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272:, tows the surfer into the wave front, helping the surfer match a large wave's speed, which is generally a higher speed than a self-propelled surfer can produce. Surfing-related sports such as
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Many surfers claim to have a spiritual connection with the ocean, describing surfing, the surfing experience, both in and out of the water, as a type of spiritual experience or a religion.
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good surfing waves, owing primarily to construction and operation costs and potential liability. Most wave pools generate waves that are too small and lack the power necessary to surf. The
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visited Hawaii in 1866 he wrote, "In one place, we came upon a large company of naked natives of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing."
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overnight accommodations, meals, lessons and surfboards. Most surf lessons begin with instruction and a safety briefing on land, followed by instructors helping students into waves on
4953:"Exposure to and colonisation by antibiotic-resistant E. coli in UK coastal water users: Environmental surveillance, exposure assessment, and epidemiological study (Beach Bum Survey)"
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Grabs â a surfer can help land an aerial maneuver by grabbing the surfboard, keeping them attached to the board and keeping the board under their feet. Common types of grabs include:
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A type 4 jetty is one that no longer functions nor traps sediment. The waves are created from reefs in the surf zone. A type 4 jetty can be found in
Tamarack, Carlsbad, California.
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and the other breaks south of the jetty. This does not allow for merging to make larger waves. Easterly waves, from 55°, converge north of the jetty and unite to make bigger waves.
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Madsen, P.A.; O.R. SÞrensen, and H.A. SchÀffer (1997). "Surf zone dynamics simulated by a
Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description of cross-shore motion of regular waves".
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A type 3 jetty is in an ebb-tidal area with an unchanging seabed that has naturally created waves. Examples of a Type 3 jetty occurs in âSouthsideâ Tamarack, Carlsbad, California.
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Sergio
Florian, some recommendations for preventing myelopathy is proper warm up, limiting the session length and sitting on the board while waiting for waves, rather than lying.
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A river or estuary entrance bar creates waves from the ebb-tidal delta, sediment outflow, and tidal currents. An ideal estuary entrance bar exists in Whangamata Bar, New Zealand.
296:, in which one surfs on the wake of a boat, has emerged. As of 2023, the Guinness Book of World Records recognized a 26.2 m (86 ft) wave ride by Sebastian Steudtner at
1228:, South West India, an artificial reef has successfully provided the local community with a quality lefthander, stabilized coastal soil erosion, and provided good habitat for
2343:, rocks, small ice, reefs, surfboards, and other surfers. Collisions with these objects can sometimes cause injuries such as cuts and scrapes and in rare instances, death.
505:. They brought many of their customs with them including playing in the surf on Paipo (belly/body) boards. It was in Hawaii that the art of standing and surfing upright on
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rapidly. The rip head of the rip current has long shore movement. Rip currents are common on beaches with mild slopes that experience sizeable and frequent oceanic swell.
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818:. The predominantly Westerly winds generate swells that advance Eastward, so waves tend to be largest on West coasts during winter months. However, an endless train of
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as a descriptive term for the quality of a break has been defined as "a fast, clean, evenly falling curl line, perfect for surfing, and usually found at pointbreaks."
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1008:
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Leonard, Anne F.C.; Zhang, Lihong; Balfour, Andrew J.; Garside, Ruth; Hawkey, Peter M.; Murray, Aimee K.; Ukoumunne, Obioha C.; Gaze, William H. (14 January 2018).
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The HPC arranged through their contacts in Los Angeles to secure a contract for Freeth to perform at Venice of America in July, 1907. Later that year, land baron
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As of 2023, the Guinness Book of World Records recognized a 26.2 m (86 ft) wave ride by Sebastian Steudtner at Nazaré, Portugal as the largest wave ever surfed.
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were originally made of solid wood and were large and heavy (often up to 370 cm (12 ft) long and having a mass of 70 kg (150 lb)). Lighter
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540 degrees â the surfer does a full rotation plus another 180 degrees and can be inverted or spinning straight, few surfers have been able to land this air.
856:, their regularity coincides with the passage of these lows. Swells arrive in pulses, each lasting for a couple of days, with a few days between each swell.
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surfboards (first made in the late 1940s and early 1950s) were a significant improvement, not only in portability, but also in increasing maneuverability.
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Bottom Turn: A turn at the bottom or mid-face of the wave, this maneuver is used to set up other maneuvers such as the top turn, cutback and even aerials.
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Swell regularity varies across the globe and throughout the year. During winter, heavy swells are generated in the mid-latitudes, when the North and South
712:, spread surfing to both the U.S. and Australia, riding the waves after displaying the swimming prowess that won him Olympic gold medals in 1912 and 1920.
457:, or sitting stubbornly cutting the waves of the sea, which is rough where they fish, they looked like the Tritons, or Neptunes, who paint upon the water.
234:
feel more drag as they move through the water than stand up surfers do. This holds body surfers into a more turbulent part of the wave (often completely
2893:
1475:
3641:
Mendonça, Ana; Conceição, Juana; Fortes, Conceição; Capitão, Rui; Maria, Graça; Neves, Maria; Antunes, Do; Antunes do Carmo, José; Moura, Theo (2012).
1742:"It is the happy medium of mediocrity," writes Steven Kotler. "Funboard riders either have nothing left to prove or lack the skills to prove anything."
2673:, later credited as the first snowboard. Many other board sports have been invented over the years, but all can trace their heritage back to surfing.
1256:
aim to solve that problem by controlling all the elements that go into creating perfect surf, however there are only a handful of wave pools that can
635:
in 1861: âFishermen rode small dugouts âno more than six feet in length, fourteen to sixteen inches in width, and from four to six inches in depth.ââ
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Even with artificial reefs in place, a tourist's vacation time may coincide with a "flat spell", when no waves are available. Completely artificial
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During the 1960s, as surfing caught on in California, its popularity spread through American pop culture. Several teen movies, starting with the
1383:
Snap: Quickly turning along the face or top of the wave, almost as if snapping the board back towards the wave. Typically done on steeper waves.
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2111:
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807:
is aided by advances in information technology. Mathematical modeling graphically depicts the size and direction of swells around the globe.
2435:, for example, is one of the biggest and thickest reef breaks in the world, with waves measuring up to 10 m (33 ft) high, but the
3396:
2651:
destinations; they are typically referred to as freesurfers. Sixty-six surfers on a 13 m (42 ft) long surfboard set a record in
5835:
2932:
2351:
campaign for cleaner waters to reduce the risk of infections. Local bugs and diseases can be risk factors when surfing around the globe.
796:
Waves are generally recognized by the surfaces over which they break. For example, there are beach breaks, reef breaks and point breaks.
1724:
style, defined by its three fins, usually around 180 to 210 cm (6 to 7 ft) in length. The thruster was invented by Australian
1442:
Double grab â A grab on the surfers inside and outside rail, the inside rail with the backhand and the outside rail with the front hand.
1192:
influence on the type and shape of breaking waves is determined by the slope of the seabed before the break. The breaker type index and
682:
on custom-shaped redwood boards, according to surf historians Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn. In 1890, the pioneer in agricultural education
6089:
1607:
453:
It is true to see them go fishing in Callao de Lima, was for me a thing of great recreation, because there were many and each one in a
1689:, boots, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower water temperatures. A newer introduction is a rash vest with a thin layer of
622:: âthe parents âtie their children to boards and throw them into the water.ââ In 1679 CE, Barbot provided an account of surfing among
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1268:, which will enable people unable to get to the coast to enjoy the waves in a controlled environment, set in the heart of nature.
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appears in many different ways on the skin, commonly as a painful red bumpy patch located on the surfer's chest or inner legs. A
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foam (EPS) which is stronger and lighter than traditional PU/PE construction. Even newer designs incorporate materials such as
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the wave, âcatching airâ, and landing either in the transition of the wave or the whitewash when hitting a close-out section.
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Hough-Snee, Dexter Zavalza; Eastman, Alexander Sotelo (2017). Hough-Snee, Dexter Zavalza; Eastman, Alexander Sotelo (eds.).
365:
in Japan. The first gold medalists of the Tokyo 2020 surfing men and women's competitions were, respectively, the Brazilian
257:
with several major differences including the board design and length, the riding style and the kind of wave that is ridden.
2339:
Under the wrong set of conditions, anything that a surfer's body can come in contact with is a potential hazard, including
1224:
in hopes of creating a new surfing area. However, the reef failed to produce any quality waves and was removed in 2008. In
618:) independently developed the skill of surfing. Amid the 1640s CE, Michael Hemmersam provided an account of surfing in the
2954:
1904:
wave interactions, island sheltering, and swell interactions can cause multifarious wave configurations in the surf zone.
1697:
1424:
Rodeo flip â usually done backside, it is a backflip with a 180 rotation, and is actually easier than a straight backflip.
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141:
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319:, is known for having some of the best waves in the world. Surfers from around the world flock to breaks like Backdoor,
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whereby a surfer propels off the wave entirely up into the air and then successfully lands the board back on the wave.
2983:[Tokyo 2020: Ătalo Ferreira gets the unprecedented gold medal in Tokyo 2020!!]. Jornal O MaringĂĄ. 27 July 2021
1754:, a board that is typically shorter, flatter, and wider than a normal shortboard, often with a split tail (known as a
288:
rely primarily on wind for power, yet all of these platforms may also be used to ride waves. Recently with the use of
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The repetitive cycle of paddling, popping up, and balancing requires stamina and physical strength. Having a proper
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called the "Beach Bum Survey" found surfers and bodyboarders to be three times as likely as non-surfers to harbor
643:
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1866:
waves are waves in water depths greater than half their wavelengths. Wind forces waves to break in the deep sea.
1750:, a longboard-style short board targeted at people who want to ride a shortboard but need more paddle power. The
546:
was the first person to write about the art of surfing on Hawaii, when he was completing the journals of Captain
543:
358:
195:
refers to a person riding a wave using a board, regardless of the stance. There are several types of boards. The
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East coasts also receive heavy winter swells when low-pressure cells form in the sub-tropics, where slow moving
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activity, while others make it the central focus of their lives. Surfing culture in the US is most dominant in
17:
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as the leading authority on surfing. National and international surf competitions began in 1964. In addition,
2642:(ISA) is the oldest foundation associated with surfing formed to better improve surfing and recognized by the
1370:
of Oahu, Teahupoo in Tahiti and G-Land in Java. Other names for the tube include "the barrel", and "the pit".
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5715:
5627:
2980:
2057:
1766:, a long, thick board with a pointed nose and tail (known as a pintail) specifically designed for big waves.
1172:
The type of break depends on shoaling rate. Breaking waves can be classified as four basic types: spilling (Ο
4740:
1900:
velocity vector (Vw) and peel velocity vector (Vp), which results in the overall velocity of the wave (Vs).
1433:
Slob â a grab on the surfers inside rail going frontside, outside rail going backside with their front hand.
7722:
6563:
5908:
5800:
5639:
5415:
2845:
2652:
1657:, traction pads (to keep a surfer's feet from slipping off the deck of the board), and fins (also known as
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860:
153:
45:
4576:
1430:
Indy â a grab on the surfers inside rail going frontside, outside rail going backside with their backhand.
793:
or "tube" wave. Waves are left-handed and right-handed depending upon the breaking formation of the wave.
671:
5918:
5770:
5539:
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2616:(1965) promoted the California dream of sun and surf. Surf culture also fueled the early records of the
2540:, etc.), this rare phenomenon has most often been seen in those surfing for the first time. According to
2456:
2431:
which can sometimes be very shallow, especially at beach breaks or reef breaks during low tide. Cyclops,
478:, surfing was an important activity. Modern surfing as we know it today is thought to have originated in
409:, reed watercraft used by fishermen for the past 3000 years at Huanchaco, Peru, known for its surf breaks
4499:
590:, far pre-dating the practice of surfing by Hawaiians and eastern Polynesians by over a thousand years.
164:, which usually carries the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found on
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2005:
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Top-Turn: Turn off the top of the wave. Sometimes used to generate speed and sometimes to shoot spray.
532:
3617:
1827:
1810:
1799:
1716:
manoeuvres, as well as the short-radius turns normally associated with shortboard surfing. The modern
1436:
Lien â A grab on the surfers outside rail frontside, inside rail going backside with their front hand.
1386:
Blowtail: Pushing the tail of the board out of the back of the wave so that the fins leave the water.
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are present in Padang Padang (Indonesia), Pipeline (Hawaii), Uluwatu (Bali), and Teahupo'o (Tahiti).
1653:(to stop the board from drifting away after a wipeout and to prevent it from hitting other surfers),
1213:
that have accidentally stranded on sandy bottoms, can create sandbanks that give rise to good waves.
701:
376:
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waves are carried by global winds to the beach and interact with local winds to make surfing waves.
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Stalefish â A grab on the surfers outside rail frontside, inside rail backside with their backhand.
686:
reputedly became the first British surfer when instructed by two Hawaiian students at his college.
527:
were the first Britons to visit the island in June of that year. Another candidate is the botanist
31:
4128:
3526:
The legend of Duke Kahanamoku, the father of modern surfing and double Olympic champion in Antwerp
2604:
series in 1959, transformed surfing into a dream life for American youth. Later movies, including
1421:
Backflip â usually done with a double grab, this hard to land air is made for elite-level surfers.
777:
is generated when the wind blows consistently over a large space of open water, called the wind's
280:
that are self-propelled by hand paddles do not require waves, and other derivative sports such as
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1953:
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38:
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1358:(banking off crest of the breaking wave). A newer addition to surfing is the progression of the
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which normally has one strap over it to fit on one hand. Surfers who body board, body surf, or
4859:
4273:"Research-Based Surfing Literature for Coastal Management and the Science of SurfingâA Review"
3920:"Brave chevalier dives headlong into seedy world of online surf coaching programs (Part One)!"
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1975:
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References to surf riding on planks and single canoe hulls are also verified for pre-contact
336:
72:
5109:
5059:"Beginner Surfer Left Paralysed after Suffering Rare Surfer's Myelopathy - Magicseaweed.com"
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nearshore circulation and longshore transport; the result of both models is a rip current.
1538:
training on flat surfaces which do not accurately mimic the dynamic nature of ocean waves.
853:
823:
819:
744:
738:
433:), with archaeological evidence showing its use around 200 CE. An early description of the
362:
1820:
848:
Surf travel and some surf camps offer surfers access to remote, tropical locations, where
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8:
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When the waves were flat, surfers persevered with sidewalk surfing, which is now called
1789:
1232:. ASR Ltd., a New Zealand-based company, constructed the Kovalam reef and is working on
1015:
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allow classification of breaker type as a function of wave steepness and seabed slope.
753:
728:
521:
475:
392:
308:
204:
7907:
6917:
4357:
4272:
4209:
Talley, Lynne D. (2011). "Chapter 8. Gravity Waves, Tides, and Coastal Oceanography".
654:
In July 1885, three teenage Hawaiian princes took a break from their boarding school,
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2001:
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and is specifically designed for surfing smaller waves. For big waves, there is the
1380:
Cutback: Generating speed down the line and then turning back to reverse direction.
442:
380:
366:
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3729:"MADE IN JAPAN Unlike its counterparts, Miyazaki's Ocean Dome wavepool is for real"
3654:
3500:
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2696:
2635:
2370:
2031:
1725:
1708:
There are many different surfboard sizes, shapes, and designs in use today. Modern
1204:
The value of good surf in attracting surf tourism has prompted the construction of
1193:
868:
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804:
494:
265:
94:
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3466:(First ed.). Honolulu, Hawaii: University of Hawaii Press. pp. 153â154.
2634:
The sport of surfing now represents a multibillion-dollar industry, especially in
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2981:"TĂłquio 2020: Ătalo Ferreira consegue a inĂ©dita medalha de ouro em TĂłquio 2020!!"
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to become undulated, redirecting swells at regular intervals toward the tropics.
709:
554:
324:
273:
254:
111:
2096:(New Zealand), Malibu (California), Rincon (California), and Kirra (Australia).
1735:
1717:
1709:
1629:
foam (PU), with one or more wooden strips or "stringers", fiberglass cloth, and
250:
7827:
7807:
7780:
7712:
7678:
7595:
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7321:
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6912:
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6838:
6828:
6548:
6441:
6346:
6230:
6184:
5456:
5334:
5012:"Surfers three times more likely to have antibiotic-resistant bacteria in guts"
3835:
The Art of Surfing: A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer
2723:
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2366:
2152:
1875:
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1759:
1728:
1159:
790:
683:
430:
261:
60:
7626:
4899:
4515:
4461:
3948:
3804:
Finney, Ben; Houston, James D. (1996). "Appendix A â Hawaiian Surfing terms".
3504:
2354:
Falling off a surfboard or colliding with others is commonly referred to as a
1350:(a series of strong back-to-back maneuvers). More advanced skills include the
834:
travels since a wave reaching the end of a fetch behaves as if the wind died.
733:
8016:
7897:
7802:
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7481:
7382:
7375:
7360:
7251:
7219:
7203:
7016:
6922:
6857:
6675:
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6579:
6514:
6498:
6371:
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5693:
5663:
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5329:
5309:
5279:
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4365:
3512:
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3364:
3279:
2768:
2718:
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1806:
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1526:
1244:
1145:
837:
During summer, heavy swells are generated when cyclones form in the tropics.
774:
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689:
536:
517:
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370:
219:
196:
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135:
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feel substantially less drag and may ride unbroken waves in the open ocean.
7973:
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5304:
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3382:
3082:
2773:
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2570:
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1674:
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1217:
1150:
1141:
528:
328:
281:
277:
223:
173:
5688:
4270:
3261:
2631:, where the weather and water conditions are most favourable for surfing.
2328:
1389:
Floater: Suspending the board atop the wave. Very popular on small waves.
516:. Surfing may have been observed by British explorers at Tahiti in 1767.
7953:
7902:
7869:
7852:
7847:
7792:
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5339:
3365:"Hawaiian Royals Surf Bridlington â in 1890! - Museum of British Surfing"
2701:
2605:
2590:
2439:
below is only about 2 m (7 ft) below the surface of the water.
2414:
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2258:
2253:
1678:
1634:
1534:
1373:
1229:
830:
811:
716:
603:
490:
434:
293:
285:
3439:
Surf and Rescue: George Freeth and the Birth of California Beach Culture
2105:
Tairua and Aramoana Beach (New Zealand) and the Gold Coast (Australia).
891:
Tube shape is defined by length to width ratio. A perfectly cylindrical
7932:
7892:
7695:
7516:
7424:
7355:
7316:
7294:
7011:
6953:
6948:
6879:
6785:
6753:
6725:
6715:
6697:
6650:
6587:
6334:
6318:
6287:
6256:
6189:
6136:
6131:
6021:
6011:
5760:
5471:
5466:
5289:
4987:
4462:
Scarfe, B.E.; M.H.S. Elwany, K.P. Black, and S.T. Mead (7 March 2003).
3570:
The Bluffer's Guides, The Bluffer's Guide to Surfing, Oval Books, 2008.
2811:
2783:
2763:
2617:
2593:, the long swim shorts typically worn while surfing. Surfers also wear
2582:
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2563:
2505:
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1702:
1682:
1626:
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340:
320:
235:
185:
181:
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4335:
4289:
3871:
3643:"Hydrodynamics around an Artificial Surfing Reef at Leirosa, Portugal"
7968:
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7511:
7501:
7311:
7122:
6823:
6710:
6660:
6471:
6466:
6416:
6261:
6199:
6001:
5855:
5845:
5512:
5492:
5476:
5461:
4423:"The differences between beach breaks, point breaks, and reef breaks"
3412:
3129:
Waves of Resistance: Surfing and History in Twentieth-century Hawaiʻi
2816:
2788:
2659:
consecutively surfed for 14,641 days, making it his main life focus.
2624:
2474:
2394:
2279:
1979:
1615:
1603:
1599:
1591:
1579:
1557:
1253:
887:
of tube shape can be represented as a ratio between length and width.
513:
506:
327:. However, there are still many popular surf spots around the world:
239:
227:
212:
161:
160:), uses a board to ride on the forward section, or face, of a moving
107:
3397:"George Freeth: King of the Surfers and California's Forgotten Hero"
7874:
7760:
7575:
7570:
7566:
7446:
7392:
7387:
7333:
7208:
7114:
6815:
6730:
6720:
6503:
6493:
6421:
6225:
6214:
6209:
6194:
5991:
5938:
5507:
2485:
2390:
2382:
2317:
2309:
2176:
Contents of this section are incomprehensible. Source is paywalled.
2092:
1690:
1654:
1257:
1124:
1105:
884:
632:
615:
466:
301:
5196:
4464:"Categorizing the Types of Surfing Breaks around Jetty Structures"
3441:(First ed.). Urbana, Illinois: University of Illinois Press.
1188:>2), and which type occurs depends on the slope of the bottom.
30:
This article is about stand-up ocean surfing. For other uses, see
7812:
7797:
7755:
7730:
7404:
7301:
6958:
6805:
6446:
6297:
6282:
6246:
6151:
5850:
5186:
in Lembang, Sukabumi, pangalengan & ciater Bandung, west java
4271:
Scarfe, Bradley E.; Terry R. Healy, and Hamish G. Rennie (2009).
3489:"The Hawaii Promotion Committee and the Appropriation of Surfing"
2806:
2670:
2594:
2537:
2513:
2313:
1871:
1720:
began life in the late 1960s and has evolved into today's common
1686:
1595:
1265:
1225:
852:
ensure offshore conditions. Since winter swells are generated by
815:
611:
607:
344:
289:
115:
5206:
5131:"The Spirituality Of Surfing: Finding Religion Riding The Waves"
4126:
3618:
Quantification of surfing amenity for beach value and management
2480:
Surfers sometimes use ear protection such as ear plugs to avoid
44:"Surfers" redirects here. For the suburb of the Gold Coast, see
7922:
7585:
7506:
7328:
7158:
6292:
6251:
5201:
3894:"Surf industry riding high on wave of older, wealthier surfers"
2601:
2597:
in colder regions and when the seasons cool the air and water.
2578:
2427:
1310:
1210:
1120:
1100:
892:
623:
498:
479:
438:
332:
316:
3754:
3640:
3254:
Undercurrents of Power Aquatic Culture in the African Diaspora
2589:, the station wagon used to carry surfers' boards, as well as
1064:
In most cases a peel angle less than 25° is too fast to surf.
7750:
5156:
2573:
based on riding the waves. Some people practice surfing as a
2558:
2378:
2340:
2199:
2149:
body surfing as the only feasible way to confront the waves.
1669:
designed or particularly suitable for surfing may be sold as
1568:
628:
599:
587:
571:
559:
421:) made of reeds that the fishermen surfed back to shore. The
208:
165:
3971:"How to Choose the Best Surf Skateboard: The Complete Guide"
2492:
have a leash in case the plug accidentally gets bumped out.
2172:
needs attention from an expert in Limnology and Oceanography
2153:
Jetties and their impacts on wave formation in the surf zone
1248:
Surfing a stationary, artificial wave in Southern California
413:
About three to five thousand years ago, cultures in ancient
402:
7451:
7419:
7132:
6266:
4819:"Skeg Cuts - The Most Common Surf Trauma-Injury - OMNA_Inc"
3184:. Lawrence, Kansas: Digireads.com Publishing. p. 264.
2955:"IOC approves five new sports for Olympic Games Tokyo 2020"
2533:
2501:
2436:
1611:
1306:
864:
757:
414:
348:
312:
200:
5211:
5087:"66 Surfers Set World Record by Riding on a Board at Once"
4950:
4179:
West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief
841:
form over warm seas, so their occurrence is influenced by
7006:
3647:
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
3584:. Orlando: Harvest Book Harcourt Inc. pp. e.g. 452.
2927:
307:
During the winter season in the northern hemisphere, the
5183:
5155:
Prabu Outbound "Surfing in Indonesia" (4 November 2022)
3250:"Cultural Meanings of Recreational Swimming and Surfing"
3125:
238:
by whitewater). In contrast, surfers who instead ride a
3803:
1354:(riding on top of the breaking curl of the wave), and
6111:
4023:"Kelly Slater Calls Out Surf Skaters for "Kookiness""
3808:. Rohnett, CA: Pomegranate Artbooks. pp. 94â97.
1043:
1018:
986:
929:
245:
Three major subdivisions within stand-up surfing are
5009:
4543:
4468:
Scripps Institution of Oceanography Technical Report
3536:
3534:
3256:. University of Pennsylvania Press. pp. 28â30.
3017:
1578:
Surfing can be done on various equipment, including
1035:
wave celerity (velocity in direction of propagation)
4834:"ANDY IRONS PASSES AWAY, CAUSE UNDER INVESTIGATION"
3634:
3611:
3609:
3607:
3605:
3603:
3601:
4211:Descriptive Physical Oceanography: An Introduction
3700:"India's first artificial reef to protect Kovalam"
2957:. International Olympic Committee. 3 August 2016.
2627:'s eastern coast sub-cultural life, especially in
1052:
1027:
1002:
966:
799:The most important influence on wave shape is the
542:, arriving on Tahiti on 10 April 1769. Lieutenant
264:(most often, but not exclusively, associated with
5746:Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surfing Championship
5182:Zumar Tour "Offroad Indonesia" (14 Oktober 2022)
4546:"observation nearshore circulation: Rip currents"
4048:"Why you shouldn't wiggle on a surf skate | OMBE"
3997:"Surf Training 101: What Is a Surf Skate? | OMBE"
3806:Surfing â A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport
3531:
3464:Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surfing Writing
3023:
2508:will lessen the incidence of surf rash caused by
2312:. Although the board assists a surfer in staying
1746:There are also various niche styles, such as the
1677:). In warmer climates, swimsuits, surf trunks or
8014:
6578:
4493:
4491:
4098:
3671:
3598:
3003:"Carissa Moore, Italo Ferreira Win Surfing Gold"
2894:"Surfer rides World Record 26.21 m (86 ft) wave"
2126:
715:In 1975, a professional tour started. That year
512:Various European explorers witnessed surfing in
215:; this is also referred to as stand-up surfing.
7656:
4713:
4711:
3861:
3154:Off the Map: Tales of Endurance and Exploration
647:A woman holding her surfboard about to surf in
7249:
5159:in pangalengan & ciater Bandung, west java
5123:
4266:
4264:
4262:
4260:
4258:
4256:
4254:
4252:
4250:
4106:"HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT WETSUIT FOR SURFING?"
3937:
3615:
1890:
7642:
7235:
6564:
6097:
5227:
4488:
4457:
4455:
4453:
4451:
4449:
4447:
4445:
4443:
4331:
4329:
4248:
4246:
4244:
4242:
4240:
4238:
4236:
4234:
4232:
4230:
4204:
4202:
4200:
4198:
3837:. Guilford, CT: Globe Pequot Press. pp.
967:{\displaystyle V_{s}={\frac {c}{sin\alpha }}}
719:became the first female professional surfer.
37:"Surfer" redirects here. For other uses, see
5165:"At Home With the Best Surfer on the Planet"
5029:
4708:
4591:
4589:
4539:
4537:
4535:
4480:: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (
3726:
3680:. Online Publishers Association South Africa
3243:
3241:
3239:
3237:
3235:
2655:for most people on a surfboard at one time.
2117:A group of surfers surfing a beach break in
1661:) which can either be permanently attached (
156:in which an individual, a surfer (or two in
5836:Smirnoff World Pro-Am Surfing Championships
5162:
5073:"Liam Hemsworth leaves 2019 with surfboard"
4860:"Unprovoked White Shark Attacks on Surfers"
4381:
4379:
4377:
4375:
3168:(Northwestern University Press, 1970), 273.
3132:. University of Hawaiʻi Press. p. 16.
3076:
2547:
1301:Catching waves at a surfing contest on the
845:cycles. Their movements are unpredictable.
7649:
7635:
7242:
7228:
6571:
6557:
6104:
6090:
5234:
5220:
4831:
4598:"Rip Currents: Theoretical Investigations"
4544:Smith, Jerome A.; John L. Largier (1995).
4440:
4326:
4227:
4195:
3616:Lewis, James; Hunt, S.; Evans, T. (2015).
3119:
3083:Rafael Larco Herrera Archaeological Museum
1912:Table 1: Wave type and surfer skill level
1879:bottom of the wave where the drag occurs.
361:(IOC) as an Olympic sport to begin at the
203:would often surf on reed craft, while the
59:
4986:
4976:
4624:
4586:
4532:
4497:
4313:"Wave Energy and Wave Changes with Depth"
4288:
3755:"Sustainable inland surfing destinations"
3232:
3105:
2532:is arched can cause this condition (i.e.
2086:
1769:
1685:; in cold water, surfers can opt to wear
1329:Aerial views of a surfing competition at
895:has a ratio of 1:1. Other forms include:
5107:
5010:University of Exeter (14 January 2018).
4372:
3831:"Appendix A â Glossary of Surfing Lingo"
3747:
2623:The sport is also a significant part of
2557:
2468:
2405:
2327:
1696:
1567:
1556:
1315:
1287:
1279:
1243:
878:
762:
743:
732:
642:
465:
401:
375:
5914:National Scholastic Surfing Association
4719:"Sony Pictures Classics: Riding Giants"
4020:
3864:"How to surf; learn to surf in one day"
3828:
3579:
2920:
874:
268:), a motorized water vehicle such as a
14:
8015:
4208:
4176:
3917:
3672:Clayton Truscott (23 September 2009).
3333:
3247:
3204:
3112:Historia natural y moral de las Indias
2182:may be able to help recruit an expert.
2180:WikiProject Limnology and Oceanography
1010:velocity of surfer along the wave face
614:) and western Central Africans (e.g.,
447:Historia natural y moral de las Indias
386:
7630:
7223:
6552:
6538:International World Games Association
6085:
5215:
4595:
4386:Edge, Ronald (2001). "Surf Physics".
3947:. learnhowtosurf.info. Archived from
3486:
3461:
3436:
3432:
3430:
3394:
3327:
3177:
3030:. Duke University Press. p. 11.
2520:can be used to treat irritated skin.
218:Another prominent form of surfing is
7997:
5039:. surfhandbook.com. 6 September 2020
4696:from the original on 21 October 2020
4385:
4213:. Academic Press. pp. 223â244.
4071:
3862:Kristian Hansen (20 November 2017).
3487:Moser, Patrick (29 September 2020).
3300:
3115:. Casa de Juan de Leon. p. 162.
2888:
2886:
2156:
1633:(PE). An emerging board material is
867:has allowed the creation of several
441:was documented by Jesuit missionary
5133:. huffingtonpost.com. 3 August 2014
4108:. surfhandbook.com. 3 February 2020
2273:
1625:Most modern surfboards are made of
1239:
1199:
24:
5894:International Professional Surfers
5149:
4892:
3659:10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000128
3630:from the original on 30 June 2019.
3427:
2961:from the original on 6 August 2021
2935:from the original on 9 August 2021
2283:more control and maneuverability.
1838:for the biggest waves ever surfed.
1758:). The Fish often has two or four
482:. The history of surfing dates to
25:
8069:
6113:Sports of the World Games program
5899:International Surfing Association
5190:
4738:
4086:from the original on 1 March 2021
4021:Pierson, Dashel (9 August 2023).
3156:, p. 154. Atlantic Monthly Press.
3126:Isaiah Helekunihi Walker (2011).
2883:
2827:List of "Surfing in ..." articles
2640:International Surfing Association
2442:
2401:
1874:. The bottom exerts a frictional
1849:
1167:
417:fished in kayak-like watercraft (
357:In 2016 surfing was added by the
304:as the largest wave ever surfed.
168:shores, but can also be found as
82:International Surfing Association
8058:Native American sports and games
7996:
7987:
7986:
7250:
6528:
6527:
5751:East Coast Surfing Championships
4769:. Site Tutor Inc. Archived from
4662:. 1 January 2018. Archived from
4420:
3945:"The quick guide on how to surf"
3918:Turren, Com (25 February 2023).
3870:. Hvs Boardsport. Archived from
3780:"A Guide to Surfing Airs | OMBE"
3727:Duncan Scott (8 November 2000).
3395:Verge, Arthur C. (1 July 2001).
3301:Dunn, Geoffrey (31 March 2010).
3052:"What are Caballitos de Totora?"
3027:The Critical Surf Studies Reader
2161:
2110:
1819:
1798:
1778:
1485:
1474:
5110:"Everyday Dale Ends His Streak"
5101:
5079:
5065:
5051:
5003:
4944:
4918:
4874:
4852:
4825:
4811:
4785:
4755:
4732:
4678:
4648:
4605:Journal of Geophysical Research
4553:Journal of Geophysical Research
4500:"Rip Currents and Their Causes"
4414:
4305:
4177:Kotler, Steven (13 June 2006).
4170:
4120:
4074:"Warm Up So You Don't Wipe Out"
4065:
4040:
4014:
3989:
3963:
3911:
3886:
3855:
3822:
3797:
3772:
3720:
3692:
3665:
3573:
3564:
3519:
3480:
3455:
3437:Moser, Patrick (28 June 2022).
3388:
3371:
3357:
3339:"Britain's original beach boys"
3294:
3248:Dawson, Kevin (20 March 2018).
3198:
3171:
3159:
3146:
2644:International Olympic Committee
2308:, carries the inherent risk of
2247:
2239:
2231:
2215:
2206:
1457:includes some of the extensive
493:began to make their way to the
359:International Olympic Committee
5184:"Booking Offroad in Indonesia"
5157:"Booking Surfing in Indonesia"
4900:"Doing the 'Stingray Shuffle'"
4832:Mike Lewis (2 November 2010).
3211:. University of Hawaii Press.
3099:
3070:
3044:
2995:
2973:
2947:
2914:
2638:markets. Founded in 1964, the
2523:
2369:can sometimes cause injuries (
2361:
2143:
2099:
2073:
593:
369:and the American from Hawaii,
315:, the third-largest island of
13:
1:
5716:Australian Boardriders Battle
5037:"How to deal with surf rash?"
4498:Dalrymple, Robert A. (1978).
4358:10.1016/S0378-3839(97)00028-8
4072:Chin, Tyler (1 August 2017).
2876:
2865:World Championship Tour (WCT)
2464:
2323:
2134:
2127:River or estuary entrance bar
1926:Section speed (meters/second)
1734:Midsize boards, often called
1588:stand up paddle boards (SUPs)
722:
638:
550:(upon Cook's death in 1779).
483:
343:, United States; Cloudbreak,
205:native peoples of the Pacific
6580:Extreme and adventure sports
6031:
5909:International Surfing Museum
5801:Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic
5791:O'Neill World Cup of Surfing
4978:10.1016/j.envint.2017.11.003
4127:Surfer (15 September 2014).
3381:, Volume 3, Lulu (2012)] -
3379:Legendary Surfers: The 1930s
3077:Larco Hoyle, Rafael (2001).
2923:"World's 50 best surf spots"
2846:Surfing in the United States
2653:Huntington Beach, California
2569:Surfers represent a diverse
2516:. Healing ointments such as
2495:
2447:A January 2018 study by the
1552:
1275:
1216:An artificial reef known as
1176:<0.4), plunging (0.4<Ο
461:
46:Surfers Paradise, Queensland
7:
7658:Water sports and activities
5919:New York Surf Film Festival
5786:O'Neill Sebastian Inlet Pro
5771:Lion Foundation Surf League
5241:
5163:Baron, Zach (15 May 2017).
4277:Journal of Coastal Research
3582:The Encyclopedia of Surfing
3462:Moser, Patrick (May 2008).
3166:Mardi, and A Voyage Thither
2921:Bremner, Jade (July 2013).
2754:List of surfing terminology
2679:
2648:The World Surf League (WSL)
2299:
2174:. The specific problem is:
1932:General locations of waves
1891:Wave conditions for surfing
1681:are worn, and occasionally
1649:Other equipment includes a
1549:can help prevent injuries.
1465:
1284:A surfer going for the tube
708:. Another native Hawaiian,
574:, where surfing was called
331:, located off the coast of
65:Mavericks Surf Contest 2010
10:
8074:
8053:Sports originating in Peru
8048:Partial squatting position
5731:Billabong Pipeline Masters
5721:Australian Open of Surfing
4926:"Surfing's hidden dangers"
4862:. Shark Research Committee
4596:Bowen, Anthony J. (1969).
2551:
2294:
2251:
1673:(the term is also used in
726:
662:, and came to cool off in
533:first voyage of James Cook
390:
99:Yes, separate competitions
43:
36:
29:
7982:
7946:
7883:
7721:
7664:
7604:
7554:
7262:
7146:
7113:
7077:
7057:Aggressive inline skating
7039:
6999:
6941:
6888:
6814:
6739:
6696:
6586:
6533:Sports at the World Games
6523:
6486:
6409:
6327:
6306:
6275:
6239:
6177:
6120:Artistic and dance sports
6119:
6063:
6030:
5982:
5924:Santa Cruz Surfing Museum
5904:International Surfing Day
5884:
5811:Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast
5781:Noosa Festival of Surfing
5776:MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal
5706:
5648:
5538:
5531:
5485:
5444:
5363:
5267:
5249:
4957:Environment International
4516:10.1061/9780872621909.085
3580:Warshaw, Matthew (2005).
3505:10.1525/phr.2020.89.4.500
3493:Pacific Historical Review
3303:"Riders of the Sea Spray"
3205:KrÀmer, Augustin (2000).
2421:
859:The availability of free
767:A large wave breaking at
676:Jonah KĆ«hiĆ KalanianaÊ»ole
134:
126:
121:
103:
93:
88:
70:
58:
5969:Welsh Surfing Federation
5959:The Moonshine Conspiracy
5816:Red Bull Big Wave Africa
4763:"Dangers â Hard Bottoms"
3735:. Surfline/Wavetrak, Inc
3528:(accessed 29 April 2022)
3377:Malcolm Gault-Williams,
2548:Surfers and surf culture
2410:Rip current warning sign
1694:their odds of drowning.
1448:
1053:{\displaystyle \alpha =}
801:topography of the seabed
748:Surfer getting tubed at
678:surfed the mouth of the
520:and the crew members of
445:in his 1590 publication
32:Surfing (disambiguation)
6127:Artistic roller skating
5964:Uruguayan Surfing Union
5861:Triple Crown of Surfing
4656:"Is Surfing Dangerous?"
4635:10.1029/JC074i023p05467
3152:Fleming, F. (c. 2005).
3005:. NYTimes. 27 July 2021
2855:Triple Crown of Surfing
2749:List of surfing records
2473:Man wearing protective
1954:Atlantic Beach, Florida
1929:Section length (meters)
1908:skill level of surfer.
470:Hawaiians surfing, 1858
397:
39:Surfer (disambiguation)
7908:Outrigger canoe racing
5934:Surfers Against Sewage
5831:Shark Island Challenge
5736:Billabong Pro Teahupoo
5325:Standup paddleboarding
5108:Douglas-Rosa, Ashtyn.
4882:"Surf Dangers Animals"
3829:Guisado, Raul (2003).
2899:Guinness World Records
2870:World surfing champion
2779:Standup paddleboarding
2759:List of surfing topics
2744:List of surfing events
2566:
2477:
2411:
2349:Surfers Against Sewage
2336:
2087:Headland (point break)
1836:Guinness World Records
1828:Praia do Norte, Nazaré
1770:The physics of surfing
1705:
1665:) or interchangeable.
1575:
1565:
1531:longboard (skateboard)
1338:
1335:Dana Point, California
1313:
1285:
1249:
1236:in Boscombe, England.
1222:El Segundo, California
1054:
1029:
1004:
1003:{\displaystyle V_{s}=}
968:
888:
771:
760:
741:
664:Santa Cruz, California
651:
582:(see Augustin KrÀmer,
471:
459:
410:
383:
353:Gold Coast, Australia.
172:in the open ocean, in
127:Country or region
8038:Summer Olympic sports
7918:Synchronized swimming
7616:Winter Olympic sports
7544:Greco-Roman wrestling
7256:Summer Olympic sports
6933:Parachuting/Skydiving
5929:SurfAid International
5806:Quiksilver Pro France
4840:. Bonnier Corporation
4582:on 18 September 2015.
3674:"Seli 1: One Year On"
3262:10.9783/9780812294781
2803:Surf Life Saving Club
2561:
2472:
2409:
2331:
1952:Low Gradient Breaks;
1700:
1571:
1560:
1328:
1300:
1283:
1247:
1184:>2) and surging (Ο
1180:<2), collapsing (Ο
1079:Wave intensity table
1055:
1030:
1005:
969:
882:
854:mid-latitude cyclones
820:mid-latitude cyclones
766:
747:
736:
649:Morro Bay, California
646:
598:West Africans (e.g.,
469:
451:
405:
379:
27:Sport of riding waves
7555:Discretionary sports
7047:Freestyle scootering
6873:Traditional climbing
6410:Past official sports
6389:Competition climbing
6372:Speed roller skating
6142:Acrobatic gymnastics
5954:Surfing South Africa
5944:Surfrider Foundation
4793:"Dangers of Surfing"
4773:on 26 September 2012
4741:"Mark Foo Biography"
4427:Degree 33 Surfboards
3546:Surfing Walk of Fame
3178:Twain, Mark (2007).
2687:Artificial wave pool
2636:clothing and fashion
2453:antibiotic-resistant
2449:University of Exeter
1923:Wave height (meters)
1920:Peel angle (degrees)
1834:) was listed in the
1639:Expanded Polystyrene
1406:Types of rotations:
1041:
1016:
984:
927:
875:Tube shape and speed
783:low pressure systems
531:who was part of the
489:in Polynesia, where
407:Caballitos de totora
363:2020 Summer Olympics
7913:Synchronized diving
7723:Activities on water
7666:Activities in water
7539:Freestyle wrestling
7435:Rhythmic gymnastics
7430:Artistic gymnastics
6974:Powered paragliding
6801:Whitewater kayaking
6796:Whitewater canoeing
6487:Invitational sports
6157:Rhythmic gymnastics
6055:Surfer's myelopathy
5871:World Surfing Games
5766:Ku Ikaika Challenge
4969:2018EnInt.114..326L
4838:Transworld Business
4692:. 5 February 2009.
4690:surfinghandbook.com
4617:1969JGR....74.5467B
4565:1995JGR...10010967S
4559:(C6): 10967â10975.
4504:Coastal Engineering
4400:2001PhTea..39..272E
4388:The Physics Teacher
4350:1997CoasE..32..255M
4338:Coastal Engineering
4129:"Bigger and Better"
3542:"Woman of the Year"
2614:Beach Blanket Bingo
2529:Surfer's myelopathy
2332:A surfer exiting a
2119:Juno Beach, Florida
2032:Padang Padang Beach
1913:
1455:Glossary of surfing
1220:was constructed in
1080:
843:El Niño and La Niña
737:Pipeline barrel at
700:brought surfing to
698:Henry E. Huntington
672:Edward Keliʻiahonui
427:caballito de totora
387:Origins and history
270:personal watercraft
154:surface water sport
73:governing body
55:
7903:Dragon boat racing
7105:Ski mountaineering
6868:Free solo climbing
6806:Whitewater rafting
6147:Aerobic gymnastics
5866:US Open of Surfing
5462:Ocean surface wave
4932:. 7 September 2001
4906:. 5 September 2006
3874:on 1 December 2017
3705:The Times of India
3401:California History
2841:Surfing in Madeira
2729:History of surfing
2713:The Endless Summer
2610:Ride the Wild Surf
2567:
2486:ringing of the ear
2478:
2412:
2377:. Animals such as
2337:
2304:Surfing, like all
1911:
1706:
1576:
1566:
1339:
1314:
1286:
1262:Seagaia Ocean Dome
1250:
1078:
1050:
1028:{\displaystyle c=}
1025:
1000:
964:
889:
772:
761:
742:
729:Ocean surface wave
656:St. Matthew's Hall
652:
476:Polynesian culture
472:
455:balsilla caballero
411:
393:History of surfing
384:
53:
8028:Individual sports
8010:
8009:
7959:Modern pentathlon
7624:
7623:
7612:Paralympic sports
7457:Modern pentathlon
7285:Marathon Swimming
7217:
7216:
6863:Big wall climbing
6611:Kite landboarding
6546:
6545:
6079:
6078:
5997:Fictional surfers
5974:World Surf League
5949:Surfing Australia
5876:World Surf League
5702:
5701:
5197:World Surf League
4888:on 20 April 2007.
4767:Surfing San Diego
4666:on 13 August 2018
4611:(23): 5467â5477.
4573:10.1029/95JC00751
4510:(16): 1414â1427.
4408:10.1119/1.1375464
4290:10.2112/07-0958.1
4220:978-0-08-093911-7
4188:978-1-59691-051-5
4156:External link in
4135:. Surfer Magazine
3951:on 31 August 2012
3868:hvsboardsport.com
3848:978-0-7627-2466-6
3815:978-0-87654-594-2
3591:978-0151--00579-6
3448:978-0-252-08652-6
3315:on 3 January 2013
3208:The Samoa Islands
3139:978-0-8248-3547-7
3037:978-0-8223-7282-0
2836:Surfing in Canada
2433:Western Australia
2197:
2196:
2067:
2066:
1326:
1298:
1165:
1164:
962:
839:Tropical cyclones
814:shift toward the
680:San Lorenzo River
668:David KawÄnanakoa
584:The Samoa Islands
503:Marquesas Islands
429:(little horse of
247:stand-up paddling
180:in the form of a
147:
146:
78:World Surf League
16:(Redirected from
8065:
8000:
7999:
7990:
7989:
7938:Water volleyball
7928:Water basketball
7651:
7644:
7637:
7628:
7627:
7522:Beach volleyball
7263:Mandatory sports
7254:
7244:
7237:
7230:
7221:
7220:
7154:Adventure racing
7128:Extreme sledding
7095:Freestyle skiing
6906:Ski-BASE jumping
6779:Technical diving
6626:Mountainboarding
6573:
6566:
6559:
6550:
6549:
6531:
6530:
6510:Wheelchair rugby
6427:Beach volleyball
6288:Billiards sports
6276:Precision sports
6106:
6099:
6092:
6083:
6082:
5726:Beachley Classic
5679:Puerto Escondido
5536:
5535:
5315:Shoulder surfing
5236:
5229:
5222:
5213:
5212:
5179:
5177:
5175:
5143:
5142:
5140:
5138:
5127:
5121:
5120:
5118:
5116:
5105:
5099:
5098:
5096:
5094:
5083:
5077:
5076:
5069:
5063:
5062:
5055:
5049:
5048:
5046:
5044:
5033:
5027:
5026:
5024:
5022:
5007:
5001:
5000:
4990:
4980:
4948:
4942:
4941:
4939:
4937:
4922:
4916:
4915:
4913:
4911:
4896:
4890:
4889:
4884:. Archived from
4878:
4872:
4871:
4869:
4867:
4856:
4850:
4849:
4847:
4845:
4829:
4823:
4822:
4815:
4809:
4808:
4806:
4804:
4789:
4783:
4782:
4780:
4778:
4759:
4753:
4752:
4750:
4748:
4736:
4730:
4729:
4727:
4725:
4715:
4706:
4705:
4703:
4701:
4682:
4676:
4675:
4673:
4671:
4652:
4646:
4645:
4644:on 12 June 2010.
4643:
4637:. Archived from
4628:
4602:
4593:
4584:
4583:
4581:
4575:. Archived from
4550:
4541:
4530:
4529:
4495:
4486:
4485:
4479:
4471:
4459:
4438:
4437:
4435:
4433:
4418:
4412:
4411:
4383:
4370:
4369:
4333:
4324:
4323:
4321:
4319:
4309:
4303:
4302:
4292:
4268:
4225:
4224:
4206:
4193:
4192:
4174:
4168:
4167:
4161:
4160:
4154:
4152:
4144:
4142:
4140:
4124:
4118:
4117:
4115:
4113:
4102:
4096:
4095:
4093:
4091:
4069:
4063:
4062:
4060:
4058:
4044:
4038:
4037:
4035:
4033:
4018:
4012:
4011:
4009:
4007:
3993:
3987:
3986:
3984:
3982:
3967:
3961:
3960:
3958:
3956:
3941:
3935:
3934:
3932:
3930:
3915:
3909:
3908:
3906:
3904:
3890:
3884:
3883:
3881:
3879:
3859:
3853:
3852:
3826:
3820:
3819:
3801:
3795:
3794:
3792:
3790:
3776:
3770:
3769:
3767:
3765:
3759:The Wave Bristol
3751:
3745:
3744:
3742:
3740:
3724:
3718:
3717:
3715:
3713:
3696:
3690:
3689:
3687:
3685:
3669:
3663:
3662:
3638:
3632:
3631:
3629:
3622:
3613:
3596:
3595:
3577:
3571:
3568:
3562:
3561:
3559:
3557:
3552:on 6 August 2017
3548:. Archived from
3538:
3529:
3523:
3517:
3516:
3484:
3478:
3477:
3459:
3453:
3452:
3434:
3425:
3424:
3413:10.2307/25177649
3392:
3386:
3375:
3369:
3368:
3361:
3355:
3354:
3352:
3350:
3337:(9 April 2012).
3331:
3325:
3324:
3322:
3320:
3311:. Archived from
3298:
3292:
3291:
3245:
3230:
3229:
3227:
3225:
3202:
3196:
3195:
3175:
3169:
3163:
3157:
3150:
3144:
3143:
3123:
3117:
3116:
3103:
3097:
3096:
3074:
3068:
3067:
3065:
3063:
3048:
3042:
3041:
3021:
3015:
3014:
3012:
3010:
2999:
2993:
2992:
2990:
2988:
2977:
2971:
2970:
2968:
2966:
2951:
2945:
2944:
2942:
2940:
2918:
2912:
2911:
2909:
2907:
2890:
2794:Surf forecasting
2697:Big wave surfing
2371:Bethany Hamilton
2274:On the surfboard
2192:
2189:
2183:
2165:
2164:
2157:
2114:
2062:Pipes, Encinitas
2038:Top World Surfer
1914:
1910:
1823:
1802:
1790:Nazaré, Portugal
1782:
1492:Learning to surf
1489:
1478:
1331:Salt Creek Beach
1327:
1299:
1240:Artificial waves
1206:artificial reefs
1200:Artificial reefs
1194:Iribarren number
1081:
1077:
1059:
1057:
1056:
1051:
1034:
1032:
1031:
1026:
1009:
1007:
1006:
1001:
996:
995:
973:
971:
970:
965:
963:
961:
944:
939:
938:
869:surf forecasting
805:Surf forecasting
495:Hawaiian Islands
488:
485:
266:big wave surfing
207:surfed waves on
63:
56:
52:
21:
8073:
8072:
8068:
8067:
8066:
8064:
8063:
8062:
8013:
8012:
8011:
8006:
7978:
7942:
7879:
7717:
7660:
7655:
7625:
7620:
7600:
7550:
7366:Mountain biking
7258:
7248:
7218:
7213:
7184:Obstacle racing
7169:Extreme ironing
7142:
7109:
7073:
7035:
7024:Mountain biking
6995:
6991:Wingsuit flying
6937:
6884:
6851:Alpine climbing
6810:
6735:
6692:
6582:
6577:
6547:
6542:
6519:
6482:
6405:
6323:
6307:Strength sports
6302:
6271:
6235:
6173:
6115:
6110:
6080:
6075:
6071:Surf lifesaving
6059:
6026:
6017:Surfwear brands
5978:
5880:
5826:Roxy Pro France
5698:
5684:Shipstern Bluff
5656:Banzai Pipeline
5644:
5527:
5523:Surfboard leash
5481:
5440:
5359:
5355:Women's surfing
5263:
5245:
5240:
5193:
5173:
5171:
5152:
5150:Further reading
5147:
5146:
5136:
5134:
5129:
5128:
5124:
5114:
5112:
5106:
5102:
5092:
5090:
5085:
5084:
5080:
5071:
5070:
5066:
5057:
5056:
5052:
5042:
5040:
5035:
5034:
5030:
5020:
5018:
5008:
5004:
4949:
4945:
4935:
4933:
4924:
4923:
4919:
4909:
4907:
4898:
4897:
4893:
4880:
4879:
4875:
4865:
4863:
4858:
4857:
4853:
4843:
4841:
4830:
4826:
4817:
4816:
4812:
4802:
4800:
4797:Surfboard Shack
4791:
4790:
4786:
4776:
4774:
4761:
4760:
4756:
4746:
4744:
4737:
4733:
4723:
4721:
4717:
4716:
4709:
4699:
4697:
4684:
4683:
4679:
4669:
4667:
4654:
4653:
4649:
4641:
4626:10.1.1.463.6097
4600:
4594:
4587:
4579:
4548:
4542:
4533:
4526:
4496:
4489:
4473:
4472:
4460:
4441:
4431:
4429:
4419:
4415:
4384:
4373:
4334:
4327:
4317:
4315:
4311:
4310:
4306:
4269:
4228:
4221:
4207:
4196:
4189:
4175:
4171:
4158:
4157:
4155:
4146:
4145:
4138:
4136:
4133:Surfer Magazine
4125:
4121:
4111:
4109:
4104:
4103:
4099:
4089:
4087:
4070:
4066:
4056:
4054:
4046:
4045:
4041:
4031:
4029:
4019:
4015:
4005:
4003:
3995:
3994:
3990:
3980:
3978:
3969:
3968:
3964:
3954:
3952:
3943:
3942:
3938:
3928:
3926:
3916:
3912:
3902:
3900:
3898:Bond University
3892:
3891:
3887:
3877:
3875:
3860:
3856:
3849:
3827:
3823:
3816:
3802:
3798:
3788:
3786:
3778:
3777:
3773:
3763:
3761:
3753:
3752:
3748:
3738:
3736:
3725:
3721:
3711:
3709:
3698:
3697:
3693:
3683:
3681:
3670:
3666:
3639:
3635:
3627:
3620:
3614:
3599:
3592:
3578:
3574:
3569:
3565:
3555:
3553:
3540:
3539:
3532:
3524:
3520:
3485:
3481:
3474:
3460:
3456:
3449:
3435:
3428:
3407:(2â3): 82â105.
3393:
3389:
3376:
3372:
3363:
3362:
3358:
3348:
3346:
3332:
3328:
3318:
3316:
3299:
3295:
3272:
3246:
3233:
3223:
3221:
3219:
3203:
3199:
3192:
3176:
3172:
3164:
3160:
3151:
3147:
3140:
3124:
3120:
3107:de Acosta, José
3104:
3100:
3093:
3075:
3071:
3061:
3059:
3058:. 20 March 2017
3050:
3049:
3045:
3038:
3022:
3018:
3008:
3006:
3001:
3000:
2996:
2986:
2984:
2979:
2978:
2974:
2964:
2962:
2953:
2952:
2948:
2938:
2936:
2919:
2915:
2905:
2903:
2892:
2891:
2884:
2879:
2874:
2860:Women's surfing
2799:Surf lifesaving
2739:List of surfers
2707:Duke Kahanamoku
2682:
2629:New South Wales
2556:
2550:
2526:
2518:petroleum jelly
2498:
2467:
2445:
2424:
2404:
2364:
2326:
2302:
2297:
2276:
2256:
2250:
2242:
2234:
2218:
2209:
2193:
2187:
2184:
2178:
2166:
2162:
2155:
2146:
2137:
2129:
2122:
2115:
2102:
2089:
2076:
2054:Banzai Pipeline
1893:
1852:
1843:
1842:
1841:
1840:
1839:
1824:
1815:
1814:
1813:
1803:
1794:
1793:
1792:
1783:
1772:
1631:polyester resin
1573:Surfboard leash
1555:
1547:warm-up routine
1497:
1496:
1495:
1494:
1493:
1490:
1481:
1480:
1479:
1468:
1451:
1316:
1288:
1278:
1242:
1202:
1187:
1183:
1179:
1175:
1170:
1130:Banzai Pipeline
1042:
1039:
1038:
1017:
1014:
1013:
991:
987:
985:
982:
981:
948:
943:
934:
930:
928:
925:
924:
905:Almond: >2:1
899:Square: <1:1
877:
739:Pƫpƫkea, Hawaii
731:
725:
710:Duke Kahanamoku
641:
596:
555:Herman Melville
486:
464:
400:
395:
389:
274:paddle boarding
89:Characteristics
66:
49:
42:
35:
28:
23:
22:
15:
12:
11:
5:
8071:
8061:
8060:
8055:
8050:
8045:
8040:
8035:
8033:Hawaii culture
8030:
8025:
8008:
8007:
8005:
8004:
7994:
7983:
7980:
7979:
7977:
7976:
7971:
7966:
7961:
7956:
7950:
7948:
7944:
7943:
7941:
7940:
7935:
7930:
7925:
7920:
7915:
7910:
7905:
7900:
7895:
7889:
7887:
7881:
7880:
7878:
7877:
7872:
7867:
7866:
7865:
7855:
7850:
7845:
7840:
7835:
7830:
7828:Stone skipping
7825:
7820:
7815:
7810:
7805:
7800:
7795:
7790:
7789:
7788:
7781:Paddleboarding
7778:
7773:
7768:
7763:
7758:
7753:
7748:
7743:
7738:
7733:
7727:
7725:
7719:
7718:
7716:
7715:
7713:Water aerobics
7710:
7709:
7708:
7698:
7693:
7688:
7687:
7686:
7676:
7670:
7668:
7662:
7661:
7654:
7653:
7646:
7639:
7631:
7622:
7621:
7619:
7618:
7605:
7602:
7601:
7599:
7598:
7593:
7588:
7583:
7578:
7573:
7564:
7558:
7556:
7552:
7551:
7549:
7548:
7547:
7546:
7541:
7531:
7526:
7525:
7524:
7514:
7509:
7504:
7499:
7494:
7489:
7487:Sport climbing
7484:
7479:
7474:
7469:
7464:
7459:
7454:
7449:
7444:
7443:
7442:
7437:
7432:
7422:
7417:
7412:
7407:
7402:
7401:
7400:
7395:
7390:
7380:
7379:
7378:
7373:
7368:
7363:
7358:
7348:
7347:
7346:
7341:
7331:
7326:
7325:
7324:
7314:
7309:
7304:
7299:
7298:
7297:
7292:
7287:
7282:
7277:
7266:
7264:
7260:
7259:
7247:
7246:
7239:
7232:
7224:
7215:
7214:
7212:
7211:
7206:
7201:
7196:
7191:
7186:
7181:
7176:
7171:
7166:
7164:Cheese rolling
7161:
7156:
7150:
7148:
7144:
7143:
7141:
7140:
7135:
7130:
7125:
7119:
7117:
7111:
7110:
7108:
7107:
7102:
7097:
7092:
7087:
7085:Extreme skiing
7081:
7079:
7075:
7074:
7072:
7071:
7069:Roller skating
7066:
7065:
7064:
7059:
7052:Inline skating
7049:
7043:
7041:
7037:
7036:
7034:
7033:
7032:
7031:
7021:
7020:
7019:
7014:
7003:
7001:
6997:
6996:
6994:
6993:
6988:
6983:
6978:
6977:
6976:
6966:
6961:
6956:
6951:
6945:
6943:
6939:
6938:
6936:
6935:
6930:
6925:
6920:
6915:
6913:Bungee jumping
6910:
6909:
6908:
6903:
6892:
6890:
6886:
6885:
6883:
6882:
6877:
6876:
6875:
6870:
6865:
6855:
6854:
6853:
6846:Mountaineering
6843:
6842:
6841:
6839:Mixed climbing
6831:
6829:Crane climbing
6826:
6820:
6818:
6812:
6811:
6809:
6808:
6803:
6798:
6793:
6788:
6783:
6782:
6781:
6776:
6766:
6761:
6756:
6751:
6745:
6743:
6737:
6736:
6734:
6733:
6728:
6723:
6718:
6713:
6708:
6702:
6700:
6694:
6693:
6691:
6690:
6685:
6680:
6679:
6678:
6668:
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6064:Related topics
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4739:Borte, Jason.
4731:
4707:
4686:"Ocean Safety"
4677:
4660:HVS Boardsport
4647:
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4531:
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4394:(5): 272â277.
4371:
4344:(4): 255â287.
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4181:. Bloomsbury.
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3977:. 17 July 2018
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2692:ASP World Tour
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2552:Main article:
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2443:Microorganisms
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2006:Burleigh Heads
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1850:Wave formation
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1811:Praia do Norte
1807:breaking waves
1804:
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1786:Tow-in surfing
1784:
1777:
1776:
1775:
1774:
1773:
1771:
1768:
1744:
1743:
1729:Simon Anderson
1554:
1551:
1521:also known as
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1168:Wave intensity
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684:John Wrightson
640:
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592:
557:'s 1849 novel
509:was invented.
463:
460:
443:José de Acosta
399:
396:
391:Main article:
388:
385:
381:Ătalo Ferreira
367:Ătalo Ferreira
262:tow-in surfing
255:short boarding
170:standing waves
158:tandem surfing
145:
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18:Barreling wave
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7898:Dinghy racing
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7803:Riverboarding
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7482:Skateboarding
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7376:Track cycling
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7361:Freestyle BMX
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6923:Cliff jumping
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6858:Rock climbing
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6681:
6677:
6676:River surfing
6674:
6673:
6672:
6669:
6667:
6666:Street luging
6664:
6662:
6659:
6657:
6654:
6652:
6649:
6647:
6644:
6642:
6641:Skateboarding
6639:
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6631:Riverboarding
6629:
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6617:
6614:
6612:
6609:
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6604:
6602:
6599:
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6596:Bellyboarding
6594:
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6502:
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6499:Flag football
6497:
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6477:Weightlifting
6475:
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6453:
6452:Roller hockey
6450:
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6309:
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6293:Boules sports
6291:
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6208:
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6205:Inline hockey
6203:
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5891:
5889:
5887:
5886:Organizations
5883:
5877:
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5867:
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5862:
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5741:Copa Movistar
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5640:United States
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5431:South African
5429:
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5338:
5336:
5333:
5331:
5330:Surf kayaking
5328:
5326:
5323:
5321:
5318:
5316:
5313:
5311:
5310:River surfing
5308:
5306:
5303:
5301:
5298:
5296:
5293:
5291:
5288:
5286:
5283:
5281:
5280:Bellyboarding
5278:
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5270:
5266:
5260:
5257:
5255:
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5248:
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5214:
5208:
5207:Surf Handbook
5205:
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5194:
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4525:9780872621909
4521:
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4465:
4458:
4456:
4454:
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4450:
4448:
4446:
4444:
4428:
4424:
4421:Hurt, Garek.
4417:
4409:
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4401:
4397:
4393:
4389:
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4380:
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4068:
4053:
4049:
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4028:
4024:
4017:
4002:
3998:
3992:
3976:
3975:Riding Boards
3972:
3966:
3950:
3946:
3940:
3925:
3921:
3914:
3899:
3895:
3889:
3873:
3869:
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3811:
3807:
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3756:
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3723:
3708:. 20 May 2010
3707:
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3473:9780824831554
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3273:
3271:9780812249897
3267:
3263:
3259:
3255:
3251:
3244:
3242:
3240:
3238:
3236:
3220:
3218:9780824822194
3214:
3210:
3209:
3201:
3193:
3191:9781420930283
3187:
3183:
3182:
3174:
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3155:
3149:
3141:
3135:
3131:
3130:
3122:
3114:
3113:
3108:
3102:
3094:
3092:9972-9341-0-1
3088:
3084:
3080:
3073:
3057:
3053:
3047:
3039:
3033:
3029:
3028:
3020:
3004:
2998:
2982:
2976:
2960:
2956:
2950:
2934:
2930:
2929:
2924:
2917:
2902:. 25 May 2022
2901:
2900:
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2790:
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2785:
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2772:
2770:
2769:River surfing
2767:
2765:
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2760:
2757:
2755:
2752:
2750:
2747:
2745:
2742:
2740:
2737:
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2722:
2720:
2719:George Freeth
2717:
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2710:
2708:
2705:
2703:
2700:
2698:
2695:
2693:
2690:
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2672:
2668:
2667:skateboarding
2663:
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2255:
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2237:
2229:
2225:
2221:
2213:
2204:
2201:
2191:
2188:February 2021
2181:
2177:
2173:
2170:This article
2168:
2159:
2158:
2150:
2141:
2132:
2120:
2113:
2108:
2107:
2106:
2097:
2094:
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2059:
2055:
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2049:
2046:
2043:
2040:
2037:
2036:
2033:
2029:
2026:
2023:
2020:
2017:
2014:
2011:
2010:
2007:
2003:
2000:
1997:
1994:
1991:
1988:
1985:
1984:
1981:
1977:
1974:
1971:
1968:
1965:
1962:
1959:
1958:
1955:
1951:
1948:
1945:
1942:
1939:
1936:
1935:
1931:
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1922:
1919:
1916:
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1901:
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1877:
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1867:
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1847:
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1791:
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1741:
1740:
1739:
1737:
1732:
1730:
1727:
1723:
1719:
1715:
1711:
1704:
1701:A variety of
1699:
1695:
1692:
1688:
1684:
1680:
1676:
1672:
1668:
1664:
1660:
1656:
1652:
1647:
1644:
1640:
1636:
1632:
1628:
1623:
1621:
1617:
1613:
1612:macca's trays
1609:
1605:
1601:
1597:
1593:
1589:
1585:
1581:
1574:
1570:
1563:
1559:
1550:
1548:
1543:
1539:
1536:
1532:
1528:
1527:balance board
1524:
1520:
1516:
1510:
1506:
1503:
1488:
1477:
1463:
1460:
1456:
1441:
1438:
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1429:
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1400:
1396:
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1282:
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1227:
1223:
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1212:
1207:
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1189:
1161:
1158:
1156:
1152:
1149:
1147:
1143:
1140:
1137:
1136:
1133:
1131:
1128:
1126:
1122:
1119:
1116:
1115:
1112:
1109:
1107:
1104:
1102:
1099:
1096:
1095:
1091:
1088:
1085:
1083:
1082:
1073:
1070:
1067:
1066:
1065:
1047:
1044:
1037:
1022:
1019:
1012:
997:
992:
988:
980:
979:
978:
958:
955:
952:
949:
945:
940:
935:
931:
923:
922:
921:
917:
915:
911:
904:
901:
898:
897:
896:
894:
886:
881:
872:
870:
866:
862:
857:
855:
851:
846:
844:
840:
835:
832:
827:
825:
821:
817:
813:
808:
806:
802:
797:
794:
792:
786:
784:
780:
776:
770:
765:
759:
755:
751:
746:
740:
735:
730:
720:
718:
713:
711:
707:
706:Hotel Redondo
703:
702:Redondo Beach
699:
693:
691:
690:George Freeth
687:
685:
681:
677:
673:
669:
665:
661:
657:
650:
645:
636:
634:
630:
625:
621:
617:
613:
609:
605:
601:
591:
589:
585:
581:
577:
573:
568:
566:
562:
561:
556:
551:
549:
545:
541:
540:
534:
530:
526:
525:
519:
518:Samuel Wallis
515:
510:
508:
504:
500:
496:
492:
487: AD 400
481:
477:
468:
458:
456:
450:
448:
444:
440:
436:
432:
428:
424:
423:Moche culture
420:
416:
408:
404:
394:
382:
378:
374:
372:
371:Carissa Moore
368:
364:
360:
355:
354:
351:; Superbank,
350:
346:
342:
338:
334:
330:
326:
322:
318:
314:
310:
305:
303:
299:
295:
291:
287:
283:
279:
275:
271:
267:
263:
258:
256:
252:
251:long boarding
248:
243:
241:
237:
233:
229:
225:
221:
220:body boarding
216:
214:
210:
206:
202:
198:
194:
189:
187:
183:
179:
175:
171:
167:
163:
162:wave of water
159:
155:
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143:
139:
137:
133:
129:
125:
120:
117:
113:
109:
106:
102:
98:
96:
92:
87:
83:
79:
76:
74:
69:
62:
57:
51:
47:
40:
33:
19:
7974:Yacht racing
7947:Competitions
7858:Water skiing
7843:Wakeboarding
7832:
7818:Skimboarding
7776:Kneeboarding
7766:Kiteboarding
7746:Cable skiing
7736:Bodyboarding
7706:synchronized
7691:Scuba diving
7684:synchronized
7608:
7497:Table tennis
7491:
7467:Rugby sevens
7440:Trampolining
7410:Field hockey
7398:Show jumping
7371:Road cycling
7344:Canoe sprint
7339:Canoe slalom
7194:Powerbocking
7189:Orienteering
7179:Fell running
7174:Extreme Pogo
7100:Speed skiing
7062:Vert skating
6986:Speed flying
6964:Hang gliding
6918:Cliff-diving
6896:BASE jumping
6834:Ice climbing
6791:Water skiing
6769:Scuba diving
6741:Water sports
6683:Wakeboarding
6670:
6656:Snowboarding
6646:Skimboarding
6636:Sandboarding
6621:Longboarding
6616:Kiteboarding
6601:Bodyboarding
6457:Rugby sevens
6432:Bodybuilding
6399:Wakeboarding
6394:Water skiing
6367:Orienteering
6328:Trend sports
6314:Powerlifting
6240:Martial arts
6162:Trampolining
6050:Surfer's ear
6045:Surfer's eye
6040:Shark attack
5821:Rip Curl Pro
5756:Hawaiian Pro
5708:Competitions
5608:South Africa
5350:Wing foiling
5320:Skimboarding
5305:Lake surfing
5300:Kneeboarding
5295:Kiteboarding
5285:Bodyboarding
5242:
5172:. Retrieved
5168:
5135:. Retrieved
5125:
5115:21 September
5113:. Retrieved
5103:
5093:21 September
5091:. Retrieved
5081:
5067:
5053:
5041:. Retrieved
5031:
5019:. Retrieved
5015:
5005:
4960:
4956:
4946:
4934:. Retrieved
4929:
4920:
4908:. Retrieved
4894:
4886:the original
4876:
4866:20 September
4864:. Retrieved
4854:
4844:26 September
4842:. Retrieved
4837:
4827:
4813:
4803:26 September
4801:. Retrieved
4796:
4787:
4777:26 September
4775:. Retrieved
4771:the original
4766:
4757:
4745:. Retrieved
4734:
4722:. Retrieved
4698:. Retrieved
4689:
4680:
4668:. Retrieved
4664:the original
4659:
4650:
4639:the original
4608:
4604:
4577:the original
4556:
4552:
4507:
4503:
4476:cite journal
4467:
4430:. Retrieved
4426:
4416:
4391:
4387:
4341:
4337:
4318:21 September
4316:. Retrieved
4307:
4280:
4276:
4210:
4178:
4172:
4137:. Retrieved
4132:
4122:
4110:. Retrieved
4100:
4088:. Retrieved
4079:Men's Health
4077:
4067:
4055:. Retrieved
4051:
4042:
4030:. Retrieved
4026:
4016:
4004:. Retrieved
4000:
3991:
3979:. Retrieved
3974:
3965:
3953:. Retrieved
3949:the original
3939:
3927:. Retrieved
3923:
3913:
3901:. Retrieved
3897:
3888:
3876:. Retrieved
3872:the original
3867:
3857:
3834:
3824:
3805:
3799:
3787:. Retrieved
3783:
3774:
3762:. Retrieved
3758:
3749:
3737:. Retrieved
3732:
3722:
3710:. Retrieved
3703:
3694:
3682:. Retrieved
3677:
3667:
3650:
3646:
3636:
3581:
3575:
3566:
3554:. Retrieved
3550:the original
3545:
3521:
3496:
3492:
3482:
3463:
3457:
3438:
3404:
3400:
3390:
3383:Google Books
3373:
3359:
3347:. Retrieved
3342:
3335:Martin, Andy
3329:
3317:. Retrieved
3313:the original
3306:
3296:
3253:
3222:. Retrieved
3207:
3200:
3180:
3173:
3165:
3161:
3153:
3148:
3128:
3121:
3111:
3101:
3079:Los Mochicas
3078:
3072:
3060:. Retrieved
3056:Surfer Today
3055:
3046:
3026:
3019:
3007:. Retrieved
2997:
2985:. Retrieved
2975:
2963:. Retrieved
2949:
2937:. Retrieved
2926:
2916:
2904:. Retrieved
2897:
2822:Surfer's ear
2774:Sandboarding
2734:Lake surfing
2711:
2675:
2664:
2661:
2657:Dale Webster
2633:
2622:
2612:(1964), and
2599:
2575:recreational
2568:
2554:Surf culture
2527:
2499:
2490:
2482:surfer's ear
2479:
2455:
2446:
2425:
2415:Rip currents
2413:
2402:Rip currents
2365:
2355:
2353:
2345:
2338:
2306:water sports
2303:
2289:
2285:
2277:
2268:
2264:
2259:Rip currents
2257:
2248:Rip currents
2243:
2240:Type 4 jetty
2235:
2232:Type 3 jetty
2226:
2222:
2219:
2216:Type 2 jetty
2210:
2207:Type 1 jetty
2198:
2185:
2175:
2171:
2147:
2138:
2130:
2103:
2090:
2077:
2068:
2058:Shark Island
2028:Bingin Beach
1960:Intermediate
1906:
1902:
1898:
1894:
1885:
1881:
1868:
1864:
1853:
1844:
1831:
1763:
1756:swallow tail
1755:
1751:
1747:
1745:
1733:
1721:
1713:
1707:
1675:snowboarding
1670:
1662:
1658:
1648:
1643:carbon fiber
1624:
1577:
1544:
1540:
1522:
1518:
1514:
1511:
1507:
1498:
1452:
1405:
1401:
1397:
1394:
1391:
1388:
1385:
1382:
1379:
1372:
1364:
1359:
1355:
1351:
1347:
1344:
1340:
1270:
1251:
1234:another reef
1218:Chevron Reef
1215:
1203:
1190:
1171:
1151:Jeffreys Bay
1142:Lagundri Bay
1111:Shark Island
1063:
976:
918:
913:
909:
908:
902:Round: 1â2:1
890:
858:
847:
836:
828:
812:polar fronts
809:
798:
795:
787:
773:
714:
694:
688:
653:
597:
583:
579:
575:
569:
558:
552:
538:
529:Joseph Banks
523:
511:
473:
454:
452:
446:
418:
412:
406:
356:
306:
282:kite surfing
278:sea kayaking
259:
244:
224:Body surfing
217:
192:
190:
149:
148:
50:
8043:Boardsports
7954:Boat racing
7885:Team sports
7870:Windsurfing
7853:Wakesurfing
7848:Wakeskating
7793:Parasailing
7771:Kiteboating
7741:Bodysurfing
7674:Aquajogging
7199:Slacklining
6981:Parasailing
6969:Paragliding
6928:Tombstoning
6774:Cave diving
6759:High diving
6749:Coasteering
6698:Motorsports
6688:Windsurfing
6661:Snowskating
6606:Dirtsurfing
6588:Boardsports
6357:Flying disc
6352:Finswimming
6340:Parachuting
6221:Racquetball
6178:Ball sports
5669:La Libertad
5598:New Zealand
5518:Boardshorts
5445:Environment
5416:New Zealand
5345:Windsurfing
5340:Tube riding
5254:Terminology
5174:11 December
5043:6 September
4988:10871/32078
4963:: 326â333.
4432:26 November
4139:29 December
4090:13 November
4057:29 November
4052:www.ombe.co
4032:29 November
4006:29 November
4001:www.ombe.co
3929:29 November
3903:29 November
3878:20 November
3789:29 November
3784:www.ombe.co
3764:11 December
3556:11 December
3181:Roughing It
3062:4 September
2702:Dog surfing
2606:Beach Party
2591:boardshorts
2524:Spinal cord
2387:Weever fish
2373:) and even
2362:Marine life
2254:Rip current
2144:Ledge break
2100:Beach break
2074:Surf breaks
2012:Top Amateur
2002:Kirra Point
1976:Bells Beach
1917:Skill level
1855:Ocean waves
1832:North Beach
1683:rash guards
1679:boardshorts
1635:epoxy resin
1564:a surfboard
1519:eskimo roll
1515:duck diving
1374:Hanging ten
1368:North Shore
1356:off the lip
1303:North Shore
1230:marine life
1155:Bells Beach
1071:Medium: 45°
914:peeling off
754:North Shore
717:Margo Oberg
604:Ivory Coast
594:West Africa
491:Polynesians
437:surfing in
309:North Shore
294:Wakesurfing
286:windsurfing
8017:Categories
7933:Water polo
7893:Canoe polo
7696:Snorkeling
7517:Volleyball
7425:Gymnastics
7383:Equestrian
7356:BMX racing
7317:Basketball
7295:Water polo
7209:Zip-lining
7090:Freeriding
7012:BMX racing
6954:Air racing
6949:Aerobatics
6880:Skyrunning
6786:Snorkeling
6764:Jet Skiing
6754:Freediving
6726:Rally raid
6716:Rallycross
6651:Skysurfing
6362:Lifesaving
6335:Air sports
6319:Tug of war
6257:Kickboxing
6190:Canoe polo
6137:Gymnastics
6132:Dancesport
6022:Shaka sign
5761:J-Bay Open
5540:By country
5472:Tidal bore
5467:Surf break
5426:Portuguese
5381:Australian
5290:Flowriding
5202:Surf Total
5089:. ABC News
5021:15 January
5016:Eurekalert
4743:. Surfline
4724:8 November
4700:8 November
4159:|ref=
4112:3 February
3623:(Report).
3349:2 December
3308:Good Times
3224:8 November
2877:References
2812:Surf music
2784:Surf break
2764:Ocean wave
2618:Beach Boys
2583:California
2564:Shaka sign
2506:rash guard
2465:Ear damage
2375:fatalities
2324:Collisions
2135:Reef break
2080:surf break
1718:shortboard
1710:longboards
1703:surfboards
1667:Sportswear
1663:glassed-on
1627:fiberglass
1620:balsa wood
1616:Surfboards
1604:kneeboards
1600:skimboards
1592:bodyboards
1584:longboards
1580:surfboards
1502:longboards
1459:vocabulary
1415:alley-oop.
1254:wave pools
1060:peel angle
871:websites.
861:model data
850:tradewinds
822:cause the
727:See also:
723:Surf waves
639:California
620:Gold Coast
565:Mark Twain
548:James Cook
544:James King
449:, writing:
341:California
321:Waimea Bay
186:wave pools
182:tidal bore
7969:Triathlon
7609:See also:
7534:Wrestling
7512:Triathlon
7502:Taekwondo
7312:Badminton
7307:Athletics
7123:Bobsleigh
6901:Free BASE
6824:Canyoning
6711:Motocross
6472:Triathlon
6467:Taekwondo
6417:Badminton
6200:Floorball
5856:The Eddie
5846:Surfabout
5689:Teahupoʻo
5674:Mavericks
5613:Sri Lanka
5578:Indonesia
5548:Australia
5532:Locations
5513:Foilboard
5493:Surfboard
5486:Equipment
5477:Wave pool
5436:Uruguayan
5411:Maldivian
5386:Brazilian
5376:Argentine
5137:26 August
4910:26 August
4670:1 January
4621:CiteSeerX
4366:0378-3839
4299:145159559
4149:cite news
3955:26 August
3924:BeachGrit
3513:0030-8684
3421:0162-2897
3343:The Times
3288:202315785
3280:994296486
2817:Surf zone
2789:Surf film
2625:Australia
2496:Surf rash
2475:ear plugs
2395:jellyfish
2383:stingrays
2341:sand bars
2280:surfboard
2278:A longer
1986:Competent
1980:Australia
1736:funboards
1671:boardwear
1608:surf mats
1596:wave skis
1553:Equipment
1535:surfskate
1276:Maneuvers
1146:Superbank
1101:The Cobra
1074:Slow: 60°
1068:Fast: 30°
1045:α
959:α
863:from the
769:Mavericks
666:. There,
660:San Mateo
539:Endeavour
537:HMS
522:HMS
514:Polynesia
462:Polynesia
425:used the
337:Mavericks
329:Teahupo'o
240:hydrofoil
236:submerged
232:handboard
228:handboard
213:surfboard
191:The term
130:Worldwide
108:Surfboard
104:Equipment
95:Mixed-sex
7992:Category
7875:Yachting
7863:barefoot
7823:Skurfing
7761:Kayaking
7751:Canoeing
7701:Swimming
7591:Lacrosse
7571:Softball
7567:Baseball
7562:Breaking
7477:Shooting
7447:Handball
7415:Football
7393:Eventing
7388:Dressage
7334:Canoeing
7290:Swimming
7275:Artistic
7270:Aquatics
7138:Skeleton
7115:Sledding
7029:Downhill
6816:Climbing
6731:Snocross
6721:Rallying
6706:Drifting
6504:Lacrosse
6494:Duathlon
6422:Baseball
6262:Muaythai
6247:Ju-jitsu
6226:Softball
6215:Lacrosse
6210:Korfball
6195:Fistball
6167:Tumbling
5939:Surfline
5841:Stubbies
5796:Olympics
5633:Scotland
5508:Wax comb
5452:Closeout
5421:Peruvian
5396:Filipino
5371:American
5275:Big wave
4997:29343413
4930:BBC News
4904:ABC News
4694:Archived
4084:Archived
3839:165â0170
3733:Surfline
3625:Archived
3345:. London
3109:(1590).
3081:. Lima:
2959:Archived
2933:Archived
2906:22 March
2680:See also
2608:(1963),
2595:wetsuits
2510:abrasion
2367:Sea life
2334:closeout
2318:Mark Foo
2310:drowning
2300:Drowning
2093:headland
1937:Beginner
1872:ellipses
1722:thruster
1691:titanium
1687:wetsuits
1655:surf wax
1466:Learning
1258:simulate
1125:Gnaraloo
1121:Speedies
1106:Teahupoo
885:geometry
791:"barrel"
633:Cameroon
616:Cameroon
580:se'egalu
576:fa'ase'e
501:and the
347:Island,
325:Pipeline
302:Portugal
184:, or in
122:Presence
71:Highest
8023:Surfing
8002:Commons
7833:Surfing
7813:Sailing
7798:Rafting
7786:standup
7756:Fishing
7731:Boating
7576:Cricket
7492:Surfing
7472:Sailing
7405:Fencing
7351:Cycling
7302:Archery
7040:Rolling
7000:Cycling
6959:Gliding
6889:Falling
6671:Surfing
6479:(women)
6447:Netball
6437:Casting
6298:Bowling
6283:Archery
6217:(women)
6152:Parkour
6032:Hazards
5984:Culture
5851:Surfest
5694:Uluwatu
5660:Cyclops
5593:Morocco
5588:Madeira
5583:Ireland
5568:Ecuador
5391:British
5364:Surfers
5259:History
5243:Surfing
4965:Bibcode
4747:12 July
4613:Bibcode
4561:Bibcode
4396:Bibcode
4346:Bibcode
3385:pg. 255
3319:1 April
3009:27 July
2987:21 July
2965:27 July
2939:14 July
2807:nippers
2671:Snurfer
2571:culture
2538:pilates
2514:sunburn
2457:E. coli
2356:wipeout
2314:buoyant
2295:Dangers
2200:Jetties
1714:walking
1352:floater
1348:carving
1266:Bristol
1226:Kovalam
1138:Almond
1097:Square
977:Where:
824:isobars
816:Equator
752:on the
612:Senegal
608:Liberia
586:), and
524:Dolphin
419:mochica
345:Tavarua
292:boats,
290:V-drive
193:surfing
150:Surfing
136:Olympic
116:wetsuit
80:(WSL),
54:Surfing
7923:Waboba
7838:Tubing
7808:Rowing
7679:Diving
7596:Squash
7586:Karate
7507:Tennis
7462:Rowing
7329:Boxing
7280:Diving
7159:Caving
7147:Others
7078:Skiing
6942:Flying
6252:Karate
6231:Squash
5623:Turkey
5618:Taiwan
5558:Canada
5553:Brazil
5401:French
5335:Tow-in
4995:
4936:24 May
4799:. 2011
4623:
4522:
4470:: 1â8.
4364:
4297:
4217:
4185:
4027:Surfer
3981:8 July
3845:
3812:
3739:25 May
3712:25 May
3684:25 May
3678:ZigZag
3588:
3511:
3470:
3445:
3419:
3286:
3278:
3268:
3215:
3188:
3136:
3089:
3034:
2602:Gidget
2587:woodie
2579:Hawaii
2428:seabed
2422:Seabed
2379:sharks
2041:>27
1859:eddies
1805:Giant
1726:shaper
1562:Waxing
1523:turtle
1311:Hawaii
1211:Seli 1
1117:Round
1089:Medium
893:vortex
750:Sunset
624:Elmina
507:boards
499:Tahiti
480:Hawaii
439:Callao
431:totora
333:Tahiti
323:, and
317:Hawaii
298:Nazaré
178:rivers
140:Since
6515:Wushu
6506:(men)
6462:Sambo
6382:Track
6012:Music
6002:Films
5649:Sites
5573:India
5563:Chile
5406:Irish
5268:Types
4642:(PDF)
4601:(PDF)
4580:(PDF)
4549:(PDF)
4295:S2CID
3628:(PDF)
3621:(PDF)
3284:S2CID
2500:Surf
2391:seals
1998:40-60
1989:40-50
1940:60-70
1659:skegs
1651:leash
1449:Terms
1411:left.
1092:Slow
831:highs
779:fetch
775:Swell
629:Accra
600:Ghana
588:Tonga
572:Samoa
560:Mardi
497:from
209:alaia
197:Moche
176:, in
174:lakes
166:ocean
152:is a
112:leash
84:(ISA)
7614:and
7452:Judo
7420:Golf
7133:Luge
6377:Road
6267:Sumo
6007:Hair
5664:Jaws
5603:Peru
5498:Fins
5176:2017
5139:2015
5117:2024
5095:2024
5045:2020
5023:2018
4993:PMID
4938:2010
4912:2015
4868:2010
4846:2012
4805:2012
4779:2012
4749:2012
4726:2014
4702:2014
4672:2018
4520:ISBN
4482:link
4434:2017
4362:ISSN
4320:2024
4215:ISBN
4183:ISBN
4164:help
4141:2014
4114:2020
4092:2018
4059:2023
4034:2023
4008:2023
3983:2021
3957:2015
3931:2023
3905:2023
3880:2017
3843:ISBN
3810:ISBN
3791:2023
3766:2017
3741:2012
3714:2012
3686:2012
3586:ISBN
3558:2017
3509:ISSN
3468:ISBN
3443:ISBN
3417:ISSN
3351:2020
3321:2020
3276:OCLC
3266:ISBN
3226:2014
3213:ISBN
3186:ISBN
3134:ISBN
3087:ISBN
3064:2020
3032:ISBN
3011:2021
2989:2021
2967:2021
2941:2021
2908:2023
2805:and
2581:and
2562:The
2534:yoga
2502:rash
2437:reef
2426:The
2393:and
1876:drag
1826:The
1760:fins
1752:Fish
1637:and
1610:and
1453:The
1360:air,
1307:Oahu
1086:Fast
910:Peel
883:The
865:NOAA
758:Oahu
674:and
435:Inca
415:Peru
398:Peru
349:Fiji
313:Oahu
284:and
276:and
253:and
201:Peru
142:2020
7322:3x3
7007:BMX
5992:Art
5503:Wax
4983:hdl
4973:doi
4961:114
4631:doi
4569:doi
4557:100
4512:doi
4404:doi
4354:doi
4285:doi
3655:doi
3651:138
3501:doi
3409:doi
3258:doi
2928:CNN
2542:DPT
2512:or
1966:2.5
1943:2.5
1809:in
1788:in
1764:Gun
1748:Egg
1305:of
912:or
756:of
658:in
578:or
553:In
535:on
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311:of
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